Water Sparkplug

[jstadwater]

@Greg

Could you tell me where to order one of those variable power resistors like you have? I keep thinking that I'm going to flip the power on one time too many and this light bulb is going to kick the bucket.

Thanks..................................Mike

[jstadwater]

Hey Guys,

Got all my ordered parts in today. Wired up four, 450V 4.7uF caps in series, 2 each side, then paralleled them together (4.7uF good for 900V right?). Spinning at 4,200 rpm, lowest speed of the 1/4HP motor, I got a really intense bright effect at the plugs and bigger plasma than the 1uF cap in my last vid. But, it lit up my 100 watt bulb solid and I still got heat at the caps. No heat at the diodes though. It was REAL intense with a 22uF cap instead, but it heated up enough to feel it just spinning it by hand. Spun at 4,200 rpm for 30 seconds w/22uF, cap was 155 deg. F, diodes were 97 deg. F, bulb (as resistor) was really bright. Could this be due to a real need for a variable resistor? I think I will go back to the 4.7uF bank and see exactly how hot it gets. The caps I got are rated for 5,000 hours at 105 deg. Celcius (221 Fahrenheit). Ordered the best ones I could find. Back in a few........................Mike

BTW, the spark plug ends still remain UNCHANGED in temperature even after I fired it with the 22uF cap. Shot them with the laser before, during, and after.....NO change.

[Gibs]

Hi.
I wanted to make fuel ecconomy tests on my gas generator to see how much fuel I can save by attaching the vexus circuit to it. The problem is that I can not get the engine to run when the variac is turned ON. My gas generator currently has the original magneto ignition on default timings, so no primary winding in the ignition coil. It outputs a negative HV pulse. I attached the vexus circuit to it using a string of 18 1N5408 diodes. At first I powered the generator on and let it run for a while. Then I turned on the variac at zero volts. Everything worked the same, but as soon as I increase the voltage of the variac to about 40-50v, the generator starts to slow down and choke till it stops. The diode arrangement is correct, because if I wire it the other way around, I can not even start the generator - there is no spark at all. Might it be that the LV side is discharging through the secondary winding of the ignition coil when it is not firing and thus disturb the original spark form appearing?

Hi Jetijs,

Basically, I think you are right about LV side discharging through the coil winding.

When your magnet approaches the coil, there is a positive pulse building up and when it leaves the coil then you get the negative back EMF spike that creates the spark.
The coil voltage might not be free to "swing" back and forth.

Have you tried to connect another HV diode in series with the coil output?

Keep up the good work.

Keep in mind that this test is performed discharging ONLY a single, 1.06uF capacitor with no "storage" cap. So the spark is a bit weaker than it will be when my ordered parts arrive. I will change to a 4.7uF as soon as they arrive via UPS, should be tomorrow. I am using a voltage doubler circuit with a pair of 120uF 330V flash caps, output is 326VDC. This test was performed at 5,800 RPM, decided to go ahead and step it up. I figure it will either GO or BLOW! There should be NO reason you would need to tach up a Chevy 350 to 5,800 rpm, but IF I do decide to, at least I'll know I'm still stable. As I mentioned in my last post, none of the components were even warm to the touch. This is so much fun, it can hardly be considered work! Anyway, here's the U-tube link.

VexUs plasma--V-8 HEI--5,800 RPM
I forgot to spray water mist on it, I'll do that next time..............Mike

Congratulations Mike!
Your last vid is really inspiring, I imagine with more uF...

Thanks for sharing.

[jstadwater]

Hey Greg,

I'm glad my progress has convinced you to up your voltage as well. Proud is a good word to use too, seeing this thing take off is almost like watching your boy score his first touchdown! Can't wait to see the "BUG" results with higher voltage, How's it coming? UPS says my isolation transformer and all my diodes and caps will arrive today. I should at least have this hooked up to an inverter on the bench today, maybe even in the Suburban if bench work goes well. This is, by far, the most versatile and easy system available to build. Mods are so easy, practically effortless. So again, thank you and everyone else who has contributed to this technology!!


Chat later..........................Mike

[jstadwater]

Hey Greg,

It does really feel good to have this circuit perform the way it does at such a high rpm. It would not be such if not for all the great guys here on this forum! Thanks to everyone sharing and trying new things, we will go even further with this circuit. I think my V-8 running 5,800 rpm pretty much means there's no way you could max it out with a 4 cylinder, not unless you cranked out more than 11,000 rpm!

I DO have all my "kick wires" hooked straight to the end of the spark plugs instead of the distributor cap, stock plug wires are not an issue that way. The plugs I use are Champion, but "Copper Marine" instead of automotive. The # is 827 M L76V. Since boaters now use a wide variety of engines, all you need to know is the thread length and thread pattern to fit your engine. I really think we can ignore the factory rated "heat range" for OUR application, just make sure the threaded end is not long enough to hit the piston, wouldn't want that! The "effect" is MUCH better with these plugs vs. the regular Champion plugs. Greg, could you tell me where to order one of those variable power resistors you use, so I can get away from this 100 watt light bulb? I don't know how much more this bulb is going to be able to handle. It may pop tomorrow when I change up to 4.7uF on the discharge capacitence, we will see.... I will be testing this installed on a chevy 350 engine as soon as my other parts arrive. How cool that the two of us are rapidly advancing this, you in sunny California and me in sunny Florida!! My GTA Trans-Am is next in line after the boss's Suburban. My Trans-Am is currently rev-limited at about 5,000 rpm to keep the valves from floating, WELL within the obvious range of this circuit! We'll see what can be obtained then from a flat out performance standpoint. She's already fast, but then.......fast enough never really was fast enough for me.

Later...........................................Mi ke

[gmeast]

Send images

Hi Greg,

I'm using solid copper plug wires, a cheap HP set from the local auto shop.
I used 18 ga stranded copper wire to my diode sets. I pushed the plug wire and 18 ga wire through the boot, stripped the end of the plug wire and twisted it together with the 18 ga wire, then folded it to the side and crimped on the metal ends (Distributor end). I left extra wire to reach the mounting location of the diode strings (underside of the hood). I don't have video, but I can take some still images if that would help anyone.

All my plugs so far are modified Champions. Extended and sanded springs, and used brass plugs in place of the resistors. I'll swing by the auto shop and see what they have "out of the box".

"Upping" C1 ?, do you mean capacitance ? I have two 47uF in series, halving the capacitance. I can take one out and bring it back to 47.

I'll get better DI water and try a couple different atomizers too.

One safety learning to share, remember this compressed spark with arc farther than the normal spark. I had the engine up and running and pulled a plug wire to connect and external plug for reference. That spark needs to go somewhere and immediately started jumped between diode strings and also to the mounting screws of the block. I provided more separation between diodes and potted the mounted screws.

Thanks for your help,

Timm

Hi Timm,

Send some images and we'll try and see what's the matter. It's gotta' be something basic.

Greg

[gmeast]

high speed test

Keep in mind that this test is performed discharging ONLY a single, 1.06uF capacitor with no "storage" cap. So the spark is a bit weaker than it will be when my ordered parts arrive. I will change to a 4.7uF as soon as they arrive via UPS, should be tomorrow. I am using a voltage doubler circuit with a pair of 120uF 330V flash caps, output is 326VDC. This test was performed at 5,800 RPM, decided to go ahead and step it up. I figure it will either GO or BLOW! There should be NO reason you would need to tach up a Chevy 350 to 5,800 rpm, but IF I do decide to, at least I'll know I'm still stable. As I mentioned in my last post, none of the components were even warm to the touch. This is so much fun, it can hardly be considered work! Anyway, here's the U-tube link.

VexUs plasma--V-8 HEI--5,800 RPM
I forgot to spray water mist on it, I'll do that next time..............Mike

Hi Mike,

Your test make me feel so proud. I am now going to step up my voltage too. The VexUs circuit sure makes it easy to modify. Thanks for sharing.

Greg

[jstadwater]

Hey Jetijs,

Don't know if I can be of much help or not. I have a single cylinder lawn mower with the same magneto setup you described, I may start testing on it later this week. Can you verify the spark w/the plug removed and spinning over the engine, with full voltage from the variac? If so, it may possibly be that when you are turning up the variac with the engine already running, you are slowly creating too much down-force on the piston as the spark grows and grows. Maybe try retarding the timing some and see if you can get to more variac voltage before it starts to bog down. That would at least allow you to rule out that as a possible cause. I think I remember your generator having the timing adjustment capability you created, right? Or is that a different one? Just running some thoughts by you......................Mike

[jstadwater]

My latest VexUs video..........

Keep in mind that this test is performed discharging ONLY a single, 1.06uF capacitor with no "storage" cap. So the spark is a bit weaker than it will be when my ordered parts arrive. I will change to a 4.7uF as soon as they arrive via UPS, should be tomorrow. I am using a voltage doubler circuit with a pair of 120uF 330V flash caps, output is 326VDC. This test was performed at 5,800 RPM, decided to go ahead and step it up. I figure it will either GO or BLOW! There should be NO reason you would need to tach up a Chevy 350 to 5,800 rpm, but IF I do decide to, at least I'll know I'm still stable. As I mentioned in my last post, none of the components were even warm to the touch. This is so much fun, it can hardly be considered work! Anyway, here's the U-tube link.

VexUs plasma--V-8 HEI--5,800 RPM
I forgot to spray water mist on it, I'll do that next time..............Mike

[Jetijs]

Hi.
I wanted to make fuel ecconomy tests on my gas generator to see how much fuel I can save by attaching the vexus circuit to it. The problem is that I can not get the engine to run when the variac is turned ON. My gas generator currently has the original magneto ignition on default timings, so no primary winding in the ignition coil. It outputs a negative HV pulse. I attached the vexus circuit to it using a string of 18 1N5408 diodes. At first I powered the generator on and let it run for a while. Then I turned on the variac at zero volts. Everything worked the same, but as soon as I increase the voltage of the variac to about 40-50v, the generator starts to slow down and choke till it stops. The diode arrangement is correct, because if I wire it the other way around, I can not even start the generator - there is no spark at all. Might it be that the LV side is discharging through the secondary winding of the ignition coil when it is not firing and thus disturb the original spark form appearing?

This is how the setup looks like:

[xpskid]

Hi Timm,

I'm using single diodes only for the first test on the Bug. They get a little warm. The 'quads' I have won't wire directly in because the spade connectors are opposite.

Do your diodes go right to the plugs? I have solid wire plug cables so I can connect via the distributor. Is your wire jumpers in the modified plugs squeezed good and tight when you reassemble? Try using a store bought non-resistor plug for your water test. Try 'upping' C1 slightly.

Greg

Hi Greg,

I'm using solid copper plug wires, a cheap HP set from the local auto shop.
I used 18 ga stranded copper wire to my diode sets. I pushed the plug wire and 18 ga wire through the boot, stripped the end of the plug wire and twisted it together with the 18 ga wire, then folded it to the side and crimped on the metal ends (Distributor end). I left extra wire to reach the mounting location of the diode strings (underside of the hood). I don't have video, but I can take some still images if that would help anyone.

All my plugs so far are modified Champions. Extended and sanded springs, and used brass plugs in place of the resistors. I'll swing by the auto shop and see what they have "out of the box".

"Upping" C1 ?, do you mean capacitance ? I have two 47uF in series, halving the capacitance. I can take one out and bring it back to 47.

I'll get better DI water and try a couple different atomizers too.

One safety learning to share, remember this compressed spark with arc farther than the normal spark. I had the engine up and running and pulled a plug wire to connect and external plug for reference. That spark needs to go somewhere and immediately started jumped between diode strings and also to the mounting screws of the block. I provided more separation between diodes and potted the mounted screws.

Thanks for your help,

Timm

[jstadwater]

Hey Guys,

GREAT test just completed, video coming in a few minutes! I just spun this thing at 4,070 rpm, she performed like a brand new Singer sewing machine!!! I am charging at 326V, no "storage" cap (I will add one later), 1.06uf MW cap for discharge (will change to four 4.7uf caps, 2 ea. wired series then paralleled together), and a 100 watt light bulb as the resistor (only thing I have on hand). One 12KV microwave diode per spark plug. I ran the test for a few minutes, way longer than my other tests, and there was NO detectable heat anywhere throughout the components!! I can go faster, the next pulley on the motor's wheel takes me to over 6,000 rpm, a little scary but maybe I'll go there next! Inquiring minds want to know. My own mind mainly. Well, I'm off to set up the video, see yall in a few.....................................Mike

[gmeast]

diode

Great Job Greg !

Another fine video to share and inspire everyone.

Questions: Are you running only one diode per cylinder on this set-up ?
I've never been able to get a good flash by spraying water. Any advice here ?
I'm using Champion plugs for the ease of removing the resistor, but when I spray water, it simply arcs backwards, following the insulator back into the center of the plug core. I've tried a couple atomizers, and both well and DI water.

Regards,

Timm

Hi Timm,

I'm using single diodes only for the first test on the Bug. They get a little warm. The 'quads' I have won't wire directly in because the spade connectors are opposite.

Do your diodes go right to the plugs? I have solid wire plug cables so I can connect via the distributor. Is your wire jumpers in the modified plugs squeezed good and tight when you reassemble? Try using a store bought non-resistor plug for your water test. Try 'upping' C1 slightly.

Greg

[gmeast]

installation

Thanks Gibs, for that capacitence analogy.

Here's my intention, I will be using a pair of 120uf 450V caps in the doubler circuit. That would give me a total output capacitence of 60uf. I don't plan to go over a 10uf cap for discharge, that should allow me to use say, a 47uf cap to "store and feed" energy to the discharge cap safely. I will probably end up using a 4.7uf discharge cap, since I am now charging with 326V instead of 110V. Less capacitence and more voltage ABSOLUTELY does give a better effect at the plug. I ran out of time yesterday, but will have my variable speed motor set up shortly to see just how fast I can spin this V-8 HEI distributor and still get plasma. I will post a vid when I finish the test.

@Greg
Great work again man!! Loved the simplicity and straight forward BUG video, very cool stuff!!! I have lots of diodes, caps, isolation transformers, variacs, and stuff coming. I'll be installing the VexUs into a 350 Suburban hopefully by the end of the week! Later...............................Mike

Hi Mike,

You are ambitious! More power to you. I like that you are not afraid to try things! I will be stepping up the voltage soon (just chicken right now) and the VexUs makes this easier to experiment with.

Best to you,

Greg

[gmeast]

choke

Greg,
awesome video as usual
Can you test if this vexus circuit works just like your previous one? I mean if this circuit also has the same effect on your choke and timings? Because yesterday I tried this in my car and I still needed to use the choke till the engine warms up, no matter if I used the boosted spark or not. But I did hear the idle RPM's go up just a bit when the plasma was turned ON and also I could hear a clicking sound from the boosted sparks in the engine block, that disappeared when the plasma was turned off, leaving just an ordinary spark
Thanks,
Jetijs.

Hi Jetijs,

I'm in Southern California and cold here isn't really cold for everyone. But I My Bug always has needed some choking to get going. This morning I stuffed all of the Vexus Hybrid circuit into the engine compartment and tried to start the engine 'plasma off', gave it one pump of gas and "no go". I tried again and sputter, sputter, etc but "no go". Turned on the plasma 'on' and it started right up, slow but smooth, steady idle. Turned the plasma off and the engine stalled. Turned it back on and it started. Acted much like the earlier plasma CDI circuit.

Your "clicking" sounds like some broken down insulation on the wires or moisture around the spark plug area. With the plasma there is probably more energy to jump any potential gap.

I'm still trying to characterize the circuit ... it's simple but different!

Peace,

Greg