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Use for the Tesla Switch

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  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    All you can do is try. Make the output wire 25% longer. If the wire is too fat you may have some heat issues.

    Matt

    Leave a comment:


  • ehsanco1062
    replied
    Hi Matt
    I have on my hand #18 and #17 AWG wire enough to make the little tesla switch while waiting the other order to be ship will these wire work or not since i have the transformer disassemble and ready to wind.

    Thanks
    Ehsan

    Leave a comment:


  • citfta
    replied
    Transformer

    I have had someone ask about the transformer I used. I used the Radio Shack transformer that Matt had listed in his parts list. The part number is 273-1512B. It has a secondary winding which is a 25 volt winding with a center tap giving 12.5 volts from the center tap to each side. It has 2 yellow wires and one black wire on the secondary side. The black wire is the center tap. I removed the case and found where the black wire attached to the windings. I also found that there were two wires twisted together with the black wire and all three were soldered together. I unsoldered them and carefully separated them. I then attached the original black wire to one of the windings and attached an additional black wire to the other winding. This gave me two separate 12.5 volt windings that were identical. I then reinstalled the case. Now we only have to figure out the phasing so we don't have any problems with surges as Matt has said we might if we don't get the phasing right. If you look at Matt's drawing you want to mark it as follows. On the highest coil mark the left end wire yellow and on the other end of that coil mark that wire black. Now on the next coil down (the other primary coil) mark the left end black and the right end yellow. So when you wire up your transformer to your circuit you should have a yellow lead from the transformer going to the top battery on the left and the other end (black) going to the bottom battery on the right. You should also have a yellow lead from the transformer going to the top battery on the right and the other end (black) going to the bottom battery on the left.

    This will give you about 90 to 100 volts AC depending on the charge in your batteries and the load you put on it. An easy load to use without needing a bridge rectifier and cap is a small 110 volt bulb. Something about 10 to 20 watts. Please be careful because that 90 to 100 volts or so can really hurt you if you touch it while it is on. With what Matt is teaching us we are starting to play in the big boy league now and you can get seriously hurt if you are not careful. I was planning to post a drawing of how to rewind the transformer but the file size was too big. I'll try to get it resized and post it later. I wanted to post this for the people who don't want to rewind the transformer but still want to try out this circuit. Maybe this way we can get more people involved and testing. Be sure and follow Matt's instructions for safety and tuning.

    Carroll

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  • ehsanco1062
    replied
    Originally posted by Matthew Jones View Post
    I am would say the most number 10 wire you going to use is about 130 ft or just under 40 meters.

    2 40 ft primaries (12.19 meters each)
    1 50 ft secondary (15.24 meters each)

    That might be a little bit too much but you won't need more than that.
    I hope...

    I wish I had a good way to calculate wire on a spool but I have not found one and since most of the time we are hand winding and not machine winding it makes it that much more difficult.

    Matt
    Hi Matt
    Thanks a lot Matt you are always there when we need you .
    you save me 100$.
    I appreciate your help

    Thanks
    Ehsan

    Leave a comment:


  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    Originally posted by ren View Post
    Interesting.
    Thanks Matt and Jeremy.
    So there seems to be some sort of "sloshing" occuring when the batteries are series connected? It would seem to me that a parallel connection would work even better but as Matt has pointed out, its much easier with just two switches, and still gives results.
    Is it worth trying other SSR's out of similar spec, if the HongFa's are hard to find/post? What should I look for, high current/voltage high speed? isolation?
    Ren
    Current and speed matter. But any switch will work. I am personally loving some cheap Mosfets right now. As soon as I learned to really drive them (Thanks Bits) I have had alot of good success with them.

    I linked to some in an earlier thread that are running a switch now.

    Matt

    Leave a comment:


  • ren
    replied
    Originally posted by jerdee View Post
    Hey Ren,

    The circuit is designed to not charge the bottom battery on each side. Matt is taking advantage of the spill factor from top batteries. So yes, he is only charging top battery on each side...not parallel as thought.

    What he has found is that the top battery will keep the lower battery at a maintained charge due to the spill factor. This prevents batteries over all draining as fast as two in series going to parallel. Think about it...much less voltage drop across all switches and diodes due to only TWO SWITCHES USED!!! This is very important for Matt's replication. So to answer your question...YES..the switch is designed specifically for this.

    Also diodes play a major roll here! The more diodes in parallel for bridge the larger the surface area ...which translates to less voltage drop across load.

    It's all about maintaining the highest voltage potential.

    Jeremy B.
    Interesting.

    Thanks Matt and Jeremy.

    So there seems to be some sort of "sloshing" occuring when the batteries are series connected? It would seem to me that a parallel connection would work even better but as Matt has pointed out, its much easier with just two switches, and still gives results.

    Is it worth trying other SSR's out of similar spec, if the HongFa's are hard to find/post? What should I look for, high current/voltage high speed? isolation?


    Ren

    Leave a comment:


  • rosehillworks
    replied
    TO the moon

    keep up the good work Matt .

    Everyone should build what Matt is trying to help us build . You know it dose not matter what star one would like to go to after you are done with this thing . Matt. Is right the problem is not getting the power out of this thing it is controling it. Do it simple!.
    I know Matt knows where he is going with this thing.

    Leave a comment:


  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    While I am in the mood to type and I am caring on I wanna stress one thing to all of you.

