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Motor Generators

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  • Originally posted by lotec View Post
    Here are some other ways a possible delay might be created.

    1. For a relatively low voltage system. Split the two legs of the output coil into two, then hook them up to a relay. Not a great option because some conducting of the generator coils would be needed to switch on the relay, before the main discharge.

    What does a relay do in #1, split which legs? Are you assuming ppl
    already know what you are thinking? Plz explain your way of delay.


    • Hi Bro Mikey,
      Caught your videos, nice work.
      Yes I could have explained that a lot better. This schematic might help. The ideas I posted where speculative at best, and not tested by me yet.
      The context here is trying to use generator coils as motor coils.

      The kind of delay I was proposing, is preventing the generator coils from conducting immediately at the beginning of the induction cycle. The hope here is that while they don't conduct they are not producing a magnetic field that opposes the rotor on it's approach to TDC, and at that time, the cores might be polarized for attraction.

      Then at some point in the induction cycle somewhere Between 0v and the peak of the first sine, depending on the coils inductance value relative to the rotor speed, the discharge happens. If it happens at just the right time while the core is reversing polarity to repulsion, it might neutralize the attraction at TCD and maybe even provides a push as it goes past.

      The relay idea is a crude one to be sure, and it's not tunable, so the time taken to turn itself on is what creates the delay. If the effect were to happen at all, the relay coil would need to have relatively small inductance compared to the gen coil and the rotor would have to be going at just the right speed. I said it wasn't a great option because the coils would have to conduct enough to turn the relay on to make the intended discharge.

      All the options where designed to do the same thing, just using different methods. In hinesight I can also see a problem with the third option, and think it would work better with a Hall Effect Sensor used in a similar way to how they are in motors. The center of the discharge would be determined by the position of the sensor, and the duration of the shot either side of the center could controlled electronically with the trimpots. The circuit might look something like this, but Ive only ever used it to switch conventional motor coils, and gets some serious heat issues if I try to switch much more than 4 amps or so.

      Possibly more useful for people who's machines can't rotate fast enough to get their coils into the zone. A problem you don't seem to have using your methods. I'm looking forward to see what happens next.

      Attached Files


      • Yes shorting or discharging can produce the anti-lenz effect
        while collecting energy back thru that relay switching.

        Now I understand your goal.


        • Originally posted by lotec View Post
          Hi Alex,
          Thanks for the comments on the diagram. As far as whats out there on the network, I don't know, I only visit this site for alternate energy, I figure that most of the things out there will find their way here sooner or later.

          The dual rotor test bed was a project I started working on and it was going to be used to test a few different inductors, One of which is a distant cousin of the Faraday's homo-polar generator, where the hope was it would output four times the voltage, and it would be AC. That project is on hold for now until I get access to better tools like drop saws and drill presses,

          I have to ask, There is this guy called Alex, It looks like he is the inspiration for SkyWatchers latest thread, and also the above diagram, and also your name is Alex.
          Are you that Alex?
          Hello lotec
          thanks for the reply,
          for the gentleman that you ask I am not that Alex, that man has several videos and very interesting projects, and announces his advances,
          I am another user, very interested in the new generation of energy
          of the coil project that shows what I'm going to do and I'll comment on the advances
          see you soon


          • Originally posted by Turion
            Why bother with all the electronics when you can get a coil to speed up under load simply by winding it correctly? You have several variables in your ideas you have not even worked out yet that will affect success. And NONE of it has been tested to see if it even works. Why not just do something we already KNOW works? If you want a no brain absolute solution to getting your coil right, and can't be bothered to build the one I have shown already working, just add a capacitor to a coil like they used to do in the good old days to increase its capacitance. A variable cap would be best. Adjust it util the coil speeds up under load. Done.
            Thanks Turion,
            When you put it that way, why not indeed. The easiest solution is often the best and I like easy. That will be one of the first things I try when I get up and running.



            • [VIDEO]watch?v=jUmD0td5NdI&t=33s[/VIDEO]
              Author IVCHENKO, demonstrates and tells about the new engine with energy recovery. Energy recovery is displayed on the light bulb for demonstration. He claims. that by weight they managed to get 10 kW with a 3 kW motor without abnormal heating.


              • Originally posted by Rakarskiy View Post
                Author IVCHENKO, demonstrates and tells about the new engine with energy recovery. Energy recovery is displayed on the light bulb for demonstration. He claims. that by weight they managed to get 10 kW with a 3 kW motor without abnormal heating.
                Looks like a 4sale sign video. Me no Russian, me English, me not buy
                me build.


