Basic Free Energy Device

[Matthew Jones]

You believe what you want, Rick is Con Man and a thief, he has cost a lot of people in the past with his theological hypocrisy and so called circuits. If you are spending any amount of time try to look into what he has shown you are waisting your time and being primed for con that will most likely cost you money. He is liar and a cheat and everything he has ever shown or claimed was false except for the Bedini's stuff who he conveniently exploited for his gain.

That is all I have to say, leave me out of this conversation from here on out.

You will get black fluid from utilizing the ground side on ANY setup that utilizes a 3 battery type system. PERIOD. The lower the power the longer it takes.

Leave me alone.
Matt

[alman]

Look at any 3 battery switch. If the load is between the negatives your fluid goes black inside the battery.

Matt

Matt
do you see a potential problem with the attachment as related to the black fluid? Specifically the circuit on the right.

After playing with the 3bgs, splitting the positives, cascading the recovery, and theses ideas for a limited time; then seeing Rick F. with his "loving giving paths" etc. who recommended running a load between the positives- then between the negatives running a pulse motor (which acts as a current limiter for the load between the positives) so far I have not yet experienced the black fluid, and do not want to. Thank you in advance, Aln

[Matthew Jones]

Matt could you elaborate on this. "Running batteries from the negative". In my mind I think of running motors off of negatives, or charging with the negative. I may just be stupid too. aln

Look at any 3 battery switch. If the load is between the negatives your fluid goes black inside the battery.

Matt

[alman]

Running batteries from the negative end will cause black fluid. Black Fluid is the crystal formation from the ground side plates breaking down into the fluid...

Matt

Matt could you elaborate on this. "Running batteries from the negative". In my mind I think of running motors off of negatives, or charging with the negative. I may just be stupid too. aln

[voltan]

spot on Matt. i posted this (not my work), on another thread about july 2014 and as i recall you posted a caution about reduced battery life. it is a good looking scheme though. how did your tesla switch setup go while the batteries were good ?
cheers

[Matthew Jones]

i think from memory, Matt is or was not a fan of the re-emf setup. something about puting juice in the charge battery at the wrong end kills them quicker. hope i got that right. what are your current thoughts on that Matt.
cheers.

Running batteries from the negative end will cause black fluid. Black Fluid is the crystal formation from the ground side plates breaking down into the fluid.

I have 3, 5 gallon buckets of black fluid in my shop from running a Tesla switch on some batteries for 8 months. The batteries no longer work and have since been recycled.

If that what your talking about. I do not know what the re emf is...

Matt

[voltan]

if this early info is correct,what i like about it is B1's voltage holding up. also, any time B3's voltage is higher than B2's, i think it's fair to assume current should flow to balance them out. it raises some curious questions, like how does motor bemf affect battery current flow, and being fairly basic, hopefuly it's a good model to study and gain a better understanding of what's happening.
cheers

[blackchisel97]

I just had someone call me with some interesting results with a different way of connecting some things on the 3BGS. Here is how he had it connected.

-of bat one...batt one +... - bat 2...batt 2 +...motor...+ bat 3...batt 3 -.. connected to minus of batt one to make a loop.

Then connect a 2nd motor between the - of batt 3 and - of batt 2. Don't ask why. Just ry it. Loooooooooooong runs.

This is very interesting configuration or balancing act. I finally managed to get four brand new motors at very good price, including shipping from the US. The one I bought earlier (also from the US) cost me almost as much as I paid for them and it must sat submerged in water at some point. Even magnets no longer bonded with casing. Maybe salvageable but I'll use the new ones. Just need to get my hands on couple decent batteries as I recycled all, few years ago. It is good to see this thread still alive.


V

[voltan]

I wonder if coupling the motors, maybe 2:1 could take this further. this could be the basis for a breakthrough in electric cars,boats,planes,cordless lawnmowers, power tools,etc,etc.... very keen to see feedback and updates on this. hopefully it's good enough to overcome the old bugbear of reliability and repeatability issues and works for everybody every time.

[Turion]

That's what I thought, but he says that while battery 2 is going down slowly, he is getting REALLY long runs, and both motors are running at speed as if connected to 12 volts. That's always good. And voltan, your drawing is correct.

[voltan]

gotta admit that's a bit unorthodox.

[Turion]

interesting results

I just had someone call me with some interesting results with a different way of connecting some things on the 3BGS. Here is how he had it connected.

-of bat one...batt one +... - bat 2...batt 2 +...motor...+ bat 3...batt 3 -.. connected to minus of batt one to make a loop.

Then connect a 2nd motor between the - of batt 3 and - of batt 2. Don't ask why. Just ry it. Loooooooooooong runs.

[voltan]

i think from memory, Matt is or was not a fan of the re-emf setup. something about puting juice in the charge battery at the wrong end kills them quicker. hope i got that right. what are your current thoughts on that Matt.
cheers.

[Tishatang]

@Wistiti

Thanks for the charger circuit. I will see what I can put together.
Chris

[Wistiti]

Hi Dave
Thanks for posting videos by Rick Frederick. Encouraged me to try his methods. Actually my first goal is to try and de-sulphate old batteries. I only have one good 12v lawn tractor battery. I have several 25 Ah SLA I bought 14 years ago to make a portable PA system. All now really dead.

I managed to get one to charge up to 8 v. So I hooked it in series with my good battery to give me 20 v to charge two dead batts in parallel. My small motor hooked between the positives. I needed a resistor across the charge batts to get the motor to run. After about 2 hours, the motor ran without the resistor. It ran all day.

At the end of the day one of the charge batts got to 2v the other to only 0.2v. So, I put it on a trickle charge on the 2v to see if anything happens overnight. Actually, I put a trickle charge on the source batts 1 and 2 also. The reason for my post will explain.

As I monitored the system, I discovered that there is a pulsing DC voltage on each bat in the system that is slightly more than double the bat voltage? I don't recall reading about this when I was more active in the forum. Maybe it is because I am using highly sulphated batts? Even my good bat is 4 years old.

For example: Primary bat 12.2 v showing 28 v on AC scale with red lead on bat positive. If I reverse the leads, no AC reading. Primary bat number two 8v DC shows pos AC 20v and charge batts surface running charge 7 v shows pos AC 16v. Maybe the bemf of the motor is giving the high voltage pulses?

The second thing I noticed is that each bat in the system has its own unique frequency band. The freq seems related to the voltage in the bat, or the amount of sulphation? The good 12v bat centered around 200Hz, the 8v bat centered around 1.3Hz and the dead batts centered around 1.6Hz. Interesting as the 8v bat dropped to 7v and the surface charge of the charge batts approached 7v, their freqs started to match? Maybe this is caused by ringing of the plates or something?

I don't have a scope to show what's going on with the wave patterns. I double check with my analog meters against the digital. I built a Imhotep relay charger first to try and de-sulphate the batts. I thought something was wrong because my clamp meter was showing 600 milliamps of current. But, the relay seemed to work and it was lighting the neon lamp. I later noticed the meter was measuring 600 milliamps before I clamped it on the wire! It was responding to the radiant field. Even the volt readings varied up and down.

I hooked up my analog meter and it measured 30 mA as it should. But, I was only getting 8 mA into the charge batts. The 3batt system with my small motor is getting around 45 mA into the charge batts and my digital meters are fine with the energy.

Chris

Hi Tishatang!
Nice noticed...
You should try the re-emf charger for desulfating your batt... For me it is working better then the relay charger...

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/12514-re-emf-charger-joule-thief.html

Ciao!