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  • Yeah!!!! Lets go Machine!!!

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    • About Wound Stators...

      Originally posted by machinealive View Post
      I know Cornboy, if the whole imperial frame could fit in might consider, but it won't quite fit, we could even just go two pole, I want wound stators so bad, every damn one of them.. We are going light this b**** up, Cornboy, eh UFO.

      Doesn't that fit nice, UFO. It's so easy, even if we have to mod something, everything is centered.
      There are no stators in yet, the other excitor was a little smaller, so we'll need new ones.

      Anyway, going to need a couple days to think about stators, bearing couplings, you know. , wind the motor.

      Later Comrades

      Hello Machine,

      If You have to build the Imperial Wound Stators from scratch...meaning...getting the laminations made from a Waterjet...etc.

      PLEASE...make them as close as possible between each others!
      If there is one thing I do not like about the Imperial...is the SO FAR apart and away space between stators...IF they would have been bigger arc magnets (almost touching each others)...our motors would have MUCH more power than they have shown so far.

      Closer to each other stators, generates very compact static magnetic fields, that generates bigger and longer throwout (repulsion stage) to attraction mode ...resulting in higher speed and higher torque...with same energy spent.

      So, please...have this in mind.

      And if you need CAD on Stators...We will get Cornboy to make them...

      Just kidding Cornboy!!

      Warm regards


      Ufopolitics
      Last edited by Ufopolitics; 08-29-2013, 05:45 AM.
      Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci

      Comment


      • @ Machine, I love wound stators also, just thinking of time, money and work saved, as your imperial will probably be overkill, for the Figgen anyway.

        How much dosn't it fit by? Could the outside frame of the motor be machined, or the inside of gen housing, be skimmed?

        @ UFO, i think we all know who could do the CAD's, not mentioning any names of course.

        God i wish i could do cad's etc, i would like to share how i think we can build the Figuera drums, to house the wire in wave wound pattern, don't have time to draw though. I will just have to build one and show pics.

        Regards Cornboy
        Last edited by Cornboy 555; 08-29-2013, 06:15 AM.

        Comment


        • astute observation John Stone from your 5342 post

          Originally posted by JohnStone View Post
          @sampojo:
          I like your motor! Very robust. But please regard armature poles to be 20 only and commutator to be 40! Same like my vacuum cleaner motor. Regard two segments of commutator to be related to one single armature pole.
          JS
          Good catch John. Thank you. So there is no major drawback as you may see it then, as just interconnecting 2 comm segs?

          Well this is first for me.

          @Ufo, takes away from the divisible by 8 pattern, then. At 20 poles I should look here, Bosch P4 p117



          Or your Quad Pentagon 20 pole P51 post 1501:


          Ufo, Bosch design or the QP20?

          and what about adapting the QP10 to the 20 instead? P142p4238



          Assuming I can get those magnets out. With my heavy steel frame, heat gun should still work no? And as you have noted how the steel frame makes the outer poles of the magnet unusable except for your dual rotor design, Ufo, ...

          @John S. you have mentioned that steel frames may focus down the fields internally somewhat. Does that help a little in a motor of this type? Is an aluminum or anti-magnetic motor body better in general?
          Last edited by sampojo; 08-29-2013, 05:28 PM.
          Up, Up and Away

          Comment


          • Hi Sampojo,
            still learning. My 20 pole vacuum motor is 2 brush type. UFO will give you advice for 20 pole 4 brush.
            Conforming normal knowledge the less resistance for flux the more torque. I feel the most resistance are the air gaps between stator and armature. In order to account for tolerances at production they tend to be made unfortunately wide.
            At least small motors get help if they have another tin cylinder above the normal metal housing. I do not know if this is true at bigger and massive ones. I added at my MY10xx motors a 4" cylinder 3.2mm thick for joining the two stator parts - knowing that it will possibly help for more torque - at least not hinder any action. I will order a custom shaft next week and then I will ponder on winding.
            JS
            Experts spend hours a day in order to question their doing while others stopped thinking feeling they were professionals.

            Comment


            • Not 40...but 20...

              Originally posted by sampojo View Post
              Good catch John. Thank you. So there is no major drawback as you may see it then, as just interconnecting 2 comm segs?

              Well this is first for me.

