Use for the Tesla Switch

[garrypm]

Hi Ren,

Thanks for the post

I have just switched out the pair of MJE13007's where one was getting warmer
than all the others - no change.

Swapped the pins from the arduino and found the heat followed the pin.
Change the code to use pin 12 instead of 11 - no difference.

Changed the code to LOW 12 & HIGH 10 wait then
LOW 10 & HIGH 12
thinking my heat was caused by both pins HIGH for that very short moment
between instructions - no change.

I am at this moment, going back over the wiring again.

Let you guys know soon enough.

Are we all expecting the TOP two batteries to charge ?

Thanks, Garry

p.s. at work today I had to replace a transformer in a coffee machine. The
primary was open circuit. Have delaminated it and begun winding to have another
transformer to compare - 2" x 2" x 1.5"

Sorry Ren, the change to go to MILLI instead of MICRO is simply use "delay" not "delaymicroseconds"

[ren]

Hi,

I can confirm that I am getting much better output with a fresh set of batteries.

A couple of questions remain -

1. From Matt's document, we see mention of the 400Hz switch (news article)
and with my meter measuring AC from the secondary (9.8v), the meter
shows approximately 200Hz if I set the delay in the Arduino to 2000us. To
get 400Hz at the output, I need to reduce the delay to 1000us or there abouts.
I Know my maths are a bit rusty but, if we set a pin high then wait 1000us
and then set the pin low and wait another 1000us then repeat, the cycle
would be 1/period = 1/2000us = 500Hz
At 2000us, 1/4000us = 250hz.
This is a bit confusing because the STAMP guys use PULSEOUT and
the ARDUINO guys must set High, wait, then set low and wait again.

Can anyone clarigy this for me?

2. One transistor from the pair of ONLY one set is getting warmer than the
oher three (Matt's darlington schematic). Should I just replace the transistor
(MJE13007) or is this somewhat expected ?

Thanks, Garry

p.s. anyone getting better than expected results and can I ask what size 12v
bulb are you guys using - mine is a 5 watt.

'

Hi Gary.

I got my switch up and running. The power transfer is pretty lame, but my transformer is just something I threw together. The principle is there. Im switching in micro seconds (need to read up on the simple change to millisec) at the moment I switch on for 8 and off for 1. I believe the SSR I am using has a 1 microsecond switch off time or less. But I think others are using no "off time" at all.

One thing I did do to make this thing snort was short the output cap with a 50 watt halogen. I could hear the thing load down, it dropped to 1v on the cap and the one battery I have charging at the moment shot up in voltage quite quickly. Im wondering if one couldnt use a bunch of high wattage LEDs in parallel and load the thing down to 3v? Anyway, I will be pulling the transformer off and tinkering with that now.

Regards

[citfta]

Hi Ehsan,

Well there are several things that you can play with. You are restricting your thinking too much. For instance no one said you had to use a 10 watt load. Maybe a 12 watt load would work better. Maybe a pulseout of 8000 and 8000 would work better or maybe 4000 and 4025. You need to make a chart and try different loads and pulsing times and look for the best charging and best voltage on the load. Then try to find a compromise between the two. Are you putting a delay between pulses? On mine it works best with no delay other than what is caused by the execution of the code. It also works best with both pulses the same. Good luck.

Carroll

[garrypm]

Guys,

Thanks so much for the replies.

I will double check my wiring and change out the one transistor that is getting
warmer than the others.

Also, getting another 5watt bulb and paralleling the two may help show system
performance in a more timely manner.


To keep things in perspective, the tranfomer used measured 2" x 1.75" x 1.5".
The wire used is 0.8m (20BS) and the primaries are 5 meters and the secondary
is 6.25 meters.

Thanks, Garry

[LutherG]

loosely slip a small pair of vise grip pliers around the MJE13007 (or MJL21194) and gingerly screw it tight for a snug fit. It's fast to do and you'd be surprised how well it works. That's all I can think of for now.
Let's keep up the enthusiasm so we can make this a success and help each other with the 'Big One'! --Dennis

Hi Dennis,

There is an ADC chip at parallax that is part of the Stampworks Experimenter Kit - so it should work with your stamp.

