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Bedini Ferris Wheel Regauging Motor

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  • Ron Chase
    replied
    Originally posted by minoly View Post
    When I hook up my K08A's that way, they just cascade over - no build up then dump - only energy over like a waterfall Of course I did it both ways right out of the box, even tried it on the input - no go for mine.
    I'm glad yours work.
    Patrick

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  • Ron Chase
    replied
    Ssr

    Patrick,

    Yes the SSR is Mouser Part# 528-6312AXXMDS-DC3 and also available from Allied.

    Ron

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  • minoly
    replied
    Originally posted by Ron Chase View Post
    Thanks Vissey.

    Patrick,

    I think I will have to get a video camera soon! Any one want to trade a video camera for a 3-pole kit fully assembled and a NS window motor kit also fully assembled?

    I've attached a pdf showing the circuit using a Magnecraft 6312XXMDS-DC3 but as I note on the schematic almost any DC load SSR will work. You just need to get the polarity hooked up right. I've tried 2 different SSR's and they both work great and it also works with IRFP260 FET's. It does work just the way John B says but I think you'll be surprised when you hook it up and start looking for large increments of cap dump voltage. I won't spoil it for you right now you'll just have to give it a try. When will your wheel be completed? Its going to be awesome.

    Yes, I think we should be > 1:1 with just the monopole coils, thats been proven many times. I have several issues with my wheel not the least being my coils are undersized (to little impedance is not good) so, I will be working to improve its performance.

    After looking at the Ferris Wheel technical information DVD about 10 times over the weekend, I've come to realize the important role the re-gauging motor plays when the monopole is running. It provides a load on the shaft to keep the monopole from running wild (huge torque) and at the same time its also putting additional energy into the cap so we can get 2:1 performance or better. One can detune the monopole to run without a load but I'm going for as much charging as possible so it looks like I'll be building a re-gauging motor in the near future.

    Ron
    When I hook up my K08A's that way, they just cascade over - no build up then dump - only energy over like a waterfall Of course I did it both ways right out of the box, even tried it on the input - no go for mine.
    I'm glad yours work.
    Patrick

    Leave a comment:


  • Ron Chase
    replied
    Originally posted by minoly View Post
    Ron,
    nice wheel! can we have a vid tour? :-)
    are you using this Magnecraft SSR, Mouser part# 528-6312AXXMDS-DC3
    and are you using your earlier schematic from here http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post185078 to switch it?
    or is it working straight up as John B says with the breakdown voltage?
    or some other way?
    shouldn't we be over 1:1 w/o the center hub generator?
    Thanks,
    Patrick
    Thanks Vissey.

    Patrick,

    I think I will have to get a video camera soon! Any one want to trade a video camera for a 3-pole kit fully assembled and a NS window motor kit also fully assembled?

    I've attached a pdf showing the circuit using a Magnecraft 6312XXMDS-DC3 but as I note on the schematic almost any DC load SSR will work. You just need to get the polarity hooked up right. I've tried 2 different SSR's and they both work great and it also works with IRFP260 FET's. It does work just the way John B says but I think you'll be surprised when you hook it up and start looking for large increments of cap dump voltage. I won't spoil it for you right now you'll just have to give it a try. When will your wheel be completed? Its going to be awesome.

    Yes, I think we should be > 1:1 with just the monopole coils, thats been proven many times. I have several issues with my wheel not the least being my coils are undersized (to little impedance is not good) so, I will be working to improve its performance.

    After looking at the Ferris Wheel technical information DVD about 10 times over the weekend, I've come to realize the important role the re-gauging motor plays when the monopole is running. It provides a load on the shaft to keep the monopole from running wild (huge torque) and at the same time its also putting additional energy into the cap so we can get 2:1 performance or better. One can detune the monopole to run without a load but I'm going for as much charging as possible so it looks like I'll be building a re-gauging motor in the near future.

    Ron
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • minoly
    replied
    Originally posted by Ron Chase View Post
    Well after all the messing around with different cap dump circuits it turns out that John Bedini's SSR cap dump works the best (for my wheel anyway). Is anyone surprised? He did say it was simple and thats usually the most effective. The cap dumps through the amp meter to the negative pole of the charge battery at each trigger of the coils.

