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My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

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  • qvision
    replied
    @UFO thanks for the advice

    I have ordered IRFP460 FETs.
    I have this PWM :

    Power Pulse Modulator - OCX

    I cannot get UF505 or NTE576/577 in the UK and cannot find anything similar on ebay or amazon.

    Any UK builders here and what diodes are you using ?


    All the best,

    Leave a comment:


  • Ufopolitics
    replied
    Hello Prochiro

    Originally posted by prochiro View Post
    @ qvision
    Just for (starting) on the small motors or neon experiments, any fet out of an old power supply or the like, or just one of the relative rating will work. I have used the IRF840 to the IRF540 for small setups to get my feet wet. Good luck and keep doing what you are doing. As you go, show us what you are up to and if any problems, let us know. All the answers are in the text but in pieces.

    @UFO
    The bearings that came with motor are rated for 12000 RPM and good static and dynamic levels. If we just set in a screw tightener as you suggested, with (no) wear in our bearing ports, do you think that is enough???
    Dana

    Hello Prochiro,

    Yes, but they are Chinese...basically the rear one...I got the rear housing messed up...because of that, as also the play they come from factory...
    I got a Japanese that would go 18,900...

    That the locking bolt would be the final and best solution?...
    Absolutely NOT!...It is just a Patch...

    Now, those Housings have space to drill four holes/thread them for four locking bolts...I mean...what else could we do?...that would not become a big time project beyond the possibilities of many here making this replications?
    If you have a better/easier/simple and cheaper idea in mind...please shut me with it, am ready... ...

    By the way...do you have one or two Imperial Kits?
    You should be waiting for epoxy to dry to run your motor right?


    Regards


    Ufopolitics

    Leave a comment:


  • Ufopolitics
    replied
    Check the UF505...


    Hello QVision,

    Please check the UF505...That is exactly same thing as NTE576...


    Regards


    Ufopolitics

    Leave a comment:


  • qvision
    replied
    Thanks prochiro

    Thanks very much prochiro, i can tsop being so anal about it now ;+}


    All the best,

    Leave a comment:


  • prochiro
    replied
    @ qvision
    Just for (starting) on the small motors or neon experiments, any fet out of an old power supply or the like, or just one of the relative rating will work. I have used the IRF840 to the IRF540 for small setups to get my feet wet. Good luck and keep doing what you are doing. As you go, show us what you are up to and if any problems, let us know. All the answers are in the text but in pieces.
    Last edited by prochiro; 01-13-2013, 02:27 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • qvision
    replied
    This is my PWM :

    Power Pulse Modulator - OCX


    Cheers.
    Last edited by qvision; 01-13-2013, 09:55 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • qvision
    replied

    Leave a comment:


  • qvision
    replied
    Hello fellow builders

    UFOPolitics, this is looking amazing. Much respect to your experience, ingenuity and patience ;+}

    I am on page 9 of this thread, fantastic reading but i just had to stop in order to express my amazement and thanks

    Amazing work !!!


    All the best,

    QV.

    Leave a comment:


  • JohnStone
    replied
    Got contact to Nico -> discussing going on!

    Leave a comment:


  • Ufopolitics
    replied
    Absolutely Agree with You John!

    Originally posted by JohnStone View Post
    AGREE!
    My concern is to be a gentelemen to our electronic first in order to test the secure operation area. It does make no sense if we burn FETs after FETs in blind flight.
    i.e.:
    Start with snubbers and check what happens on every specific setup.
    Start with bulbs in series to load (i.e. car bulbs H4, H7) in order to detect failures prior to burning FETs.

    Once we have electronics secure and FETs fitting to the specific application we can get rid of bulbs and snubbers. Ready for takeoff!
    Then the appartment is ready in order to invite HER


    Hello My Dear Friend,

    Yes, absolutely agree with you here...We have to protect the "Tronics"...
    I love the Arduino Microprocessor as We are able to program it very accurate and seen it on our LCD Displays...awesome!
    Your concept with the Opto's is also great, they create a Space Barrier between low voltage signals and the Monster Load we are Pulsing at the other side...
    Using the 555 to enhance the Gate Drive Signals is a very smart and inexpensive way to achieve great results.

    Yes, a PC Display Interface...plus a Manual Pot would be great and enough for our testings for now...

    Let's wait for Nico...(I believe He should be busy having a great time...making excellent BBQ Meet and having some nice Argentinian Red Cabernet Sauvignon ...)...Just kidding Nico!!


    Warm Regards John,


    Ufopolitics

    Leave a comment:


  • JohnStone
    replied
    Hi ALL;
    my circuit diagram is the first draft.
    - I feel the exact type of optos is not essential because the 555 reconditions the signal. But the pullups at in and out (r1...R5) will be tuned for best performance.
    - Same the resistor (R6) between 555 and bases of transistors along 555 bein CMOS or NMOS.
    - Same the gate resistors (R7..R10).
    Those parameters can be tuned at real circuit only.

    I will supply the micro via a socket charger while using another one for 555s. So we are completely independent of the presence, value and spikes of load voltage.
    Everybody owns some socket chargers laying around and this is a simple chance to reuse them. You might need to add an additional voltage regulator. The LM317 is a good choice but needs additional resistors and many of you have problems with it. I prefer 7805 or 7812 fixed regulators. But please note the heat dissipation is minor to the LM317 - but still far suffitient at this specific application. We require no extra heat sink.

    Leave a comment:


  • Lester444
    replied
    Originally posted by Ufopolitics View Post
    Yes, completely right...SHE does NOT likes Snubbers...Flywheelers nor Chokers...
    There you have it folks! You gotta give the lady what she likes! Then she's gonna do wonderful things for you!


    Thanks for being such a "Gentleman" with Our Lady!!...
    You're welcome UFO! My pleasure!

    Leave a comment:


  • JohnStone
    replied
    Originally posted by Ufopolitics View Post
    ...Thanks for being such a "Gentleman" with Our Lady!!...

    Yes, completely right...SHE does NOT likes Snubbers...Flywheelers nor Chokers...
    ...
    AGREE!
    My concern is to be a gentelemen to our electronic first in order to test the secure operation area. It does make no sense if we burn FETs after FETs in blind flight.
    i.e.:
    Start with snubbers and check what happens on every specific setup.
    Start with bulbs in series to load (i.e. car bulbs H4, H7) in order to detect failures prior to burning FETs.

    Once we have electronics secure and FETs fitting to the specific application we can get rid of bulbs and snubbers. Ready for takeoff!
    Then the appartment is ready in order to invite HER
    Last edited by JohnStone; 01-11-2013, 08:04 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ufopolitics
    replied
    Yes, Lester...Pleease...

    Originally posted by Lester444 View Post
    Hello John,

    Yes snubbers seem to be a "necessary evil" at these switching speeds.

    The faster we turn off the FET the higher the flyback voltage will be (V=L x di/dt) and that's great for the radiant provided that the FET can handle the voltage. Unfortunately there is no hard and fast rule for snubbers: Sometimes the coil's inter-winding capacitance is enough to slow down the di/dt and in such a case a sunbber is no longer needed. For this application, it seems counter-productive to put a snubber because intuitively, it will snuff out the radiant lady. I'm sure you know that ladies don't like being "snobbed".

    Alternatively, several high-voltage zener diodes in series with a high-speed diode (reverse connected to the zeners) will work in place of the snubber and this is preferred since it does not waste energy as a snubber does.

    I would put the snubber and/or zeners across the coil, right at the source of the spike.


    A reminder for everyone:
    As we move towards high-energy coils (lots of amperes & lots of inductance) we need to keep the load connected AT ALL TIMES while we are pulsing the coil. Without a load the energy stored in the coil will have no where to go and it will seek the nearest discharge path and that's the FET. It might not survive the high-energy spikes.

    Lester444

    Hello Lester,


    Thanks for being such a "Gentleman" with Our Lady!!...

    Yes, completely right...SHE does NOT likes Snubbers...Flywheelers nor Chokers...


    Regards


    Ufopolitics

    Leave a comment:


  • Ufopolitics
    replied
    Yes Dana, exactly

    Originally posted by prochiro View Post
    JohnStone & UFO
    This circuit looks good for the the new four poster and with just a few changes also for the prime mover. The manual pot is just a three wire plug in at Positive/negative/A0. Amps/temp/rpm can be added just as easily. It can be configures for auto start and stop procedures also. The secret in keeping frequency accurate is by making the frequency loop small and updating analog data maybe every second. This is exciting.
    Dana
    Hello Dana,

    Yes, exactly...it needs to be "expanded"...but we could go as far as our Grey Cells will allow Us...

    Related to running Heavy Duty Motors like this Imperial and the Mag Three...it would be awesome...speed will get reduced from within "The Core" of the Spiral turning in the Machine...as also the Acceleration could be as smooth as we want...or as faster responsive as we select to go...

    The Fact of being controlling the Input by their Quadrants...will also let Us Play with the Output at Generators anytime we want...or as we program them to do...For Example:

    Phase One and Phase Three...are the "Typical Input Gates" that we have set at Motor original drawings...and Motor will run on just those two phase inputs..while we get energy out through Phase Two and Four...when we open from Input with another simple switching circuit that would activate a path for the incoming/generated flow ...say to charge batteries/capacitors,etc...

    But it will also run with Ph 2-3 On...or Ph 1-4...and keep going...

    Full Phase Run would be under heavy load conditions (since we get heavier torque and faster speed)...or whenever powering, say an AC that have a cycle when compressor goes on...then Full Four Phase activate...till it reaches the thermostat point...then goes off...

    Many, many different options could be played with here...and basically for primary Lab Testing...we could check best outputs from Generators Ph 2-4 when Ph 1-3 are On(Motoring)...or Ph 2-3 On and 1-4 Generating...and so on and on...besides, it is also a great way to cool off coils-commutators, while performance continuing and we switch the energized coils positioning order...and it DOES make a difference...believe me...

    I mean, look at the Spiral/Quadrant Partition I have displayed...We will be feeding ONLY at the accurate and exact points in TIME of the Spiral Cycle...and the more precise...the less our energy spent would be...once that we brake the inertia forces and have the flywheel effect on our side...and you know...that this motors brake the inertia very easy...

    The point here is not stopping adding those drops of energy where it is required within the Spiral Cycle...so we maintain an equilibrium of rotational forces...at all times...


    Regards and yes get excited...the Fun is about to begin!!


    Ufopolitics
    Last edited by Ufopolitics; 01-11-2013, 04:24 AM.

    Leave a comment:

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