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  • gotoluc
    replied
    Hi everyone,

    I've been busy with some resonance experiments and have not check here for 2 days. I'm sorry to see that we have had a derailing attempt I hope we can all move on since we know we have real results thanks to Greg's and everyone's excellent research, development an implementations. This may not be the last attack... as closer we get, some may try to stop it. Let us be strong and ignore any negative comments or posts with a non reply . Eventually they just go away.

    Thanks Aaron for stepping in.

    and to all

    Luc

    Leave a comment:


  • Chris31
    replied
    @jet

    Not sure if you seen my reply to your previous post but I decided to delete it. I didnt think anyone would be interested in what I do at this time. Ill repost when its complete and have done some proper test on it.

    I dont want my work to be confusing

    Leave a comment:


  • Jetijs
    replied
    Hi DonL,
    I used LTH301-46 optointerrupter. It looks like this:


    But you can use any optoswitch that you can find. Just look at the datasheet of that optoswitch and see the output collector current rating, the higher the better, that means that it can handle more current on the output and will be able to turn on/off more powerful transistors without a need for amplification. Mine can handle 20mA and is used to turn on an optorelay that then triggers the thyristor (SCR). Also look for those optoswitches that have the widest gap between photodiode and phototransistor. Mine has a 3mm gap, but the wider, the easier to work with them

    Leave a comment:


  • dllabarre
    replied
    opto switches

    Originally posted by Jetijs View Post
    So far I haven't had any problems with optoswitches at all. And my generator has run for more than 30 hours for testing. Of course it is a lot easier using reedswitches and magnets, but that is not so precise
    Hi Jetijs

    I know my generator setup is similar to yours.
    Which opto switch are you using?
    Do you have a part number, website to purchase from handy?

    Thank you for all you do for this thread
    DonL

    Leave a comment:


  • WCastle
    replied
    Thank you's and praise

    @Aaron,

    First off, a sincere thank you for starting this thread, the sheer amount of real experiments and replications that have come about as a result of this thread are a testimony to the power of "open source" projects worldwide.


    @Gmeast,

    Greg, your real world experiments in the area of plasma, cdi, enhanced ignition etc... are an inspiration to thousands of experimenters, please do not let some posts which are adverse to your experiments for whatever purpose get you down, keep up the good work.

    Leave a comment:


  • broli
    replied
    Does putting some higher rate diodes at the front and going with smaller/cheapers one at the end help? It would be most economical if it does.

    Leave a comment:


  • Kinetix
    replied
    magnetO, I think that the overvoltage burning of the diodes string is the right explanation. And is very probable that they burn one by one, as insane4evr said.
    As you noticed, the problem occured first at full throttle. Well, at full throttle, the electric resistance of the gas/air mix between the spark plug's electrodes is at it's maximum. That's why it needs max HV and burns the diodes.
    Yes, a good ignition coil can make even more than 35KV. For example, I have an old ignition coil (for experimenting) that makes 25mm (meaning at least 25KV) in open air, and makes sparks that jump between the center (HV) electrode and one of the other two electrodes (plus or minus). Measured, it's more than 30mm of length.
    But in my car (made in 2000) there is a better ignition system, so I have no doubts that at full throttle there are really HV (tens of KV) there...
    I do not have an explanation about Greg's setup working in spite of that. Maybe his ingition coil (being old enough) does not make such high spikes of voltage, and keeps it under 15kV. Or maybe his setup does not allow the HV to raise that much. Maybe his carburetor is running leaner. Maybe...

    To protect the diode string, I think there are two steps to make:
    - first: put enough number of diodes in string (to block at least 30-45KV)
    - second: put a resistor (maybe 500k-1M) in parallel to each diode, so that the HV voltage will divide equally on each one. The "domino effect" will probably cease.

    All the best.
    Last edited by Kinetix; 12-08-2008, 09:43 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • ashtweth
    replied
    Aaron thanks a lot man, its great to have a helping hand , ill emphasize that at the TOP of the forums PDF and add the fixes tonight. That's better then the average hydroxy boost!

    Leave a comment:


  • Aaron
    replied
    Greg's results

    Originally posted by ashtweth View Post
    HI Aaron, i had been away on the weekend, can some one point me to where the figures of 40%+ were achieved(i assume Greg's) with the ignition and water mist? ill add that to the PDF summery, can't seem to find the post. Thanks for the back on track post mate.

