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Use for the Tesla Switch

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  • Rl2003
    replied
    Up N Running

    It turn out, nothing is wrong.. at least not that I've found.
    Here is a short video of the switch running with the small 20W load.
    It really helps to have a way to re-program as it's all hooked up. I have
    already been trying different codes.

    I used one of Bit's boards he designed and connected to outputs
    0,1 without making any other changes to the board. Want to keep it
    99% un-modified.
    So far it works as Matt had said..I would like it make some other transformers
    to test with this, now that I know it's working right.

    VIDEO0039 - YouTube

    Voltages after 1 hr 15 min. as follows/ taken while switch was under load.
    Start Finish
    Batt 1 12.56 12.51v
    Batt2 12.41 12.11v
    Batt3 12.55 12.23v
    Batt4 12.45 11.95v
    It's a start..It can only get better from here.

    Mark

    Leave a comment:


  • Rl2003
    replied
    Ok,
    I have tested the board and I have the two batteries (1 and 2) and
    (3 and 4) that give me the 24volts, when testing each side,
    But only when the MJL..94's are not connected to the curcuit.
    When I connect the 94's the volts jump to 24+
    and then slowly drop to 20 or so volts before the next pulse.
    I checked and rechecked and check and rechecked the circuit. I also checked
    the pulses to the MJL's and every thing looks right, and the 94's are good..
    Has anyone come across this?

    Mark

    Leave a comment:


  • Rl2003
    replied
    Originally posted by Bit's-n-Bytes View Post
    Totally different setup. Opto's are configured different ways for different reasons. If your setup uses the tranny's in a Sziklai pair like the illustration in the previous link connect your opto just like it shows and you'll be fine.

    Thanks

    Bit's
    Ok Bits,
    I just have to fip the two and I should be good to Go..
    I have reprogramed the pic for now and hope to see some
    results shortly.
    Mark

    Leave a comment:


  • Bit's-n-Bytes
    replied
    Originally posted by Rl2003 View Post
    Thanks Carroll,
    After I posted I thought that maybe it, but I am still learning the Electronic, Schematic's and stuff as I go. I am a Visual learner.. after a while I will
    remember stuff like that. I will have to flip the wires to the 4-5 pins.

    Bits, So please explain why you have your board the opposite, or at least the schematic (rev 2.2.3) is?
    I am not questioning your method just trying to learn the differences.

    Mark
    Totally different setup. Opto's are configured different ways for different reasons. If your setup uses the tranny's in a Sziklai pair like the illustration in the previous link connect your opto just like it shows and you'll be fine.

    Thanks

    Bit's

    Leave a comment:


  • Rl2003
    replied
    Originally posted by citfta View Post
    Hi Mark,

    That is the same circuit I have built. You are correct Matt shows it with pin 4 going to ground and pin 5 going to the base of the MJL 21193. The reason this seems backward to you is because he is using the opto to control a PNP transistor instead of a NPN. Matt's drawing is correct.

    Carroll

    PS Nice looking board.
    Thanks Carroll,
    After I posted I thought that maybe it, but I am still learning the Electronic, Schematic's and stuff as I go. I am a Visual learner.. after a while I will
    remember stuff like that. I will have to flip the wires to the 4-5 pins.

    Bits, So please explain why you have your board the opposite, or at least the schematic (rev 2.2.3) is?
    I am not questioning your method just trying to learn the differences.

    Mark

    Leave a comment:


  • citfta
    replied
    Hi Mark,

    That is the same circuit I have built. You are correct Matt shows it with pin 4 going to ground and pin 5 going to the base of the MJL 21193. The reason this seems backward to you is because he is using the opto to control a PNP transistor instead of a NPN. Matt's drawing is correct.

    Carroll

    PS Nice looking board.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rl2003
    replied
    MJL's 93's and 94's Bits.
    Mark

    Leave a comment:


  • lamare
    replied
    Benitez patents

    You guys may want to check out these patents, which are very similar to the Tesla switch:

    Directory contents of /pdf/Patents/Benitez/

    Remember that old-school rectifiers are very similar to electrolytic capacitors. See my article at pes:
    Article:Free Electric Energy in Theory and Practice - PESWiki

    The part on the rectifiers is the last part on the pierce on Puharich.

    what I think is particularly interesting on Benitez is how he configured his transformers. That may give you some ideas to consider.
    Last edited by lamare; 10-28-2011, 04:22 PM. Reason: added link

    Leave a comment:


  • Bit's-n-Bytes
    replied
    Originally posted by Rl2003 View Post
    Hey all,
    I was wiring up a little board to run this Transfomer and on page 25
    of Matts Pdf (fig. 7a) it seems that the opti is shown with pin 5 going
    to the base and pin 4 to ground. Is this correct, because I have used
    opti's the other way around? This is the last thing I need to do
    before firing this up and testing it. I am sure it was just the way he
    drew it out, but I thought I would ask anyway.

    Here is a picture of my setup, although I could not program the chip directly
    to the board so I have modified Bit's PIC pulsinator to do that from pins
    0-3 outputs. I hope it works I want to try a few different transformer I have
    around.
    Mark
    Mark, are you using the MJL's or FET's?




    Bit's
    Last edited by Bit's-n-Bytes; 10-28-2011, 04:13 PM. Reason: more info

    Leave a comment:


  • Rl2003
    replied
    Opti schematic

    Hey all,
    I was wiring up a little board to run this Transfomer and on page 25
    of Matts Pdf (fig. 7a) it seems that the opti is shown with pin 5 going
    to the base and pin 4 to ground. Is this correct, because I have used
    opti's the other way around? This is the last thing I need to do
    before firing this up and testing it. I am sure it was just the way he
    drew it out, but I thought I would ask anyway.

    Here is a picture of my setup, although I could not program the chip directly
    to the board so I have modified Bit's PIC pulsinator to do that from pins
    0-3 outputs. I hope it works I want to try a few different transformer I have
    around.
    Mark
    Last edited by Rl2003; 12-10-2013, 03:31 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • ehsanco1062
    replied
    Originally posted by citfta View Post
    Hi Ehsan,

    You may have a weak battery on one side. I had one that didn't have the power to deliver the punch needed to charge the top battery. Swap the bottom batteries and see if the other side now charges. Then if that doesn't show anything try swapping the top batteries.

    Carroll
    Hi Carroll

    I always swapping the batteries and beside I bought the batteries
    All new three weeks ago and I can charge only one battery just by
    Changing the pulses I can charge the rift or the the left battery
    So I don't think that there is aweek battery.and I fond with 13 w load I canget voltage across the load 12.70v but the light is not so bright.

    Thanks Carroll
    Ehsan

    Leave a comment:


  • garrypm
    replied
    @Ren,

    Avoid using the program I had alluded too for easy timing adjustments.

    This is what was giving me very uneven pusling and excess heating on the
    side that was last driven before my Arduino had to go through the rest of the code.

    Back to simple -

    void setup() {
    // initialize the digital pin as an output.

    pinMode(10, OUTPUT);
    pinMode(12, OUTPUT);
    }

    void loop() {

    digitalWrite(12, LOW);
    digitalWrite(10, HIGH);
    delayMicroseconds(2000); // wait for a bit

    digitalWrite(10, LOW);
    digitalWrite(12, HIGH);
    delayMicroseconds(2000); // wait for another bit
    }


    and the scope now shows a very even duty cycle.

    Sorry if I led you up the garden path though I will sit down and write some
    decent code that we can use to adjust on the run.

    Thanks, Garry

    Leave a comment:


  • citfta
    replied
    Hi Ehsan,

    You may have a weak battery on one side. I had one that didn't have the power to deliver the punch needed to charge the top battery. Swap the bottom batteries and see if the other side now charges. Then if that doesn't show anything try swapping the top batteries.

    Carroll

    Leave a comment:


  • ehsanco1062
    replied
    Originally posted by citfta View Post
    Hi Ehsan,

    Well there are several things that you can play with. You are restricting your thinking too much. For instance no one said you had to use a 10 watt load. Maybe a 12 watt load would work better. Maybe a pulseout of 8000 and 8000 would work better or maybe 4000 and 4025. You need to make a chart and try different loads and pulsing times and look for the best charging and best voltage on the load. Then try to find a compromise between the two. Are you putting a delay between pulses? On mine it works best with no delay other than what is caused by the execution of the code. It also works best with both pulses the same. Good luck.

    Carroll

    Leave a comment:


  • garrypm
    replied
    Ok, one step closer.

    The heat follows the pin from the arduino and as Ren said, one of the top
    batteries charges and in my setup the other drops.

    Thinking to remove all the handy code to adjust on the run and go back to
    simple switching. Lot more work to adjust timing but I need to know why
    the one side does what it is doing.

    Garry

    Leave a comment:

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