Renaissance November Workshop Convention

[minoly]

Think it Through.....

PS
don't forget, there is a timing gear kit that comes w/ all you need to cap-dump once per 15 rev's. you can build it yourself (for more), or make a lame one out of lego's and rubber-bands like we did . if you cap dump your spike as well, you will see the available mechanical increase. why? - impedance.

[minoly]

Think it Through.....

it's all about the spike:

"http://tinyurl.com/3pmPart1"
"http://tinyurl.com/3pmPart2"

notice the starting and ending voltage
of both primary and secondary.
skip to the end of the second vid watch the primary climb above where it started.
patrick

[kippered]

Well put Peter

The fun of the experiments begin, the key lies in the observation.

[Peter Lindemann]

Think it Through.....

Gentlemen, (and Ladies)

The motor kits delivered at the conference, and the predecessor designs, are all capable of indefinite operation. All of the necessary components are there. But, as with all things in this world, everything must be optimized.

First, the 9 volt batteries supplied with the kit are for demonstration purposes. They must be replaced with some small, 12 volt rechargeable batteries. 4 or 7 amp-hour gel-cells are preferred.

Second, the generator coil is designed to produce about 24 VAC at about 5,000 rpm. This final voltage (whatever it is for your model's top speed) determines how many LEDs you can light ABOVE the battery level.

Back popping the front battery is the most difficult method to get to work, although a workable method for off-setting the input was clearly explained in the Electric Motor Secrets thread and has been there for years.

Charging a cap on the back end with both the recovery from the motor coils AND the excess from the generator coil (after lighting a few LEDs) is the simplest and most reliable method.

Free running bearings, choosing the right number of LEDs based on the operational "top speed" of your system, running the system at "room temperature" so the batteries charge efficiently, etc, etc, etc,.....including everything John has been harping on for years..... are all necessary aspects of an operational success story!

Look at what John just posted in the "Electricity Watson Machine" thread. Its your own way of thinking that is stopping you.

Quit trying to build a "self-running machine" and start closely observing and working with the machine that is in front of you. Go through each system in the machine and find out it's range of activity. Chart them and take notes. Let the machine "teach you the truth" about itself and how well it embodies what "you believe" it embodies. When you find differences between "what you thought it was doing" and "what it is really doing", make adjustments.

When you are done with this process, it WILL be running itself.

We have told you EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!

Beyond this, you must learn it for yourself.

Peter

[kippered]

Voltage multiplier - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia ) and put about 13Vac from the generator coil into the circuit getting around 40Vdc out. I am thinking it might be possible to use this to trigger a cap dump at a similar voltage level to the radiant spikes (for me 25-30V) we see and try to charge a battery.

I am also wondering what type of RPM you guys figure you get the rotor up to... I get about 140Hz at the generator coil using the 9v battery so:

140 Hz = 140 cycles/sec

3 pulses per rotation therefore 46.6 Cycles/sec x 60 = 2800 RPM

@Pault
I am a beginner at batteries but there are 2 conventional ways to charge batteries that I know of:
- Ram a bunch of current into the battery and make it hot
- Trickle charge a battery to keep it "topped up"
- Pulse Charge a battery to condition it (yes pulse charging is widely used in the industry already, just not using Radient)

[pault]

... This can be applied to either the input battery to offset the battery drain at the front ...
Peter

I have my conference 3-poler running, using 9V batteries. A fresh source battery lasts only about 2-3 hours, so the above hint is very interesting.

Thinking out loud - please correct me and please kibbitz (esp. if it will prevent me from having to scrape battery guts off of my walls) - ...

The top coil is a conventional generator.

The top coil is on when the other coils are off, so this doesn't conflict with the stated (by John, I think) law that you can't recharge the source while driving the other coils.

The top coil generates AC, so the output must be rectified before being stuffed back into a battery.

The LEDs are diodes, so I should be able to connect a LED cathode to the + side of the source battery and "trickle charge" the source.

I've never considered how a battery is conventionally trickle charged. What are the parameters? What voltage is the trickle charge? Is it supposed to match the final voltage of the battery, or higher V or lower V? What about current? How does one know when the battery is fully charged? How does one prevent over-charging?

[pault]

For anyone that was at the conference and recieved the new 3 pole kit what was the transistor you recieved in the kit. Someone stated that in the old schematic that was handed out the layout for the transistor was different. Was the kit supplied with an mpsA06 transistor or what?

MPS 8099 (TO-92 case).

[Mark]

For anyone that was at the conference and recieved the new 3 pole kit what was the transistor you recieved in the kit. Someone stated that in the old schematic that was handed out the layout for the transistor was different. Was the kit supplied with an mpsA06 transistor or what?

