Was Outa town
Hey all
I was outa town doing some work. Just wanted to let every know in case anymore questions have popped up. Anyway I am back won't be leaving again for a while.
@Carroll
Can't wait to see some result. Anything you need let me know.
Cheers.
Matt
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You're welcome
Hi again David,
You're welcome. I'm glad I could help a little. I suggested looking up the data sheet with a search because different companies sometimes include different info on the data sheets. So you may find one that has the info you want when another one does not. By the way that numbering system for the pins holds true for almost all DIP (dual in line pin) chips. But it is still a good idea to check if you have any doubts. I am charging up some batteries now and hope to start testing in the next day or so on my Matt TS. As you probably already know we can sure learn a lot from Matt. Hope to see your test results soon.
C Ya, Carroll
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Carroll,
Thanks so much for that explanation. The first thing I did was pull up the data sheet to see the pin configuration, but the real confusion was how to relate that to Matt's drawing. I am happy to see that I had puzzled out the orientation on Matt's drawing correctly, since I was talking about the one on the left, and what I figured was pin 1 on the bottom right does indeed have the resistor connected to it. I should have known that little indicator was on his drawing for a reason. And I am so glad that you pointed out it is in a different position on the one on the right!! I learn something new every day.
David
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opto's
Will chime in here just a bit. I use opto switching wherever I can. I now use optic transistors and a super bright white led to trigger it. Just remember the resistor on the led side if used to switch motors. Of course you all knew that already.....
thay
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H11d1 pinout
Hi David,
The easiest way to find something like that is to do a search like this "H11D1 data sheet". This will usually bring up the info you are looking for. In this case it shows pins one and two are the input diode and pins four and five are the output transistor emitter and collector. To figure out which pins are what look at the top side of the chip. You will see a little dot on one corner. That corner is pin number one. Putting that pin at the top left side you would count down the left side going one two three and so on until you get to the bottom of the left side. Then you jump over to the bottom of the right side and count the pins going up the right side.
In Matt's drawing he is showing the 22 ohm resistor connected to pin 1 of the H11D1 and pin 2 of the H11D1 going back to the negative side of the power going to the stamp chip. He is showing the negative battery going to pin 4 and the emitter of the MJL21193 going to pin 5. If you look at the H11D1 on the right side of Matt's drawing it is oriented like I described earlier with the little dot at the top left. Pins 1,2 and 3 are going down the left side and pins 4,5 and 6 are going up the right side. The most confusing thing for most new people trying to build with chips is when they are mounting the chips on a board like perfboard and turn the board over to solder on the bottom side. Now everything is a reverse image and people get mixed up on which pins are which. I have been working in electronics a long time and I still do it sometimes when I don't take time to think about what I am doing.
Good luck on your build.
Carroll
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Anybody know anything about the h11d1 for the Sziklai pair build?
I am about as confused as I can be as to how to wire it.
The data sheet shows a picture of it with pins down, and next to that schematic. I am assuming that the way to tell how to orient it is by testing the pins with a meter. According to what I understand, pins 1(A) and 2(C) should be the only two pins on a side that show a connection to each other, so I can figure out which ones are 1(A) and 2(C). That is, if I'm correct in that assumption. Unfortunately, I am not sure. To make it even more confusing, I am not sure which way Matt has it oriented in his drawing. (From the top down)...1(A),2(C),3(NC) on the left and 6(Base), 5(Collector), 4(Emitter) on the right????
To me it makes more sense from what little I know about electronics that it would be (From the top down) 4(Emitter), 5(collector), 6(Base) on the left and 3(NC), 2(C), 1(A) on the right. But that there is the problem...I know LITTLE about electronics. Just trying to puzzle it out. Any help would be appreciated. I would like to hook this up right the first time.
Excuse me for demonstrating my complete ignorance. But this is how I learn. Many are the walls that now lie in crumbling heaps, and I continue to find new ones to beat my head against.
David
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hi DavidOriginally posted by Turion View PostAll,
I ended up taking the transformer apart to wind it. I used the 36/36/44 lengths of wire as discussed previously. At the present time I have it about half reassembled and have been stopping from time to time to super glue it back together with tiny dots of super glue, and then clamping it so that it is squeezed together tightly. My whole process seems to be working pretty well, so here are the first three short videos I made of the process of putting it all back together. I'm being very, very careful not to scrape wires because I don't want to have to do this process again on this transformer core that I have super glued together. THAT would be a pain.
Transformer Coil part 1 - YouTube
Transformer Coil Part 2 - YouTube
Transformer Coil Part 3 - YouTube
Edit:
Finished it up, so here is the last video
Transformer Coil Part 4 - YouTube
David
thank you for shearing these videos .nice work,can't wait to see you did the test and see the results,i wish you sucsess
ehsan
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Matt,
Just finished my second reading of the Part 1 pdf you posted. Wanted to make sure I had everything down, including the steps, before I even began the build. I sincerely appreciate the time that must have taken to write up, not to mention all the time you spend on various builds and working your way through the puzzle.
