"SALES INFO" Essential HHO "Booster" Components

[Redmeanie]

Assembled.....

Proof that ANY Of YOU SHOULD be able to build these kits!

This was completely, well with a little help, Built By My 8 Yr old (Well she says almost 9 ) Daughter. Not Perfect but PRETTY Darn Good!

We used 60/40 solder and some helping hands to hold the board. Also be sure to use your heatsink clip on the transistors!

I think she did an AWESOME Job!

[Redmeanie]

Redmeanie

Are you planning on making the board files and schematics available to members here? I'd like to give a crack at etching my own PCB just for the fun of it. I've done it before using a toner transfer with photo paper. I made an air/fuel gauge and it worked well. I was going to do it with chemelec's design but I'd rather use yours if you've made improvements.

Sure just email me, [email protected]. I will send you what I have. Also is that Fuel Mixture Board one from the net, with a PCB layout included?
If so when you email me send that along and I can add that to the kits.

Thanks,
Lee

[Redmeanie]

I just corrected the Boards....Any one who has ordered that want new ones that have additional Solder Pads to fit the newer Pot Trimmers, Just PM me and I will mail you a set as soon as I can etch them.

[cyberphreax]

Redmeanie

Are you planning on making the board files and schematics available to members here? I'd like to give a crack at etching my own PCB just for the fun of it. I've done it before using a toner transfer with photo paper. I made an air/fuel gauge and it worked well. I was going to do it with chemelec's design but I'd rather use yours if you've made improvements.

[Redmeanie]

Redmeanie... the 250kOhm pot is of a smaller size than the standard PWM board was designed for.
The circuit builder should retain any wire clippings from resistors and solder one to the wiper post and use it to reach the solder pad. the others two are close enough to make fit with some bending of the posts. This is similar in implementation as the wire jumper the standard PWM requires.

Hope this helps someone.

Kind regards
Tuxair

I should have Noticed that!

I forgot the board was designed around older type Pot Trimmers. I will modify the tracks and solder pads.

Thanks Tux!

[TuxAir]

Redmeanie... the 250kOhm pot is of a smaller size than the standard PWM board was designed for.
The circuit builder should retain any wire clippings from resistors and solder one to the wiper post and use it to reach the solder pad. the others two are close enough to make fit with some bending of the posts. This is similar in implementation as the wire jumper the standard PWM requires.

Hope this helps someone.

Kind regards
Tuxair

[Redmeanie]

Update!!!

Added to the listing above....

TIPS:

PLEASE READ

And let me know if I need to add something!

[TuxAir]

snipped...

Also, what size holes, or do I just need to size them individually...you know most of the resistors will use one size and even some of the ic's and transistors. But do the switches need bigger ones. I haven't actually pulled any of the components out of the bags yet, because I was getting my rig set up. I have a dremel with a sort of drill press rig(they call it a workstation). Also, where did the boards come from...i.e. what are they made of? The reason for asking is because I've read that you need to use cobalt bits to drill pcb's because they eat up even high speed steel bits, but I saw that you recomended the regular dremel bits.

If you are looking for a "size", I used #60 and #55 plain old high speed bits. they worked fine.
#60 fits pretty much every component, so I completely drilled the boards with it, upsizing as I went along. For example the heatsink posts on the regular PWM needed upsizing.

[Redmeanie]

You sir, are the man. All the advice so far is good and welcome. Two more quick questions and one small comment, and I'll leave you alone until I play for a bit. The tracks on all the boards are the same color, so does that mean that they all are tinned, or will the silver come off of the ones I clean with acetone?

What kind of wattage am I looking at for a pencil iron, or(since I happen to have one)what kind of temperature works best with these boards with a digital station?

I'm going to have to at least try the drill press set up since it's a new toy. I don't happen to have the foot pedal, but I almost did, and now it's looking likely that in the future, IT WILL BE MINE. (hmmm...I don't see an emoticon for a comically sinister laugh).

Thanks for the help.

I may have sent you all tinned boards. I just took what was left over from the batch and divided them up amongst all the orders. In that case you got LUCKY! Just pick out the best looking ones to keep for the actual build and practice on the others. If they are tinned just wash them with warm soapy water and they are ready....

A 35 watt will work, not the best but for what we are doing here it's fine. Like you I have a variable station and unfortunately it varies with Different Solders. The key is just to get one solder you like, stick with it and make a note. I know many guys who will only use one name brand, one type, one version. I on the other hand use what ever I happen to come across.
Just practice with a spare board and you will see how simple it gets once you have your settings and get the hang of soldering again. Its just like the Proto Boards you have used before, I think even easier, especially being pre-tinned.

On the drill press, still make sure to extend the bit out only about 1/4". Also you will see it is very difficult to try and line up the holes because it kinda gets in the way. But Hey I know what you mean, it's a new toy so give it a shot!

The pedals, Harbor Freight has them on sale this week for $9.99 so if you have a local one, they are worth it. I have 3 of them and NO problems yet!

[gashouse24326]

You sir, are the man. All the advice so far is good and welcome. Two more quick questions and one small comment, and I'll leave you alone until I play for a bit. The tracks on all the boards are the same color, so does that mean that they all are tinned, or will the silver come off of the ones I clean with acetone?

What kind of wattage am I looking at for a pencil iron, or(since I happen to have one)what kind of temperature works best with these boards with a digital station?

I'm going to have to at least try the drill press set up since it's a new toy. I don't happen to have the foot pedal, but I almost did, and now it's looking likely that in the future, IT WILL BE MINE. (hmmm...I don't see an emoticon for a comically sinister laugh).

Thanks for the help.

[Redmeanie]

Thanks Red. I knew that the stuff that was on the other boards was something that could be cleaned, I just didn't know how. And one thing that I wasn't sure of was the color of the tracks on the different boards. It doesn't look like copper, but I'm kind of new to pcb work. I was going to use some of the extras to practice, but I wanted to clean them first.

Also, what size holes, or do I just need to size them individually...you know most of the resistors will use one size and even some of the ic's and transistors. But do the switches need bigger ones. I haven't actually pulled any of the components out of the bags yet, because I was getting my rig set up. I have a dremel with a sort of drill press rig(they call it a workstation). Also, where did the boards come from...i.e. what are they made of? The reason for asking is because I've read that you need to use cobalt bits to drill pcb's because they eat up even high speed steel bits, but I saw that you recomended the regular dremel bits.

Sorry to be such a pain, but like I've said before, I've only done projects before using breadboards or simple grid style pc boards.

Ooooh...one more quick thing...any advice for soldering the larger guage wire to the mosfets? Does it need to be soldered directly to one of the pins, or are there connections in the printed circuit?

Ok,
The silver tracked boards have been "Pre-Tinned" under that layer is the copper. You definetly DON'T want to practice with these. Clean the spares and practice straight to the copper tracks. Once you have that down, soldering to the tinned boards will be a Snap!

Finding the right size bits can be a pain. Thats why I chose to tell about the Dremel Bits. The smallest one works fine, and the next size up will work for just about everything else. Also with the Dremel bits you want to wrap a small piece of electrical tape above the Bladed Part and only extend out about a 1/4" if you try and drill with a fully extended bit, the little ones will snap right off. Also forget the stand, just do it by hand trust me! And if you have a pedal, its even easier. Just line up the bit, tap the pedal and you are through!
Also You will notice the "Good" Boards Are Thin (0.03) I chose to go this route so none of you would have to buy expensive hard to find bits. And the Boards are made out of CEM if you still wanted to know that part....

The Single Mosfet Board is fine just running through the PCB. The off Board Mosfets are a different story. You notice the Diagram I sent with it, WIRE IT Exactly as it is.
When Soldering wire directly to the Mosfet you definetly want
to use a Heat Sink Clamp (Funny little aluminum clip that comes with most soldering Irons) Solder As Quick as Possible! I have even just stuck the leges inside the insulation of the wire and soldered just the very top of the wire to the leg. This works very good and provides insulation. Just be careful not to damage the legs or Mosfet while doing it. Heat the Insulation Slightly it helps.

Let me know if you need anything else!

[gashouse24326]

Thanks Red. I knew that the stuff that was on the other boards was something that could be cleaned, I just didn't know how. And one thing that I wasn't sure of was the color of the tracks on the different boards. It doesn't look like copper, but I'm kind of new to pcb work. I was going to use some of the extras to practice, but I wanted to clean them first.

Also, what size holes, or do I just need to size them individually...you know most of the resistors will use one size and even some of the ic's and transistors. But do the switches need bigger ones. I haven't actually pulled any of the components out of the bags yet, because I was getting my rig set up. I have a dremel with a sort of drill press rig(they call it a workstation). Also, where did the boards come from...i.e. what are they made of? The reason for asking is because I've read that you need to use cobalt bits to drill pcb's because they eat up even high speed steel bits, but I saw that you recomended the regular dremel bits.

Sorry to be such a pain, but like I've said before, I've only done projects before using breadboards or simple grid style pc boards.

Ooooh...one more quick thing...any advice for soldering the larger guage wire to the mosfets? Does it need to be soldered directly to one of the pins, or are there connections in the printed circuit?

[Redmeanie]

Ok. Got the kit on Saturday and everything looks pretty darn good. I'm ready to get started, but I do have one quandary. What kind of prep needs to be done to the boards. The cut ones look pretty clean, but the spares have some kind of something on them. I know that the holes need to be drilled, the pieces inserted and soldered, but any general info on pre and post solder board work would be appreciated.

The spares with the Blue Film on them just need to be wiped down with acetone when you need them. I left it on the spares because it keeps the copper from corroding as long as its on there....

As far as prepping the Tinned Boards, just drill the holes, and clean with soapy water and you are good to go!

While soldering Boards I use a "Fine" Pencil Point Tip. It only takes a drop of solder to mount a component leg so there is no need to go overboard. Use some thin gauge solder also.

Use one of your spare boards and practice first. Get your soldering skills tuned here first. Practice until you know exactly how your Soldering Iron and the type of Solder you are using work together. Play with it until you can get a perfect little "Solder Pad" onto each component leg pad. To get an idea what you are shooting for, just look at the bottom of any random PC board with components mounted. Its really trial and error, but its also like riding a bike. Once you get the hang of it, it will be easy to do in the future.

[gashouse24326]

Ok. Got the kit on Saturday and everything looks pretty darn good. I'm ready to get started, but I do have one quandary. What kind of prep needs to be done to the boards. The cut ones look pretty clean, but the spares have some kind of something on them. I know that the holes need to be drilled, the pieces inserted and soldered, but any general info on pre and post solder board work would be appreciated.

[TuxAir]

Not a problem RedMeanie! Lots of small parts!

I started working on the howto's but nothing is near ready yet. I will not be able to work on them this week. My son is having surgery (second cochlear implant) and I will pretty much have him sitting on my lap this week But they will be forthcoming!

@ashtweth... When ready I will contact you via PM. Thank you for your offer!