[Mark]

Matt

No I have not tried to totally disconnect the motor before back popping, I assumed that firing it out of phase with the motor would work the same. Not really sure how to do that with out using a comutator.

Will have to get some smaller batteries then maybe I'll try using a half bipolar circuit (got that down to about 8ma draw) then using the other 3 coil in series with a cap and SCR to pop another battery and try rotating front to back and see if it will self sustain.

Would like to see your diagram Matt if you care to share.

Thanks, Mark

[Matthew Jones]

Did you disconnect the motor completely before you back popped the primary?
You cannot generate directly to the primary battery. You must allow a cap to charge then disconnect the motor and fire the capacitor back at the primary battery.
I switch the Hot side and allow the current to flow through the ground. But, and I am getting ready to test this, I think switching both sides of the connection would probably be more beneficial.
You have got to have a bit of amperage stored up in the cap before you fire regardless.

The only thing I tried and it might work is to serialize a bridge off of the coil with the primary battery. The problem that shows up and would take pretty dynamic circiut is the fact that as the motor goes faster the triggering would have to be adjusted to accommodate the higher voltages on the collector.
I have never gotten that to work very well.

Hope that helps some. Peter may have another take on it.
Matt

[Mark]

Hi Everybody,

OK, here's the deal (or at least one set of possibilities). The idea is this. Once you have the basic system recycling the electricity from the front batteries to the back batteries while running the motor, any mechanical energy produced is the major portion of the "free energy" created by the machine. The extra generator coil can then "convert" this free mechanical energy back into "new" electricity, or electricity that was not in the system before.

The way the system is wired is to take 100% of this "new" electricity and use it to light some LEDs. The voltage of that system is about twice the voltage of the batteries, or about 24 volts. So, if you light only about 12 volts worth of LEDs instead of the full amount, you now have about 12 volts worth of output to play with. This can be applied to either the input battery to offset the battery drain at the front, or added to the capacitor and dumped to the battery in the back along with the rest of the recovered energy from the coils.

Either way will give you the bias you need to run the system, light some LEDs and charge the back battery faster than the front runs down.

Have fun!!!

Peter

Hello Peter

I've tried that in more than one configuration and could not get it to work. I even put my bifilar coil where the generator coil usually goes and used the other coils in parallel and in series to feed the front battery with no leds and the front battery would always run down. I tried the 2 similiar coils in series and used the generator coil as my trigger and fed that back to the primary in pulses out of phase with the bifiliar and that didn't work.

Now the one mistake I maybe making is my batteries maybe too big, I've always worked with automotive batteries.

Please instruct me with what I am doing wrong.

Thanks, Mark

[esaruoho]

For those who wanted more and for the folks that couldn't attend the conference last weekend, Rick has announced another conference in the last weekend of July 2011.

This is an event NOT to be missed. It will be even bigger and better than the last one. There will also be more surprises. I'll let you in on one of them... I'll be there this time!

Follow this link for details: Renaissance Charge July 2011 Alternative Energy Conference Keep checking back as more details are finalized.

hmm, seems to be at the same time as the Extraordinary Technology Conference 2011? (the only reason i noticed that was because travelling to the states is quite expensive and was hoping i could save enough to attend both conferences! )

[John_K]

New CDA Alternative Energy Conference - July 2011

For those who wanted more and for the folks that couldn't attend the conference last weekend, Rick has announced another conference in the last weekend of July 2011.

This is an event NOT to be missed. It will be even bigger and better than the last one. There will also be more surprises. I'll let you in on one of them... I'll be there this time!

Follow this link for details: Renaissance Charge July 2011 Alternative Energy Conference Keep checking back as more details are finalized.

This will be capped at 1000 people, so don't miss out. It will be bigger than Texas (or Queensland if you're Australian )


John K.

[nvisser]

Man, I totally missed out on the Free Love.....

Matt

The guy you shared your room with wasn't as cute as you thought he would be!!! LOL

[Ecoman11]

Peter, the posted wiring diagram from Rick does not include the top coil in the schematic. Are you saying to use the trigger coil to fire it just like the other coils and run it to a capacitor, or use a separate circuit with just this coil and maybe a reed switch to trigger it? Or just as a generator coil with no electronics at all. Mine is running and all tuned up, and I am one happy camper right now. I am going to visit my son, the electrical engineer, this weekend, and taking my motor with me as well as a build of Matt's simple motor. I can't wait. I have several 7 amp hour batteries, so I can configure it however I need to.

If there is enough voltage across that generator coil you can easily convert it to a vibreedo coil which I've posted here. http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...eedo-coil.html

It would be interesting to see the results if anyone is willing to try.

Ecoman