Motor Generators

[Turion]

Setup for testing how magnets affect both the motor coil and the power coil and setup for testing coil output with rotors on both ends of the coil.
Extra motors for testing with various setups. This does not include probably 10 MY1016 motors I have but am no longer using.

A lot of time and money has gone into all this stuff. I'm not just doing it for fun.

[Turion]

Extra rotors stuck to my door.
My Old machine, which I JUST got back together to do some testing with the 12 magnet rotor (3/4 x 3/4 magnets)
My new machine
My test setup for small rotors using a grinder motor
The previous rotor from my Black machine
Lots of test coils with different cores and different wiring configurations. This doesn't count the coils that are in the OLD mach one or the NEW one.

[Rakarskiy]

An interesting experiment was carried out with a set of a single-phase generator with electromagnetic excitation ROTOR + STATOR:

https://rakatskiy.blogspot.com/2022/06/static-electromagnetic-transducer.html

[BroMikey]

motor generator recycler

[BroMikey]

Fun with my lenz free generator, burning neon's with a high voltage coil and 20 puny 9 pound magnets w/shields

[Turion]

Yeah, 60 at 1" x 1". FIVE times as many as I have on my rotor, and not much output. A waste.

[BroMikey]

Well that makes sense the guy only got 10 watts with 60 magnets and all that copper

[Turion]

Here’s something to add to your data bank. That wasn’t metal around those magnets in that picture. It WAS glue

Also, here are two pictures of the previous rotor I took OUT of the machine. It had 24 of the 3/4” diameter magnets interacting with the coils and about the same spacing between the magnets as the current rotor that is IN the machine. Only the NEW rotor has 20 of the 1” diameter magnets instead of 24 of the 3/4” diameter.

The coil output using that previous rotor was 96 volts. Using the new one it is 16 volts. I’m not sure there is enough difference between the two rotors to account for THAT much difference. I will definitely be trying a rotor with 10 magnets in it if nothing else solves the problem. Haven’t gotten to that point yet.

Bench work is so much fun. Plus I get to play with magnets again! My finger has barely healed over from LAST time!

[BroMikey]

[BroMikey]

Something like this would push those magnets right out. Made out of wood is better. BTW I was thinking wrong that a stainless rotor might shield some, so my indecision about the need for shielding has been removed.

[BroMikey]

Taking out those magnets should be easy, almost to easy. The sleeves will keep them in best. if you ever get it done right your output is going to be massive. Send it back to have the holes shaved to match the new dia. plenty of room for a 20 thou wrap around

You don't have to do the outside magnets just yet but providing a shield would probably reduce the sized needed. You are losing flux everywhere. The shields divert the flux out to front and center so double the flux in front. The old 2" were short but the 1" have a huge potential for magnifying flux thru the redirection of shielding. The distance is 4x as great going from .25-1.00. With double the pull I hope the rotor doesn't flex to badly being so limber

Be sure the covers are as close to 1" long as possible. Texture for gluing is important, don't let them polish the surfaces. Or be sure to sand all surfaces roughly making it more porous. You don't need me to tell you that. You are almost home.

[BroMikey]

Thin sheet metal cans or cylinders.

Shim Stock cylinders

https://www.metalshims.com/c-29-custom-shim-stock.aspx

https://www.first4magnets.com/blog/w...ding-a-magnet/

Which material will work?

Any ferromagnetic metal. That is any metal containing iron, nickel or cobalt. Many steels are ferromagnetic metals and will work for redirecting magnetic shields.

Steel is the commonly used metal because it is cost-effective and widely available, however some stainless steels are not ferromagnetic.

Overall, many applications we come across and are asked about, a steel sheet-metal shield is usually the best solution.

[BroMikey]

[QUOTE=Turion;n510390]Glue


FALSE , they are thin tin simple cups that when driven in with a rubber mallet sometimes can become misshapen. I think he drove in one half on each side. See close up and see the shine. That is one pretty glue job

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U3JhNA_0FKI&t=70s

[Turion]

Glue

[BroMikey]

Stainless Steel


No. It varies depending on the exact stainless steel. We only covered a few in this article. We found:

• 430 Ferritic Stainless Steel – Magnetic
• 304 Austenitic Stainless Steel – Not magnetic, or a little magnetic after cold work (bending, deforming, etc.)
• 316 Austenitic Stainless Steel – Not magnetic.

How do I know if my stainless steel is magnetic?



Will stainless steel act as a magnetic shield?


Magnetic “shields” don’t block magnetic fields, they redirect it. See our earlier article on Shielding Materials.

All metals that act as good shields are also attractive to magnets. If you’re using a stainless steel like 316 that isn’t ferromagnetic, it’s not blocking any fields, at least not any more than an air gap.

What material will work?


The short answer is: Any ferromagnetic metal. That is, anything containing iron, nickel or cobalt. Most steels are ferromagnetic metals, and work well for a redirecting shield. Steel is commonly used because it's inexpensive and widely available. Note that some stainless steels, especially the 300 series varieties, are not ferromagnetic.


Conclusion


Which material is right for you depends on your specific shielding problem. For low field strength, sensitive electronics, MuMetal can provide better shielding than steel. For many applications involving large, powerful neodymium magnets, the higher saturation point of steel serves better. In many specific cases we're asked about, a steel sheet-metal shield is often the best solution.