              @Ufo, takes away from the divisible by 8 pattern, then. At 20 poles I should look here, Bosch P4 p117



              Or your Quad Pentagon 20 pole P51 post 1501:


              Ufo, Bosch design or the QP20?

              and what about adapting the QP10 to the 20 instead? P142p4238



              Assuming I can get those magnets out. With my heavy steel frame, heat gun should still work no? And as you have noted how the steel frame makes the outer poles of the magnet unusable except for your dual rotor design, Ufo, ...

              @John S. you have mentioned that steel frames may focus down the fields internally somewhat. Does that help a little in a motor of this type? Is an aluminum or anti-magnetic motor body better in general?
              Hello Sampojo,

              Well, it is 20 then...so like John Stone wrote...you use two commutator elements...and that is it.

              Related to which model to choose...You have to realize they are all Four Stators/ Four Brushes design...so You will have to do some tweaks to make the right timing...

              If You are looking for simplicity and easier adjustments, to work with the 2 Stators Two Brushes...then I would go for the P20 (BOSCH)

              But, if you are in the search for "adventure" in the middle of the Jungle... ...Then go for the Four Pentagons...study the Motor Interactions at Diagram Right Upper side...then you will realize the Magnetic Fields must be "bent" to meet only Two Stators, apart by 180, instead that at 90.

              The Ten, would be easier to adapt to 20...and I believe you already did that...on the window regulator motor...right?

              But I have an even better "idea" just for you to try...please, do not let anyone else know...ok?...so a secret!

              Want to build a "Super Five Pole Machine"?

              Then just go back to Radio Shack Five Poles/Two Stators...and only difference would be to wrap FOUR Poles Coils (EIGHT on Pair)...simple Uh?

              You will be making a huge and super strong Five Pole/Two Stator "Flying Machine"...

              Make very strong, low resistance (2.0 ohms, not 1.0 this time )...and can go up to 3.5 Ohms...but with heavy gauge...18...or 16 awg...and get ready...

              This one is the simplest, no big modification you need here...

              Except, related to Commutators...it would be BEST...if You could find a Couple of smaller diameter 20 Elements only that would fit that same shaft..it would be awesome...If not...then 40/5=8 Elements per Pairs...which would be a long one with such big diameter commutators...that's only issue where I am worried about...much time On...will create heavy sparks and HV reverse spikes galore...So, to avoid this or at least diminish it...you would have to spread gaps every four segments...however, this option will make commutators not reusable for the other designs here...like P20 ,QP20 or expand 10 to QP20...


              Well...I believe you got many choices here...You decide...

              Related to making Outer Rotor Design...yes you could also do that...with any of the designs you choose....Stator Power./Strength..you have more than plenty...


              Regards


              Ufopolitics
              Last edited by Ufopolitics; 08-30-2013, 02:15 AM.
              Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci

              Comment


              • @ufo - Baldor thoughts

                I have a 3KW Mecce Alte if you remember, so I would be needing the 3600 rpm. Do you think an RS style 2-stator would get the needed power? Very interesting for an easier build.

                Ufo
                If You are looking for simplicity and easier adjustments, to work with the 2 Stators Two Brushes...then I would go for the P20 (BOSCH)
                Bosch, top dgm, is a 4-stator no?

                Thinking about a 4-stator I could fit in a small pipe to hold the brush holders. The end cap seems to be aluminum, bout 1/4" thick, lot to work with. Also thinking about cutting out two brush holders from my third motor, and get them welded in to get to the 4-stator. But looks very daunting to get those magnets out to cut in half. Just apply the heat I guess. The glue will insulate the magnets until it melts enough to let go, no? look just glued in.

                But which of the 4-stator patterns do you think would be strongest, Ufo?

                I think the QP10 adapted to 20 will be easier then the QP20, but just a guess. I know you only need to keep 5 spools active on that one because 1 N&S coil subtends just 4 poles on a 10pole design, but the QP20 bend is less intense and subtends 9 poles, so I might need to keep more spools going at the peak in the winding process, yuk. Any reason why the QP10 cannot be up-sized? It puts out that 9000 rpm on my little motor, lot of get up and go.

