Motor Generators

[bistander]

Memphis,
In the video I sent you they are rotating the magnets but not the copper disk. The slots are cut into the copper disk in a specific pattern to reduce, as much as possible, the currents that cause the braking action you are experiencing. I believe you are rotating both the copper disk as well as the magnets, so I don't know if this will be of help, but I thought you might be interested in it.

The slots which they cut in the copper disc fashion a circuit that mimics single turn coils at one per pole pair. Then rotating the field magnets generates an AC voltage in the series connected armature coil set. The braking action, torque, depends on the load connected to the end points of that armature circuit.
bi

[Memphis]

Thanks Turion, but I don't understand why De Palma can be seen in the videos that in his homopolar generator he rotates both the copper disk and the magnets ?

[BroMikey]

listen to min 43 he says rotating disc and stationary magnets very clearly, there is more here than most people see

[Memphis]

thank you BroMike, I will try to make it with the modifications, leaving the magnets still, but I was wondering if it was a good project to find a self-sufficient energy source for the house or if it is better to follow your project regarding Thane. The weak point of the homopolar generator project is the current draw, the brushes do not give a guarantee of long life. What do you think about ?

[BroMikey]

thank you BroMike, I will try to make it with the modifications, leaving the magnets still, but I was wondering if it was a good project to find a self-sufficient energy source for the house or if it is better to follow your project regarding Thane. The weak point of the homopolar generator project is the current draw, the brushes do not give a guarantee of long life. What do you think about ?

The way I see it is you need to run a larger machine at 10,000 rpm's and follow the diagram in the video of the master machinist.
Study the gyroscopic effects. Use very high quality materials so you can get to a realizable 12v or whatever might be possible with these machines. Run the tests down low or at slow speeds and move faster over time with better machining. Start at 5000 rpm and move to 7500 rpm to see if you can get voltage.

Once you get power you will need to refine until you can get more out than you are putting into the drive motor as is the case with all motor generators. I have never made the attempt with this one. As far as powering the house, I would say look on youtube to fine 3 or 4 people getting the results and watch them power small devices and maybe you can gain a perspective.

According to min 43 of the video you have 2 ends of the "N" machine, one end has both copper disc and magnets rotating together while the other end of the same shaft has stationary magnets and a rotating disc. see the diagram in min 43

[BroMikey]

BTW guys this is Jordan's lenz free generator running at 1600 rpm, you will see the effects at 50 strands of 73ft each and at the 25 terminal with a bigger load

total starting/baseline drive power = 22v X 520ma

Drive power dropping 5ma X 22v = 1.1w
generated power .8w was 45v x 18ma

[BroMikey]

King of lenz free generating back in 2008

[BroMikey]

You can learn much by watching old video's with 24 magnet rotor and fat coils as compared to the video's with smaller coils used today. The best thing about this old one here was running slower speeds of 1800 rpm's and shorted coils shifting the delayed current 80 degrees

The old tests show lots of speed up and the new ones make big power. According to Thanes ohm rating for the new C cores at point 3 ohms I get a 12awg wire 3 sections or strands at 125 feet each which seems incredibly short to me.

In other words to come up with any coil close to that ohm rating. This means at 3600 rpm's using a 24 magnet rotor Thane can reach the null producing 80v @5amps using only 375ft of wire for his 2020 ebike coils.

Also you can see how well constructed his rotors are

[pmgriphone]

King of lenz free generating back in 2008

180W in, about 10-20W out? COP=10%

[BroMikey]

180W in, about 10-20W out? COP=10%

yes but you missed the experimental test. Try looking at the trees or would you prefer the forest?
At any rate ding-bat the same setup with a normal lenz sucking coil be 200w in and 15watts out. 7% COP Ever declining conventional numbers you turn a blind eye to, in your ignorance is bliss delusion.

Why do these conventional coil COP's escape your attention? Do you attention deficit?

The way you could better look at this is by using a 2.5 hp Briggs engine as a yard unit has to drive a generator head. A well designed generator head produces 2000 watts sold on the market today.

The same engine could pull 7500watt gen-heat of the new coil type. Because you do not see that the new coils assist the gas engine the trees block your view of the forest. That is how bias your thinking processes have become.

