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Bucking Coil Inverter

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  • I got tired of waiting for the AA battery to go dead and figured I have enough results from that test to see that it is just a fairly efficient device and will run at moderate brightness off a 1.2V battery and not lose much brightness even when I put a battery with only 400mV on it, and also learned that NiMH batteries seem to have a "plateau effect" where the V and I level off for a while...
    So on with the tests - I clipped the zip tie holding it together and started messing with it a little and noticed something interesting, so here is a vid.

    [VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCgBWKnKXYM[/VIDEO]

    It is actually going from 155mA to 185mA now that I got a closer look at the meter. ( I have to squeeze them together to get it to 150mA because of the wires and hot glue around the edges being in the way.) I've also noticed that by taking two of my 20x6x1mm neo magnets and placing one in between each side of the core and sticking them together, the draw goes down another 5mA. Of course they have to be placed in the proper orientation or the draw goes up 5mA.

    So these couple experiments have proved to me that:
    1- there is actually something to the whole partnered secondary thing
    2- the Current draw and Voltage consumption is reduced by having the partnered secondaries
    3- Even though this configuration is supposed to be nearly eliminating the magnetic flux in the core, there is still magnetic flux, but it can be used to our advantage

    the whole statement of having magnetic fields cancel and E fields adding (or doubling) doesn't make any sense to me whatsoever. In order to have electrification, both magnetism and dielectricity must be present. Electrification happens at the points where the dielectric and magnetic fields intersect, so if we were to completely cancel out the magnetic field, we would have only dielectricity, which is pure voltage.
    In order to have real electricity, we must have Voltage (dielectricity) and Current (magnetism)
    However, this is the interesting thing: A current can be induced into an inductor in 2 different ways:
    1) a changing magnetic flux ( A passing magnet)
    1)When magnetic flux induces a current into an inductor, the resultant collapse of said magnetic field results in a spike of dielectricity (voltage spike)
    2) Voltage (dielectric field) being applied to an inductor
    2)When a voltage is directed into an inductor, a magnetic field builds up and current is induced, and the resultant collapse of said magnetic field produces a spike of dielectricity.

    Capacitors are holders of dielectricity
    Inductors are holders of magnetic fields
    So one holds Voltage, one holds Current. That is why I added capacitors to my device - to see if I could create some sort of system of mutual partnership between capacitor and inductor, which it seems I did do.

    I haven't fully figured out how my device is functioning the way it is, but I am working on it. The more tests I perform, the better I will understand.
    Last edited by brian516; 02-13-2015, 07:04 AM.

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    • hi sky. nice work.i will try that today. i been playing with the circuit below. pic 1 for same wound sec's. pic 2 for counterwound sec's it powers the led lamp and returns some back to the source.lower most diode is a delete option. i use a fr302 and a 1n5189 in series. together they measure slightly higher forward v drop than the b-e junction. the circuit may not oscillate with less v drop in the diode/s than b-e.
      pic 3 runs. i'm still trying different connections on it.
      hi brian. vladimir utkin pdf's are a good read, if you haven't already.
      cheers.
      Attached Files
      Last edited by voltan; 02-14-2015, 04:58 AM.

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      • Good job brian!

        Comment


        • Originally posted by voltan View Post
          hi brian. vladimir utkin pdf's are a good read, if you haven't already.
          Is the 93 page file the complete version? That is the only one I have found so far. Titled "Nikola Tesla Secrets for Everybody". So far I have found 3 different e-books with the title "A practical guide to free energy devices"

          Comment


          • hi brian. 93 pages is the pdf i was referring to. not sure if there is more to be had.
            cheers.

            Comment


            • Wistiti-
              Thanks! more experiments to come, and soon with an actual O-scope! (hopefully!!!)

              Voltan -
              I will read that PDF. Thanks for pointing it out to me.
              I am definitely going to try those experiments you posted the schematics for. I just need to complete my experimental modifiable setup first.
              I am in the process of modifying my current device, taking out the caps, so I can simplify it and see what kind of results I get.


              All-
              I found an analog Tektronix 465 O-scope and tube oscillator that I should be getting sometime this week, so I'll actually be able to do real experiments and be able to actually see my results! haha. Now I just need a real FG, or at least learn how to use my Arduino 2560. (maybe I should just buy one of the books.....) and some variable power supplies.
              As for using the PC/stereo for a FG, does anyone know where I need to put the fuse so I don't blow up the amp in the stereo??? and approx what value to use? I have no idea and I can't find any info anywhere about it. I think I'm supposed to fuse it on the positive between the output of the stereo and my device, and probably use a value lower than the output of the stereo, but I want to actually confirm it with someone before I go doing it.