    I can be a jerk at times, all of you have seen that. I am not trying to be one this time.

    I do not care if you replicate this down to the nose hair. What I want to see is the fact that you can find a circuit that is similar that works. That produces the AC power out with relative ease. That you know how to tune it and how to troubleshoot it.
    Thats it. I don't care about components, or results. I do not care about whether you can define the basic theory behind it. I just wanna see that you understand what your doing. Period

    A good example is Cifta (Carroll). He didn't feel like winding the transformer. So he made the one he had work. And it did.
    HATS OFF!!!!

    He didn't have any problems cause he followed the basic safety and startup instructions.


    So I want ya'll to know that, if this thing is easy for ya get it done any way you want.
    And I will consider it.

    But if you don't have a clue the instructions are there for you. If they are not detailed enough ask questions. But just make sure you are satisfied with your work before you show it off.

    Thats it. I just wanted to know.

    Matt

    Leave a comment:


  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    Follow up on OU research.com

    Matt states in his PDF that: "The TS is not a matter of the reaction from the batteries or the transformer. It is not the SWITCHING that makes it happen. Its the reaction you create in the environment you build and the power that reaction returns. That power is then stored and released, in an unimaginable way."

    My apologies to Matt if I read this statement out of context but to me it implies that the environment is responsible for the high performance (4x to 8x) as he says "its not the switching that makes it happen". I took the 'make it happen' and "the power that reaction returns" to mean the 4x to 8x performance gain over conventional loading. If the return is not due to the environment then maybe the cycling of the batteries is creating fresh plate material by the process of desulfation?? If Matt has no idea why the return is 4x to 8x then that's fine and its up to others to decide for themeselves whether his claim stands up through experimentation and if so, to decide on why this is. I have already built a small transformer and pulse generator and will be running it up in a day or so.

    Matt has put himself out to share his ideas to form a practical project and I congratulate him for that. He has very sensibly raised the important issue of safety in his PDF. In addition to the safety procedures he describes, I would suggest the insertion of fuses for added protection.

    Hoppy
    @Hoppy
    Your mixing apples and oranges, even though you don't mean to.

    The switch outlined for everyone to duplicate does NOT follow the statement in the paper
    MJ wrote....
    The TS is not a matter of the reaction from the batteries or the transformer. It is not the SWITCHING that makes it happen. Its the reaction you create in the environment you build and the power that reaction returns. That power is then stored and released, in an unimaginable way.
    This is another switch entirely. The one outlined is simply an ungrounded circuit. You are not throwing away your electricity. You are just redirecting it for use again and again. Just good conservation. No magic if you will.

    The true TS is as I outlined in that statement. It is a reaction between the environment and the environment we create in the circuit. We open a path for energy to come in from the environment. This allows us to do things and see results that are not explainable even under TS we are looking at now.

    The goal, and I have stated this alot now. If you get the basic one down and learn to use it, And I am impressed with your work I will make sure to show how to drive that particular circuit in a fashion that is unlike anything anyone has seen to date. Or at least let us know about.
    Alot of people question the validity of Ronald Brandt story about driving a car around town and up to about 600 miles on a simple 6 battery switch.

    I no longer have any doubt he did.....

    So do the work, get the reward.

    If this thing was explainable from any way other than replication I would explain. But it is not is dangerous and scary and the one person who seen RoseHillWorks will tell ya, its going to be job just managing its use. So if you can't use this simple little switch you do not stand chance with the next version.

    Cheers
    Matt

    Leave a comment:


  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    I am would say the most number 10 wire you going to use is about 130 ft or just under 40 meters.

    2 40 ft primaries (12.19 meters each)
    1 50 ft secondary (15.24 meters each)

    That might be a little bit too much but you won't need more than that.
    I hope...

    I wish I had a good way to calculate wire on a spool but I have not found one and since most of the time we are hand winding and not machine winding it makes it that much more difficult.

    Matt

    Leave a comment:


  • ehsanco1062
    replied
    OH
    sorry Matt i forget to tell you that I will use 3000 Watts Step Down Voltage Converter 220v to 110v.

    Thanks
    Ehsan

    Leave a comment:


  • ehsanco1062
    replied
    [QUOTE=Matthew Jones

    Sorry about the prices. I wish I had the time to comb the continents for the best deals. But unfortunately.....

    Matt[/QUOTE]

    Hi Matt
    thanks for the information ,but ya you kan help if you just tell me how many feets I need to by if i will take 10 AWG wire ,not exactly because it will make a lot different.

    ehsan

    Leave a comment:


  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    The difference between enamel and regular is the temperature it will handle.

    Enameled wire - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

    This should explain it. What you'll see is the regular wire is the low grade and the enamel is the high grade.

    Sorry about the prices. I wish I had the time to comb the continents for the best deals. But unfortunately.....

    Matt

    Leave a comment:


  • ehsanco1062
    replied

    Leave a comment:


  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    Ya I used this one when I got started with it.
    Get The Propeller Platform USB!

    Its a nice setup.

    But the beginner model at Parallax is also nice because it puts out audio and video.

    Propeller Demo Board

    Just depends on what you want. They also have a professional version.

    They even a scope kit somewhere for it. You can build a scope for it.

    Its got alot of bells and whistles for sure and libraries that are out there for it are pretty endless in options.

    Cheers
    Matt

    Leave a comment:

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