Look here:

ADC0831 8-bit A/D Converter DIP

I'll be getting one of these for my stamp. I also ordered a couple of the TI MSP430 Launchpad boards... They're just so inexpensive and run on so little current I've got to give them a try as well... I saw a video on youtube of a guy running one on 3 grapes...

Just wanted to let you know... and yes - agreed - let's keep the enthusiasm going and get this working!

best regards,

Luther

[ehsanco1062]

[dnewkirk]

I Know my maths are a bit rusty but, if we set a pin high then wait 1000us and then set the pin low and wait another 1000us then repeat, the cycle would be 1/period = 1/2000us = 500Hz
At 2000us, 1/4000us = 250hz.
This is a bit confusing because the STAMP guys use PULSEOUT and the ARDUINO guys must set High, wait, then set low and wait again.

2. One transistor from the pair of ONLY one set is getting warmer than the
oher three (Matt's darlington schematic). Should I just replace the transistor
(MJE13007) or is this somewhat expected ?
p.s. anyone getting better than expected results and can I ask what size 12v
bulb are you guys using - mine is a 5 watt.

loosely slip a small pair of vise grip pliers around the MJE13007 (or MJL21194) and gingerly screw it tight for a snug fit. It's fast to do and you'd be surprised how well it works. That's all I can think of for now.
Let's keep up the enthusiasm so we can make this a success and help each other with the 'Big One'! --Dennis

[citfta]

Hi John,

I do not use proto boards for my builds. They are notorious for getting bad connections and causing circuits to not work. I use perboard. You can get it at Radio Shack in several sizes. I get the kind that has .1 inch spacing between the holes. Most transistors like the TO 220 style have the pins on .1 spacing already. I just mount the parts by putting the pins through the holes in the perboard and bending them over to make my connections. I just find a convenient layout for my parts so that I can connect them together with as few jumpers as possible. If you do a little planning with your layout of parts you can usually just bend the pins on the bottom side of the board and solder them to one another. You will probably need a few jumpers but not many if you plan carefully. Use sockets for your IC chips like the opto couplers. You can easily damage a chip while trying to solder to them. You may still have to drill a new hole here or there depending on the components you are using. And you may have to enlarge a hole for some parts that have larger than normal leads.

The output leads go to the AC side of the bridge rectifier and the DC side of the rectifier goes to the cap and the load is connected to the plus and minus of the cap.

I think if you use car batteries on the small switch you may have a hard time seeing what is going on. I am using some lawn and garden tractor size batteries on my small switch and that seems to be about right to give me some good run times and still let me see what is going on with them.

@ Garry, I am not familiar with the Arduino. I am using the picaxe 18x. I can tell you a couple of things though. A cycle or hertz is one complete set of pulses. In other words you pulse one side and then the other and that is one cycle. You do not want a pause between pulses. You will get some delay just from the program running. And that delay time needs to be as close to the same for each pulse for best results. There is an earlier discussion a few pages back for how to get the delays the same. I may have misunderstood from your description but it sounded like you were putting a delay between the pulses. Also you do not need to try and get an exact frequency based on what someone else has done. Follow Matt's instructions for tuning to get the best output and charging of your top batteries. Everyones build is a little different so the best frequency will be too.

I am using a 6 watt bulb in my TS so you are pretty close. You may have one transistor getting warmer than another for a couple of reasons. If one battery bank is charged up more than the other then it may be working harder. You could have something in the circuit not quite right somewhere or maybe a weak transistor. If it is only getting a little warmer and not hot then I wouldn't be concerned about it.

Later, Carroll

[jpolakow]

Mounting circuit components

Hi Caroll,
I have a couple electronics questions for you if you don't mind. I'm going to school for EE at CalPoly so I understand circuit theory, however my technical, "hands on" electronics skills are weak. So here are a few questions I have building the switch.
1. I have a breadboard and a few other "prototyping" boards but none of them seem to fit the pin spacing of the capacitors, diodes, or transistors. Is there a special socket you are supposed to buy for these components to fit into? Or are you supposed to drill holes for the components in the proto board? Or do you design a pcb for the application?
2. I reviewed the documentation and it seems the output winding of the transformer that is 25% longer goes to the rectifier and then to the load. Is this correct? I want to make sure before I start soldering stuff up.
3. My first build is the small switch. I am planning on building the big switch as well. I'm going to need car batteries for the big switch, so I'm going to need to get them eventually anyway, would they work with the small switch as well? I mean I realize its a battery so it will work, but the smaller switch uses a smaller load- possibly too small a load to effectively reduce the voltage on the batteries for tuning purposes?
4. On the back of the SSR and MJL21194 I see a heat conducting pad on the back. Is it neccesary to heat sink these components?

