Bedini Ferris Wheel Regauging Motor

[Matthew Jones]

Mr John

I am switching the negative end and comparing voltages on the negative end to make the switch happen.
The Joule thief / Radiant Oscillator is just used to drive the voltage up in the cap so that I could test Nvisser's idea for switching with an SSR. Quick and easy test if you will. I had the parts so I took the task.

The five amp meter is actually not a good meter to use I need a 20. The pulses are way higher than 5.
With further tuning on the oscillator side I got some voltages climbing in the ranges of 41-42v on my charge batteries.
The switching side seems to be heavily Dependant on the radiant being generated on the Oscillator side. Depending on how thats running I can vary the amount of amperage going across on the switch side.

Is this the best way to go about it or do you have some further suggestions? I'm kinda flying blind and just seeing what I can get out of it.

I'll build one today with a couple a mosfets and an opto as shown in Nvissers plan. See If I can get that cranking out.

Cheers
Matt

Matthew,
What is going on with your batteries, with a pulse like that the batteries should be over 43 volts and the meter should be bent by now.

And what end are you switching? I think it looks like the positive pole. and what is the reason for using the joule thief. I know this is unrelated to the motor. Is it just about switching?
John B

[nvisser]

the solid state relay switches one time and will work but mine switches three time in one second. It's to bad some could not attend or they could have seen that. The switch was low rated as I did not want to explode the batteries so I limited to 14 joules per switch X 3 you can figure how many joules that is in 24 hrs to the secondary batteries.
John B

John
I need to confirm with you if your pulsar dumps 72V (41J) or 42V (14J) at three times per second.
Thanks
Vissie

[John_Bedini]

Big Bedini Motor

Matthew,
What is going on with your batteries, with a pulse like that the batteries should be over 43 volts and the meter should be bent by now.

And what end are you switching? I think it looks like the positive pole. and what is the reason for using the joule thief. I know this is unrelated to the motor. Is it just about switching?
John B

@Vissie

YouTube - CapDumpTest2.MPG

Go back to your original schematic.
I'll get it going better tomorrow and update the paper.

Cheers
Matt

[qvision]

Bearden article ...

An interesting Bearden article that discusses regauging :

http://sleekfreak.ath.cx:81/books/electricity/Bedini.pdf

[Matthew Jones]

@Vissie

YouTube - CapDumpTest2.MPG

Go back to your original schematic.
I'll get it going better tomorrow and update the paper.

Cheers
Matt

[John_Bedini]

Big Bedini Wheel

nvisser,
After reading your post 44n on capacitor discharge, I can see why it did not work, you can not switch that way, you must look at the potential across the whole battery system. Then invert the switch in the system and it will switch. Think about what I just said, a fet will work fine if you do that.......... Two black wires, one in and one out, look at the IRF260 fet easy to figure the difference in potential between the capacitor and the battery. And look at it for DC SOA.
John B

Matt I think what is happening there is that the device once it has been triggered, it stays on or it never switch on fully.
I had that problem with all the self triggering pulsars I tried. They work well with a small radiant signal but as soon as the cap charge up fast it would not work.
That was why I introduced a small relay to switch the base or gate of the device.
See http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...battery-3.html
post 44 for the working circuit. I could not find another way to do it.
Maybe a cap over the trigger of the ssr will keep it on long enough to make sure the cap discharge and force the ssr off.

[Matthew Jones]

Matt I think what is happening there is that the device once it has been triggered, it stays on or it never switch on fully.
I had that problem with all the self triggering pulsars I tried. They work well with a small radiant signal but as soon as the cap charge up fast it would not work.
That was why I introduced a small relay to switch the base or gate of the device.
See http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...battery-3.html
post 44 for the working circuit. I could not find another way to do it.
Maybe a cap over the trigger of the ssr will keep it on long enough to make sure the cap discharge and force the ssr off.

I got it going better. I am now getting one amp pulses every second. It was the resistor on the front end of the SSR that caused the short cycles. I am not sure why.
I'll put one together with mosfets and and opto tomorrow. I have already built one so it shouldn't be much of stretch.
Matt

[bluestix]

We wish to communicate with you.

Mr. Bedini,

Here is an interesting quote I thought you might like. The author of it speaks highly of you.

"Some researchers are looking for a "particle monopole". No such configuration exists, as it is a contradiction in terms. Every attractive or repulsive force has a spherical radius, The center point together with the radial circumference of its force field define a condition of two poles." -Aaity Olson-

Andrew

Aaity is a saint. She is my good friend.

Time spent studying her work could not be better spent.


We will ask you to work with energies that are invisible to you. Even as they are invisible you can see their shadow effects. Be patient with us and with yourself and all will be clear to you over time. Read as much as you can, then rest. Let the concepts be taken into your center.

ALCHEMICAL MANUAL
FOR THIS MILLENNIUM

[Matthew Jones]

I did a test.
Heres some footage YouTube - CapDumpTest.MPG

It was just a radiant oscillator charging the cap.

The circiut emulated Nvisser's cap dump schematic but I just used a premade SSR. I can draw schematic if I need to.

It seems to dump too fast. It needs a little more voltage behind it to get a good dump. But I am not sure exactly what is expected from the cap dump.

Some one tell me if it looks good or not and I'll get it working better.

Matt

[nvisser]

John
I just spoke to Matthew Jones on skype and he is busy trying out the cap pulsar with the SSR.
But he think the device was blown from previous experiments , but he said he will keep trying.
I got a 1 foot superwood wheel and has to mount the magnets tommorow as my other wheel is a 20 magnet one for a ten coiler.
I will only receive the small neos on monday. But I think I should be able to start testing soon with the Bipolar swith and a hall sensor.
In the meantime I will construct the coil and shield.
For the magnetic amp should I turn the control winding first around the core and then the thicker drive winding? I cannot see what else to do as both windings are in parallel and gets pulsed the same time, so I though maybe if I do it this way it will saturate the core better to get the low impedance during the drive pulse.
Or do I understand this all the wrong way? LOL
Another question. I did not understand it fully. For the Southern hemisfere should the core stick out on top of the coil but the shield still mounts in the bottom like yours and bent up to about halfway?
I also want to sincerly thank you for giving this to us and for helping us to understand and build it.
Regards
Vissie

[John_Bedini]

Big Bedini Motor

John K,
Good, let's bend the shield and start to adjust it. You need to get some halls to do this right.
That ss relay might work has anybody tried this or should I try it to see if it will switch, but I guess it does not make any difference if it's three or one big switch for now.
Good work.....
John BE

Hi Folks,

I got to first base tonight and have my Monopole Bedini/Cole 1/2 Bipolar setup running.

Checkout the low quality video here:

YouTube - Monopole Bedini/Cole Bipolar Circuit

This first test was just to get the B/C switch running, using a bifilar coil and trigger wire switching. Output off the bridge is just going straight to the secondary for now. I want to get to know it a bit more before doing any upgrades.

Next I'll install the cap pulser section, then mount the setup vertical and replace the coil and add the iron shield plate.

Progress will be slow, time is limited at the moment.


John K.

[John_K]

1GT Running

Hi Folks,

I got to first base tonight and have my Monopole Bedini/Cole 1/2 Bipolar setup running.

Checkout the low quality video here:

YouTube - Monopole Bedini/Cole Bipolar Circuit

This first test was just to get the B/C switch running, using a bifilar coil and trigger wire switching. Output off the bridge is just going straight to the secondary for now. I want to get to know it a bit more before doing any upgrades.

Next I'll install the cap pulser section, then mount the setup vertical and replace the coil and add the iron shield plate.

Progress will be slow, time is limited at the moment.


John K.

[Rl2003]

Nenergy,
I believe you are close but have to adjust a few things.
First all the magnets are North facing the coils..
Second the three coils are not evenly spaced..
Let me clairify. 360 / 16 is 22.5, but see post #69. The two smaller coils are
slightly off 22.5. By my numbers, if you move the magnet over the center coil
so the edge of the magnet is centered in the coil it has moved back 1.688 degree's. BTDC, according to a magnet 7/8 0r 19mm wide.
NOTE:: IF YOUR MAGNETS ARE LARGER this may CHANGE THE DEGREE'S.
This makes the first small coil at .844 degrees BTDC, and the second small coil
at .422 BTDC.

On another note. By my calculations the timing wheel is aprox. 12 inch's in dia.
and has sixteen trigger magnets. Each would allow a window of 7.155 degree's
for the hall switch to be triggered, and the timing for the dump to the cap. Still
thinking about the circuit. Any one want to add to this info?
Mark

attempt replication.

[aussieaussieaussie]

Ren,
I understand what your saying, but I never would post anything unless I did the experiments, but remember I'm drawing on 40 years with this stuff.
My intentions is, to make you think without me just handing this over, we learn buy doing and thinking about the problem.

I took a big chance building this machine to the tune of 30K to prove this could be done. Everything Rick and I do is for research and discussion , Some things I can say others I can not. Maybe by others seeing this machine, it will inspire them to really think. I just did not go to this conference to get a swollen head and I have always presented my work to the public. I was offered mucho money to sell this machine and shut up, I will not take it. as I think it is very important for others to do it.

Some may not agree with me in my theories but they work for me and that is what counts. John K should do this with ease, and for the negative switch it not that ss relay the solid state relay switches one time and will work but mine switches three time in one second. It's to bad some could not attend or they could have seen that. The switch was low rated as I did not want to explode the batteries so I limited to 14 joules per switch X 3 you can figure how many joules that is in 24 hrs to the secondary batteries.

The meters were smacked to the pin mark I was not kidding around. One person here posted a youtube and he is doing it, it looks like it to me. Since he has the kit motor he needs the time to charge the cap, but he could get more with a little more timing on the hall. I'm not a social engineer I do the work if it takes me all night to get it done, if I find something of value I may or may not post it. Calculations are fine with me until the real work must be done then I find out they do not work all the time, but if I sat all day and did them I would get nothing done. I take all the money I make and build things, just ask anybody that knows me.

I was not going to go to this but I changed my mind at the last minute to help Rick, I do emit I was a real ***** to work with ask Bit's. Bit's was not kidding around either his machine worked very well nobody runs loads all day long like that. I was watching that machine I know. I have worked with the best of them in this field some are real phonies and make tones of money at it. Not me I make it public and I put everything out in the open so you can see it. So now maybe you understand a little better about me.
Glad we can be friends.
John B

Well put Mr B, Well Put. You most certainly have the correct attitude for the job!

Ozy

[nvisser]

and for the negative switch it not that ss relay the solid state relay switches one time and will work but mine switches three time in one second. It's to bad some could not attend or they could have seen that. The switch was low rated as I did not want to explode the batteries so I limited to 14 joules per switch X 3 you can figure how many joules that is in 24 hrs to the secondary batteries.
John B

To supply 14 Joules per switch the 16 000uF cap must charge up to 42V before it dicharges.
(16 000uf * 42^2)/2=14Joules

14J x3 x60 x 60 x 24 = 3.6288 Mega joules in 24Hours
Here is a modified circuit as I see it.