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  • jstadwater
    replied
    OK, I spent most of the day reading in this forum and the one at Overunity and testing every different way I could come up with to hook up this Nexus circuit. In some of the diagrams it was stated "For use with negative HV discharge coils, to use with positive discharge, invert diodes." I tried all that, to no avale. I felt like Clint Eastwood, I turned it every which way but loose!! In my tests, the cap (22uf 250V, couldn't find a 12.5uf) made NO difference in anything, no matter which configuration it was wired in. I even changed the coil configuration to discharge - instead of +, still no good. Each time I flip on the inverter, the "continuous" spark at the plug just sits there going crazy. After about 5 seconds, the inverter starts to squeel so I flip it back off. I never even activated the discharge from the coil during this, since I instantly fried the inverter by discharging the coil into it yesterday. And does anyone know what kind of cap Mr. Bill is using in that video? That thing is huge. Is it a non-pollarized or something, or just really old? I didn't fry any inverters today, came close about 10 or 15 times though! Maybe I need to wait for the 300 1N5408 diodes I ordered to come in before I go any further. If this circuit is to work, maybe it is completely dependant on those specific diodes, I don't know. To me, the schematic just does not make any sense. When I put in the diode to half rectify, in the direction on the schematic, the output from the diode is negative. I don't have a problem with that, reversed makes it measure positive. But the schematic shows to hook that lead to one side of the cap and the other side of the cap to 12V- negative of the battery cable. With both sides of the cap hooked to negative, how's that supposed to work? Also in that config, the main diodes are turned so that the HV+ discharge from the coil just barrells through there and the inverter seems to take a direct hit, pegged my meter each time I flipped it on anyways. If anyone is having any luck with this circuit, please let me know. I can't seem to make heads or tails out of it myself. I'm DONE for the day, I will try to post some pics of my mess on this table here in the morning. Maybe someone can see what my malfunction is. Till then, good day and good luck to all..............................Mike

    Leave a comment:


  • gmeast
    replied
    The Dipole

    Just wait until you see the video I'll be posting in an hour or so. It show the plasma effect occurring WITHOUT the coil arc manifesting ... just the 'stress' that forms the dipole.

    Peace,

    Greg

    Leave a comment:


  • gmeast
    replied
    Originally posted by xpskid View Post
    Greg,

    Thanks a ton for your effort !

    I was pursuing a modular approach with your circuit (page 34, #983) such that I could be charging 5 of the 6 caps at any point in time thus attempting to eliminate the charge pump issue. I'd like to build your new circuit for use on my V6. I'll still need two switches correct? I was thinking I could throw the old distributor back in and utilize the original hall effect switch, but I'll need 2, unless there's room to install another switch 180 out.


    Regards,

    Timm
    Hi Timm,

    You got it! My latest mod solved a lot ... especially the frequency issue. The Nexus circuit will face a similar problem with frequency ... just watch.

    I don't know enough right now to tell you if you will have to build additional circuitry to use with the Hall or not. The Mosfet (charge) side will need a minimum duration for the charge cycle ... very short, but finite. My reed switches give that to me anyway because they are mechanical and are slow by comparison.

    I'm going to make this mod to my '64 VW Bug. I'm very excited about it.

    Thanks for following my progress.

    Peace,

    Greg

    Leave a comment:


  • xpskid
    replied
    Greg,

    Thanks a ton for your effort !

    I was pursuing a modular approach with your circuit (page 34, #983) such that I could be charging 5 of the 6 caps at any point in time thus attempting to eliminate the charge pump issue. I'd like to build your new circuit for use on my V6. I'll still need two switches correct? I was thinking I could throw the old distributor back in and utilize the original hall effect switch, but I'll need 2, unless there's room to install another switch 180 out.