    Ash
    Hi Ash,

    direct link: http://www.energeticforum.com/36485-post1941.html

    25mpg on the 1300cc seems to be the best Greg got...with Plasma and moisture - seems to be about 35-36...so 10mpg more per gallon. If I did the math right.

    repost below:

    gmeast
    Senior Member
    Join Date: Aug 2008
    Posts: 323


    Test Report
    Well ........

    I completed my first test run. I drove 300 miles. 65% of that was freeway miles at 55 MPH. The rest was around town, stop and go, my guess is average about 20 MPH - 40 MPH.

    I want to say that the factory hype for this vehicle with the stock 1200 CC engine was 31.5 MPG (U.S.). I had the engine rebuilt - new jugs and pistons - which made it 1300 CC - a bigger engine with much more power - same carb as for the 1200 CC.

    During the test I ran the Vexus Circuit with its own Oscillator and Voltage Multiplier (doubler). I also made a water drip system that forced steam to be aspirated into the carburetor at a set rate (Bug-on-I-V).

    I topped the tank off with 8.44 Gallons of regular gasoline.

    Do the math. Not only did we beat the factory estimate by 13% for the stock 1200 CC engine, we beat it with an even bigger, more powerful 1300 CC engine. We also beat the best mileage I ever got on this engine by 43 %!

    Spark Plugs:

    I did NOT use new spark plugs for this test. The plugs in it are the ones I've been using all along for the bench tests and Vexus Circuit development (in vehicle). I have no real estimate of the 'abuse' miles on these plugs.

    I have included a photo of the #1 spark plug along side a new plug. There HAS been wear, so this needs attention ... maybe a different electrode configuration. The left hand plug is from the bug and gauges at 0.041" and the new plug gauges at 0.029".

    This test has been conclusive on several fronts ... at least for me.


    PLASMA RULES ! ! !


    Peace,

    Greg
    Last edited by Aaron; 12-08-2008, 03:28 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • sigzidfit
    replied
    Props to the MODS

    Trolls and Spooks and Shills oh me oh my!

    If you're not taking flak you're not over the target.

    Don't forget...1420 Mhz

    Peace
    PJ

    Leave a comment:


  • ashtweth
    replied
    HI Aaron, i had been away on the weekend, can some one point me to where the figures of 40%+ were achieved(i assume Greg's) with the ignition and water mist? ill add that to the PDF summery, can't seem to find the post. Thanks for the back on track post mate.

    Ash

    Leave a comment:


  • ashtweth
    replied
    Originally posted by gmeast View Post
    Hi Donkey,

    If you have the intelligence to draw that conclusion then why don't you do us all a favor and set us straight. We would all appreciate it and I'm sure we would all revere you and worship you till the end of time.
    , i got tears in my eyes, and i nearly choked on my drink. This forum is dangerous

    Leave a comment:


  • Ursine
    replied
    Jetijs,

    Thanks I may take you up on the circuit help... my electronics is quite rusty.
    I don't expect the switch to hold up, it's just what I had on hand for a proof of concept.

    Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • Jetijs
    replied
    Originally posted by Chris31 View Post

    I dont think opto is suited for this. Dirts, ambient light may effect the operation, unless its all sealed.
    So far I haven't had any problems with optoswitches at all. And my generator has run for more than 30 hours for testing. Of course it is a lot easier using reedswitches and magnets, but that is not so precise

    Leave a comment:


  • Chris31
    replied
    Originally posted by Ursine View Post
    I just finished the gear reduction for my 4 stroke weed whacker engine. This is similar to Jetijs genset mod. My laser won't cut metal so I made the gears from 3/16 inch acrylic. Sliding the microswitch in the slot allows for timing changes. I don't expect the gears to stand up to any abuse, but it's good for experimenting.
    Unfortunately, I'm having a hard time finding a non-resistor plug to fit the engine. It's got a small diameter and tapered collar(the plug in the video is a typical non resistor lawnmower plug).

    Ready for hho/watermist.

    YouTube - Waterspark1

    Dave
    Some seller on ebay sell the non-resistor plug for mower. Whats the partnumber of the original plug? champion/NGK or equivalent should make the non resistor version.

    Jet is correct about the switch, you are better off using reed+magnet.

    I used hall effect on my setup. Alegro make a few type in SIL/SMD packaging.

    I dont think opto is suited for this. Dirts, ambient light may effect the operation, unless its all sealed.

    Leave a comment:

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