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  • jim glinski
    replied
    Matt

    I think what i got from him was that the soft iron core was slightly poloized to match the incoming magnet like North to North but much weaker .so when the soft iron core was over whelmed buy the incoming strong northern flux field it would go south for one flip then back to North when the mag pulled out .two flips . testing will tell if viable . Jim sounds strange!

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  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    Originally posted by jim glinski View Post
    Very important to me good to see keeping a small ft print. Thanks for what you're doing .I saw a video about a person in the UK working on a Muller generator .he hit 20 Watts over by many things but his using small magnets to pre polarize the power coils so when the incoming neo would cause a flip in the coil polarity making the extra Energy. He said it was tricky to do .but it worked .the men in black shut him down. So he said. Good work guys.happy holidays .

    That was Romero UK. He claimed it self ran too.
    All you have to do is read Muller's stuff, he never self ran. He has 2 tests reports from Square D and someone else, can't remember, and both of them showed a gain from input but not enough to self run.
    So many people worked on that thing and still don't have clue.

    Polarizing a core won't give you extra energy. Adding magnets to a core may make a motor spin faster but it works against you in a generator.

    Matt

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  • jim glinski
    replied
    100 to 200 watts

    Very important to me good to see keeping a small ft print. Thanks for what you're doing .I saw a video about a person in the UK working on a Muller generator .he hit 20 Watts over by many things but his using small magnets to pre polarize the power coils so when the incoming neo would cause a flip in the coil polarity making the extra Energy. He said it was tricky to do .but it worked .the men in black shut him down. So he said. Good work guys.happy holidays .

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  • Mario
    replied
    Matt, ok got it.

    cheers,
    Mario

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  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    Originally posted by Mario View Post
    Hi Matt,

    I would like to build something close to you generator in dimensions, especially the long coils which are one of the keys to get high inductance without too much resistance since more wire is close to the core material. Could you give me the coil spool dimensions and core material you used?

    Also, from the video it's kind of hard to tell how the coils (spools) are attached to the outer frame plates. I see the screws but am not sure where the spool ends and how deep it goes into the side plates. Could you make drawing, even a rough hand drawing, showing a cross-section of that?

    Nice work by the way

    thanks,
    Mario
    Just give me some time before you try to replicate what I am putting out. I give stuff out that is throughly proven. People mess it up on their own accord then no else replicates it.
    At least if I know what I putting out works then I have no guilt about it.

    Just another week. I'll give ya what you need.

    Matt

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  • Turion
    replied
    The only reference to a diode was when a Pulse Width Modulator (PWM) is added to the circuit. If all you are using is one or two boost modules, you don't need any diode anywhere.

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  • jim glinski
    replied
    Tomatoes

    Matt saw those tomatoes the only thing greener is my enviy !

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  • Wistiti
    replied
    Ok thank you Dave for the reply!
    So if we just use one boost module for the load the diode is use for putting some power back ... ( diode from the 3rd batt+ to 1rst batt+). Is it correct??

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  • Turion
    replied
    Wistiti,
    Since you are using the circuit with the two boost modules, there is no need for any diode that I know of.

    You can improve your circuit in TWO ways.
    1. More efficient boost modules...and stay tuned for THAT because it is coming. That is one of the things Matt has been working on.
    2. An additional source of power to recharge the primaries (like some energy from the generator being run by the motor, which is what Matt will be showing soon, OR another circuit that draws a tiny bit of power from the current circuit, but provides a LOT of power back to the system, which is what I have been working on for several weeks now and am testing now before disclosing.

    There are ALWAYS going to be some losses in the basic system because of friction, heat, inefficient transference or conversion of energy, etc. They goal is to make up for those by using energy in a different way than has been common practice. Or to take energy that has been WASTED in conventional systems and USE it.
    Dave

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  • Wistiti
    replied
    Hi Matt, Dave and other builders!
    Im on something i will share when I have finish but for now I have a question...

    For the 3bgs part what is the best we can use until now..? The best i use for now is what Matt have share: a boost module between the +24 and +12 for the load and another boost module on the 3rd batt for keeping the 24v topped...
    You guys say also to put a diode in the circuit but I don't know where...????
    Can someone tell me where and for what purpose..?

    Is there something else I am messing for the optimal supply part ? (I also include in the motor for the load as an integral part of the supply system)

    Thank you!

    Leave a comment:


  • Mario
    replied
    Hi Matt,

    I would like to build something close to you generator in dimensions, especially the long coils which are one of the keys to get high inductance without too much resistance since more wire is close to the core material. Could you give me the coil spool dimensions and core material you used?

    Also, from the video it's kind of hard to tell how the coils (spools) are attached to the outer frame plates. I see the screws but am not sure where the spool ends and how deep it goes into the side plates. Could you make drawing, even a rough hand drawing, showing a cross-section of that?

    Nice work by the way

    thanks,
    Mario

    Leave a comment:


  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    Originally posted by Sawt2 View Post
    Thanks for your patience in helping me understand. i'll have to study that schematic, electronics is not my strong suit, but, i am learning.

    Well its a simple driver. Power comes into the system via PL1 (A wire connector). It travels through D1 a diode that keeps power from backing into the batteries. PS1 is a 5 volt regulator that supplies OP1 with its power. OP1 is an optical sensor that drives Q1 and Q2 IGBT. These IGBT's act just like transistors so they are on when the gate has voltage and off when they don't don't. Q1 drives the motor, when its shut off D2 lets the power that is left in the coil dump into the capacitors C1 - C6. The capacitors fill up higher than the source voltage and the next time Q1 and Q2 come on that power from the capacitors then dumps into the motor first and then the rest of the power needed comes from the battery system.

    Overall I am hoping for anywhere from 50 - 70% reduction in power use from the motor with the almost the same performance. Maybe a little lower rpms.

    I'll have it done by the end of the week or month who's know with me. LOL

    Any questions just ask. And that goes for anybody.

    Matt

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  • Sawt2
    replied
    Originally posted by Matthew Jones View Post
    Depend on how the PWM hooks up cause technically it should ground on battery 3 as well. So if thats the case the diode Anode (Input) should go on the motor ground hookup and back to battery 1.

    Attached is an image of the schematic for the Motor Controller which is just 1 step past what you are doing.

    Matt
    Thanks for your patience in helping me understand. i'll have to study that schematic, electronics is not my strong suit, but, i am learning.

    Leave a comment:


  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    Originally posted by Sawt2 View Post
    I think i was editing while you were posting, i went and looked at my setup and i described it wrong. The boost is between the positives, the boost feeds the pwm and the pwm goes to the motor.
    Depend on how the PWM hooks up cause technically it should ground on battery 3 as well. So if thats the case the diode Anode (Input) should go on the motor ground hookup and back to battery 1.

    Attached is an image of the schematic for the Motor Controller which is just 1 step past what you are doing.

    Matt
    Last edited by Matthew Jones; 01-14-2017, 02:24 AM.

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  • Sawt2
    replied
    Originally posted by Matthew Jones View Post
    Back to battery 1. The other way would allow the motor to run.

    Matt
    I think i was editing while you were posting, i went and looked at my setup and i described it wrong. The boost is between the positives, the boost feeds the pwm and the pwm goes to the motor.

    Leave a comment:

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