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  • genessc
    replied
    Oh cool, thanks for the link to the trafo. I have 3 x 1kva trafos at home, but it sounds like those would be to small. It sounds like the two 22ft strands would have been the two power pulsed strands and the 28ft strand would have been the one to go forward thru a FWBR into the large uF cap to power the load eh?

    It sounds like I can get away with just 3 strands then. Is that right?

    How were you firing the switching? Is it flipflop where you fire switch 1, and then fire switch 2 and then back to switch 1?

    Or is it setup so that you fire switch 1, then off, then fire switch 2, then off, then fire switch 1, etc?

    The difference being, The first method noted being back to back firing of the switches, and the second method interspersing off time in between each alternate switch firing.

    It seems like the trafo core is only used then to Up the Inductance value of the 14awg strands which at 80ft air core is about 400-500uH of inductance. (at least on a pittsfield coil form). Adding r60 welding rod to the core brought it to 1mH-ish. It also brought the frequency way down. My trifilar 14awg coil runs right now at 30vdc and .8amps and at a frequency of about 12khz-ish. (just noted for reference or comparison)

    How long do you hold each switch closed?

    What is the frequency you have found to be the most functional?

    I did draw out the setup over the weekend and went thru some mental acrobatics trying to understand the flows in the circuit and I think I do understand them now. I don't know that I need to start out that big, but perhaps I do.

    Since you noted such big wire as #6 at such low turn counts you would probably have to be running the setup at a high frequency to still be able to dephase the current from the voltage on the inductances.

    Good stuff. Thanks for sharing, look forward to further interaction in attempting to understand and then build this device. (add it to the other 30+ things I've built over the last 6-7 years now, hopefully tho this one is showing a cop > 1. )

    Take care,
    Gene






    Originally posted by Matthew Jones View Post
    Its just rough drawing. I used a 3 kva transformer body as you noted. You can buy one here.
    This transformer is easy to break down and reconfigure.

    I bought a 10 lbs spool of 14 AWG and used about 5 lbs total. I put alot more on it than was required according to the math. It says to use 3 strands of #6 square wire. 2 strands at 22ft 1 strand at 28ft.
    I used 14 because of cost. So I went with what you noted. BUT!!! your gonna have to pack the spool with wood on the interior and come up with some kinda way to compress the wire as you go along. If you don't pack that wire in your gonna get alot of heat and waste energy. Air gaps in the wire cause capacitance that also causes over saturation.
    Just read up on transformer construction before you put it together.

    You'll need switch's that can handle alot of amperage, so don't start out small or you'll just have alot of fires.

    If you really going to build one and you need some help ASK!! I'll try to help.

    Matt

    Leave a comment:


  • JANGYD
    replied
    Happy to be here again

    Originally posted by John_Bedini View Post
    I see spikes as high as 35V maybe higher at the switch points but only at certain frequencies. At others frequencies, no spikes. I think this is the critical point to get to. We all know (at least JBers) that the spikes are current or mostly so.

    Leroy,
    That is where the magic is, The spike is the key to the Dirac Sea that is where the negative energy pops out of, chase the spike.John B
    Hi All, very happy to be here again and get to research.

    Leroy,
    How about your machine with 35V spike?
    Can your battery charge itself with the Scalar Chager circuit?

    I'm also seeing the spikes as high as 30~34V, but my battery can't charge itself yet.
    I remember JB also mentioned the 35V spike on #850 post.
    I am not sure about the spike I am seeing is the same spike as JB's mentioned.

    Recently I got to big progress with the potential switch and I'm going to review all of the JB's Posts again.

    I hope I have good result after some experiment.
    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    Originally posted by genessc View Post
    Howdy,
    Can someone point me to the currently used schematic for the device being discussed? Is the one above on page 114 the most current? It seems a bit different as noted in the post... as it appears to show air core but the post notes its using a 3kva trafo core... Also notes 6 strands versus the 3 in the picture. If I build to the picture, what should the resultant output be?
    As a side note, 80ft of 14awg wire is a 1lb spool. I know as I just wound myself a trifilar pittsfield spool of 3 x 1lb 14awg wires for some other experimentation I've got on the bench. Thats no small 3kva core/with 6 of these sized windings on it... thats a good 6 pounds + of wire.
    Please let me know, Thanks!
    Gene
    Its just rough drawing. I used a 3 kva transformer body as you noted. You can buy one here.
    This transformer is easy to break down and reconfigure.