    All thats needed now is the re-guaging motor load that inputs its energy into the cap and, I'll be at > 1:1.

    Thanks John B for generously sharing all the information on your Ferris Wheel Technical Information DVD and on this forum.

    Ron Chase
    Ron,
    nice wheel! can we have a vid tour? :-)
    are you using this Magnecraft SSR, Mouser part# 528-6312AXXMDS-DC3
    and are you using your earlier schematic from here http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post185078 to switch it?
    or is it working straight up as John B says with the breakdown voltage?
    or some other way?
    shouldn't we be over 1:1 w/o the center hub generator?
    Thanks,
    Patrick

    Leave a comment:


  • nvisser
    replied
    Wow! Neat work!
    Dumping after each trigger. Not reflecting to the source.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ron Chase
    replied
    SSR Cap Dump

    Well after all the messing around with different cap dump circuits it turns out that John Bedini's SSR cap dump works the best (for my wheel anyway). Is anyone surprised? He did say it was simple and thats usually the most effective. The cap dumps through the amp meter to the negative pole of the charge battery at each trigger of the coils.

    All thats needed now is the re-guaging motor load that inputs its energy into the cap and, I'll be at > 1:1.

    Thanks John B for generously sharing all the information on your Ferris Wheel Technical Information DVD and on this forum.

    Ron Chase
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Les_K
    replied
    Originally posted by John_K View Post
    Les,

    I don't remember but it doesn't matter. What matters is that JB said it was "like" a mag-amp, not actually one.

    IMO, the offest coils are just pre-biasing the main coil - "like" a mag-amp.


    John K.
    The post was a response to Jeremy and apparently the quote field did not show up.
    Sorry about that, a little later on JB makes it very clear that it is a good experiment for him to try making the outside coils south facing. But JB runs his in repulsion mode.

    The mag amp effects are something much more than I have thought. It's not so important to understand to make the machine run because if you have the impedances correct then it takes care of it all itself, yes "like a mag Amp". But having an understanding of what is going on is worth gold! And that page is full of key information. In fact I had my outside coils wrong. but once I have that fixed I can't wait to use the sniffer on it. Maybe I better get a tricorder.... Science version would probably be better than the medical
    the Tricorder project - Science Tricorder Mark 2


    Well, I have a lot more study to do. There was a lot of JB's comments on using several strands on one transistor vs a single strand per tranny....

    Have a great day!
    Les

    Leave a comment:


  • John_K
    replied
    Les,

    I don't remember but it doesn't matter. What matters is that JB said it was "like" a mag-amp, not actually one.

    IMO, the offest coils are just pre-biasing the main coil - "like" a mag-amp.


    John K.

    Originally posted by Les_K View Post
    John K,
    Did you ever finish your experiments with the Mag-Amp?
    Thanks Les

    Leave a comment:


  • John_K
    replied
    I agree, JB did not write that. Jeremy was involved in this thread early on.

    Sorry to rain on your parade Les.


    John K.

    Originally posted by minoly View Post
    I always wondered about that post. it never read to me as though John B. wrote it. and it is not signed by John B. I've heard John refer to himself in the 3rd person before - except he uses the name John. in this post he refers to himself in the 3rd person as "you"
    and the ohms are different than what he posts elsewhere, and he does not seem so sure of things, and he thanks himself and signs Jeremy Burnum????
    I think I assumed at the time, that someone else hopped on his computer the way Rick has done in the past.
    so I discarded the post as I did not know what was what....

    It would be nice to know what was what with that post.

    Patrick

    Leave a comment:


  • minoly
    replied
    Originally posted by Les_K View Post
    John K.
    Wow! I found it! post 807 sorry it took so long but I am reading with all new eyes!

    Les
    I always wondered about that post. it never read to me as though John B. wrote it. and it is not signed by John B. I've heard John refer to himself in the 3rd person before - except he uses the name John. in this post he refers to himself in the 3rd person as "you"
    and the ohms are different than what he posts elsewhere, and he does not seem so sure of things, and he thanks himself and signs Jeremy Burnum????
    I think I assumed at the time, that someone else hopped on his computer the way Rick has done in the past.
    so I discarded the post as I did not know what was what....

