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Lockridge Device - Peter Lindemann

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  • wantomake
    replied
    Hello again Hiwater,
    I remember building the ufo Politics smaller dc motors some years ago. That motor was total surprise to me. One set of brushes was a motor end, the other was generator end.
    Also the starter/generator on the EZ Go golf cart got me going somewhat in trying different experiments with coils and extra brushes.

    Anyway just chatting.
    Wantomake

    Leave a comment:


  • Hiwater
    replied
    Yes I have lots of parts laying around also. I am this winter working on a DC model. Comparing it to AC. I run the figures from the numbers sugested on the capacitor. Those numbers coincide with the numbers in amps to run this device on DC. Trial and error method. Nothing concrete. Good to hear from you again.

    Leave a comment:


  • wantomake
    replied
    Hey Hiwater,
    I am building lithium battery packs these days for solar storage. Haven't tried anything with the generators for a long time. Parts are laying around the shop from the Lockridge device project but I've not touched any of it.
    wantomake
    ​​​​​

    Leave a comment:


  • Hiwater
    replied
    Powerpack. If you think about it what was a generator designed to do . Either 6 or 12 volt. Run 2 head lamps and a heater motor, That the basis of the old style generators..Through the brushes switching on the commutator the collapse of the magnetic feild goes back in to all the other windings of the armature and cant be collected there. So i believe the switching or pulsing unit was done outside of the case with one of the wires of the tri coil grounded to the case and the other wire to one of the brushes doing the switching. The tri coil acts like a capacitor at that point and removes the arc from the switching brushes at that point . Which in turn raises the voltage through the other windings on the tri coil. This is still a work in progress. Still kicking around ideas.

    Leave a comment:


  • wantomake
    replied
    Power pack,
    Some of us spent much resources on this idea and I personally lost interest after all the effort. I agree with your post things aren’t the same as during that time period. Therefore I’m into other projects at this time.
    wantomake

    Leave a comment:


  • Power Packaging
    replied
    The curiosity has been overwhelming, regarding has anyone in this world to this date, finally design a functioning machine that actually mimics what that German Engineer put together and Sgt Lockridge found? Forget what Lindemann/Bedini attempted to "think" what it does, but look at those old pictures and then you'd conclude this is not a 230VAC machine. The Armature of a 6VDC Bosch Generator can only produce up to 10+VDC. You have to go back in time and understand what those materials were at the time. Those metals making up the Armature, the Stator, the Mag Wire, all those materials we take for granted in 2021. But not available in the 1940's. Who has done this?

    Leave a comment:


  • HansKammler
    replied
    witches all over the world...

    sad. really. But a wife is usually no inventor.
    maybe i face same faith in the future when I follow my research ...
    *thinking...*

    Leave a comment:


  • tachyoncatcher
    replied
    Originally posted by mbrownn View Post
    all my equipment was taken (no conspiracy. I got a divorce).
    Wow! Take a man's tools. What a witch.

    Leave a comment:


  • mbrownn
    replied
    Originally posted by HansKammler View Post
    canīt resist to write again, just short:
    how many turns you do on 1 winding on your armature ?
    It was a long time ago when I wound that armature, I think it was 30. It ran on 3 to 4 volts at 4 amps. 4 amps was the limit on my variac. On a more recent armature there was only 2 turns per winding and 6 turns on the powered field winding. Obviously the current was huge and too big for my meters. This was based on a yanmar starter motor. I am no longer in possession of these devices so I cant give you any new pictures.

    Originally posted by HansKammler View Post
    you wind a wire from contactsegment to the back iron core many times and
    return 180 degr. on the segment vis a vis ?
    If I understand you, yes. From one segment, round 90 degrees to the first slot on the armature. Then wind a turn around the left side of the shaft to the slot 180 degrees from the first, the next turn is around the right side of the shaft and so on until the slot is full. Then pas the wire to the commutator segment opposite the first

    Originally posted by HansKammler View Post
    and there are not 4 blanks in the photo, you did blank every 2nd !!
    (is this photo obsolete ?)

    cheers
    Correct, The small armature was my first attempt and like an idiot I did not realise that leaving only one segment blank would give no off time. This worked out well for the MADMAG but did not give as strong transformer actions as I wanted. So to simulate this I fed the motor with Half wave rectified AC and got interesting results. Later I replaced the carbon brushes with spring steel (actually razor blades). The next motor was a starter motor and I was working on getting the sweep angle correct when all my equipment was taken (no conspiracy. I got a divorce). At this point with no equipment, I decided to try and get people interested in my work so the development could continue.That was about 3 years ago. I will be ready to start building again in the next few months.

    Leave a comment:


  • HansKammler
    replied
    canīt resist to write again, just short:
    how many turns you do on 1 winding on your armature ?
    canīt see this on the picture.
    you wind a wire from contactsegment to the back iron core many times and
    return 180 degr. on the segment vis a vis ?

    and there are not 4 blanks in the photo, you did blank every 2nd !!
    (is this photo obsolete ?)

    cheers

    Leave a comment:


  • mbrownn
    replied
    Originally posted by HansKammler View Post
    thank you mbrown for your explanations.
    This is a whole new concept and I have to check how can I do all
    this mechanical work at home. With electronics this is more easier.

