Originally posted by quantumfanatic
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Basic Free Energy Device
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A troll?
Hmm. I replied before I saw this post. I was just curious how Zombie 222 was related to free energy. That's all.
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Hi Q,Originally posted by quantumfanatic View PostI thought it was because turion experimented with these type of motors in the past,do not know if he still does,but anyhow he liked what i posted....and said he will investigate...problem with that?
I see an issue or two with the video (like it isn't the White Zombie) and appears off-topic, but no problem and I'd like to see what he finds out. Zombie 222, the car in the video, uses two Warp11, series wound DC motors controlled by 2 Zilla 2k, 2000 (each) Ampere converters. I am pretty familiar with that type of equipment.
bi
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Turion's motors
another one just for you bistander
I do this simply because i believe that Turion(Dave) is an honest person,not here to deceive or misinform,(and believe me I follow ALL POSTS)and what i post has relevance because i can see(feel)continents away from you what is real, and what not,if you want to argue about every word or post,be my guest,I will not entertain you,find other persons to do it with.We are here to inform,to learn,not to bicker about trivial things like what is relevant or not,all things regarding energy is relevant<whether a motor or.or a joule ringer...whatever..
Just so bye the wayside,if you followed turions threads you will realize that he has real aptitude and understanding of electrical motors, and his search for absolute independence from the LORDs of this modern day society by applying it in such a manner that will suit the man on the street.
In my eyes a better person than me....so if I send him something ...please..do'nt question me..........
In my eyes you are just a TROLL
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Turions motors
Hello Bi
I thought it was because turion experimented with these type of motors in the past,do not know if he still does,but anyhow he liked what i posted....and said he will investigate...problem with that?
Peace and love
Quantum
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Follow up
Thanks for posting that. I followed up and contacted them. I am waiting for a response.
Dave
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Originally posted by Matthew Jones View PostIf you figure out what belt your going to use, like timing belt or v belt I can cut you the gears or pulleys. Plastic or wood if that works. It will save you some money.
I like these belts:
Miniature Timing Belts, Timing Belts and Cables for Power Transmission Applications -SDP/SI
Small flexible and low friction timing belts. I use them all the time. Gears can be made out of Cutting boards.
Don't be shy let me know.
Matt
Thanks Matt for the link and the offer, I appreciate it. As of right now I am going to see what I can dig up around here locally. If I need something I will talk to you about it in the future.
Dave Wing
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If you figure out what belt your going to use, like timing belt or v belt I can cut you the gears or pulleys. Plastic or wood if that works. It will save you some money.
I like these belts:
Miniature Timing Belts, Timing Belts and Cables for Power Transmission Applications -SDP/SI
Small flexible and low friction timing belts. I use them all the time. Gears can be made out of Cutting boards.
Don't be shy let me know.
Matt
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Here is a video that should help with how I am doing things and some of my thoughts about the way I look at these systems.
Sorry about the annoying pen tapping!!!
I start up the system by running the motor from the far right (3) first and work towards the left hand side motors (2 then3) and finally turning on the motors A-D to balance the load across the system and fine tune and balance the voltage on the motor with the pot to maintain 15 volts. When starting the system as described each motor will add acceleration to the coupled motor group.
Here is the video describing the set up and what it does... In the video when I say the motors are free running I mean running under no mechanical load.
Cascading Battery System - YouTube
I imagine there is probably many ways of getting where we want to be with these systems and this is what I am thinking of doing... Should be able to get most parts from the junk yard to save $$$.
Dave WingAttached FilesLast edited by jettis; 02-12-2016, 10:29 PM.
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Blocks on the top are positive.Originally posted by Turion View PostYour drawing doesn't show the positives and negatives on your batteries, so it is hard to tell their arrangement.
Dave B
Matt
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Battery configuration
Your drawing doesn't show the positives and negatives on your batteries, so it is hard to tell their arrangement. Because we simply do not yet understand setups like this, I imagine it is POSSIBLE that amps are being drawn from the 24 volt stack or the 12 volt. Without meters on these two groups or knowing which is the positive pole of the different battery arrangements, I am not sure what to think. Believe me, I am NOT disputing the fact that you can possibly get amps out of this without drawing from ANY of the battery groups. I have seen THAT too many times with my own eyes to believe you are mistaken. I am just trying to play the devil's advocate and look through the eyes of a skeptic who has never had this thing running on his bench, and doesn't understand that it can do things that we cannot explain....at least at times. I ALSO know that sometimes getting TWO exact setups to reproduce the same results can be problematic. One man's wonder becomes another man's frustration. Been there. Done that.
Dave B
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jettis circuit question
Hi Dave,Originally posted by jettis View PostWhen we look at motors A&B we find huge amounts of torque available for little current draw on the system (5 Amps draw)... How is this so? All current has to go through my amp meter on the 36 volt section yet the actual A&B load current is not registering on the meter. It should be noted that that meter can only handle about 10 Amps continuous before it blows the fuse within the meter itself. So why does the fuse not blow when I try and stall these motors with a paper wads between my fingers? Like I said I can stall those A&B motors when I conventionally hook them up across a normal 12 volt car battery and they are quite capable of drawing over 10 amps each when stalled by hand and will blow the internal 10 amp fuse in the meter. This is the point I wanted to make by posting what I showed in that schematic.
Dave Wing
Motor 1 can supply current to motor(s) A and/or B. It acts as a generator getting its power from the shaft coupled motor(s) 2 and/or 3. Current from motor (generator) 1 will not pass through your ammeter and fuse.
bi
Attached Files
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Thanks
Got it. I saw the writing,but missed the fact that you were indicating a meter connected there.
Dave
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The amp meter is connected as the first thing exiting the 36 volt battery... It is shown on the schematic.
Dave Wing
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