    I bought a 10 lbs spool of 14 AWG and used about 5 lbs total. I put alot more on it than was required according to the math. It says to use 3 strands of #6 square wire. 2 strands at 22ft 1 strand at 28ft.
    I used 14 because of cost. So I went with what you noted. BUT!!! your gonna have to pack the spool with wood on the interior and come up with some kinda way to compress the wire as you go along. If you don't pack that wire in your gonna get alot of heat and waste energy. Air gaps in the wire cause capacitance that also causes over saturation.
    Just read up on transformer construction before you put it together.

    You'll need switch's that can handle alot of amperage, so don't start out small or you'll just have alot of fires.

    If you really going to build one and you need some help ASK!! I'll try to help.

    Matt

    Leave a comment:


  • genessc
    replied
    Howdy,

    Can someone point me to the currently used schematic for the device being discussed? Is the one above on page 114 the most current? It seems a bit different as noted in the post... as it appears to show air core but the post notes its using a 3kva trafo core... Also notes 6 strands versus the 3 in the picture. If I build to the picture, what should the resultant output be?

    As a side note, 80ft of 14awg wire is a 1lb spool. I know as I just wound myself a trifilar pittsfield spool of 3 x 1lb 14awg wires for some other experimentation I've got on the bench. Thats no small 3kva core/with 6 of these sized windings on it... thats a good 6 pounds + of wire.

    Please let me know, Thanks!
    Gene

    Leave a comment:


  • citfta
    replied
    Good job Matt!

    Hi Matt,

    That is very interesting. You and Bits and John K. have run off and left me in the dust. I have had too many other things going on to spend much time on testing and trying circuits. Congrats on another good job. Hope to get back into things before much longer.

    C ya, Carroll

    Leave a comment:


  • ashtweth
    replied
    Hi Matty, Vtech, Jeff , John and ALL

    Leaps and bounds as usual guys thanks for the good news and updates. I am going to try and find a super cap to go with this stuff, maybe send down to John, wonder if all those set ups can be run on super caps. I have the info on the carbon Japanese super caps some where, have always wanted to get one of those puppies to you guys to mess with. Beautiful to watch you guys work.

    Ash

    Leave a comment:


  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    I have 3 KVA transformer body that I am running. I run it about 420 hertz. The extra winding gives me about 14.5 volt or 2 volt over the true potential. My inverter likes that. Then I run a 500 watt 110 AC halogen.
    115 amp hour deep cycles.

    Its holds up well.

    You have to start it up and let run for a while before you add the capacitors to the 3rd winding. Then you wait a bit more and let the caps get charged real well. Then start pulling the load.
    The point is to develop a large skin charge so the batteries deliver across the transformer more like a capacitor and less like a battery. You have to protect the switch's as well, or you'll cook them.

    As soon as I got it rotating batteries I am going to publish the full thing. I'll get a camera too. My old one is broke.

    One thing about returning the power to the source... I have found that does not work well with the system running. Even the charge battery if its potential is high will dissipate alot of the power. Sometimes its better to just charge an outside battery then somehow cycle it into the system.

    Cheers
    Matt

    Leave a comment:


  • Farmhand
    replied
    Ok Matt, that looks awesome, 500 watts, you must have big batteries, the gain would be relative.

    Thanks for posting your drawing, I can see I am making a rookie mistake by powering the load from the positve, I will change that, Thanks again. This does look very promising and very very simple. Slight step up in the coils, but not much. the step up should be related to the frequency/duty maybe. As in low frequency more step up, not really sure.

    I am using High frequency pulses less than 3us in groups making 20 to 50 Khz working frequency, seems to work well, so that the pulse trains (including spaces between) take up about half the cycle. I'm using a BB transformer with extra windings. There are spots to tune to for better effect and I can see them on the scope. I actually using a choke before my primaries and a cap across them too. I can also replace the third "recovery battery with a cap pulser back to the source, which is how I use it mainly.

    I am seeing gains while taking small wattages, but my batteries are small and very old, almost worn out. So it kinda just holds it own but does regain total voltage given time, there is an equilibrium point where it runs with no further voltage drop for a given load, then when the load is removed it recovers most of it quickly.

    It would be a pleasure to see your's working.

    The picture below is from a different setup but the control circuit and the transformer are the same. The waveform when the controller and tranformer are used in the switch are similar but slightly more interesting. I don't actually have one to post at the moment.

    Cheers
    Last edited by Farmhand; 03-27-2013, 09:55 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    In fact I am testing a version that resembles that very closely. With good results.