    It would be nice to know what was what with that post.

    Patrick

    Leave a comment:


  • Les_K
    replied
    Originally posted by John_Bedini View Post
    Right now, my figures show...

    61ohms for the Main Base Coil and
    30.5ohms for the conjugate asymmetrical side coils.
    This will equal the 12.2 ohm total in parallel.

    The side coils are opposed pulsing a weaker south pole to create attraction, while the Main center coil is creating a huge repulsed north field when switch goes on. Very interesting non-linear arrangement to say the least. I do know there is more to learn here.
    POST #20
    At this point I see the half bipolar bedini/cole circuit as the switch across conjugate coils in parallel. The switch sees this as a resistive load and non-inductive when on, but yet you are able to collect the collapsing magnet reactive impulse after disengaged.

    I was looking at your Adams motor arrangement. Using the concept of your half bipolar bedini/cole circuit, I made some slight adjustments. Again, I am only learning here, but I see this as a method for switching the non-linear fields. Schematic parts will of course change accordingly.

    We are all very inspired to test and learn here. Thank you so much!

    Jeremy Burnum

    Yes I see that, Thank you is this where you got the information?

    John K.
    Wow! I found it! post 807 sorry it took so long but I am reading with all new eyes!
    Read my posts and feel like a dumb A.......
    Man John B. has given us so much! So very much!

    I am just now understanding. JB asked; press two north poles together. What is charging the battery? Man what an eye opener! I now understand it really is a lifetime of research!
    JB answered his own question on the page with post 807! I am definitely wearing different Glasses today....

    Les

    Leave a comment:


  • Les_K
    replied
    Just an update...

    Just wanted to show some of the timing I have for the little wheel.

    John K,
    Did you ever finish your experiments with the Mag-Amp? I built the bipolar switch JB has posted on his site with the 3lb rotor.

    I used a hall switch and tried several different coils that had one extra strand to add a small dc current. I also tested with just a resistor across the strand. and in one test I had one strand with Iron wire the rest copper. I never tried a coil with all Iron though.
    The last test is still running, I made a four strand coil similar to the ferris wheel center coil.
    then encased it in a tin can, (A magnet would stick to the can so there must be some iron in there...) and have been running for weeks now. but the batteries have gone kinda weird. Anyway just wanted to know if you had anything interesting happen?

    Thanks
    Les
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Les_K
    replied
    Time to run

    John, Is it time? are we there yet?


    Les



    Originally posted by John_Bedini View Post
    @all,
    Yes the inductance does change when the magnets pass the pole. The one thing that you can not do in the machine is twist the wires. Now each wire in the main coil has it's own resistance so this is offset a little when it turns on sort of like a mag amp but pulsed DC or more like PWM because of the switching so I had to sit and tune it for maximum power low RPM.

    This is a very tedious to do as if I did not get just right I could not self start the machine. No one posted a Video of me showing it at the convention yet but someone out there has it. When I would start it from a dead stop it would accelerate backwards and slam agents three magnetic fields and dead stop then leap forward right up to 16RPM's that is how I knew I had the timing right. You all have done excellent work on this group. But now I'm going to do something I always wanted to do with a new machine just like this we must make it run with no input. Great group glad I could be here.
    John B

    Leave a comment:


  • Les_K
    replied
    Originally posted by Ron Chase View Post
    Les,

    Excellent! What circuit are you using and what is your cap dump rate?

    Awhile back there was talk of using an air coil for tuning that some saw at the last conference. Anyone know how that works?

    Watch out for those chains they might start moving around. I'll try to find some iron chain also.

    Ron
    I am using the one I came up with. It dumps about 1 pulse per second. Well, it did.
    The Bridge just went out for some reason. Very weird. no smole no smell no nothing. Just quit passing power to the cap. I was looking at it because I realized I may not have the right impedance match between the cap and coil. If that is not right then it won't perform either. I am pretty sure that is my last hurdle to start getting into any real fine tuning.

    looks like I am down for a while as I am all out of anything big enough for it. That's not an area to play with either. the power right there coming out of those coils can be very dangerous.

    Les

    Leave a comment:

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