                • Originally posted by Turion
                  In order to produce electricity in what we call a generator you must turn the rotor that has magnets on it past the coils.

                  if you have enough coils on your generator, your motor will draw so many amps you will be able to roast marshmallows over the flames.

                  Last problem is the heat generated by the coil cores. Change core material, figure out a way to transfer or dissipate the heat. Water works.
                  Even a washing machine motor rated at 1100watts has a cooling
                  mechanism built right into the rotor. They are called "FINS" or we will
                  call them blades/paddles that move the hot air out every second of
                  operation also drawing in cool air.

                  Motors rated at 2500 watts such as your would certainly need something
                  to dissipate normal heat build up. Even the smallest fan would help or
                  in this case a heat sink on each core since these motors are not like a
                  conventional one where all core poles are connected together on a single
                  piece of iron.

                  I was thinking of making the core 2" longer so it will extend out the back
                  of the coil away from the rotating apparatus where an aluminum sink
                  could be installed. I am afraid that will alter the coils field and change
                  production, have not tried it.


                  • You need to be able to put your hand on the coils for a few seconds
                    without loosing any skin, I am sure you know this. Running 200 degree
                    wire at 125-140 degrees

                    All motors left without cooling will eventually burst into flames from the
                    constant build up of excess heat, it's gotta go. Anything over 100 watts.

                    Last edited by BroMikey; 05-23-2019, 01:02 AM.


                    • All true I should have been more clear on these other types of motors
                      and generators with open cages. There are many many motor types
                      and generators and so i was only generalizing about motors like
                      a washing machine motor.

                      Some are designed with a closed cage like the scooter motors and one
                      motor I have is water tight for boat trolling. You are right 100 watts is
                      a bad example.

                      I am thinking how generators are made for backup power and they are
                      made to continuously expel heat. A motor designed to run 30 amps with a
                      closed cage operating at under half capacity of course will never get hot.

                      I thought you were running all north poles? And it gets hot, right? So
                      running N S N S is the same as the all north in this case, depending.

                      Generally, motors that run an air compressor or an electric lawnmower
                      or even an egg beater have cooling fins. Treadmill motors that i have
                      are PMM but 2 poles have fans. Golf cart motors run on DC and they
                      have ports and fins.

                      To me motors are generators. I can generator electricity with any motor
                      you own or can think of. All you do is take any motor you want to
                      convert to a generator, take the 2 wires that you normally connect
                      to the wall sock (induction type for instance) put 12vdc across them
                      for 5 seconds doing that 10 to 20 times.

                      Now your motor has enough residual magnetism stored in the core
                      material to start the generating process. Now connect a 50uf oil filled
                      cap across the same terminals, turn the shaft at 1800 rpm's which is
                      50 rpm's faster than the 1750 rpm that it is rated for and you will
                      be generating. The output is 90%, I built one here years ago. I used
                      a 2 1/2hp Briggs to turn it at a slow crawl. I use it out back to power
                      a saw all and drills.

                      I should have pointed out that all of the motors I have all have cooling
                      ports, fins and fans built into them on the inside. This i know because
                      I take them apart all of the time to replace bearings or brushes.

                      What I like to do is to use a bigger motor to power things so the heat
                      never becomes an issue. The alternator on your car generates power
                      and has a fan on the from of it.

                      Now here is what I can't figure out so maybe you can help me out. On
                      your big machine (Like John B. used to say) you have 1.5 amps coming
                      out of a 23awg wire conductor rated for 4.7amps, right? Why is it getting
                      hot then? Could it be that the wire is to small?

                      Could it be that the ratings for magnet wire are listed for a low frequency?

                      If this is true Not saying it is 20awg would handle it.


                      Look at this chart on magnet wire and tell me how frequency changes
                      the amp ratings. Or if it is considered power transmission. I know
                      it does not fall into the chassis rating.

                      if a coil or solenoid is considered a power transmission device then a
                      23awg wire is only rated for .7amps at say 60hz.

                      Can you understand my question? Why the heat.

                      Also i have a Bedini 5 strand with 4 of the conductors @14awwg and
                      the rating says 30 amps but when I use it in a coil it warms up at
                      5 amps? See my point? Why is that?

