Cutting the Radio Shack motor housing technique.
For those continuing to build this using the Radio Shack motor, was able to use a Rigid pipe cutter, vise to hold the pipe cutter and a drill to turn the housing. Once set up, took less than a minute to cleanly and evenly cut each section of the housing. Thought this technique would help those that do not have a lathe to do this with.
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Hi Ufo,Originally posted by Ufopolitics View PostHello Torpex,
Hey listen, I wanted to thank you for your latest post on My Asymmetrical Machines...
It helps me to see who is "ON MY SIDE"...
I never expected YOU to be on "THE OTHER SIDE" AMIGO!!
Muchas Gracias Torpex...con amigos como Tu...quien necesita enemigos??
Regards
Ufopolitics
I feel that my comments have seemed "THE OTHER SIDE", It was not my intention.
I joined this thread for more than 3 months. I posted all my progress, successes and failures. All my data is here.
My attitude has always been positive and collaborative.
This is a forum to participate, there are always doubts and questions, you are free to answer whatever you want, but it is assumed that the objective is to validate your work. It is not easy... different components, different equipment, different measurement system and different viewpoints...
About your work and your attitude:
I respect and appreciate you, your attitude to share is commendable.
In the technical area I have my doubts, time will tell whether or not dissipate, really does not matter.
But mostly, I think the most important is that you do not feel bad for people's comments. Not your responsibility.
I think your mission is accomplished when you expose your work. People are free to do whatever they want.
Thank you very much for your work and attitude.
I sent you an email about other personal issues. Let me know if not reached (of course in Spanish)
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Hey Torpex...
Originally posted by torpex View Post
Hello Torpex,
Hey listen, I wanted to thank you for your latest post on My Asymmetrical Machines...
It helps me to see who is "ON MY SIDE"...
I never expected YOU to be on "THE OTHER SIDE" AMIGO!!
Muchas Gracias Torpex...con amigos como Tu...quien necesita enemigos??
Regards
Ufopolitics
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Hello my friend there!!
Originally posted by thugugly View PostHi Johnstone,
Sorry for the confusion above, I was still half asleep.
I was talking about hi/lo switching above, I thought ufo already had the timing sensors worked out, so then I thought he might of had the switching figured out as well.
But he said he doesn't, so I will keep trying when ever I get a chance,
BTW How's your motor coming?
Thug
Hey Thug!!
Great Stator Core...and yes it could be perfectly pulsed and rotate the Armature...you are getting ahead...lol...it will spin that armature Thug..exactly that way you are saying...it has to be connected parallel Stator Input Brushes...we get juices from both...
Now incrediblle, I am working on a video am making just about this "scenario", however, here I am planning to knock out of their socks...all the Classic Physics defenders...
You will see it later on or early morning...am editing too long video...
The thing is Thug...I am not using a Steel Frame to induce and rotate that armature...and still get power out...How?
A Fiberglass core...specially built to allow armature through, but just a single Asymmetric Coil...Thug...no Dual Symmetric Stators...just one single coil of bifilar wire...1.0 Ohms...with diodes...
This will "prove beyond doubt" my Theory of the Inductor swapping magnetic fields..."No Steel Required"
End of it...
Many regards friend
UFO
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Hi Johnstone,
Sorry for the confusion above, I was still half asleep.
I was talking about hi/lo switching above, I thought ufo already had the timing sensors worked out, so then I thought he might of had the switching figured out as well.
But he said he doesn't, so I will keep trying when ever I get a chance,
BTW How's your motor coming?
Thug
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Hi ufo and everyone,
Ufo, I made a video of a coil I used to light a cfl. I'm sure you've experimented with one of these. It came out of an old drill. I thought it might be useful when you did your vid showing the two fields, spinning your small home-made motor.
Tonight was the first time I tried it.
stationary coil - YouTube
I was gonna post it the new thread but then I thought this would be better.
Just wanting some comments on possibilities, if there are any?
Thug
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torpex
Hi torpex
13 strands of what and in what configuration? I would like the info because we are testing with carbon fiber and could use this data for comparason.
"50 mm. diam., 58 mm high, 13 strands.
Works fine, the best in comparison with the others above.
Peak voltage with 12v: 570v"
Thanks, Dana
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H/L Side N-Fets
Hi all,
Sorry, a little busy in these days
@netica
Thank you very much for the clarification.
@Kogs
I'm glad that the circuit progresses. I'll have to read all the tests you have made.
@All
Now I have a working H/L side N-Fets. Also testing new coil.
Tests with 26v
Low side only with two rails (6 fets).
High and Low, tested with one rail (3 fets) low and other rail high.
Also with two rails (6 fets) low side and with one rail (3 fets) High.
Improvements (fixed in the same setting):
Current drain reduction, 260-270mA Low side only, 230-240mA H/L side.
Peak voltage: 302v L, 380v H/L
These are my data
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Hi Ufo,Originally posted by Ufopolitics View Post...
By the way John, I have been working on your eight pole but it is not a simple deal...is too "Symmetric"...and the problem with this type of "conversions" is that Input-Output Coils can NOT coincide at their delivery terminals...at 180 degrees, or they will cancel to zero energy output...I tried many other set ups including the 5 Pyramid type...won't work...I have tried the 20 Poles Bosch...nada...But I will keep trying...
as a 8-pole armature is rare it might not be of future value to elaborate it. I will focus an odd pole armatures.
Warm regards
John
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G'Day LarryOriginally posted by larryross View PostHi Ian
Here is some thing that might interest you.
Oscilloscope Tutorial Part 1 - Choosing an oscilloscope - YouTube
Regards
Larry
Thanks for the references I have been watching and trying to learn
I thought I had sent this some time ago As I am rereading the posts I saw it was not posted I do have trouble sometimes it posts and sometimes not
Kindest Regards
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Hello guys
Originally posted by JohnStone View PostHi,
sorry confused, what schematic do you refer to?
I am fairly shure Ufo refers to "opto" as sensor for rotor angle in order to fire the coils (similar to car ignition) - omiting the use of commutators for the motors. That is another league to play than your concern.
Nevertheless the opto drivers for FETs may be another building stone for the future setup. In this case the optos above will control the opto drivers. A plurality of circuits possible.
rgds John
Hello John, Hello Thug,
Yes John is right...Thug, I am not talking about electronics...am quite amateur in those fields...so you guys keep going...
The Opto I was referring to, are like John says, an Isolated but through air emitter-receiver IR...just closing and opening simple mechanical-mirroring type...is that possible John to do?...The Infra Red that sends the PWM signaling...should be very complicated,...I leave that for the Experts like Mr John Stone to design it...
By the way John, I have been working on your eight pole but it is not a simple deal...is too "Symmetric"...and the problem with this type of "conversions" is that Input-Output Coils can NOT coincide at their delivery terminals...at 180 degrees, or they will cancel to zero energy output...I tried many other set ups including the 5 Pyramid type...won't work...I have tried the 20 Poles Bosch...nada...But I will keep trying...
Regards to both of you Gentlemen
Ufo
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@ John Stone
G'Day John Stone
I know, I know how lost you feel in these matters. Now let's see what I can do for you!
Thanks for your help
Oh: Move the switch from GND to + lead. Disconnecting GND can destroy a lot of values you possibly can't replace!
Larry did tell me to do this some time ago I did change the switch It is now in the Positive line I did not change the diagram
1. First of all the question: what measurement tools do you have. A DVM is less than basic.
Yes I do have 3 DMM 2 Dick smith (they read .o5v different to each other)and 1 Digitec QM1575 an Analogue Oscilloscope 2 channel LVang YB4328
2. You shoud learn, that it is very important to isolate functional units for test and examination. Perhaps you remember my circuit suggested - was devided in individual measurable circuits. Step by step they can be added up to a functioning oscillator.
2a:It does not matter that you have another circuit but please examine your oscillator first. You should know it to be functioning and not guess. No blind flight please!
I did show a vid with my Mob Phone of the Oscillator as I turned the pot it is here
Sho UFO :: Scope of Oscillator while turning pot video by Kogs1 - Photobucket
Some measurements on Output of Oscillator Before 10k Resistor to Mosfet Gate Measured on a Dick Smith DMM
Pot=zero, D/C=3.1, Htz=0, v=2.1, Lights dim(3x12v bulbs in series
Pot=half, D/C=50%,Htz=4.94, v=4.92, Lights well lit
Pot=Full, D/C=98%, Htz=4.57, v=9.59, Lights very bright
I hope these ore OK
I will continue with the other tests later today Mon 16July 2012 after I finish examining the rest of your instructions and have built the small circuit
2b: Examine the FET stage before you connect the oscillator. As I mentioned above it is essential for FET health to get it controlled right. If not - it will be killed.
As I mentioned above you should not be content below 8 or 10 Volt.
BTW: What FET do you use, I will tell you what voltage to apply - minimum.
Now, how to test the FET stage?
The FETS are STP11NK40Z I purchased 25 from Element14 along with the LM317KCS regulators and MUR440E3/54 Fast diodes
Some diodes I got on Ebay arehttp://www.ebay.ca/itm/390420545632?...84.m1439.l2649
Put the coil apart for now and use a resistor instead as load. You can calculate the current depending of your voltage. Start with 1 A (12V / 12Ohm or 24V 24Ohm)
- Connect the resistor directly to the battery and measure the current.
- Connect a LED with a 1K resistor in parallel to the resistor. It will go on if you reconnect the assembly to your battery. The same will do the FET later on.
- Build the assembly above with FET in series. See schematic
- Connect a 10K pot to 12 V and measure the varying voltage at the wiper.
- Connect the assembly to the FET (wiper = gate / GND to source)
- Increase V3 up to the minimum V2. Now you have the minimum voltage for driving 1A at this current temperature. (Operate circuit short time only because of heat)
- Similar measurement with more current - check voltage necessary
- Check with coil (1 Ohm) again -> for very short time
Now you have educarted yourself and know what your FET stage is capable of.
3. NOW: You are ready for connecting your oscillator -> BUT: start with 1Amp and LED again and perform the steps above with oscillator.[/QUOTE]
John Thanks a heap
Kindest Regards
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Hi,Originally posted by thugugly View Post... have you guys had a chance to look at the hi side optos?
.....
UFO, do you already have the high low optics worked out, I'll continue with the optics if it's needed, it's really fun, but you have to say.
...
sorry confused, what schematic do you refer to?
I am fairly shure Ufo refers to "opto" as sensor for rotor angle in order to fire the coils (similar to car ignition) - omiting the use of commutators for the motors. That is another league to play than your concern.
Nevertheless the opto drivers for FETs may be another building stone for the future setup. In this case the optos above will control the opto drivers. A plurality of circuits possible.
rgds JohnLast edited by JohnStone; 07-15-2012, 09:54 PM.
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