    This is a rough drawing. The actual transformer was 6 winds of 14. 4 of the winds were 80 ft and the last 2 (on the output side) were 100 ft.

    I am also just about to test an additional system that rotates the charged battery out of the loop and lets it rest. Puts the discharged battery back into the Charge slot and drops a rested battery back into the discharge slot.
    Test done by hand show a gain in energy while running a 500 watt load.

    Cheers
    Matt

    Leave a comment:


  • Farmhand
    replied
    Hi all, this is the most usefull way I can find so far to use the Tesla Switch principal.



    The way the two source batteries are connected is the way edwin Gray used his two batteries in the photo below, it is intergral to a self running Generator using batteries. This battery configuration allows two batteries to have three working voltages and a Tesla Switch can configured between them to keep charge in the system.



    I did it it works. Post 67 onward in this thread explains a bit more.
    Potential Switch Oscillator - Page 4 - Heretical Builders

    Leave a comment:


  • blackchisel97
    replied
    Originally posted by John_K View Post
    Hi Vtech,

    Thanks!

    My proto board uses a PICAXE-40X2. (PIC18F4520).


    John K.
    Thanks John. This is totally new chip for me. I need to read more about to figure out what can be done with it.
    What kind of total input current is required?

    @Bit's I did replace both pulser caps with 27,000uF and re adjusted R9. It works really good. Now I'm looking at my (yours) pulsinator board wondering how to get him to do some work. The one I have was designed to work with 4 batteries and 4 relay coils. No stabilizer for 5V, just zener. I had this built and tested last summer but couldn't do anything else due to my job.


    Vtech
    Last edited by blackchisel97; 04-16-2011, 10:13 PM. Reason: added text

    Leave a comment:


  • John_K
    replied
    Tesla Switch with Solar Assist

    Originally posted by blackchisel97 View Post
    This is nice What chip are you using?

    Vtech
    Hi Vtech,

    Thanks!

    My proto board uses a PICAXE-40X2. (PIC18F4520).


    John K.

    Leave a comment:


  • blackchisel97
    replied
    Originally posted by John_K View Post
    Hey gang,

    Here is another sneak preview of the Tesla Switch that Bit's and I are working on.

    YouTube - Tesla Switch with Solar Assist

    In this mode I am using one 24V 200W solar panel to charge up four 130Ah 12V batteries. You can see the needle on the amp meter is off the scale when there is full sun on the panel.

    This is the first prototype version, a full version which will show other modes as well as the LCD which will allow the user to select different modes will be demonstrated at the Renaissance Free Energy Conference in July.

    Renaissance Charge July 2011 Free Energy Conference

    Thanks to Bit's for all of his help!


    John K.
    This is nice What chip are you using?

    Vtech

    Leave a comment:


  • John_K
    replied
    Tesla Switch with Solar Assist

    Hey gang,

    Here is another sneak preview of the Tesla Switch that Bit's and I are working on.

    YouTube - Tesla Switch with Solar Assist

    In this mode I am using one 24V 200W solar panel to charge up four 130Ah 12V batteries. You can see the needle on the amp meter is off the scale when there is full sun on the panel.

    This is the first prototype version, a full version which will show other modes as well as the LCD which will allow the user to select different modes will be demonstrated at the Renaissance Free Energy Conference in July.

    Renaissance Charge July 2011 Free Energy Conference

    Thanks to Bit's for all of his help!


    John K.
    Last edited by John_K; 04-16-2011, 07:35 AM. Reason: forgot to paste the link

    Leave a comment:


  • sujan_ms
    replied
    Originally posted by blackchisel97 View Post
    Diodes are on the left side of pcb by the pulser caps. I'm showing components on my youtube and the bridge which is on the side facing transformer. I'm running this off 12V DC. There is a free software available online to program any PIC family controller. You can start with code provided by Bit's but it may need to be modified depending on your components, such as transformer. I have this running on different transformer which has been changed for a bigger one allowing higher frequency without heating itself.

    Hope this helps


    Vtech
    hey can you just let me know your component spec which differs from jeff as i am not getting output at all. i am using a primary 6-0-6 and secondary 110v
    but across the secondary im getting only 2v ac and 6v ac across primary.
    please help me by sending your code and component spec. and also let me know what value should i set the pot i.e R9 im am not able to get 2.5 volt across chip nor 44v across cap pulsor. please tell if im wrong .

    Leave a comment:

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