Originally posted by boguslaw
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My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy
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@Bogusław
Yes this voltage regulator will be enough. High current supply is required for very high frequency switching and when there are parallel MOSFETs connected to the driver. Just put big enough capacitor as a buffer after the voltage regulator.
Pozdrawiam
Piotr
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JohnStone
Can a FET driver like TC4420 be powered by using LM7812 voltage stabilizer (1Amp rated) ? I don't understand what is stated in documentation. They say TC4420 need just 10uA of power but in other side can provide up to 6amps of power pulse to open FET gates. Is that true ? I need to drive two IRFN450 FET's in parallel.
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Originally posted by prochiro View PostJohnStone
In the pmw circuit with multiple fets you stated that unit D should be duplicated for each fet. My question is--- if I am using unit E also, should this duplication be with both D and E or just E next to the fets. This is a good control from 8Hz up to anywhere you want to go.
Dana
- You may drive your FET with a LM358 . You may decide to use LM324 in order to get a quad drive. Remember the switch off action is more essential and you will get a drive of 4x16mA minimum.
You might decide to use a NE555 as driver device only (200mA) - Keep wires SHORT between driver output and FET gate including GND. It is no prblem if you have some distance between generator and driver(s)
- Keep GND line thick between FETS and your driver(s) and generator.
- It is best to double the LM358 in parallel.
- If you use multiple FETs in parallel please take in account that you slow the switching time with the same factor.
- Multiple FETs might do worse than a single one because they have now desastrous switching property starving on drive current at their gate.
In summary:- Start with one generator being a unit for itself - and- one separated driving unit built out of driver (including caps for power) and one FET being all placed close together. This will be a reliable setup.
- Try multiple FETs on that driver and be careful not to burn FETs being possibly poor driven. Keep the wires from driver to gate (including GND) all the same lenth. This might be no reliable setup.
- Duplicate the driver unit (driver, caps, FET) several times and drive them by your singel generator. This will be a reliable setup being scalable with known properties.
Check the maximum driving capability of your signal generator output by calculation.
Hi prochiro!
As you now crowled up to this place: YES it will be advisable to do so! Thus you provide a reliable and scalable set of building stones being testable separated as well!!!!!
I do not claim that other methods will fail but I advise for prdictable and repairable setups.
If you have a working setup - DO NOT CHANGE it - but merely build a new one with separated building blocks as advised above.Last edited by JohnStone; 06-22-2012, 03:12 PM.
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- You may drive your FET with a LM358 . You may decide to use LM324 in order to get a quad drive. Remember the switch off action is more essential and you will get a drive of 4x16mA minimum.
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Fet driver
Larry
The circuit is a fet driver with booster presintes by John Stone in post #841.
The only way to know about these things is to build and compare results. So far I have full control of everything in a rock solit setup up to 24 volts.
Dana
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Carbon Fiber
Originally posted by larryross View PostHi UFO
Hope this isn't too far off topic, but I want to start getting things rounded up for my coil. In a post some time ago you were talking about using carbon fiber as winding instead of copper. If that is true than I can get what is called carbon tow it is way cheaper than magnetic wire and you got me all excited when you talked about how good it would be for radiant. I have figured a simple way to insulate it while winding. The one problem I can see is that the electrical resistance of it is 13 miliohms per foot so it will take many winds to get to 1 ohm or can the secondary be less than 1 ohm. I do plan to use magnet wire for the primary coil. What are your thoughts on this?
Regards
Larry
Hello Larry,
Carbon Fiber have incredible attributes for Radiant, but, as Dana said it is something unknown so far, If you go back to conversation between Bob French and I about it, will find out Bob have same Carbon Fiber Tow...and He is still trying to get it wound and insulated...
So I recommend to keep to the same old magnetic wire as primary for now...and IF to use it, do it for secondary only. since this is your first test.
Regards
Ufopolitics
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Hi DanaOriginally posted by prochiro View PostLarry
Bob and I have been working on carbon for some time and recomend that you wait untill we get some results which all can use. You can work on it also but as of now, this topic need much work befor putting in any system. Just use traditional coil for now is my recommendation.
Dana
What have you and Bob done so far?
And what schematic are you referring to above with unit D and so on?
Regards
LarryLast edited by larryross; 06-22-2012, 11:59 AM.
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Carbon
Larry
Bob and I have been working on carbon for some time and recomend that you wait untill we get some results which all can use. You can work on it also but as of now, this topic need much work befor putting in any system. Just use traditional coil for now is my recommendation.
Dana
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Pwm
JohnStone
In the pmw circuit with multiple fets you stated that unit D should be duplicated for each fet. My question is--- if I am using unit E also, should this duplication be with both D and E or just E next to the fets. This is a good control from 8Hz up to anywhere you want to go.
Dana
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Hi UFOOriginally posted by Ufopolitics View PostHello all
I consider this explanation as very important, not only for this coil app, but also for winding Motors Generators in my future Thread.
Below I uploaded same pics as Ian Koglin, both options, reflecting the way magnetic fields will project in each coil...
Option Two: Total Electro Magnetic Field strength=N1+N3-N2,
meaning N1-N2=0
Therefore Total EMF=Just N3 Coil
Option Three:Total EM Field strength= N1+N2+N3
Regards
Ufopolitics
Hope this isn't too far off topic, but I want to start getting things rounded up for my coil. In a post some time ago you were talking about using carbon fiber as winding instead of copper. If that is true than I can get what is called carbon tow it is way cheaper than magnetic wire and you got me all excited when you talked about how good it would be for radiant. I have figured a simple way to insulate it while winding. The one problem I can see is that the electrical resistance of it is 13 miliohms per foot so it will take many winds to get to 1 ohm or can the secondary be less than 1 ohm. I do plan to use magnet wire for the primary coil. What are your thoughts on this?
Regards
Larry
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Kogs Coil
Also all my next coils will be wound contiguausly not as single strandsOriginally posted by iankoglin View PostG'Day UFO
I have only 12 strands
I have configured my coil as from outside strands inward Option 1
The resistances are inseries
1 to 5 = 1.08 Ohms
1 to 6 = 1.26 Ohms
1 to 7 = 1.42 Ohms
I can have probably outer coil =1.42 Ohms and secondary probably 1.08 Ohms( I didnot connect secondary yet)
Or
2 Primary coils only as 1 to 6 above in parallel probably1.26 Ohms in total
Please what do you advise
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Regards Kogs
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Primary
Kogs,Originally posted by iankoglin View PostG'Day UFO
I have only 12 strands
I have configured my coil as from outside strands inward Option 1
The resistances are inseries
1 to 5 = 1.08 Ohms
1 to 6 = 1.26 Ohms
1 to 7 = 1.42 Ohms
I can have probably outer coil =1.42 Ohms and secondary probably 1.08 Ohms( I didnot connect secondary yet)
Or
2 Primary coils only as 1 to 6 above in parallel probably1.6 Ohms in total
Please what do you advise
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Regards Kogs
Parallel Multifilar Primary works best. But RECHECK RESISTANCE TO BE SURE ABOVE 1 OHM!!
Anyways, do not worry too much except to be above 1 ohm , (I can tell you are worrying too much..
) like I told you before, you have bolted connectors that could be very easily connect-reconnect...so make tests on different ways...draw your conclusions on best approach/outputs...write them down and share them here so the rest could learn also...
I forgot to tell you... that as long as wires ares together and not divided by a heavy insulator or core...the secondary could be sandwiched or above primary, or even mixed with...I was referring before to isolated secondaries by a core...so do not pay too much attention on rewinding it again to get secondary all the way inside the core...it will work also..sorry about it...I got confused there...but still prevails same laws...Radiant induces best from Outside-In.
Regards
Ufopolitics
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Kogs Coil
G'Day UFOOriginally posted by Ufopolitics View PostHello Ian,
The Primary should be wired as a Multifilar , meaning all strands together, do not need to twist them, just straight but keeping them together as you wire, since they tend to spread apart (not good).
Now Radiant transfers from OUTSIDE-IN, and NOT good, very weak when secondary is located in the outer embodiment of Coil, or on top of Primary. So, my best recommend is to wire first your secondary right next to coil core, then the Primary above it.
So, No Ian...it is the "other way around"...Secondary FIRST, then Primary to be at the Outer Coil Embodiment.
And just forget about Option Two (2)...like Dana said...it kills, cancel EM Field between them, big ZERO, no matter how you've wound the coil...And the Magnetic Field is what We should care the most here!!
Regards
Ufopolitics
I have only 12 strands
I have configured my coil as from outside strands inward Option 1
The resistances are inseries
1 to 5 = 1.08 Ohms
1 to 6 = 1.26 Ohms
1 to 7 = 1.42 Ohms
I can have probably outer coil =1.42 Ohms and secondary probably 1.08 Ohms( I didnot connect secondary yet)
Or
2 Primary coils only as 1 to 6 above in parallel probably1.6 Ohms in total
Please what do you advise

Regards Kogs
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Kogs Coil
G'Day UFOOriginally posted by Ufopolitics View PostHello Ian,
The Primary should be wired as a Multifilar , meaning all strands together, do not need to twist them, just straight but keeping them together as you wire, since they tend to spread apart (not good).
Now Radiant transfers from OUTSIDE-IN, and NOT good, very weak when secondary is located in the outer embodiment of Coil, or on top of Primary. So, my best recommend is to wire first your secondary right next to coil core, then the Primary above it.
So, No Ian...it is the "other way around"...Secondary FIRST, then Primary to be at the Outer Coil Embodiment.
And just forget about Option Two (2)...like Dana said...it kills, cancel EM Field between them, big ZERO, no matter how you've wound the coil...And the Magnetic Field is what We should care the most here!!
Regards
Ufopolitics
I have only 12 strands
I have configured my coil as from outside strands inward Option 1
The resistances are inseries
1 to 5 = 1.08 Ohms
1 to 6 = 1.26 Ohms
1 to 7 = 1.42 Ohms
I can have probably outer coil =1.42 Ohms and secondary probably 1.08 Ohms( I didnot connect secondary yet)
Or
2 Primary coils only as 1 to 6 above in parallel probably1.6 Ohms in total
Please what do you advise
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Regards Kogs
Leave a comment:
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Option 1 Versus Option 2 Fields
Hello all
I consider this explanation as very important, not only for this coil app, but also for winding Motors Generators in my future Thread.
Below I uploaded same pics as Ian Koglin, both options, reflecting the way magnetic fields will project in each coil...
Option Two: Total Electro Magnetic Field strength=N1+N3-N2,
meaning N1-N2=0
Therefore Total EMF=Just N3 Coil
Or 1N
Option One:Total EM Field strength= N1+N2+N3
Or 3N
Regards
UfopoliticsLast edited by Ufopolitics; 07-11-2012, 06:37 AM.
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