Motor
This is as cheap as you are likely to find one except at the junk yard, and free shipping. Junked ones are the best.
Electric scooter motor MY1016-B, 24VDC, 250W, 6 | eBay
But it isn't just the motor. You have to have batteries, wire, and all the parts to build a generator to run with the motor. "Free" energy isn't really "free" now is it?
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Basic Free Energy Device
Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
-
I'm really glad a replication has been made.
I had a dabble on a small scale but never had the money spare to buy a motor.
My understanding is that there are countless people out there wanting to jump on the bandwagon. However most folks haven't got much of a pot to get involved.
However, when they are convinced positive results are guaranteed they will be able to convince there wife's that the money is worth spending!Last edited by soundiceuk; 10-21-2016, 06:34 AM.
Leave a comment:
-
Funny thing
But here's the funny thing. There are like five people in the whole world posting their results here. Does that mean nobody else is working on this, or that they are keeping everything to themselves in the hopes of running off to patent something? Or does it mean that only five people in the whole world are smart enough to realize what has been shared on this thread? I hear people on other threads excited about the POSSIBILITY of 100 watts in and 300 watts out, and I have seen better than that with generators attached to this motor made with plywood and a hot glue gun. I would be the first to admit that I don't always share everything here, but I still share more than I probably SHOULD if I ever want make any money off this stuff. Anyway we will just keep on working and see where it gets us.
Dave
Leave a comment:
-
Testing
I remember from the testing I did years ago on this that when I increased the load on the motor, I once again had to balance it by adjusting the load on battery 3, but I was able to go back and forth running larger and larger loads by balancing it with a larger load on battery 3. I'm sure you will see this when you experiment more with this setup
Leave a comment:
-
Shematics
image.jpgBetter late than never my friend. Yes load on bat 3. It is variable potential that is neceserly to balace two opposing forces sides by side. It is many parameters that have to be managed but it can be done. It is hard to wrap the brain around it and I have lot's to think about it to sort it out. It is bloody programming we have to shake off. Your hard work is here for all to see. Thank you again.
Shematics as the last test inclouded in attachment.
David.
Originally posted by Turion View PostDesa,
So you ended up running an adjustable load (resistor) directly on battery three? LOL
This is EXACTLY what I TOLD people back in the original 3BGS thread!!!
I would add a tiny load to battery 3 and the motor would speed up. Wait about five minutes as the system tried to equalize itself. If you have the RIGHT load, the motor will speed up AGAIN. If it doesn't, the load is either too big or too small. I did this trial and error until I got my load on battery 3 balanced with the load on the motor. Those were my instructions for balancing the system 8 YEARS ago, but nobody listened!!!
Leave a comment:
-
Old times
Desa,
So you ended up running an adjustable load (resistor) directly on battery three? LOL
This is EXACTLY what I TOLD people back in the original 3BGS thread!!!
I would add a tiny load to battery 3 and the motor would speed up. Wait about five minutes as the system tried to equalize itself. If you have the RIGHT load, the motor will speed up AGAIN. If it doesn't, the load is either too big or too small. I did this trial and error until I got my load on battery 3 balanced with the load on the motor. Those were my instructions for balancing the system 8 YEARS ago, but nobody listened!!!
Leave a comment:
-
End of the road.
If I sound extremely enthusiastic and overstep the boundaries please forgiv me and if my measurements are in error I ask for same. As you can see in attachment this is my setup. I run it for hours tuning and tuning. Had many tweeks and finally it is self regulating and running at no cost to primaries.
I know it is to much to say after all that was done by all who replicated so I must first say my hat is off to you Matt and Dave. If it was not for you and you self less sharing and prompting us to get our hand dirty I would not be here reporting on such wonderful results. The testing and tuning is a buger. It really has to be a perfect balance on charging and consuming side and when I say perfect that is exactly that. Whatever comes in must come out and batteries stay absolutly still. After 2.5 hours of running I have not seen a single intention to deviate one side or another. In the start of test I used light 20w 24V to add load but it was singular load and I could not variate to balance system. Every time I added load my motor would speed up and no matter where buck converter was adjusted. I finally decided to use warriable resistor load directly on batery 3. Firstly I adjusted buck converter with motor running independently of anything and got 15.5 V set on it, than I pluged it in the circuit end let it run. In the beginning I drained 2 primaries and was about to rest and put the charger to start from beginning. But as I turned resistor little more I hit the sweet spot. Motor run little slower and voltage on the motor input dropped. Batteries calmed down and rested on the same voltage for the duration of the runn. Now all the numbers can be extrapolated from what you can see in the attachment and we can beat it debate it as long as we want but final outcome is going to be same. It is inposible to run 1.3A load from batteries for 2.5 hours and drain down nothing. Point finale. On top of it the acing on the cake is shaft torque for free and more icing on the free cake is resistive heat on the resistor. As you can see it alone is 13.3 X 1.2 = 15.9 W of usable power. Without resistive load we are running at recirculating power of 1.2 A. With resistor on it only bumps up to 1.3 so don't confuse your observation with matching amps on two amp meters. It is part of system but running independently as a load and only to balance two side of equivsion. At this moment it is best I managed. I know we need more testing and longer duration but let's be frank. If you ever run the motor off the batteries in amps I presented you would be as excited as I am. So get you hands dirty replicate prove it or disapprove it, there is something here. If this is indeed what we were looking for all this years let's explore it and put it to good use. It is time for a change. Thank you Dave, Thank you Matt you are my heroes.
