3 Battery Generating System

[wantomake]

Re-designing

Wantomake,

I was over at the old house today getting some things I needed out of my shop, and I noticed a set of bearing blocks lying on the counter. These are "L shaped pieces of solid steel with holes drilled in them for mounting to the bench with screws, and a large hole drilled with the bearing pressed in. I'm not at all sure if the bearings are the correct size and I didn't have time to check today, but if you are interested, I will run over there tomorrow or Monday and check to see if the bearings are the correct size for the shaft that fits the rotor I sent you. That would end your problem with the bearing holder warping, because these definitely won't warp and can be screwed down. The only problem MAY be the hight of the bearing above the bench. They are from an older build, so the hight might not be correct, and you might have to put a spacer under either them or the coil holder to get them to line up at dead center. Anyway, just a thought if you are still thinking about building the generator. You will STILL need more than just one coil to see any positive results, but you would be able to see speed up under load and magnetic neutralization no matter HOW many coils you have.

I quit using these because of the pressed in bearings, and went to a flange bearing that cannot be pulled OUT of the mount because of the flange by continued vibration over time. With powerful neo magnets pulling the rotor toward the stator, pressure is applied to pull the bearing OUT of the mount, and I didn't like the thought of that. It was a safety issue for me. With all the things I have had go WRONG, eliminating every possibility for a problem was something I worked on as I modified my original design time and time again. I NEVER had a pressed in bearing pull out, but I also never had a rotor explode..... until one did. So it's not like I would be giving you something that is defective, and you could certainly replace the bearings with flange bearings or tapered bearings that cannot pull through. It is really JUST the bearing holders I am offering, although the bearings are in them. Just to be clear. I want NO liability if the bearings come out! I have enough stuff to deal with already.

Dave

Thanks for the offer but not sure as you said if the height of the bearings will match that of my coil holders.

I've been looking at your design and my build and they are different. I'm planning to recut a new set of holders(4) to match your design. The ones I cut don't match good because each is a little different in size.

Yes I do plan on more coils also. This was my first proof of concept. Hope to get to it soon.

Thanks again,
wantomake

[Turion]

Parts

Wantomake,

I was over at the old house today getting some things I needed out of my shop, and I noticed a set of bearing blocks lying on the counter. These are "L shaped pieces of solid steel with holes drilled in them for mounting to the bench with screws, and a large hole drilled with the bearing pressed in. I'm not at all sure if the bearings are the correct size and I didn't have time to check today, but if you are interested, I will run over there tomorrow or Monday and check to see if the bearings are the correct size for the shaft that fits the rotor I sent you. That would end your problem with the bearing holder warping, because these definitely won't warp and can be screwed down. The only problem MAY be the hight of the bearing above the bench. They are from an older build, so the hight might not be correct, and you might have to put a spacer under either them or the coil holder to get them to line up at dead center. Anyway, just a thought if you are still thinking about building the generator. You will STILL need more than just one coil to see any positive results, but you would be able to see speed up under load and magnetic neutralization no matter HOW many coils you have.

I quit using these because of the pressed in bearings, and went to a flange bearing that cannot be pulled OUT of the mount because of the flange by continued vibration over time. With powerful neo magnets pulling the rotor toward the stator, pressure is applied to pull the bearing OUT of the mount, and I didn't like the thought of that. It was a safety issue for me. With all the things I have had go WRONG, eliminating every possibility for a problem was something I worked on as I modified my original design time and time again. I NEVER had a pressed in bearing pull out, but I also never had a rotor explode..... until one did. So it's not like I would be giving you something that is defective, and you could certainly replace the bearings with flange bearings or tapered bearings that cannot pull through. It is really JUST the bearing holders I am offering, although the bearings are in them. Just to be clear. I want NO liability if the bearings come out! I have enough stuff to deal with already.

Dave

[wantomake]

True assessment

Wantomake,
From what you said, it appears you need the whole coil holding apparatus. You said the 3/4 plywood you used warped. I would bet you did not use the PC couplers epoxied in place. If you do that, and put spacers between the plywood, it won't warp. I know this for a fact, because that is the very first build I did to prototype my current build using acrylic plastic. Mine was all glued together, and it was as solid as a rock. I only went to the plastic for the looks, and because I wanted something a machinist could produce. I don't have that original anymore, because I just didn't have the room for all these different versions of the same thing when the new one is better.

Yes and mostly the two end brackets holding the bearings in place warped worst.

I was in process of changing the two end pieces from wood to aluminum when stopped working on the project.

Still have all the spacers and parts. Maybe one day will put it all back together again.

Thanks for the tip,
wantomake

[Turion]

??

Wantomake,
From what you said, it appears you need the whole coil holding apparatus. You said the 3/4 plywood you used warped. I would bet you did not use the PC couplers epoxied in place. If you do that, and put spacers between the plywood, it won't warp. I know this for a fact, because that is the very first build I did to prototype my current build using acrylic plastic. Mine was all glued together, and it was as solid as a rock. I only went to the plastic for the looks, and because I wanted something a machinist could produce. I don't have that original anymore, because I just didn't have the room for all these different versions of the same thing when the new one is better. Well, maybe not BETTER, but way cooler looking at least.

[wantomake]

Forward

Turion,
Hope is alive with prayer and expectations of good news from you. Yes prayer and hope. I'm happy to just have seen with my own eyes and hands the proof of this concept. Nothing said here can take that from me.

You get done and forget about sending any parts to me. Finish all you've started. Home, shop, project. These are so much more important, which stands without saying.

Take care and will always cherish the 3BGS memories.

wantomake

[bistander]

Cool

....
Then I can run the Matt motor with our circuit on that same battery, with the boost module in place, ...

A humble request, if you don't mind. Please take a scope screenshot of the battery current with and without the boost converter. Thanks in advance.

Regards,

bi

[Turion]

Progress

I wish I could update you guys on what is going on and where this journey has taken us, but unfortunately I cannot. Some day you will realize that the answers you have all been searching for were in the two major threads we have started here, and that the basic information is all here and was just ignored. You have no idea how many times i have just shaken my head and said "If they only KNEW!" We have some things we intend to do before we show anything more on this thread than we already have, but maybe I can find the time to shoot some video to prove what we have disclosed so far.

I did find an already rewound rotor for a Matt motor, so if I get a little free time over the holiday to put one together, I will try to do that. Then I can run the Matt motor off a fully charged battery, turning a stock motor as a generator and running a light as a load off the generator. I can measure how many watts the generator was able to put out to the light before the battery runs down using a traditional circuit.

Then I can run the Matt motor with our circuit on that same battery, with the boost module in place, and show how many watts went from the generator to the light bulb before the battery runs down. That should be a fair test, and easy to do. It is also far less time consuming that running a three battery baseline and comparing that to running three batteries with our circuit.

Anyway, that's the plan. I have to balance the thing before I put it together, and I have to find the rest of the parts for it, but I have lots of razor scooter motors around here that are in pieces, so that shouldn't take much time. I just need a couple square feet of bench space and right now that's the hardest thing to come by.

I'm still months away from having any real free time, but it may be possible to squeeze in a few things. If I get the shelves built I am hoping to get built this weekend, I will have room to get enough stuff off the floor that maybe I can get one of my generators on a cart over here and start winding coils to get it put back together. I have all the wire, but winding 10 new coils just takes a lot of time, and the ones I have are slag from overheating. So it will take me a while.

[wantomake]

Says it all.

bi,

I think you're being rejected and booted off because you insist that you know better yet you have only tried once.

what are your intentions anyway?. are you here to look at this closely or discredit this?. or just killing time?

what exactly are you trying to point?.
maybe I can answer in a way that can satisfy you.

I think this post says it all.

wantomake
PS: ignore list

[bistander]

Matt modded motor

...
Matts motor ran/runs hot [real hot] ,and has lots of iron
...

Hi Chet,

Matt's modified motor has the same iron as the unmodified motor he starts with. That is not a lot of iron IMO. The modification deals strictly with the winding and commutation. I suspect the excess heat comes from copper loss, not iron. This is measured by I squared R. But I, or current, needs to be an RMS value, not average.

The temperatures you mention are above the Curie point of ceramic magnets and well in excess of the what the winding insulation can tolerate.

Regards,

bi

[RAMSET]

maybe... just maybe ??

Note
as always i will remove this post in a heartbeat if asked by Matt or Dave
-----------------------------------------

below is for Matt and Dave [and all IMO]

Matts motor ran/runs hot [real hot] ,and has lots of iron


some are starting a Daniel McFarland Cook replication [which will be shared here too in dedicated thread],and trying to source the proper [period correct] iron wire.....Jim Boot shared this link yesterday

Iron Rod - online catalogue source - supplier of research materials in small quantities - Goodfellow

snip from the link
Depending upon the temperature, pure iron can exist in three forms, namely alpha-, gamma- and delta-iron; alpha iron is a polymorphic form of iron which is stable below 906C; it has a body centred cubic lattice (bcc) and is magnetic up to 768C. Gamma iron is a polymorphic form of iron which is stable between 906C and 1403C; it has a face centred cubic lattice (fcc) and is nonmagnetic (n.b. its range of stability is reduced by the presence of carbon, manganese and nickel and it is the basis of the austenite solid solutions). Delta iron is the polymorphic form of iron which is stable between 1403C and the melting point; it has the same lattice structure as alpha iron.
end snip

we also know funny things are happening with heat and other metals [Celani and others work ]

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/326991285_First_evaluation_of_coated_Constantan_wires_comprising_Capuchin_knots_to_increase_anomalous_heat_and_reduce_input_power_at_high_temperatures

-----------------
to note : Celani work evolving here [and elsewhere]

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/21081-hydrogen-metal-surprising-reactions-without-plasmas.html

------------------

Could there be a gain mechanism associated with this heat and iron at the Micro level and
the wild conditions manifest in Matts motor ??
Domain flipping or manipulation at low power levels has huge potential....

one thing is certain

there is much to learn and there are some really hot experiments on the open source table ATM


respectfully
Chet K
PS to add comment for bystander below
yes these things are self evident ,however Micro reactions or atomic or ?? and "whatifs" must not be ruled out.
not magic thinking just being thorough based on present ever evolving scientific investigation/understanding.

[wantomake]

Once

As I’m rewinding another motor, I’m curious if anyone has experimented with more windings. Would more wire help or hinder? Just a thought.

I did try once a thicker awg wire multiple filar. Motor got very hot. But satisfied my unscientific curiosity. If I remember right Matt did try many different windings before finding best one.

But no harm trying it if teaches something.

Just sitting and watching snow/sleet storm with hot coffee. Let us know if you find anything different.

wantomake

[Sawt2]

As I’m rewinding another motor, I’m curious if anyone has experimented with more windings. Would more wire help or hinder? Just a thought.

[wantomake]

Feel your pain brother

Hi James, I am working on a permanent magnet motor / generator very much similar to the South-African developer's version described here:

http://free-energy-info.co.uk/SChapter6.pdf

Apparently, the generation effects sought for are achievable without using a magnet rotor, but I was planning on using one anyway so that I could visually see whats happening. At the moment, however, I AM too broke to do anything - waiting on enough funds to afford super glue to keep those magnet bullets in place.

Recently had enough motivation to go through my windmill / solar battery system and throw out about 20 bad batteries. Almost all of them have internal shorts that cause them to heat up and suck all the voltage out of my system.

I did want to experiment with a solenoid motor / generator by converting an old china diesel motor to a one lung solenoid magnet motor. I had wanted to incorporate extreme repelling force of caps charged up to several K.V. then discharged into coils. You can find demos of this tech from Ismael Aviso from the Philippines [VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxA6fDe3J6c[/VIDEO]
[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eCsVPmEjyQ[/VIDEO]
and Dimitry from Russia. But I realized that most of the mechanical energy released will be ate up in internal friction of the engine, with not much left over to use to drive a generator.

I don't have any suitable motors to modify for a Matt-motor conversion, or proper voltage dc-dc converters to try the 3bgs system. But I would like to at least achieve some success in one of these systems before I die.

Ken,
Thanks for the link. I understand about the battery banks for the solar. Strange as this sounds, some of my batteries are over 8 years old. I've used them in the 3BGS setup and that sweet pulsing kept them healthy. As long as I watched and kept electrolytes healthy the batts were good.

As far as the generator goes I'll see what happens with the upright. I also want to do this exactly as specs are posted here to see this baby turn out some power. Power for what you ask....my space ship of course.


wantomake

[wantomake]

Parts

Turion,
You are correct. These are the parts I have:
1 modified Matt motor 1016
1 rotor you sent me with magnets
1 coil wound to specs
1 boost module 10 amp
1 threaded axle with various nuts and such

Of course hardware and such no problem. Mostly the upright vertical holders is the most expensive for this build.

wantomake

[kenssurplus]

7:45 am with heavy rain a cup of hot java to kick the brains and this thread to just sit, think and hope.

Turion I can't finish the upright Lenz free generator until early next year. I want to use something as a generator until then. Don't think the single battery circuit will produce without a lenzless generator.

Just wondering if anyone has had any attempts with other types generators? I do have several I could try.

Want to hear some ideas from any "builder" or thinking to build.

Thanks and time to nuke the ole coffee.
wantomake

Hi James, I am working on a permanent magnet motor / generator very much similar to the South-African developer's version described here:

http://free-energy-info.co.uk/SChapter6.pdf

Apparently, the generation effects sought for are achievable without using a magnet rotor, but I was planning on using one anyway so that I could visually see whats happening. At the moment, however, I AM too broke to do anything - waiting on enough funds to afford super glue to keep those magnet bullets in place.

Recently had enough motivation to go through my windmill / solar battery system and throw out about 20 bad batteries. Almost all of them have internal shorts that cause them to heat up and suck all the voltage out of my system.

I did want to experiment with a solenoid motor / generator by converting an old china diesel motor to a one lung solenoid magnet motor. I had wanted to incorporate extreme repelling force of caps charged up to several K.V. then discharged into coils. You can find demos of this tech from Ismael Aviso from the Philippines [VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxA6fDe3J6c[/VIDEO]
[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eCsVPmEjyQ[/VIDEO]
and Dimitry from Russia. But I realized that most of the mechanical energy released will be ate up in internal friction of the engine, with not much left over to use to drive a generator.

I don't have any suitable motors to modify for a Matt-motor conversion, or proper voltage dc-dc converters to try the 3bgs system. But I would like to at least achieve some success in one of these systems before I die.