              Regards

              Comment


              • hi brian and all.check out polyswitches. ptc fuses as an option for amp protection.
                Resettable fuse - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
                cheers.
                Last edited by voltan; 02-14-2015, 06:57 PM.

                Comment


                • Ok, I took all the caps off and took off the soldered load. I connected it up to a 6v battery no load, and then connected a load. I am trying various loads, and here are some results:

                  It lights a .5W 120V LED non-modified bulb. (nightlight bulb). However, the input mA only drops about 10mA with that bulb. the output voltage across this load is 10.28VAC.

                  With the 6V .8W LED bulb, input mA drops 20mA, and voltage across load is 3.36VAC.

                  With a 12V 1W LED bulb, input mA drop = 15mA, voltage across load is 4.67VAC.

                  With 12V 5W incandescent (which only heats up the filament to a mild glow) input mA drop = 20mA. V across load = 3.5VAC

                  With 3.2ohm wirewound resistor load, 22mA input drop, 3.5VAC across load.

                  With 6ohm load (automotive 25W LED driver resistor) 22mA input drop, 3.5VAC across load.

                  With 120V 150W halogen (no light or glowing filament) 25mA input drop, 3.5VAC across load.

                  With 45uF 250VAC electrolytic capacitor, 20mA input drop, 3.5VAC across load cap. (weird, because I tried a much, much smaller AC cap - .033uf 400VAC cap and mA draw went up, but so did V across load cap)

                  With vintage PB400 audio cap - 4uF 150VAC - 30mA input drop, V across load is wildly bouncing around between 9.88VAC and 10.14VAC. After letting it sit with this cap on for 5min, input mA dropped more for a total of 40mA, and input battery has not went down another 10mV yet. I also just noticed that the V across load has reset to close to zero and started rapidly climbing back up. It is now at 3.5V and holding. mA draw now up 10mA from last reading. (im not sure, but I think these caps may be bad. they are probably from the 60s or 70s, and seem to be rolled up foil and wax paper, or something similar. If I figure out that they are bad, and aren't meant just to charge/discharge very rapidly, i'll cut one of them open and have a look.)

                  The 6V 4.5Ah battery starting voltage was 6.36V, when I hooked it up with no load, it rapidly dropped to 6.32V, then went up to 6.33V and stayed there for most of this 20 minute testing period. it is currently at 6.32V. mA draw is 190 with no load. it initially started at 150mA and gradually climbed until I started loading it, and then only climbed 10mA more when not loaded.

                  Now for the full short test....

                  at 180mA no load. 6.31V..... 16.10VAC across open load-end leads...
                  full short - 165mA for a total of 15mA input drop. 3.5VAC across shorted leads. battery back up to 6.32V

                  Also, there is very little magnetic field around the coil. I have a cheap-o compass sitting beside it, and it is only able to pull the compass needle 15 degrees off, max. only 10 degrees pull when shorted. Even though it is a cheap compass, it is still very sensitive.

                  Time for various input voltage tests, different transistors, and then ghetto FG input. Now that you all have the basic idea of what my device does, I will let you know if I get any significant results.

                  Regards,
                  Brian

                  A few interesting points to add:
                  I kept the 6V 4.5Ah batt on, with the 120V .5Watt non-modified LED nightlight bulb and did the magnet tests that I did before. I did the configurations with the two magnets in the gaps of the yoke in the following ways:
                  Opposing, N side towards primary
                  Opposing, S side towards primary
                  Aiding flux flow clockwise from top view
                  Aiding flux flow counter clockwise from top view

                  In the opposing configurations, it only increased the mA draw by less than 5mA. It increased the V across load by 80mV. It did not affect the battery's voltage.
                  In aiding, it only lowered the mA draw by about 3-5mA. It lowered the V across load by 3V! It also did not affect the battery's voltage.
                  In addition to this, I noticed that the magnets are able to change the polarity of the entire device. As I changed the magnet configs, the polarity of each side changed accordingly. That is how weak the magnetic field/flux is in the device. Also, without the magnets, when I separated secondary two from the other half of the device, my V across load increased by about 1V, my mA draw increased approx 10mA, and battery voltage immediately started dropping.
                  I will run it on two C cell alkaline batteries and add bridge rectifier on output side to see if I can get the effect Wistiti had, where the battery voltage jumped up when under load.
                  Last edited by brian516; 02-15-2015, 12:33 AM.

                  Comment


                  • Is anyone measuring their current output to their load? I have 0A output.
                    300mA input via negative wire (-300mA positive wire)
                    no matter what the load is, what the source is, it is always 0A out, as it should be when cancelling out the magnetic field... as far as I know, this is what JB refers to as Radiant Energy, or it is similar, being HV low or no current spikes, and from my research on that end, I know the only way to capture it and turn it into our kind of usable electricity is to capture it in batteries via the chemical process.