                Just planning and thinking on the big one for now, trying to focus on building drivers and arduinos let alone rpm sensors. Sheesh you guys kill me.
                Last edited by sampojo; 08-30-2013, 03:47 AM.
                Up, Up and Away

                Comment


                • Varnish/epoxy with international shipping

                  @ All

                  I finally received my new parts for the imperial. Everything looks great

                  I've tried to source varnish/epoxy for the 18agw I'm using here in Japan. I give up! Please direct me to an Internet company that sell varnish/epoxy with international shipping.
                  All most ready to make a fool out of my self and have some fun

                  Here's an article on 3D printing for NASA rocket parts 3D-Printed Rocket Part Passes Biggest NASA Test Yet (Video)

                  Keep it Clean and Green
                  Midaz
                  Last edited by Midaztouch; 08-30-2013, 04:24 AM.

                  Comment


                  • Are we there yet!

                    Hey Midas, i have been following 3D printing for some time now, if you have money to invest, which i don't, couldn't be better, most sheeple out there, wouldn't even believe it possible.

                    Soon they will be affordable by the masses, for home duty, like printing out the latest toy from a catalouge.

                    There are also companies that have mastered, coated iron powder that can be compressed, with heat, into shapes for motor cores, allowing the strength of steel, with no residual magnetism. Unfortunately, the tooling cost is prohibitive for small runs.

                    So 3D printing will make all that obsolete, along with millions of jobs, mainly in China.

                    And of course, just like 2D printing, the toners, i mean filler powders, will be where the mega bucks will be made initially.

                    All sounds a bit Space age hey!

                    Regards Cornboy.
                    Last edited by Cornboy 555; 08-30-2013, 07:14 AM.

                    Comment


                    • Hey Midas

                      Here is a link, John Dolph Co., check out the Dolph-spray aerosols.

                      Coatings, Compounds. Varnish - John C. Dolph Company

                      Comment


                      • Live food.

                        G day again Midas, i was reading in your posted 3D printing article, about astronauts, printing a Pizza to eat, in space, yukoo, can't imagine it has any nourishing life force left in it, after being powdered and printed.

                        Some pics of my wheat crop, hope no one minds me taking up space here.

                        Cornboy.

                        [IMG][/IMG]

                        [IMG][/IMG]

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by wonza View Post
                          Thanks Ufo! That lets me chose which iron to buy.

                          Sorry, I realize there's a lot more involved, I was just wanting confirmation if it would be possible. So eventually we could all have a device like this in our homes powering all our devices without any outside fuel, just a large battery to store the power that gets generated. I know much work would have to be done to get there, but is something like that possible?

                          Also, how would this device work being used purely as a generator? E.g. being turned by wind/wave power? I assume you power get power out of both sides?
                          If there is something with a motor, how to have a vehicle inspection by ourselves?
                          Last edited by DarbyGloss; 09-02-2013, 12:57 AM.

                          Comment


                          • Beautiful FOOD!

                            Real nice Cornman! God's country.
                            Up, Up and Away

                            Comment


                            • Yes Cornboy, that's a nice crop, I already harvested my oats and flax. You must have a small combine? Hey Cornboy, do you actually plant corn?

                              Ordered my steel sheets today, some bearings, and a 2ft long 1 1/2" dia stainless steel rod. 12" x 12" (16ga) sheets, 55 sheets @ 3.30/sheet. The outer stator has an inner diameter of 9 3/4, so hopefully we can use the corners to fab some small stators for the imperial, from leftover corners on plates, have it all cut at once. We'll be needing some of your nice drawings soon UFO, you won't charge me too much, eh UFO?. I may have to wind a few imperials to sell, to pay for this build.

                              The big bearings have 70 mm I'd, and small ones are 40 mm od, so I'll have a 15 mm dia plate to drill and couple drum to imperial.

                              Machine

                              Comment


                              • Thanks Sampojo, i think it's the best job in the world.

                                Hey Machine, my header, is an old JD about 45 years old, with a 100 hp diesel motor. Not a single piece of digital anywhere on it, just a beautifull mechanical monster, that i will be able to keep going Forever. ( Don't tell John Deere i said that )

                                Yes i do grow Corn, i have an extremly late crop that is just on ready to take off now, nearly dry enough. I try to grow all my own grain, to feed free range chickens for eggs.

                                What do you use your grain crops for?, still havn't seen those Maples!.

                                Warm Regards Cornboy.

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