Thankyou very much for your assistance. This is probably common knowledge for some people but I'm kind of an electronics newb! I am taking many pictures and will document my build so others may have an easier path to follow. Have a good day!

John

[garrypm]

Hi,

I can confirm that I am getting much better output with a fresh set of batteries.

A couple of questions remain -

1. From Matt's document, we see mention of the 400Hz switch (news article)
and with my meter measuring AC from the secondary (9.8v), the meter
shows approximately 200Hz if I set the delay in the Arduino to 2000us. To
get 400Hz at the output, I need to reduce the delay to 1000us or there abouts.
I Know my maths are a bit rusty but, if we set a pin high then wait 1000us
and then set the pin low and wait another 1000us then repeat, the cycle
would be 1/period = 1/2000us = 500Hz
At 2000us, 1/4000us = 250hz.
This is a bit confusing because the STAMP guys use PULSEOUT and
the ARDUINO guys must set High, wait, then set low and wait again.

Can anyone clarigy this for me?

2. One transistor from the pair of ONLY one set is getting warmer than the
oher three (Matt's darlington schematic). Should I just replace the transistor
(MJE13007) or is this somewhat expected ?

Thanks, Garry

p.s. anyone getting better than expected results and can I ask what size 12v
bulb are you guys using - mine is a 5 watt.

[citfta]

Hi gang,

I have talked to Matt and he is ok with me trying to help those of you who are sincerely trying to follow his PDF plans for building his version of the TS. I realize a lot of you do not have much or any electronics experience. IF you are trying to build Matt's TS then I am willing to help with the electronics. If you think you know more than Matt about building a TS then you are on your own. If you go back to the beginning of this thread you will see that Matt has been at this for a long time. Study the PDF Matt made. Then if you have questions about how something gets hooked up ask and I'll try to help if I can. Most of your questions have already been answered in the last several pages of this thread. I only have time to check in here a few times a day so don't expect an immediate answer to your questions. I have over 50 years experience in electronics but I can still make mistakes or typos just like anyone else. You are totally responsible for your own safety as I can not be there to make sure you don't do something stupid. Use fuses as I described in an earlier post.

Carroll

[gandyman]

Hmzz I have blow up my Propeller chip, with a faulty power supply...

Have order a few new ones ad Paraalax.... SIG

[LutherG]

You just need a USB to serial cable.
Sabrent 1 Ft USB 2.0 to Serial DB9 Adapter w/Male Thumbscrews at TigerDirect.com

You do not want to pull a load from the the hot side of the batteries. Adds to many complications.


@ALL

Have a good one its been a nice ride I might pop in from time to time. Remember look for the truth. Believe what it tells you.

Matt.

Man, I sure am bummed to see this post Matt... I hope you do visit and often. I appreciate all you've shared with us. I'll be posting my results soon. I've got my Stamp on order as of Friday so I should get it by the end of the week.

Thanks again for all the hard work you put in to share your findings with us and I hope you reconsider and stick around a little longer... but if not, I wish you all the very best.



Luther

[Matthew Jones]

You just need a USB to serial cable.
Sabrent 1 Ft USB 2.0 to Serial DB9 Adapter w/Male Thumbscrews at TigerDirect.com

You do not want to pull a load from the the hot side of the batteries. Adds to many complications.


@ALL

Have a good one its been a nice ride I might pop in from time to time. Remember look for the truth. Believe what it tells you.

Matt.

[hiops]

Hi, Matt and all! I got my parcel from digikey on Friday with small transformer and Basic Stamp 2E, took apart the transformer already and ready to rewind it, but haven't got #20 wire yet.
The Stamp kit comes without cable, can anyone give the part # for it on digikey or mouser, meanwhile I'm going to solder it.
One more question to Matt: can we insert transformer into the top wire between positives of Bat1 and Bat3, that way we need only one primary wound? We could use a bigger wire with that, b/c we need only two wounds here.