                    Gerard Morin has stated that current doesn't matter at all, that what actually matters is Voltage and Radiation.
                    I'm not exactly sure what kind of radiation he is referring to, but to my knowledge, magnetism is radiation, and magnetism is currently defined in conventional electronics as translating to current.. so he must be referring to another kind of radiation.
                    I get the hint he is talking about some sort of plasma radiation, or whatever radiation causes plasma.

                    Anyway, according to conventional electricity, my input/output calculates as follows. keep in mind this is RMS for the time being, since I don't have a scope, therefore it isn't the actual peak value.
                    Input: 12.21V x .3A = 3.663Watts
                    Output: 22.12V x 0A = 0 Watts
                    so my system, as far as rms goes (and without high precision instruments...yet) is a big fat 0 COP. hmm.

                    Comment


                    • hi brian. what are you measuring the output current with. a dmm will give flaky readings with radio frequencies. a d.c panel meter will try to push the needle up then down then up then down with no resultant movement if ac goes through it. once you rectify and smooth the output you will get a current reading with a dmm or a panel meter.
                      cheers.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by voltan View Post
                        hi brian. what are you measuring the output current with. a dmm will give flaky readings with radio frequencies. a d.c panel meter will try to push the needle up then down then up then down with no resultant movement if ac goes through it. once you rectify and smooth the output you will get a current reading with a dmm or a panel meter.
                        cheers.


                        ah ok. I didn't make it that far today. should have, but didn't was too busy getting ready to go check out this o-scope tomorrow...

                        Comment


                        • Anyone still messing with this? Or has everyone moved on to better things? My experimentation is on hold for a day or two while I rebuild one of these scope probes and diagnose/clean my "new" vintage o-scope.

                          If anyone is still messing with this, I might do some more experiments with it. Otherwise I think I may go dig out a washing machine pump and see what's all the fuss with the Gerard Morin devices.

                          Brian

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                          • Hi folks, this isn't exactly bucking coil related as far as i know, though it sure looks interesting and seems to show some kind of bucking principle also.
                            The claims for this device are intruiging as well.
                            I'm building a small test model with two 1-1/4" diameter ferrite toroids.







                            peace love light
                            Last edited by SkyWatcher; 02-17-2015, 05:24 AM.

                            Comment


                            • Definitely sounds like an interesting concept. Im definitely interested in hearing the results! After I'm finished cleaning/repairing/calibrating my "new" scope, I'm most likely going to do some experiments with the Gerard Morin stuff. Seems simple and easy enough, I have many many many DC motors, and AC motors as well, and I can definitely get a few washing machine pump motors, so it seems like its worth a shot. All I have to find are a few different very high voltage transformers.

                              Once I get it going, I will be posting in this thread:
                              http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...periments.html
                              If you are interested in the results.

                              Comment


                              • Hi folks, been making some tests with the partnered coil setup, NOT anything based on the pics i just posted.
                                Using the same device that wistiti showed in his video, though using the ferrite sleeve.
                                The outputs of the partnered coils are taken from the 2 center strands tied together and the outer 2 strands tied together, so essentially parallel output.
                                I placed a full wave bridge across the partnered coil output, then placed a 25 volt-2200uf capacitor across the output of full wave bridge.
                                What i observe is a very efficient charging of this capacitor, by quickly and abruptly tapping the battery input connection to the blocking oscillator circuit.
                                When powering the circuit steady state, it starts out at 60 milliamps, then rises to 90 milliamps as the capacitor reaches around 25 volts.

                                However, when the input to the circuit is abruptly pulsed, the input amps can be maintained at 10 miiliamps or below.
                                It seems like if i tap the battery input as fast as i can manually, it charges the cap fairly quickly, yet still only uses the 10 milliamps or below.
                                So, i'm thinking that a fast switching of the actual input to the circuit will increase capacitor charging efficiency.
                                Not sure if it needs to be a mechanical swiitching, from a commutator of some kind or if maybe a 555 timer used to switch another transistor on and off will work.
                                This circuit as a capacitor charger is different than all other circuits i have used to charge capacitors.
                                Normally, a circuit would use the greatest current input when the capacitor is empty and input current would decrease as capacitor became fully charged.

                                However, this circuit does the opposite to typical capacitor charging circuit as some here have observed with input amps lowering when short circuited.
                                And the pulsing to the whole circuit might be the ticket to something interesting.
                                Your thoughts welcome.
                                I will try and set something up to do this pulsing automatically.
                                peace love light

                                Oh, forgot to mention the input volts of this test was 3.7 volts, lithium ion cell.
                                Last edited by SkyWatcher; 02-21-2015, 08:12 PM.

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