Prejudice is against the experiment and unable to see beyond it's own insanity.

[Turion]

Well, I said I should have the generator back together in the next couple days barring anything unforeseen, but as usual, something happened. The machine shop torqued the He%! out of the bolts that hold the sections together. There are four bolts on each section, and two sections. So eight bolts. Luckily, they only put TWO on each section to hold it together temporarily because it took me all of yesterday and most of today to get two steps accomplished. With the changes, most of the bolt holes on the mounts didn't align properly. They had to be filed out in the frame so the modified machine could be bolted into place. Couldn't drill them out because they had to go about 1/4" sideways, and that would have meant a HIUGE hole in the frame. So had to file all eight mounting bolt holes by hand.

Then I had to take out those four section mounting bolts. THAT was a nightmare. I twisted two different Allen wrenches into candy canes, and broke the end of one of them. A couple of the bolts I was able to get out far enough to cut the heads off. One bolt just snapped. Another one I destroyed the threads getting the nut off. Now I have to replace the bolts and I am trying to find some. NO LUCK. I need socket head Allen cap screws 4 1/2 x 1/4-20. Nobody in my town has them, including Fastenal, so ordered them. Paid extra for shipping by air and they will be here Monday. Almost $60 for 8 bolts. I'm going to have a word with the machinist! You can see the Allen wrench at the top, and how it was twisted. And what was left of the four bolts. That was my day. Can't put the machine back together until I get these 8 bolts in.

Machinist's present.jpeg

[BroMikey]

I don't use 304 ss bolts or grade 5 bolts because they turn to butter even fine threads. I use grade 8 bolts or 316 L. Then I feel all warm and fuzzy. Live and learn. The machinist showed you a good lesson. He was right to crank the Sh%! out of those junkers Those are phony high grade bolts. A real grade 8 bolt will never chew up and look shiny only on buggered threads. And the nuts are cheesy too. They suck but you already know that now. It is fine to use an Allen to hold the bolt from slipping while the nut is being turned down in the tightening process, not the other way around

Bevel head bolts are shallow wells and those are more for cosmetic wood working. Your allens are not high grade because they snap and never twist.

[Turion]

The Allen twisted AND finally snapped. That twisted metal in the top right corner of the photo is the Allen and next to it is the little piece that broke off. I was using the Allen just to hold the bolt head. I had a socket wrench on the nut. The Allen still twisted and broke. Lot of torque there. That’s why one bolt BROKE. I was using 1/2” drive with a 16” ratchet bar

[BroMikey]

THOSE zhittY bolts once you get them cross threaded mush won't turn off or back on. I hate those suckers. As crazy as it may seem you will now need a pipe wrench to break them off. A grade 8 bolt plz is what I always say. Good to know that you did everything right otherwise. I have some ss 1/4-20 allen heads that cost a fortune but they are worth every penny. I just wish I could find a fine thread without paying twice.

Black grade 8 can be had at Tractor supply but I don't promise 4.5" long. Take your time,
that bitzh needs to be tightened down till it squeals. A grade 8 bolt will let you torque to 80 pounds but you shouldn't go that high

[Turion]

I don't need to torque it down at all. I just have the four bolts there to hold the two pieces of plastic in place and "clamp" the bearing in place so it won't spin. Which is why whatever they did was way overkill. But I got the four bolts out, so I'm DONE with the hard part. Just need to find some NEW bolts to replace the ones that are damaged. They have been ordered already, and will be here first part of the week, when I can resume putting this thing back together.

Until then I am going to work on my light board, making sure the switches, amp meters and volt meters are hooked up correctly and functioning. I can use house supply to simulate a coil output and test everything so no time is wasted once I have everything I need to reassemble. I'm looking for a step down transformer from 120 volts AC to 36 volts AC that will handle 10 amps. That should allow me to step down the coil output, and then I can rectify it and run it to a DC to DC converter to set the output voltage to the motor. With that setup, maybe I can loop the system, That's the goal anyway.

Or maybe something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...AE9RJVUMB&th=1
But it probably won't like the frequency the coils output at, so maybe a really bad idea, as in $40 down the drain first time I run it.