Motor Generators

[BroMikey]

The arbor sleeve that screws on must also have a recessed locking pin as well as the pulley. Loctite will not hold long.

[BroMikey]

Look like you are SOL, the 1 handed man This is a complicated box, don't do anything rash. Those cores need a machinist to make it flush all of the way across. In other words a very sharp tool not a dull grinder. Get them all Machined. Remember you had the box re-done and that could have changed things. I saw the ends of the cores and they look rounded

[Turion]

That last motor looks good! Looks like shaft is long enough to actually USE it for something.

I put two coils in the machine and started it up. Very unpleasant grinding sound. Apparently the cores are sticking out far enough to rub on the rotor magnets. Some grinding needs to be done and I can't hold the coils with one hand to do it. Going to have to build some kind of jig to hold coils. Plus, core is made out of many tiny wires glued together with high temp epoxy. Grinding may do a number on them. Would be best to put a sleeve of pipe the right length on the end of the core, and grind off anything that sticks out past it. That would hold the wires in place and keep them from getting ruined. Got a call in to see what we can do. Maybe spacers/shims a few 1,000ths thick with a 3/4 diameter hole is the way to go. Slip a few on the end of the core before I put it in and rotate rotor by hand to see if problem is solved. Epoxy each one so magnet doesn't remove it if they are magnetic.

I did a whole video on how I filed each core to make sure it fit in the hole (diameter) but didn't think to check for length. I didn't make the coils. I just wound them. My partners made them. Core was supposed to stick out of coil 1/4". I KNOW they used a 1/4" spacer!!!!

[BroMikey]

Pulling 70 volts on the Variac and it is only rated for 5 amps I believe. Will have to look at that. So 2800 RPM is easily achievable with this setup. Next step is to test two coils. Will do that this afternoon. Gonna rest my hand for a bit. It is not happy about being put back to work. It is broken but almost perfectly aligned, so no surgery. Besides, it’s close to lunch time. Any excuse not to work.

Go in Tuesday to have a long term splint made. For now my hand is just wrapped and I can’t use it without regretting it.

if two coils without magnetic adjustment do not draw too many amps from the Variac, I can at least get the required RPM figured out and two coil output to load data today.

https://youtu.be/jkPACdHWg8k

I have nightmares about that motor you show. I had the shaft on one of my MY1020 motors just break off. If I switch this back to direct drive ( the eventual plan) I will keep that motor in mind.

Darn it I didn't know that, sorry, let me give it some thought. There is another version same size pmm with a regular shaft goes to 100vdc. I find it again, brb on that one

Anyway you need to rest and the crew needs to pick up the $%@^& slack, next weekend? Tuesday is along way to get a doctor. I have to wait till mar 8th and it hurts.

Thanks to your team you are getting some progress, great guys, buy pizza and brewski's

edit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/30339971352...4AAOSwPsJXP2fh

edit: All shaft coupler must have a retaining pin https://teamknkhardware.com/replacement-parts-hop-ups/1392-enduro-pivot-balls.html

https://teamknkhardware.com/replacement-parts-hop-ups/1392-enduro-pivot-balls.html

[Turion]

Pulling 70 volts on the Variac and it is only rated for 5 amps I believe. Will have to look at that. So 2800 RPM is easily achievable with this setup. Next step is to test two coils. Will do that this afternoon. Gonna rest my hand for a bit. It is not happy about being put back to work. It is broken but almost perfectly aligned, so no surgery. Besides, it’s close to lunch time. Any excuse not to work.

Go in Tuesday to have a long term splint made. For now my hand is just wrapped and I can’t use it without regretting it.

if two coils without magnetic adjustment do not draw too many amps from the Variac, I can at least get the required RPM figured out and two coil output to load data today.

https://youtu.be/jkPACdHWg8k

I have nightmares about that motor you show. I had the shaft on one of my MY1020 motors just break off. Fortunately, at the time, I was using it to direct drive the generator. With the belt and pulley arrangement I have now, if that happened I can just imagine things flying around. With the sleeve I had made and a pulley, there is even more stress on the shaft. Unless you are going to use it as a direct drive motor, I wouldn’t recommend it. And even then I would be extremely cautious.