I understand your frustration with folks. I remember when you first posted the basic circuit and I looked at it and knew I wanted to build it, but didn't really even understand the drawing. And I could not believe that people who did understand were not jumping all over it. So I just kept following the thread and reading what people posted and what you were working on. And now here we are, and I understand enough to build this without getting myself into trouble, which is always nice. All things come to those who wait.
My intention is to charge all my batteries and then run the light until I have a voltage drop on one or more battery to 12.2 volts. Then recharge all of them to full, hook up the switch, and run until I see a voltage drop on one or more batteries to the same 12.2 volts. This is AFTER I get it tuned according to directions you have posted. Is that what you would recommend to establish a baseline, or something different. We should all do it the same way so that our results are comparable. And I didn't see anything in the directions about that, so just throwing this out there. I do remember reading somewhere in the 124 pages that you suggested something along these lines to someone at one time.
For those of you who know nothing, read the dang thread from beginning to end a couple times. If that's too much a waste of your time, then you probably don't have the patience for this kinda stuff anyway. Matt's pdf of how to build the simple switch is at least 30 pages long, so you're going to have to do SOME reading anyhow. And that's just Part 1. LOL
DavidLast edited by Turion; 09-29-2011, 04:51 AM.
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All,
I ended up taking the transformer apart to wind it. I used the 36/36/44 lengths of wire as discussed previously. At the present time I have it about half reassembled and have been stopping from time to time to super glue it back together with tiny dots of super glue, and then clamping it so that it is squeezed together tightly. My whole process seems to be working pretty well, so here are the first three short videos I made of the process of putting it all back together. I'm being very, very careful not to scrape wires because I don't want to have to do this process again on this transformer core that I have super glued together. THAT would be a pain.
Transformer Coil part 1 - YouTube
Transformer Coil Part 2 - YouTube
Transformer Coil Part 3 - YouTube
Edit:
Finished it up, so here is the last video
Transformer Coil Part 4 - YouTube
DavidLast edited by Turion; 09-28-2011, 09:28 PM.
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Ash is Late as usual, ordering some parts and already stared your PDF Brother
Got Jeff's stuff underway also. What a ride guys.
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No he talking about a TS.Originally posted by ehsanco1062 View Posthej Bit's
what do you mean by the next level the Battery Swapper and Charger i hope .
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hej Bit'sOriginally posted by Bit's-n-Bytes View PostI second that! Matt knows what he is talking about. He is guiding you through this build. Once you have the TS up and running, he'll take it to the next level but you must follow his recommendations in order to get there.
Thanks
Bit's
what do you mean by the next level the Battery Swapper and Charger i hope .
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I second that! Matt knows what he is talking about. He is guiding you through this build. Once you have the TS up and running, he'll take it to the next level but you must follow his recommendations in order to get there.Originally posted by citfta View PostHi Sobakin,
I have been working with Matt and a lot of other people on this thread for I guess at least a couple of years. Matt has probably built more Tesla Switches than anyone I know. Several of us on this thread have built many different versions of the six switch TS. Matt is trying to save you a lot of wasted time and money by giving you a chance to learn how to build a TS that really works. I am sure that if Matt says he knows how to do that, he really does. I hope to get mine finished up tomorrow and get started testing this week. If you really have a lot of time to spend on this then I suggest you read this thread from the very beginning and you will learn a lot about what didn't work and also see some of Matt's earlier successes.
Carroll
Thanks
Bit's
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Ya they are all option and different names for the same thingOriginally posted by kcarring View PostExcuse my ignorance, the "Little One" in supplies reads:
- Simple B2 Stamp kit
Stamp Stack II
Stamp Learning Kit
KIT BASIC STAMP 2 OEM MODULE - 27291
Are these all different parts, or alternative choices? I found the Module 27291 Basic Stamp Kit for $29 CDN. Will that suffice? Sorry, I know nothing about PICs, but I do know how to program BASIC / C. Thanks
KIT BASIC STAMP 2 OEM MODULE - 27291
Thats about the best your going to do in price as well right now anyway.
As far as the code goes its just simple basic. If you can program at all it won't take you long before its talking back to you. LOL
CHeers
Matt
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- Simple B2 Stamp kit
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PICs
Excuse my ignorance, the "Little One" in supplies reads:
- Simple B2 Stamp kit
Stamp Stack II
Stamp Learning Kit
KIT BASIC STAMP 2 OEM MODULE - 27291
Are these all different parts, or alternative choices? I found the Module 27291 Basic Stamp Kit for $29 CDN. Will that suffice? Sorry, I know nothing about PICs, but I do know how to program BASIC / C. Thanks
Leave a comment:
- Simple B2 Stamp kit
Leave a comment: