My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[DadHav]

John,

Of course I will correct you if you are wrong.

And yes, you are wrong.

What kind of motors all those R/C Models use?...anyone like the one I am showing on video?!...am so sure none have that type, nor even close...or they will sink down on their nose...or drawn on the lake...

The point on video is so simple.

Get the Original 750 Watts SYMMETRIC MOTOR and then try doing exactly same test...and observe its shaft won't even turn one millimeter...and batteries die in seconds.

Why?...You know better than most here how a Symmetric, short circuit, closed loop Brush Motor works John.
You know it MUST ENERGIZE ALL COILS in the Rotor at the same time to achieve rotation, on this case it will divide the 360º Quadrant in Four, Two North, Two South against all four NSNS stators...then all energy would be set against each others in a complete short, lost energy versus EMF won´t be enough to even move that shaft with those tiny batteries, period.

I only turn Two Coils at a time, and at Max, Four coils when dual Comm Elements made contact with Brushes, and that is Four from a Total of Twenty (20) Coils...then they disconnect and NEXT comes in, sequence...simple.

Again, it is not about the battery ratings, they do exactly like they have it written on label.

I know exactly what Amps/Hour means John, batteries do exactly that rating, motor draws like between 3.5 to 4.0 Amps, which approx double the 2.2 amps/h...so they do rotate shaft for close to half hour, discounting nickel and dimes...and that is correct time.

Have in mind that is a massive rotor of 4.5 Lbs, plus magnetic drag from FOUR Heavy Duty Magnets, plus mechanical friction from EIGHT Brushes, plus bearings, etc...for me is even hard to turn that rotor by hand...and this two batteries turn it for 25 minutes at 360 RPM's....that is the point.

You have said it all...in your R/C Models you would only fly/operate/navigate for 15-20 minutes max with a MUCH SMALLER MOTOR!!...and what are you using? LiPo's right?...well, this are Nickel Metal Hydride Sir...you know pretty well the difference....wanna watch what it does at 11.2 Volts and Lipo's?...using exactly same amperage draw as those two little AA?

Got the point?...or still don't?

Related to your 2 pound rotor running for months...is that an "OFF THE SHELF" Motor We all could buy with a part number and a brand name?

Related to the "Technology"...it is exactly the same, and everyone here is familiar with that type of winding...it has been exposed in full colors for a long while back.


Take care John


Ufopolitics

UFO, I never said I don't like your motor video. I was only saying it seems you might be underestimating the capability of small size batteries. NiCd and NiMh have been used for years in high current drain applications, probably some drawing more current than what you expect. Look at electric drills for that matter. I said I was anxious to see future videos. My comment about my motor was meant to say, when you can make your own motors, you can design them to run on very low current. I understand about mechanical shortcomings of the motor you demonstrate. I really don't think there's anything to argue about on this. We'll see how things look when you compare the modification to the specifications and tests you made on the original motor before you modified it. Or do you have an identical motor on the shelf? Really, good luck.
John

[DadHav]

UFO, I never said I don't like your motor video. I was only saying it seems you might be underestimating the capability of small size batteries. NiCd and NiMh have been used for years in high current drain applications, probably some drawing more current than what you expect. Look at electric drills for that matter. I said I was anxious to see future videos. My comment about my motor was meant to say, when you can make your own motors, you can design them to run on very low current. I understand about mechanical shortcomings of the motor you demonstrate. I really don't think there's anything to argue about on this. We'll see how things look when you compare the modification to the specifications and tests you made on the original motor before you modified it. Or do you have an identical motor on the shelf? Really, good luck.
John

Why?...You know better than most here how a Symmetric, short circuit, closed loop Brush Motor works John.
You know it MUST ENERGIZE ALL COILS in the Rotor at the same time to achieve rotation, on this case it will divide the 360º Quadrant in Four, Two North, Two South against all four NSNS stators...then all energy would be set against each others in a complete short, lost energy versus EMF won´t be enough to even move that shaft with those tiny batteries, period.

I only turn Two Coils at a time, and at Max, Four coils when dual Comm Elements made contact with Brushes, and that is Four from a Total of Twenty (20) Coils...then they disconnect and NEXT comes in, sequence...simple.

UFO I always wondered about something. How can you have as much torque from four coils as it would compare to having twenty coils assisting rotation?
John

[Ufopolitics]

Sorry UFO but I have a NOPE for you too. I guess there could be some confusion about what I was calling the bottom. I'm not talking about where you put the switch on the drawing. Check my picture and I'll politely ask aging, because I could be wrong but don't think so. If this first assumption is correct then everything after it is correct also. If so, do you have misleading videos? Let me ask before you even evaluate the drawing: Are you openly claiming in your videos the the bulb load is running from the motor? From potential generated by the device and not the battery?
Now look at my modified drawing. Will the motor stop and the bulb stay lit?

Now John, I will bring your exact question before (that is why I underlined it previously and chose bold letters):

Correct me if I'm wrong again but couldn't you disconnect either side of the bottom wires and the motor would stop and be powerless but the bulb would stay lit.

You wrote clearly "Bottom Wires"...and I don't think you've got wrong concepts about a Motor Front where shaft erects strong and out...and the "bottom" or REAR, where you see no connecting shaft at all?

Still, I will answer, even though that disconnection means absolutely nothing, you are disconnecting a derivation point from both Positive feeds to BOTH Components and leaving just one...it is clear that disconnected component will stop, and still connected will keep working...a very nonsensical disconnection.

But Yes, Bulb will be lit AND will INCREASE Extremely lighting to almost blow out...as Amp Draw also INCREASE to MAX Power Source could afford to give out.

Now answer Why Motor accelerates when Bulb is attached to it?

Simple and brief answer please.


Ufopolitics

[DadHav]

Now John, I will bring your exact question before (that is why I underlined it previously and chose bold letters):



You wrote clearly "Bottom Wires"...and I don't think you've got wrong concepts about a Motor Front where shaft erects strong and out...and the "bottom" or REAR, where you see no connecting shaft at all?

Still, I will answer, even though that disconnection means absolutely nothing, you are disconnecting a derivation point from both Positive feeds to BOTH Components and leaving just one...it is clear that disconnected component will stop, and still connected will keep working...a very nonsensical disconnection.

But Yes, Bulb will be lit AND will INCREASE Extremely lighting to almost blow out...as Amp Draw also INCREASE to MAX Power Source could afford to give out.

Now answer Why Motor accelerates when Bulb is attached to it?

Simple and brief answer please.


Ufopolitics

Hello UFO, Thank you, despite you trying to humiliate me over a misunderstanding of what is the bottom you did admit the bulb would light. If the bulb lights with the motor not turning how can you still possibly say the bulb lights from the motor? Is there anyone here or in the whole world seeing these posts that can see what I see? And now I guess it's time for the Platoon to come to your rescue, I see the comets starting already. The bulb lights from the battery and your videos are bogus if you are telling people otherwise. SIMPLE SIMPLE. My motor will probably be finished this afternoon and maybe I can offer an explanation of the speed increase based on my mismatch resistance in the coil theory. Tell me though. You didn't answer when I asked if this is where you will be connecting external loads on the motor. Is it? I don't think so, unless you are planning on running them from the battery. If this is not where the load is going then you won't have the extra RPM's right? Also tests will have to show the extra comes without a loss of torque. When you get to the point of refinement I guess we'll find out with proper tests.
John

[Ufopolitics]

Two/Four versus Twenty Coils energized.

UFO I always wondered about something. How can you have as much torque from four coils as it would compare to having twenty coils assisting rotation?
John

Your questions are very well conceived, John...very smart written, they tend to "simplify" things so others could "understand" your point.

But I will answer that question as simple as I could do.

In a Symmetrical Motor, the 20 coils are divided by four brushes, Two(2) Negative (-) and Two(2) Positive(+), that leaves exactly Five (5) Coils in each Quadrant, so we have:

<(+)>(5Coils N)<(-)>(5Coils S)<(+)>(5Coils N)<(-)>(5Coils S)> back to starting (+)...this closes loop.

You realize that current will tend to cancel to zero between each two reversed coil groups of five(5)...then what is the total resulting I (current)?

That "cancelling" reads out as very "low amp draw" at the end terminals of a Symmetric motor...but see the results when you connect that motor versus time...

Putting it more simple...

How much Energy Difference will take just Two/Four (2/4) Coils versus Twenty(20) Reversing each others at same T?

If You have same Power Source for both types...Which one of the Two do you think will create stronger magnetic fields (EMF) to generate torque?

In the case of the All North Asymmetric Winding is even more efficient...just because Flux travels same path direction at all times within rotor steel core lamination...we do not get North-South Reversals of Flux ...but same direction, therefore, residual flux will just require much less draw from outer source to return to "traveling/operational speed" . This is simply shown in no sparking- at all- in commutator-brush contacts, heating losses reduced to minimal rates....and more, but, again, I do not want to complicate more the answer.


Ufopolitics

[DadHav]

Your questions are very well conceived, John...very smart written, they tend to "simplify" things so others could "understand" your point.

But I will answer that question as simple as I could do.

In a Symmetrical Motor, the 20 coils are divided by four brushes, Two(2) Negative (-) and Two(2) Positive(+), that leaves exactly Five (5) Coils in each Quadrant, so we have:

<(+)>(5Coils N)<(-)>(5Coils S)<(+)>(5Coils N)<(-)>(5Coils S)> back to starting (+)...this closes loop.

You realize that current will tend to cancel to zero between each two reversed coil groups of five(5)...then what is the total resulting I (current)?

That "cancelling" reads out as very "low amp draw" at the end terminals of a Symmetric motor...but see the results when you connect that motor versus time...

Putting it more simple...

How much Energy Difference will take just Two/Four (2/4) Coils versus Twenty(20) Reversing each others at same T?

If You have same Power Source for both types...Which one of the Two do you think will create stronger magnetic fields (EMF) to generate torque?

In the case of the All North Asymmetric Winding is even more efficient...just because Flux travels same path direction at all times within rotor steel core lamination...we do not get North-South Reversals of Flux ...but same direction, therefore, residual flux will just require much less draw from outer source to return to "traveling/operational speed" . This is simply shown in no sparking- at all- in commutator-brush contacts, heating losses reduced to minimal rates....and more, but, again, I do not want to complicate more the answer.


Ufopolitics

Hello UFO, Thanks for the answer. I know there is more complicated things to consider and that there is still a lot to learn about your new ideas. I hope testing will show some good results. I think I mentioned this before but when it comes to things like the motor speeding up, there should be concern for everyone to help figure out why this is happening. I know you handed me the challenge but don't you think when you have a positive effect it needs to be tested and experimented with until it is fully understood why it manifested. Only in that way can you enhance it No?
John

[DadHav]

Do You want me to show SAME TEST with ALKALINE Plain, simple Energizer Bunny Rabbit Batteries?

Then what would be your answer? Trying "not to underestimate" the power of Alkaline's this time?

I did that test with NiMh just because the results with LiPo's were about "not to underestimate the power of LiPo's"...

Your point and position is clear to me John, always has been, no matter how sweet your approach would be...

By "Not Underestimating the power of source" answer types...simply sets my Machine in plain reduced/diminished position...simple right?

I can see what your coming video results would look like, before you even finish winding it...the same exact comparison test with original you did in the beginning and still there, no matter how many discussion we had previously, and how many times I responded, and tried again and again to explain that an original RS Motor has 60 turns each coil X5=300 Turns total of 33-32 gauge wire TURNED ON simultaneously...versus mine of 30 Turns in Pair turned on.

...but, no matter what, you did not care, kept going on and on...just accomplishing one single purpose:

To Minimize/Ridicule my Work...and "SELL" some hundreds thousands views...while doing it...I know you may not need the "nickel and dimes" compared to your Million Views Videos...but hey, I have met so many Multi-Millionaires that will fight to death for a couple of bucks more on their bags.


But just ask me if I care.


Ufopolitics

Wow, you say I'm sweet?. Oh no you were talking about my approach. Well you actually said a lot here that had nothing to do with the issue at hand but I'll take from there. I don't need any kind of help from you, your technology or the video I made about it, to have a popular video channel. I am not here to diminish anything you say or do, and I earn very little from the hard work I put into the channel. I'm here to make sure you represent the truth in what you say and put on videos. Forget about the batteries and that video all together. I'll apologize for even making a comment on it. What you showed was so preliminary that I should never have said anything yet. I was asked here by a few of your own and I told them I shouldn't do what they asked but here I am. In the past almost everything I brought up was accurate. One of your own whose integrity would never be challenged said my video on the RS motor was spot on. The video was objective and no matter what you say about the windings or anything else a very simple test showed the stock RS motor to be able to do more work, and that there was no way to use the generator coil without current draw that would be expected from the load. Ask another professional to give you an opinion. How about the people testing your motors, they'd give you the truth. You can get everyone's dander worked up and turn the troops against me but I'm not doing anything here that, if I'm right, won't save your friends a lot of trouble on wild goose chases.
Did your videos intent to make people think the bulb was lighting from the potential of the motor/generator? this is what's important to everyone here. This makes it look like your motor doesn't loose RPM when it receives a load. Do you still claim this? I know you mentioned about the wire connections, and I say the connection in my diagram is a legitimate test to prove the load runs from the battery and not the motor, I'll propose another test. Remove the magnets from the motor and connect the bulb. Turn the rotor until the brush alignment is right and the bulb lights. If the bulb lights then it will be obvious that I'm doing nothing other than trying to help you and the others here. I haven't tested this myself and give you the opportunity to test and tell me if I'm wrong. You can't go on forever having everyone believe everything you say without proper proof. If everyone here wants to go on that way then:
Just ask me if I care.
John
PS. I hadn't planned on making another video unless I couldn't explain myself. I wanted something positive to show first as well.

[Ufopolitics]

Wow, you say I'm sweet?. Oh no you were talking about my approach. Well you actually said a lot here that had nothing to do with the issue at hand but I'll take from there. I don't need any kind of help from you, your technology or the video I made about it, to have a popular video channel.

Of course not, I wrote it above, your channel is already "millionaire in views" without any of my work on it.

I am not here to diminish anything you say or do, and I earn very little from the hard work I put into the channel. I'm here to make sure you represent the truth in what you say and put on videos.

OMG!, You are a "Real Truth Seeker"...

Forget about the batteries and that video all together. I'll apologize for even making a comment on it. What you showed was so preliminary that I should never have said anything yet.

Am glad You recognize it you should not have done it...but you did, and I answered.

I was asked here by a few of your own and I told them I shouldn't do what they asked but here I am. In the past almost everything I brought up was accurate. One of your own whose integrity would never be challenged said my video on the RS motor was spot on. The video was objective and no matter what you say about the windings or anything else a very simple test showed the stock RS motor to be able to do more work, and that there was no way to use the generator coil without current draw that would be expected from the load. Ask another professional to give you an opinion. How about the people testing your motors, they'd give you the truth. You can get everyone's dander worked up and turn the troops against me but I'm not doing anything here that, if I'm right, won't save your friends a lot of trouble on wild goose chases.

Now you are underestimating the replications of all test done on this Thread, John.

Many have done those tests here and have posted results...you're kind of late...or have not read prior posts.

Did your videos intent to make people think the bulb was lighting from the potential of the motor/generator? this is what's important to everyone here. This makes it look like your motor doesn't loose RPM when it receives a load. Do you still claim this? I know you mentioned about the wire connections, and I say the connection in my diagram is a legitimate test to prove the load runs from the battery and not the motor, I'll propose another test. Remove the magnets from the motor and connect the bulb. Turn the rotor until the brush alignment is right and the bulb lights. If the bulb lights then it will be obvious that I'm doing nothing other than trying to help you and the others here. I haven't tested this myself and give you the opportunity to test and tell me if I'm wrong. You can't go on forever having everyone believe everything you say without proper proof. If everyone here wants to go on that way then:
Just ask me if I care.
John
PS. I hadn't planned on making another video unless I couldn't explain myself. I wanted something positive to show first as well.

Take a look at the video below:

ACCELERATION UNDER LOAD NO BS

You see things the way you want to see them, John...and it is always at your convenience, according to your position, which has always been the same.

[IMG][/IMG]

The Bulb is connected in Parallel to L2, and in series to L1 and Battery...and ACTUALLY L1 and L2 are NOT just One Coil, or One Inductor.

When you are asking me to take magnets off and make a mechanical connection between Bulb and Power Source through brushes-comm connect...You are revealing here, that you are completely ignoring and disregarding the constant discharge into this circuit from Both Gates L1,L2 that have FIVE Coils on Rotor, continuously collapsing at very high RPM's...and this is the most essential side to observe here...maybe you are not "seeing" this...

You are looking at this test/connections/circuit in general, as if they all would be in PAUSE, STANDING STILL...and it is NOT AT ALL like you are seeing this Tests.

Below am trying to show you in standing still what it would like in electronics...

[IMG][/IMG]

The Commutators and Elements are doing the work like FET's would do, in an oscillating signal from shaft to Gates, Drains would be turning On-Off Inductors all time during rotation...Source is connected same as shown.

Now take all the four FET's Off and see what the circuit does?

But maybe You are not capable to see beyond a Stand Still Circuit...then that is not my problem, but yours.

Why don't you propose or do it yourself, smarter tests, by adding a Scope at Terminals in discussion/doubts?...so you could see the real spikes generated while running..and NOT when PSU and Bulb are on/lit and motor is disconnected or stopped?


Ufopolitics

[DadHav]

Of course not, I wrote it above, your channel is already "millionaire in views" without any of my work on it.



OMG!, You are a "Real Truth Seeker"...




Am glad You recognize it you should not have done it...but you did, and I answered.



Now you are underestimating the replications of all test done on this Thread, John.

Many have done those tests here and have posted results...you're kind of late...or have not read prior posts.




Take a look at the video below:

ACCELERATION UNDER LOAD NO BS

You see things the way you want to see them, John...and it is always at your convenience, according to your position, which has always been the same.

[IMG][/IMG]

The Bulb is connected in Parallel to L2, and in series to L1 and Battery...and ACTUALLY L1 and L2 are NOT just One Coil, or One Inductor.

When you are asking me to take magnets off and make a mechanical connection between Bulb and Power Source through brushes-comm connect...You are revealing here, that you are completely ignoring and disregarding the constant discharge into this circuit from Both Gates L1,L2 that have FIVE Coils on Rotor, continuously collapsing at very high RPM's...and this is the most essential side to observe here...maybe you are not "seeing" this...

You are looking at this test/connections/circuit in general, as if they all would be in PAUSE, STANDING STILL...and it is NOT AT ALL like you are seeing this Tests.

Below am trying to show you in standing still what it would like in electronics...

[IMG][/IMG]

The Commutators and Elements are doing the work like FET's would do, in an oscillating signal from shaft to Gates, Drains would be turning On-Off Inductors all time during rotation...Source is connected same as shown.

Now take all the four FET's Off and see what the circuit does?

But maybe You are not capable to see beyond a Stand Still Circuit...then that is not my problem, but yours.

Why don't you propose or do it yourself, smarter tests, by adding a Scope at Terminals in discussion/doubts?...so you could see the real spikes generated while running..and NOT when PSU and Bulb are on/lit and motor is disconnected or stopped?


Ufopolitics

In a way I am a truth seeker. Does anyone here have a problem with that? Since the terrible treatment I've had here looking for the truth and tests that tell the truth and actually prove concept beyond a doubt are you all going to bombard me with insults and make UFO happy now?. Are you going to laugh at the little smile and laugh things he adds after a coments? Or are you going to start questioning things yourself? Everything going on on the last few pages should be very simple and ended very easily. Is the load running from the battery or the motor/generator. You say there are many replications. Yes, I must have missed them. are they on your list of successful replications? Anyone should be able to replicate this and light the bulb but how many know why the bulb is lighting? I will run the tests you suggest. I had to break sharp edges and recoat the RS armature after stripping the wire and potting off. But here again with your comment about spikes are you saying now that bulb is lighting or enhance by that. 50 turns on a little core like that? OK I'll be happy to make that test but I think the burden of proof should be on you not me. You can not convince me of being wrong on this. If you disconnect the wires as I show the bulb will light, if you remove the magnets the motor will be still and the bulb will light, If you safely stall the motor and measure voltage across whatever is there for a load you will find it is coming from the battery. I don't have to do a single test to believe this is 100 percent true. How can you let people believe the bulb is being lit from anything other than the battery? I'll say there may be some side effects from circuit interaction but the fact remains it's deceiving. I ask again, is this where you are going to hook up loads on these devices? What good does it do if the increase at the power supply goes up as much as adding the bulb in parallel to the battery? When are you going to show a real life application that shows any motor driving something farther than the original motor. Why do you make this all so hard when that's all you have to do. I would love to see it and drop the confetti!
John

[Ufopolitics]

In a way I am a truth seeker. Does anyone here have a problem with that? Since the terrible treatment I've had here looking for the truth and tests that tell the truth and actually prove concept beyond a doubt are you all going to bombard me with insults and make UFO happy now?. Are you going to laugh at the little smile and laugh things he adds after a coments? Or are you going to start questioning things yourself? Everything going on on the last few pages should be very simple and ended very easily. Is the load running from the battery or the motor/generator. You say there are many replications. Yes, I must have missed them. are they on your list of successful replications? Anyone should be able to replicate this and light the bulb but how many know why the bulb is lighting? I will run the tests you suggest. I had to break sharp edges and recoat the RS armature after stripping the wire and potting off. But here again with your comment about spikes are you saying now that bulb is lighting or enhance by that. 50 turns on a little core like that? OK I'll be happy to make that test but I think the burden of proof should be on you not me. You can not convince me of being wrong on this. If you disconnect the wires as I show the bulb will light, if you remove the magnets the motor will be still and the bulb will light, If you safely stall the motor and measure voltage across whatever is there for a load you will find it is coming from the battery. I don't have to do a single test to believe this is 100 percent true. How can you let people believe the bulb is being lit from anything other than the battery? I'll say there may be some side effects from circuit interaction but the fact remains it's deceiving. I ask again, is this where you are going to hook up loads on these devices? What good does it do if the increase at the power supply goes up as much as adding the bulb in parallel to the battery? When are you going to show a real life application that shows any motor driving something farther than the original motor. Why do you make this all so hard when that's all you have to do. I would love to see it and drop the confetti!
John

John,

I really do NOT have the time nor the patience to continue with you in this long posts over something exposed a long back.

I am into a bigger Machine now, and it will have RADICALLY separated Input from Generation Gates. I wrote about this before also.
So, am not "PAUSING" now that I got this in working process.

The Radio Shack Motor was a demo, like it was before, a small demo to show results, speed, and yes it DOES GENERATES AS WELL...not believe it does?...that is COMPLETELY your problem, not mine.

Now You are addressing my people here and telling them I have given false results.

I have simply shown all we have observed/witnessed on all this videos, period.

Please do not get me upset, let's finish this "series of old posts exchange" and let me keep going forward.

Do all testing as you please with the 4.99 USD RS Motor...


Ufopolitics

[Midaztouch]

@ All

In case you missed it. An individual commented on the last Vid. He rudely said that the torque of the all north 20 pole very weak and could be stopped with his private member.

Here is UFO's reply vid using 11volts. Ouch!!!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?list=UUd...&v=kZgRgCY0oqw

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[Midaztouch]

UFO

Wait a minute! John has every right to ask questions and oppose objections to what we are doing. He's asking the questions that the doubters would ask and the readers need an objective outlook! This can NOT be a one way dialogue.... Or people will start pushing away again.

I know that they come at you from many directions but you can handle it. Be cool! It's SHOWTIME!

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[DadHav]

John,

I really do NOT have the time nor the patience to continue with you in this long posts over something exposed a long back.

I am into a bigger Machine now, and it will have RADICALLY separated Input from Generation Gates. I wrote about this before also.
So, am not "PAUSING" now that I got this in working process.

The Radio Shack Motor was a demo, like it was before, a small demo to show results, speed, and yes it DOES GENERATES AS WELL...not believe it does?...that is COMPLETELY your problem, not mine.

Now You are addressing my people here and telling them I have given false results.

I have simply shown all we have observed/witnessed on all this videos, period.

Please do not get me upset, let's finish this "series of old posts exchange" and let me keep going forward.

Do all testing as you please with the 4.99 USD RS Motor...


Ufopolitics

UFO, I agree with you 100 percent. This needs to stop here. I would say we both stated our case and it needs to be put to rest. You do have much bigger things to worry about. On another note I put my motor together and was surprised at how nicely the motor went from 3 volts to 12 with the coils in series. There was not that much change in current draw as I went up in voltage. while I was trying to final adjust I started drawing more current and knew the gaps between the commutator pieces were slightly filling with carbon. I think I have to make another motor. This one has run it's pace I think. I have Goldmine motors and might get to them later but I'm not sure it's worth it with you and your builders being so far ahead with the larger motors and more serious concepts.
Good luck everyone.
John

[DadHav]

@ All

In case you missed it. An individual commented on the last Vid. He rudely said that the torque of the all north 20 pole very weak and could be stopped with his private member.

Here is UFO's reply vid using 11volts. Ouch!!!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?list=UUd...&v=kZgRgCY0oqw

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

I'm out of here. I'll be wearing my iron clad jockstrap when UFO comes to town to have his motor tested. He might bring that portable de-maler along with him and come after me. Very entertaining plus a LiPo battery short with no fire. The kind of guy UFO did this for is a different kind of guy. I've had hundreds of them and usually when you look at their profile this is what their hobby is.
John

[DadHav]

I'm out of here. I'll be wearing my iron clad jockstrap when UFO comes to town to have his motor tested. He might bring that portable de-maler along with him and come after me. Very entertaining plus a LiPo battery short with no fire. The kind of guy UFO did this for is a different kind of guy. I've had hundreds of them and usually when you look at their profile this is what their hobby is.
John

Oh I forgot to mention. If you decide to go after that guy instead of me, I'll let you borrow my portable De-Maler so you can have one in each hand:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0q8...3eiTAh-wthzDm2