    Regards,

    Timm

    Leave a comment:


  • CPU3rother
    replied
    Cause/Effect

    Originally posted by gmeast View Post
    Hi CPU3rother,

    Now you have discovered the intrigue with the whole plasma spark phenomena. There are so many analyses and opinions floating around out there as to how, why and what causes an apparent huge amount of energy to come from a wimpy little bit of power, it's hard to know what to believe.

    The only explanation I am entertaining is the craziest sounding, free energy explanation. And that is: ... the charge created across the gap on the spark plug creates a DIPOLE, and thus a path, for untapped energy residing in the (get this) vortex, void, aether, seething vacuum ... and many other names ... to enter via the spark plug gap. The diodes steer the charge away from ground so the dipole can stabilize and give us the effect. Or something like that. Since no other plausible explanation has been presented that I can understand, I'm stuck buying into this one.

    Or it could be a violent collision in the spark gap like you propose.


    Greg

    Leave a comment:


  • gmeast
    replied
    equivalent circuit

    Hi all,

    I know most questions relate to the Nexus circuit now. But for the sake of those interested in understanding what I have posted I have included a diagram showing the equivalent circuit using a simple single relay. If this helps in the understanding then I'm glad.

    Peace,

    Greg

    Leave a comment:


  • gmeast
    replied
    Originally posted by Jetijs View Post
    Hi all.
    Today I tested my generator some more, but I can't get the RPM's constant and smooth as it is with the stock ignition and magneto setup. I suppose the 50Hz AC from the variac is to blame for this, also I can see the light bulb getting brighter and dimmer in a wave fashion. This is also a sign that the 50Hz is causing trouble, because this way the caps are not always charged up to the same voltage. And this is without a booster side. I guess I will have to make a DC to DC step up converter that works at much higher frequency to solve this problem.

    .................................................. .........

    What do you guys think?
    Hi Jetijs,

    As you already noticed, frequency is a problem. The Nexus circuit will have this problem too. I have a switch that charges the Cap and a switch that discharges the Cap. I was going to build a Hi Freq inverter or DC-DC pump. Instead I changed my charge switch to a Mosfet and added a storage Cap on the FWB. I posted this diagram.

    Keep pluggin' along. Peace,

    Greg

    Leave a comment:


  • Jetijs
    replied
    Hi all.
    Today I tested my generator some more, but I can't get the RPM's constant and smooth as it is with the stock ignition and magneto setup. I suppose the 50Hz AC from the variac is to blame for this, also I can see the light bulb getting brighter and dimmer in a wave fashion. This is also a sign that the 50Hz is causing trouble, because this way the caps are not always charged up to the same voltage. And this is without a booster side. I guess I will have to make a DC to DC step up converter that works at much higher frequency to solve this problem.

    Anyway, I decided to try a different test. I wanted just to attach the LV side to the stock ignition coil at stock timings and see what happens. At first it was not working, because the HV impulse form the stock ignition coil was with a negative polarity, so I switched the LV side wires around. At first I just wanted to see if it will work with the LV side connected, but not turned ON. I was very surprised when I heard an increase in the RPM just by plugging the LV side voltage quadrupler into the variac, because the variac was NOT plugged in the wall outlet. When I pulled the quadrupler leads out of the variac, the RPM's decreased. I did this several times and every time it worked the same. This is the schematic I used:


    If we look at the diagram, we see that all the diodes already form the basic water spark circuit by blocking the ignition coil negative HV output to ground, so why does the effect happen only if the quadrupler is connected to the variac?

    Here is a video about this:
    YouTube - Stock ignition boosted/not boosted with LV side

    What do you guys think?

    Leave a comment:


  • gmeast
    replied
    Updated Multiple Spark Plug Diagram

    Hi everyone,

    I'm not sure if this will be of use for the Nexus style circuit but I solved the frequency issue for my type of CDI producing your water spark effect.

    It needs to be said that my circuit triggering method is NOT what you would put in a vehicle. The proper technique is either Hall effect or optical chopper on the distributor shaft.

    The diagram below solves my frequency issue by replacing the Charge Triac with a Charge Power Mosfet. I also added a 470 uf x 400 VDC Cap shown right under the FWB. This makes a DC power supply of sorts. The circuit has never been more stable. I am so happy!.

    To anyone looking to experiment with a multiple spark plug CDI Plasma system, this is a very stable configuration. In 'real' CDI systems the charge side is usually more sophisticated but the big Cap, FWB and Power Mosfet has solved several technical challenges using easily obtained components.

    Enjoy. Peace,

    Greg

    Leave a comment:


  • gmeast
    replied
    How it works????????

    Hi CPU3rother,

    Now you have discovered the intrigue with the whole plasma spark phenomena. There are so many analyses and opinions floating around out there as to how, why and what causes an apparent huge amount of energy to come from a wimpy little bit of power, it's hard to know what to believe.

    The only explanation I am entertaining is the craziest sounding, free energy explanation. And that is: ... the charge created across the gap on the spark plug creates a DIPOLE, and thus a path, for untapped energy residing in the (get this) vortex, void, aether, seething vacuum ... and many other names ... to enter via the spark plug gap. The diodes steer the charge away from ground so the dipole can stabilize and give us the effect. Or something like that. Since no other plausible explanation has been presented that I can understand, I'm stuck buying into this one.

    Or it could be a violent collision in the spark gap like you propose.

    %#$!@*&=+?. < That's what I think it is.

    Peace,

    Greg

    Leave a comment:


  • CPU3rother
    replied
    Cause/Effect

    Originally posted by gmeast View Post
    Hi,

    The key says 1 & 2 are ground straps. 1 comes from the battery and it is located on the - minus on the battery symbol. So it seems like 'Negative Ground'.

    Peace,

    Greg

    Leave a comment:


  • CPU3rother
    replied
    Originally posted by lapperl View Post
    Not sure if it will help any, I know I had a hard time making heads or tails out of it. But here is a link for VW wiring diagrams. If I am reading it correctly, then the VW has a negative grounding system.

    Maybe someone else can decipher the diagram?

    Google Image Result for http://www.vintagebus.com/wiring/bus-66.jpg

    LapperL
    According to this the 76 bus uses a negative ground.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ansis Freimanis
    replied
    To All

    Dear, friends!
    Its time to finish speak about spark plugs with, or w/a resistors and of resembling (destroying) spark plugs. Here is a link to LARGE NGK catalogue. In this catalogue all of you can find what you need- info about types of plugs, how to read numbers on the body of plugs and types of resistor and resistor less plugs. And after it you can by what you need in every automobile store. Don’t make live stupid! These plugs are cheep and very good quality. I find in Latvia a big dealer and buy what I need. And you can do it similar. Link: http://www.ngkntk.ru/index.php?id=43...ash=3cf86cbd5c

    Leave a comment:


  • lapperl
    replied
    Originally posted by gmeast View Post
    Hi,

    The key says 1 & 2 are ground straps. 1 comes from the battery and it is located on the - minus on the battery symbol. So it seems like 'Negative Ground'.

    Peace,

    Greg
    Thanks, that's what I thought.

    Received my diodes today hopefully if time permits, I will have the circuit assembled for testing this weekend.


    LapperL

    Leave a comment:


  • gmeast
    replied
    wiring

    Originally posted by lapperl View Post
    Not sure if it will help any, I know I had a hard time making heads or tails out of it. But here is a link for VW wiring diagrams. If I am reading it correctly, then the VW has a negative grounding system.

    Maybe someone else can decipher the diagram?

    Google Image Result for http://www.vintagebus.com/wiring/bus-66.jpg

    LapperL
    Hi,

    The key says 1 & 2 are ground straps. 1 comes from the battery and it is located on the - minus on the battery symbol. So it seems like 'Negative Ground'.

    Peace,

    Greg

    Leave a comment:

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