                      What is the frequency of your big rig? that would tell me something.
                      Last edited by BroMikey; 05-23-2019, 11:25 AM.


                      • Originally posted by BroMikey View Post
                        Looks like a 4sale sign video. Me no Russian, me English, me not buy
                        me build.
                        Unfortunately, the author does not disclose his projects. The only thing that says is about paired phases. Here you can interpret in different ways. I have my own projects in which, also, good recovery results, theoretically, according to calculations of magnetic and electrical circuits.
                        So de he mentioned Nikola Tesla with his two-phase system, called it a steam room.


                        • Hi Dave,

                          The ignore list works great for reducing your blood pressure. Reading comprehension seems to be a very rare commodity now days.

                          Take care,
                          Just because someone disagrees with you does NOT make them your enemy. We can disagree without attacking someone.


                          • Originally posted by Turion
                            I just explained “Why the heat.” I was very specific. It is not the wire that is causing the heat. It is the CORE material that is heating up. Magnets going by the CORE are CONSTANTLY rearranging particles within the core. Those moving particles cause the core to heat up. That heats up the wire and melts off the insulation. It is the CORE that has to be cooled, as I have explained several times now. Maybe ferrite won’t heat up as much, but it probably won’t produce as much power either. Maybe metglass will work. I have both to try. Just haven’t gotten around to it yet. Water bottles on the core works to dissipate the heat. Sometimes I wonder if you even read what I post.
                            in order that there is no excess heat, the correct calculation of the electrical circuit is necessary. and exclude forced counter currents, both electric and magnetic.
                            This "bourgeois" will not please, so the size will increase.
                            In this experiment, the motor designed by Flynn remained cold. According to this technology and the generator will also be cold. if you follow Ohm’s law for a complete chain.
                            What can you say according to the listed conditions.


                            • Originally posted by citfta View Post
                              Hi Dave,

                              The ignore list works great for reducing your blood pressure. Reading comprehension seems to be a very rare commodity now days.

                              Take care,
                              I am not trying to correct Dave and make him mad so he goes away.
                              Trolling is a full time job with you. Dave is a big boy, he knows me well.

                              Make comments that help the discussion.


                              • Originally posted by Turion
                                There is not a complex electrical circuit here. There are magnets passing a coil. The wires from the coil go to a load. Exactly what would you have me change or calculate to reduce the heat according to what you understand about Flynn's work? Because I have read most everything about Flynn that I could find over the years. What is it you have to share that will reduce the heat in my core? Don't show me a video of someone else's build. Tell me what YOU know based on what you have done and what you see that works. Any and all help will be appreciated. I will try it on my bench. When I see it working, THEN I will believe it exists. It is possible Flynn's motor DID run cold, and yes, motors and generators are basically the same thing. But how does that apply to what I have built? What do you mean by "Follow Ohms law for a complete chain"? And where do I find a discussion of THAT in anything related to Flynn?What is it you believe I need to do or change according to what you know? I am the world's biggest skeptic, despite what some people might think. Not trying to be rude. Thats just the way I look at things. Too many fakes and frauds out there and people who claim to know something but all they have done is watch someone else's fake video and drink the kool aide. They have never built anything themselves and all they do is talk, talk, talk because of what they have seen in a video and believe. Not what they have run on the bench and put a meter on.

                                My biggest wish is that NOBODY would show a video of someone else's work until they have built it, tested it, and know it to be true. It would eliminate people bringing to this forum 99.999% of the videos on free energy that exist on YouTube. Pleas understand I am not saying this video is meaningless, I'm just saying I cdon't understand how it applies and what YOU believe I need to change. Please explain. (Also, I love to rant and rave. Gets me worked up and then I actually DO something with my life instead of sit and watch movies. And I used to own a video store, so I have THOUSANDS of them yet to watch)
                                Flynn used bifilar windings * and unclosed cores. Place the dielectric between the magnet and the core. The eddy currents will not be able to stand in a ring.
                                In the conductor of the wire, do not allow the excess current according to the standards for cross-section and frequency. In the bifilar of Flynn, the current never changes its direction. Actually, I am not a homemade man, I am a researcher. If you think that the use of steam winding in a wonder, Flynn is not the first, the first were German engineers. It was from there that these developments reached the Soviet Union and the USA.

                                An example of the use of a bifilar winding (two wires for multidirectional inclusions on one core). I hope that the translation is not needed, you know how to read the electrical circuit.