At the time the shaft broke I did NOT have magnetic neutralization figured out yet, so there was a lot more torque on the shaft to turn the rotor. If I switch this back to direct drive ( the eventual plan) I will keep that motor in mind.

[BroMikey]

Calling all circuit wizards 35$ bucks pre-made hook it up, come on make sense. This one puts out 20a at 50vdc all day and takes in 110vdc. This is exactly what is needed for the motor upgrade. Clean and quick, do it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/36368519020...0AAOSws4Rh2~iM

WZ10020 1000W Step Down Module DC Buck Converter Output 0-100V MPPT Solar Panel Charging Power Supply

[BroMikey]

Probably a boost or buck converter is better and just as cheap.
These are great for a project. $20 bucks

https://www.ebay.com/itm/25528918305...IAAOSwiMVhwVWg

[BroMikey]

I know you are pinched for money and time but for the evolution of this design others maybe interested to see this new motor upgrade. This motor can do 20 amps for quite awhile at 48vdc. The reason it is best is that cheap boost (adjustable) are readily available to control it. If nobody wants to fund this project fine. Let Dave battle it out on his own. Same format Dave has bolts hole for. Plus he already has a number of machined fittings to sleeve the shaft he spent big money on.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/15173661962...8AAOSwTepfWD8S

[BroMikey]

Let's say that it takes 4 coils in parallel or in series and you hook straight to the motor and the motor wants to run at 3600 rpm's but with a 24 magnets speed up come at 2300 rpm's. What then is put light bulbs across the motor say 40w, 60w,, 75w and use bulbs to lower ther speed down to wherever you want it instead of fancy circuits. Bulbs love DC power and you can get a good reading of how much power is there.

Once you put out some data and the data doesn't change from day to day maybe someone will build a circuit for it that isn't a waste of time. You have 16 versions not able to sustain more than 30 minutes without a meltdown. Nobody will build anything for those

[BroMikey]

I already bought a heavy amp switch .... Let an EE work out the kinks.

I like my starting circuit better

[Turion]

I already bought a heavy amp switch designed to switch the machine between two DC power sources. Start it on the Variac with the bridge and switch over to coil production when it is running. It doesn’t have to work perfectly. It is just a prototype. Let an EE work out the kinks.

[BroMikey]

. What I will be interested to see is the voltage and amperage output of one coil pair

you may have to put a coil pair in parallel to get more than 1.5A. A coil set putting out 140vac for the in series connection would mean 70vac each. Rectified to 90vdc might be just about right. 4 coils in parallel?

Or maybe 90v X 3A = 270w is enough? Even if this process takes 4 coils to run this motor you will have 1000w left over to burn. But the 4 coils drive circuit will have 520 watts to run on would have 200w not being used. Starting the box cold turkey is another subject.

[Turion]

My Variac will output up to 120V AC, and with a bridge I can convert to DC. What I will be interested to see is the voltage and amperage output of one coil pair compared to what the motor requires to run at the required RPM for Lenz neutral. I don't know FOR SURE what that is yet. Tomorrow's another day.

[BroMikey]

Wasn't sure what it would take to run this new machine, but I figured less than 400 watts, and was pretty sure it would be less than 300.

Well motors want to free wheel at 20-30% of their full run load capacity and this should be 2000w X 20%=400watts but that is for the cap run induction motors. These motors are much less and a great choice. I assume it has brushes? The motors max efficiency is found when you run it at 3000 rpm or maybe more and maybe a little less. That makes this motor well suited in many ways. At 2800 rpm's you will probably be at 80vdc and don't be surprised if the amps drop and you have to go to 85vdc. I only wish you could a converter supply that runs 110vdc on the output. The one you have is nice. Maybe 350w with the tuning of antidrag magnets

[Turion]

Wasn't sure what it would take to run this new machine, but I figured less than 400 watts, and was pretty sure it would be less than 300. I have a couple days to play around before the guys come back on Monday. I should be able to get some serious testing done by then.

Next up is data on required RPM for neutral operation of a coil pair under load, and getting output of a single coil pair to the load at that frequency. That's where the rubber meets the road.

THEN implement magnetic neutralization as sets of coils are installed