If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Matt, thanks for the quick reply. I think I get it now.
Just one more question - I'm assuming you ran a 4 battery Tesla switch with the load in between the positives. Did you find the results any different than with the load in between the negatives?
John K.
Only over the long run. With the positives you can condition the battery. With the negatives the batteries capacity drops.
One plate hold electrons the other doesn't. If you pull electrons from the plate that doesn't you end up degrading the material. So you end up with a galvanic battery which deteriorates. IE aluminum copper in salt water.
Matt
Matt, thanks for the quick reply. I think I get it now.
Just one more question - I'm assuming you ran a 4 battery Tesla switch with the load in between the positives. Did you find the results any different than with the load in between the negatives?
Hi Matt, not saying I disagree with you here - sounds like you have the dead batteries to back this up. But I'm having trouble understanding why this occurs.
The way I'm looking at it, if the load is a Bedini SG between the negatives on a 3 battery switch as far as the load is concerned it's still running on the potential difference between the two negatives. The current is still travelling through the circuit in the same direction.
I can't visualize what the difference is, than if the load was between the two positives.
What am I missing?
John K.
One plate hold electrons the other doesn't. If you pull electrons from the plate that doesn't you end up degrading the material. So you end up with a galvanic battery which deteriorates. IE aluminum copper in salt water.
Look at any 3 battery switch. If the load is between the negatives your fluid goes black inside the battery.
Matt
Hi Matt, not saying I disagree with you here - sounds like you have the dead batteries to back this up. But I'm having trouble understanding why this occurs.
The way I'm looking at it, if the load is a Bedini SG between the negatives on a 3 battery switch as far as the load is concerned it's still running on the potential difference between the two negatives. The current is still travelling through the circuit in the same direction.
I can't visualize what the difference is, than if the load was between the two positives.
While awaiting wire for rewinding motor I tried to marry couple things together and run with off the shelf MY1016 and simple gen from other experiment.
I had couple DC-DC converters which look like the one we should be using except, it has variable current option with extra trimpot. One of them works just fine but in the second one constant current kicks in and doesn't allow to raise it's output as required. I guess, this maybe the same issue as with 12V-80V converter, where internal chip causes problems.
I'll order the one which is recommended earlier in this thread, just in case if the one I have decides not to cooperate anymore.
Gen part was just a test setup from last year experiment and has 6 neos in the rotor and two six filar #21 coils. They should be #24 but at that time #21 was all I had available around. I don't have any meters (except for the charging 100Ah marine battery) hooked up yet so no data to share, just my experience with DC-DC converter.
Don't confuse yourself by listening to multiple sources. If you are trying to rewind a MY1016 motor to Matt's specifications, then watch Matt's YouTube instruction film and do it like that!!! The instructions are very clear. You can't misunderstand what he is saying.
If you wind it like Matt says, it will DO what Matt says it will do. End of Story.
Good luck,
Peter
You're right. Only need to order different wire.
I appreciate your reply and sharing your project
Don't confuse yourself by listening to multiple sources. If you are trying to rewind a MY1016 motor to Matt's specifications, then watch Matt's YouTube instruction film and do it like that!!! The instructions are very clear. You can't misunderstand what he is saying.
If you wind it like Matt says, it will DO what Matt says it will do. End of Story.
I'll be rewinding MY1016 according to Matt spec's and want to make sure I'm doing it right > once, not twice.
I just ordered more #23 wire hence, only one coil done a.t.m.
I watched Matt's YT and have read Tachyon's pdf. posted earlier in this thread.
It looks like Matt is using three strands of #24 wire while pdf. describes single strand of #23 and different number of turns. I'll be using 99 T of #23 for now unless, there is a significant difference in performance between 3 strand #24 and single #23. I have enough of #21 but would prefer to replicate first the pattern already tried/tested. I didn't find any reference to this detail, while going through the posts and just being curious.
Could someone chime in and tell me if my layout (attached pic) is correct?
I'll be rewinding MY1016 according to Matt spec's and want to make sure I'm doing it right > once, not twice.
I just ordered more #23 wire hence, only one coil done a.t.m.
I watched Matt's YT and have read Tachyon's pdf. posted earlier in this thread.
It looks like Matt is using three strands of #24 wire while pdf. describes single strand of #23 and different number of turns. I'll be using 99 T of #23 for now unless, there is a significant difference in performance between 3 strand #24 and single #23. I have enough of #21 but would prefer to replicate first the pattern already tried/tested. I didn't find any reference to this detail, while going through the posts and just being curious.
Could someone chime in and tell me if my layout (attached pic) is correct?
We've been told to use a motor, a flywheel, and a generator.....
See the pic.
There you have a 2 hp motor, which consumes around 1500 watts when up to speed.
Next, you see a 1" piece of cold roll steel being used as a shaft and going through a couple of weight lifting weights. (I'll use around 90 lbs and they'll be balanced.)
To the right is a 7kw generator.
Pulleys and belts will be used to transfer energy. (pulley calculators are available online.)
The idea is to spin the flywheel to get it moving, run the motor from a battery/inverter system until it comes up to speed and engage the belt driving the flywheel.
When the motor/flywheel is up to speed, engage the belt for the generator and let it come up to speed.
Now, 7kw is available for use. Flip a switch removing the battery/inverter and power the motor from the 7kw generator. That leaves one with more than 5 kw for other use.
So, there you have it. Nothing exotic. Everything available off the shelf at Graingers, Ebay, Craigslist, and elsewhere.
Metal for the frame can be scrounged or picked up at scrap yards. (I have a frame from a gas driven generator that will house another unit after this one is done.)
The system can be modified to run more than one generator, or to use a tapered shaft generator from gasoline motor driven models.
My machinist friend, who told me of this, is building one of these. There are videos of working models YouTube.
This will 'do', while waiting on parts for 'the exotics' to get out of the machine shop.
Did you read his post from yesterday? If anything changes either Matt or I can post an update if Dave asks us to.
He wasn't very medically forthcoming. There are numerous medical systems worldwide some of which which work well alongside our system and can improve outcomes.
Thank you, so much, for showing us all that the 3 Battery Power Supply can power motors and other things while recovering ALL the energy that is "used." I thought I understood it before, but building the system and SEEING IT with my own eyes was PRICELESS!! You Guys ROCK! A singularly STELLAR contribution to this field!!
You have more than achieved your goal with this thread and I totally support your decision to move beyond "babysitting" the ungrateful disrupters here and getting back to your own experiments!
To Everyone Else,
The machine I built, which is shown in Post #1256 and included again here, is made entirely from parts I purchased at TeslaGenX.com. That includes the coils, the coil frames, the motor rotors, the frame of the machine, and the motor drive circuits. That's 98% of the physical structure. I did add a few pieces of wood as horizontal stabilizers, to make sure that all of the vertical frame pieces remained parallel to each other, and perpendicular to the base. This kept the bearings in alignment and allowed higher speeds on the rotors.
The coil core material is "cut welding rod," which is standard for any Bedini SG project. The blue cart the unit is sitting on I got from Harbor Freight. I also got the blue LEDs and the red meters from Harbor Freight. The 12 gauge wire I used I found at a local True Value Hardware store in the automotive section. The Lawn and Garden batteries I used came from Walmart. The 2 X 4's I used to build the frame around the batteries so they couldn't move and short the system out, I got at Home Depot. The 10-amp analog input ammeter I got at allelectronics.com. All of the quick disconnect terminal blocks I got from Radio Shack.
The closest tolerances between the coils and the rotors is 0.25 inches, meaning that no special machine work is needed. So, for the most part, there aren't any exotic materials or difficult to get components in the entire machine, with the exception of: 1) the 10W, 1K potentiometer used to control the trigger circuit, and 2) the experimental automatic battery rotator, which is a PIC chip controlled rack of latching relays.
My machine is not finished yet, but just seeing that the motor section can run well passed the amp/hour rating of the batteries using the 3BPS, even before fine tuning, completely opened my eyes to new possibilities. All I can say is that there is an astonishing gift for you in this thread. Learn it if you can!!
FINAL NOTE: I totally agree with Dave's final comment in Post #1270 above. The impedance of the system is critical to excellent results. That means using big batteries that are in good condition and the practice of laying out the circuit to use the shortest possible lengths of large diameter wire with clean connections. This works, folks, and there are multiple ways to get there!
Again, spectacular THANKS to Dave and Matt for all of the genius, tolerance, and generosity you have shared in this thread.
My very best regards,
Peter
Thank you Peter for sharing your test with us. It is apreciate!
Dave, hope you will be fine soon.
Dave and Matt, thank you for your sharing!! Hope you will stay with the builder on this forum...
If David was ill why was this not posted on this forum? nunya business
Hey matt i did as you suggested and I was filled with pleasure, thank you!
Now I am worried that was not your intent? Did I get it right? out of the same mind that is forming prayers
I am pleased to hear that you in recovery mode. pure selfish, fake caring
I will say a prayer for you. no-one I know would want your prayers...worthless. my own person judgment call
Ron
Blue are mine.
I could have just minded my own business, and I know Matt and Dave can defend themselves just fine, but there are people seeking to understand and working toward independence, and we ask questions and share if we have anything worth it. Then you have demanders and beggars, trolls. We expect them to come, and they don't know a gift when one is staring them in the face. May God bless you David B., and you too Matthew J., even though you told me to leave you alone Alman
Last edited by alman; 08-05-2016, 05:17 PM.
Reason: add blue
Leave a comment: