Basic Free Energy Device

[Matthew Jones]

One more.
[ATTACH]17821[/ATTACH]

I'm curious do you have the ability to check your rpms at some of the levels you listed? You might be able to look at the hertz on your scope divided by 4.

Cheers
Matt

[desa]

One more.
image.jpg

[Matthew Jones]

Hi Matt.
I like Litz wire a lot. I used 6 strands of #30 conected parallel as a twisted bundle. It is my #4 re wind. I managed to wind 80 feet of it. Considering I am only concentrating at the motor for now the latest results are realy nice. the motor runs from 2.2V up to 24v and stays cool like cucumber. At 1.3A on 12.4V tork burns fingers. If you look at the motor original markers as where normal brushes timing where. You can are see that I advanced timing frorward. I grinded the notch and rotated plate with brushes. This decreased amps from 1.7 to 1.3A and increased tork nicely. Any hint of heat was eliminated and as it is now clamped it runs stone cold. You could see on the Skope spikes are most visible on 2.1v run.
Thank you for a wonderfull ride and as my batteries arrive hope more to come. I also must thank Bro Mike for sending me your way.
David.

[ATTACH]17819[/ATTACH]

Thats wonderful. I appreciate the info. I am happy someone finally got a clean build out of it and was able to report the details.

Cheers
Matt

[desa]

Hi Matt.
I like Litz wire a lot. I used 6 strands of #30 conected parallel as a twisted bundle. It is my #4 re wind. I managed to wind 80 feet of it. Considering I am only concentrating at the motor for now the latest results are realy nice. the motor runs from 2.2V up to 24v and stays cool like cucumber. At 1.3A on 12.4V tork burns fingers. If you look at the motor original markers as where normal brushes timing where. You can are see that I advanced timing frorward. I grinded the notch and rotated plate with brushes. This decreased amps from 1.7 to 1.3A and increased tork nicely. Any hint of heat was eliminated and as it is now clamped it runs stone cold. You could see on the Skope spikes are most visible on 2.1v run.
Thank you for a wonderfull ride and as my batteries arrive hope more to come. I also must thank Bro Mike for sending me your way.
David.

[jettis]

Here is another...

[jettis]

Multi Strand Coil Increases Magnetic Field...

Here is one page of Ron Coles notes, that John Bedini has shared in time past, that give some insight into multi strand coils and magnetic field strength for minimal current increase / strand.

Dave Wing

[Matthew Jones]

Here is my motor ready to go.
As it finally is becoming relevant here is my 6 years old video using two coils and magnets on ends. Switching is done manually with magnet and read switch. Spikes open voltage are in exes of 1000v. [ATTACH]17805[/ATTACH]

https://youtu.be/tM27VekKO08

Second with spark gap same setup.

https://youtu.be/wG7ud711d_Q

I like the litz'd wire.. Curious how that turns out.

Cheers
Matt

[desa]

Quencher

Here is my motor ready to go.
As it finally is becoming relevant here is my 6 years old video using two coils and magnets on ends. Switching is done manually with magnet and read switch. Spikes open voltage are in exes of 1000v. image.jpg

https://youtu.be/tM27VekKO08

Second with spark gap same setup.

https://youtu.be/wG7ud711d_Q

[blackchisel97]

@V about the mechanical switching, as Matt says I think solid state has gotten pretty good, don't know if it's 100% compareable to a mechanical switch but it sure is easier. I did run a 3 batt setup with relays at about 15Hz, but didn't have good results.

Mario

I was thinking something as simple as two DC motors with coupled shafts, where one would have internal windings cut from the commutator.
This way it's speed thus switching rate could be varied with duty cycle remaining low but fixed. I think, 15Hz could be too slow, perhaps?
I have no intentions to derail this thread with my thoughts and will stay quiet.

My boost converter has two caps, one on the input and one on the output. Removing the output causes drastic change in current draw (in 3B system) and Mosfet starts to cook. Spikes or the "noise" are quite impressive - see pic below, taken across the Batt3. I bought them for different purpose and they have CV and CC pots, not just CV.

Thanks
V

[Mario]

@Matt,

Thats what has amazed me about this newest setup. What are you really doing? Your using a crude boost circuit

The way it's set up it's actually a buck converter. I know it's not efficient as a boost converter, but I wanted to drive the sandwiched secondary load coil setup, where the collapse of the primary coils goes to batt 3, that's why I used a self-built circuit. It's still almost 90% efficient.

@V about the mechanical switching, as Matt says I think solid state has gotten pretty good, don't know if it's 100% compareable to a mechanical switch but it sure is easier. I did run a 3 batt setup with relays at about 15Hz, but didn't have good results.

Mario

[SkyWatcher]

Hi all, Hi matt, i de-soldered the two output smoothing capacitors on the boost converter.
It works, i can just barely hear the high frequency in the 6 watt led bulb i'm using as a load.
I notice this cree 6 watt led dimmable bulb seems to work better than my non-dimmable 6 watt led ecosmart bulbs.
The non-dimmable ones flicker a little, no matter how much i tweak the voltage and current output of booster.
I will be testing this some more.
peace love light

[Matthew Jones]

Matt,

I think, you meant to type .01uF or 10nF, not pF.

V

Oh I was wrong its .1 PF @500v The smallest capicitor I have seen.

AQ147M0R1BAJME AVX Corporation | Capacitors | DigiKey

Noise is easily cleared up with a good gate channel and well practiced PCB placement. 100's of PDF's, by every mosfet manufacturers, that discuss it.

Matt

[blackchisel97]

The spikes might hurt the load but they will not hurt the boost converter as there is a diode to allow them to travel outwards.
Worst case you have solder in some some small caps so the chip that drive the thing will function. .01 PF at 500 volt or something like that. But I do not think that is the case from looking at mine.

Matt

Matt,

I think, you meant to type .01uF or 10nF, not pF.

V

[blackchisel97]

I don't know what your doing wrong... How could I? But if your under the opinion that Fets cannot produce strong on off signals then you must be doing something wrong. I am sure mechanical can do just as much but the dynamic ability to adjust is just not there.

I was just bothered by the statement that semi conductors are somehow inferior, do to delay time and voltage drop, which almost don't exist anymore in a modern semi conductor.

Just my opinion,But a good mosfet switch outperforms a mechanical switch every day of the week just because of its ability to be adjusted quickly.

Matt

Ok, that's the beauty of online communication vs live one.
I thought, you have a problem with my posted diagram and the side/way of switching... sending me back to study 555 and semiconductor theory .
What about the noise/harmonics content? Certainly, we won't get that in solid state but is this something that matters here, in your (or anybody else) opinion?
Again, just asking about this particular setup, not in general as I know the answers for different other applications. .

Thanks
V

[Matthew Jones]

Hi all, Hi matt, interesting idea about removing smoothing capacitors on output of boost converter, i had that same thought awhile ago.
I wonder though, if a load isn't connected with the capacitors removed, would the spikes damage the boost converter, maybe a neon should be placed across output just in case.
I think i will try it, can always solder them back on if need be.
peace love light

The spikes might hurt the load but they will not hurt the boost converter as there is a diode to allow them to travel outwards.
Worst case you have solder in some some small caps so the chip that drive the thing will function. .01 PF at 500 volt or something like that. But I do not think that is the case from looking at mine.

Matt