    Interesting you do a mechanical NE555 oscillator with your 4 blank armature.
    Do you have a photo of your armature (actual) so I can figure out
    how you wire it (wave or straight) I never wire a motor in my life.
    When I buy the Bosch generator I my first thought was, **** how this dirty thing works. real Hard (!) ware

    I have fear to destruct my armature if I begin to unsolder the windings.
    But wire to wire it should work


    cheers,

    H.
    Sure, this was the one I had the best results with.
    http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...r-img_0007-jpg
    http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...r-img_0029-jpg
    http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...r-img_0028-jpg
    The hardest part is getting the old windings out as they are usually held in with epoxy. I used a hack saw to cut the windings off at each end and then a punch to knock them out.
    This video will help you with the wind, the only difference is I connected to commutator segments at 90 degrees do that i did not have to move the brush holders that were already there. http://www.energeticforum.com/redire...lpage%23t%3D99

    Leave a comment:


  • HansKammler
    replied
    thank you mbrown for your explanations.
    This is a whole new concept and I have to check how can I do all
    this mechanical work at home. With electronics this is more easier.

    Interesting you do a mechanical NE555 oscillator with your 4 blank armature.
    Do you have a photo of your armature (actual) so I can figure out
    how you wire it (wave or straight) I never wire a motor in my life.
    When I buy the Bosch generator I my first thought was, **** how this dirty thing works. real Hard (!) ware

    I have fear to destruct my armature if I begin to unsolder the windings.
    But wire to wire it should work


    cheers,

    H.

    Leave a comment:


  • mbrownn
    replied
    Originally posted by HansKammler View Post
    thank you for your explanations.
    1,

    I realize at the "interesting motor" that you solder not every plate
    on the armature with a coil because you will reduce the "brushfire" by
    switching to the next segment. OK

    so i think I can place gluefilm (isolationtape) on every 2nd plate(segment)
    of the armature right ?
    With that motor we are avoiding transformer actions so every segment would be fine, remember this came as a result of my research so I left options to make it what we are talking about now. I would recommend you start with only one coil on the armature, this makes it much easier for setting up the motoring function. After we have the motoring function set up and tested, we can add extra coils.

    What I am thinking right now is 4 blank segments between each coil. this will allow a full charge and discharge of the armature before the next coil is charged, but this may change, as I'm still working on it.
    Originally posted by HansKammler View Post
    2,

    but then I realize to run your setup I have to rewind , resolder all segments
    to set the wire lap in a 90 degree formation. OK
    a lot of work for me to rebuild the commutator. OK this work have to be done.
    The 90 degree setup on the armature is for two reasons

    1) so that the commutator will line up with existing brush positions
    2) It keeps the wires close to the shaft preventing them getting caught in the brushes.

    Nothing special, just practical.

    Originally posted by HansKammler View Post
    3, Do you really think you are fast enough to make contact with the 2nd set of "take energy" brushes when the first set of "energizing" brushes will
    leave the segment ?
    I donīt think you have the time, coz soon you are lost contact you will get the kickback and this kickback can fly to the brushes if there are in the air.

    so the only logic is to put the 2nd brushes to the same segment, before
    the 1st brushes leave it ! True ??
    Exactly. The contact is made slightly before the other brush disengages. I did this while the armature was running, slowly moving it until the arcing reduced.

    The way I set up the MADMAG, the overlap can be greater.

    Going back to the commutator, I had one blank between each coil, this was great for the MADMAG, but didn’t seem so good to get the transformer actions like we want in this device. In the MADMAG it gives us one coil charging and one coil discharging at the same time, there is no off time to speak of.

    For this device, by having brushes the same width as the commutator segments and 4 blank segments between each coil, we will have a 50% on time and 50% off. This requirement makes an ideal armature to have an even number of slots, the commutator ideally would have double the number of segments as there is slots, and that number be divisible by 5 ie 10, 20, 30 etc. This isn’t proven yet, but is what I am working on now.

    Leave a comment:


  • HansKammler
    replied
    Brush and Fire

    thank you for your explanations.
    1,

    I realize at the "interesting motor" that you solder not every plate
    on the armature with a coil because you will reduce the "brushfire" by
    switching to the next segment. OK

    so i think I can place gluefilm (isolationtape) on every 2nd plate(segment)
    of the armature right ?
    2,

    but then I realize to run your setup I have to rewind , resolder all segments
    to set the wire lap in a 90 degree formation. OK
    a lot of work for me to rebuild the commutator. OK this work have to be done.

    3, Do you really think you are fast enough to make contact with the 2nd set of "take energy" brushes when the first set of "energizing" brushes will
    leave the segment ?
    I donīt think you have the time, coz soon you are lost contact you will get the kickback and this kickback can fly to the brushes if there are in the air.

    so the only logic is to put the 2nd brushes to the same segment, before
    the 1st brushes leave it ! True ??

    Leave a comment:


  • mbrownn
    replied
    For my MADMAG (interesting Motor) we may be able to use off the shelf field coils and get reasonable performance. For the self runner, if it is possible and I believe it is, we will need all the parts to be matched to get optimum performance, but what those specifications are remains to be seen.

    If one of the functions of the trifilar coil is impedance matching, this may help us, but I don’t think it is going to be that easy.

    Leave a comment:

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