David.image.jpg
Leave a comment:
-
@ Dave.
40 each side,, sorry I was not more precise. I had leftover so your count 75 something is just about perfect. It depends how snug one can fit it.
Stay tuned for my next post it is barn burner.
Leave a comment:
-
Motor
Bob is correct. I wound each side of my motor with six strands 80" long of #6 and it fit 75 turns in each slot. Unfortunately, when I had the second side almost done, two of the strands broke, and I was forced to cut 20 feet off that side to get to a point where all the wires would be the same length. I then rewound that side with 40 turns in each slot, and rewound the other side the same. It runs with a LOT of torque, but I haven't tuned it because I can't find my tach. I ordered another one which should be here any day now. As soon as that gets here, I'll let you all know how it turns out.
Desa, I am curious why you say that 40 feet of llitzed wire is the max the motor can take???? I know 80' of litzed will fit because I just wound one with that much, and it was the smaller of the three rotors they make for they MY1016. The larger motors are 1/2 inch wider and will hold even MORE wire.
Dave
Leave a comment:
-
Thats what the boost converters are for...Originally posted by [email protected] View Postdesa David,
Yes, I balanced the motor. It was 40' each side of 6 strands of 30AWG, Litzed. I had plenty of room left over. Dave put 80' of the same. He's looking for his tach, but said it pulled strong.
My results were done with a single Battery, about 11.98V under load. The 3BGS will run about the same, but the voltage keeps changing as Battery 3 rises. The voltage is often between 9 & 11V.
You have to laugh to keep from crying sometimes. lol If you get too serious with this stuff, it will eat you alive.
Bob
Leave a comment:
-
desa David,
Yes, I balanced the motor. It was 40' each side of 6 strands of 30AWG, Litzed. I had plenty of room left over. Dave put 80' of the same. He's looking for his tach, but said it pulled strong.
My results were done with a single Battery, about 11.98V under load. The 3BGS will run about the same, but the voltage keeps changing as Battery 3 rises. The voltage is often between 9 & 11V.
You have to laugh to keep from crying sometimes. lol If you get too serious with this stuff, it will eat you alive.
Bob
Leave a comment:
-
My pics didn't post, so here they are.
Bob
Leave a comment:
-
Bob end all..
Your motor looks great. How are your fingers. Winding is not funn. You say 60 on each side,, perhaps single wind because lidz 40 on each side is about max this motor can take. If I can suggest, epofy your wire all around because as your speed it up centrifugal forces are destructive. I also wonder if you balanced rotor. This fact alone is detrimental in getting rpm to the maximum. Getting it wher you are I think now is the time to get on with second stage of testing with batteries. My are coming by Monday. I would need as much help as you so I hope smarter and wiser bud in to help as along.
@ Dave.. Nice to see your sense of humour is intact.
Happy experimenting to all.
David.
Originally posted by [email protected] View Postdesa, et all,
I took the 4 bolts out and drilled through the screw holes with a drill slightly smaller than the thread ID. Then from the back, I drilled out the small hole down to the threads with a drill slightly larger than the bolt threads. Then I screwed new bolts from the inside out the back so that I could attach bars across the back that allow all-thread to span from front to back to hold the motor together. (see pic) If not tightened, it allows a very wide range of adjustment.
My motor with 40' of 30AWG on each side runs great between 3014 rpm at 1.25A to 5095 rpm at 5A. I didn't push it beyond that.
I also needed to get the coils away from the bearing on the other motor after winding it. I found that using 24AWG magnet wire to tie it back, worked great. (see pic)
These are great little motors.
Enjoy,
Bob
Leave a comment:
Leave a comment: