3 Battery Generating System

[boguslaw]

for every action there is an equal opposite reaction and if you balance that you have the key to universal power

[Skeptic]

OrionLightShip: So sorry to hear about your mother in law. I wish you and your family well during this difficult time.

Thanks for the offer of a pulse motor but I do not have the time to pursue it at this point in time. Between my demanding job and family, there is little time for hobbies at this point. My current (mostly neglected) hobby is RC helicopters which I have been pursuing for 23 years (and RC planes 17 years prior to that). About 7 years ago I converted to all electric so you can imagine the transmitters, receivers, motors, batteries, chargers, and equipment in my collection - lead acid, nicad, nickel-metal hydride, Li-Poly batteries, brushed and brush-less motors with really powerful permanent magnets etc. You can see why I would be so interested in the 3BGS.

[wsxian2]

UPS battery update

The UPS battery does not seem to have a surface charge.
I hooked it up to both of my scooter motors individually and it ran them fine with lots of torque.

Which is strange because, the other two batteries are not able to run the scooter motors by themselves. The motors only seem to run with two batteries hooked up in series (to get +24 volts)- well, up till today.

The only difference I can see is that the UPS battery was able to run the 3BG motor without a load and I let it run that way for some time (unsure of the time, but definitely over 1 hour) while the other batteries I have used were running the 3BGM only with a load attached to them. Seems to indicate that allowing it to run for that length of time gave it a lot of power, but that the power only comes to the battery without a load on it.
So if you want to charge up a battery, that seems to be what you should do - hook up the 3BG system and let the Motor run with no additional load on the battery you want charged.

At the present time (1:35 pm MST), I am running the system with a 6.7 volt reading large automotive lead acid battery (had dry cells as it took a bit of distilled water) and it started the motor up immediately without a load. So I will let it run and see if I can get the same results as the UPS battery.

Tomorrow I shall try the -0.2 Volt Marine battery. This was left outside with a trickle charger on it for about 2-3 years until it just stop working (dry cells as it took a lot of distilled water). I was trying to have a power supply which I could use during power outages (connect to an inverter to get AC power to run the TV or the gas furnace- don't know which is more important ).

I have an old metal desk outside and I do all my experimentation on it outside as I don't have a basement (water table too high here as I live only .2 miles from the Rio Grande River).

Reporting again from the Far West.

[a.king21]

negative voltage

This is something I can verify as I've done it experimentally. It only works on either discharged batteries or bad batteries. It is a phenomenon of radiant energy. The spike has every frequency in it and it is my belief that this includes the frequency of the vacuum which is a highly stressed medium.
Think of air: it is a highly stressed medium at 15 lbs per sq inch. Transport yourself to space without a suit and you explode.
The vacuum therefore behaves similarly when spiked. You stir up vacuum currents. Bearden calls it re-gaging the vacuum.
We know the why, we should concentrate on the "how".
If you are really gating vacuum energy, another phenomenon you should see is cold electricity. There has to be a section of your circuit which is colder than it should be in a conventional circuit. As an example: I have had ordinary transformers humming as you would normally expect but the astounding difference is that the transformer is colder than room temperature.

[Turion]

Brain Strain

It seems like every other time I sit down to start serious testing of the 3BGS setup it does something that hurts my brain. It has done that once again. And this time I am calling on all you out there in 3BGS land to give me your input on what to do next.

When I began the testing for Skeptic, I put my two primaries on the charger and topped them off, just to make sure they were COMPLETELY charged.
Skeptic Test - YouTube
As you can see the voltages were 14.85...14.92...and 5.97

In the set up video for the 3BGS run you can see the voltage on the bad battery has already dropped a little
Skeptic Test 2 - YouTube

IN the next video, I showed the setup of all three batteries connected to the motor, which did not start. If you listen VERY CLOSELY you can hear it begin to run right in the last second or two of the video.
Skeptic Test 3 - YouTube

But here is where it gets interesting.....
I only did a 15 minute run because I though my timer was set for 20 minutes, but somehow I had set it to 15. At the end of that run, my primaries had increased almost a volt each in charge, and battery 3 had reversed polarity and gone up to around 10 volts. It is showing a -10 volts on the meter when the meter is connected correctly.

Skeptic Test 4 - YouTube

Sooooooo, do I flip the polarity in battery 3 for my next test run? Or do I continue on with it wired as is. If I leave it alone, I may get more charging on the primaries, which is what I want, and will help prove our case that there is something to this whole thing. If I reverse it, we MAY find that what we NEED to do is reverse battery three every so often to get the setup to do what we want it to do.

Anyway, just more data for us to look at as we try and figure this out. I am letting everything rest for three hours before I start up again, so have a couple hours to decide what to do.

Dave

[blackchisel97]

It seems like every other time I sit down to start serious testing of the 3BGS setup it does something that hurts my brain. It has done that once again. And this time I am calling on all you out there in 3BGS land to give me your input on what to do next.

But here is where it gets interesting.....
I only did a 15 minute run because I though my timer was set for 20 minutes, but somehow I had set it to 15. At the end of that run, my primaries had increased almost a volt each in charge, and battery 3 had reversed polarity and gone up to around 10 volts. It is showing a -10 volts on the meter when the meter is connected correctly.

Skeptic Test 4 - YouTube

Sooooooo, do I flip the polarity in battery 3 for my next test run? Or do I continue on with it wired as is. If I leave it alone, I may get more charging on the primaries, which is what I want, and will help prove our case that there is something to this whole thing. If I reverse it, we MAY find that what we NEED to do is reverse battery three every so often to get the setup to do what we want it to do.

Anyway, just more data for us to look at as we try and figure this out. I am letting everything rest for three hours before I start up again, so have a couple hours to decide what to do.

Dave

Hi Dave,
I believe that system is trying to balance itself and flipping polarity of third battery caused gain in primaries. I would continue to test this further for one or two runs, depending on the results and see what happens. If nothing significant then I would drain battery three and reverse its polarity back.
Just my 2 cents.

Thanks
Vtech

[tachyoncatcher]

Parallel

Dave,
If all batteries are the same, then you had all 3 connected in parallel. I always orient my primaries the same and my 3rd battery opposite the primaries so I can keep all my -negative- leads on one side and +positive+ on the other. I once did what it looks like you did.
Randy

PS I hope you don't get the same result I did. It ruined my 3rd battery effect for that battery.

[Turion]

Not all the same

No worries. One of the primaries is opposite poles from the other for some reason. I didn't pay any attention to that when I bought it, but I did when I hooked it up.

Going to post several more videos with scope shots. You can watch all of them if you choose, and you will see how long I ran the motor with additional loads on it and the primaries held their own. I didn't get charging like I did on the first run, but things stayed fairly stable. I took lots of video of scope shots, which s really boring.

Right now I am draining my 3rd battery which is charged up to 16 volts, and then I will let the thing rest for the night. Tomorrow is another day.

Skeptic Test 5 - YouTube

Skeptic Test 6 - YouTube

Skeptic Test 7 - YouTube

Dave

[tachyoncatcher]

Excellent! Did you say that was a standard motor? It sounds like it.
Randy

[Turion]

Motor

Yes, it's an off the shelf Razor Scooter Motor 24 volt. I wanted to use off the shelf batteries and off the shelf motor. Just so if I could get it working and figure out WHY, others could replicate. My primaries are STILL up over the voltage I started with, and I just checked them and they are going up, so will post a video of that here, since it has been several hours that they have been resting now.

Skeptic Test 8 - YouTube

If you caught it on the video, The polarity on the bad battery SWITCHED, and during that "switched" phase, the primaries charged while running loads. When I started my second run, right at the beginning the bad battery was STILL switched in polarity and everything was going great. Then it suddenly SWITCHED polarity again, and the primaries began to lose a little charge.

Sooooooo, a big WHAT IF (or two). WHAT IF the bad battery switches polarity EVERY time, and it is during this polarity shift that good things happen. Maybe we should be stopping our runs after 3 minutes, 5 minutes, 10 minutes, to see if the polarity of the bad battery shifts. I know some other folks have SEEN the polarity on the bad battery reverse. There have been SEVERAL comments about it here. WHAT IF when you continue your run, the voltage on the bad battery climbs to a certain point and it suddenly reverses polarity AGAIN. Mine certainly did. It is back showing the correct pole as the positive pole. WHAT IF all the magic happens while the polarity is reversed. And WHAT IF we could run it for a while when the polarity is reversed, and then switch the connections on the battery to PHYSICALLY reverse it, which MIGHT trigger a reverse reversal (is that a wrestling term) of the battery before the voltage builds up that causes the battery to reverse on its own. In other words, we switch back and forth on the bad battery inputting into the negative for a while, and then the positive, trying to keep the battery in that reversed polarity state. Does that make any sense????

Two more things I want to point out. I know some of you are going to say: "I have a meter on battery 3 ALL THE TIME while the setup is running and I have NEVER seen it reverse polarity." Well...I had a meter on battery 3 today also, off and on. It started at 24 volts...dropped down to around 18 and the motor started, and by the time I shut it off, it was showing 16 volts POSITIVE across battery 3 WHILE IT WAS CONNECTED IN THE 3BGS SETUP. It is when I disconnected it from the other batteries and measured it ON ITS OWN that it showed negative voltage. Go back and look at my videos if you don't believe me.

The second thing is something Matt pointed out to me. My baaaad battery went from 6 volts positive to over 10 volts negative, which is a 16 volt difference. Now is that 16 volts in Potential????

I will video the batteries again in the morning so you can see that they gained some by resting, and then I will be doing some more runs tomorrow.

Dave

[garrypm]

Hi Dave,

Great work and videos, thanks.

Just a word of caution about you dmms. I have noticed that once the
internal battery of the dmm begins to get under 9v or so, the readings I
get for DC volts climbs.

Your DMM is showing low battery in one of the videos

Cheers, Garry

[Turion]

Garry,
Thanks for that. I will replace that battery first thing in the morning before I do anymore test runs and measure the voltages on the primaries with the new battery installed.

Dave

[Duncan]

No sweat with this ...

A motor and a couple batteries? Not too complex. The interactions? Maybe it IS simple, but we are looking at the wrong things. The opinion I was referring to was that of my own.

errfinder: EMF? ElectroMotive or ElectroMagnetic, they are used interchangeably, but they are not the same. I prefer to study the later's interaction. Sorry Duncan, I think you are on the right track, but with the wrong force.

Randy

I have no problem with that adjustment Randy. I have rather written the theory of ground (telluric) currents and the maths for “in house” just couldn't bring myself to make that quantum leap.
If I do then of course the whole situation changes .. the “bad battery” becomes series resonant w.r.t the rest of the circuit. (ish)
and that could well be true. Lets assume for a moment the force you propose which I described but cant quite fully accept is right and telluric current is what’s feeding this machine (and it could very well be ) because all said and done I’ve described the telluric system whilst portraying the maths of an “in house system” .. “neither fish nor fowl” . And the difference is as you point out .. opposite
so lets go with “Telluric ground waves” if that's true then the state of the bad battery as you see it in circuit would be “parallel resonant” and “everything’s reversed” just as you suggest.
In a round about way the logic for that is described by EPD about 1M40 into this
Part 3 of 6: Eric Dollard Tesla Longitudinal Wave Energy SBARC Ham Radio with Chris Carson - YouTube
an SWR of infinity !... but for transmission , we wish to receive , an opposite state
That’s resonance he's talking about … and ground cable … and huge ground current (just like is frying the terminals of your battery Randy) and
If I accept all that Randy then the condition of the “bad battery” alters totally to parallel resonant that is maximum voltage (over time) and minimum current as we view the circuit, to nail it a bit more it would be very useful to know if … in order to stay “in the zone” so to speak you slow down the motor or allow it to speed up …load it or release ? It is frequency I think of here XL being proportional to frequency and XC being inversely proportional I got the impression that loading the motor (lowering the frequency) was an asset with the little motor I ran, I would like a consensus though, .
your quite right Randy I have described one system and portrayed another I’ve just slapped my own wrist!

[tachyoncatcher]

Modification

Guys,
I have made a slight modification to the 3rd battery configuration . I took two dead batteries (do not use good batteries for this), connect the +positive+ posts together. I used this for my 3rd battery. Yes, I had a -negative- post on each side to connect to my 3BGS as the 3rd battery component. This is our 0-point transducer. Dave, you won't have to fight the increased charge on this arrangement as you do the repairing 3rd single battery. I have had good luck with this arrangement. Voltages will move around in the dead batteries, but I have not had any repair take place after hours of experimenting. Thanks, a.king for the inspiration.

As I said earlier, do not use good batteries. They tend to be explosive and boil like mad.
Good Luck,
Randy

[erfinder]

Guys,
I have made a slight modification to the 3rd battery configuration . I took two dead batteries (do not use good batteries for this), connect the -negative- posts together. I used this for my 3rd battery. Yes, I had a +positive+ post on each side to connect to my 3BGS as the 3rd battery component. This is our 0-point transducer. Dave, you won't have to fight the increased charge on this arrangement as you do the repairing 3rd single battery. I have had good luck with this arrangement. Voltages will move around in the dead batteries, but I have not had any repair take place after hours of experimenting. Thanks, a.king for the inspiration.

As I said earlier, do not use good batteries. They tend to be explosive and boil like mad.
Good Luck,
Randy

Excellent! You are closer to indirectly replicating my work than anyone on this forum, and doing so with batteries...go figure..I still think you want the difference in potential between banks, 24v ++ and 48v --your inner connections are spot on in my opinion.. The weak link now is the motor...its not wound like it should for you to capitalize on this battery connection....when properly connected, your motor will become a magnetic self oscillating apparatus...this self oscillating feature functions as an accumulator and rectifier all in one....a system stabilizer, it also puts you the position to modulate the 0 that you just created.....

Positive to positive and negative to negative isn't bucking....look carefully....here is the birth place of the neutral center..... why...think about it....

Excellent work...keep it up...

Regards