My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[Ufopolitics]

Ian I am very happy it is working excellent !!

G'Day UFO and All

I just now connected a small Motor instead of the CLF Bulb
It is a MY68 24v 6amp
I went really well I could not stop it
I then replaced it with a larger motor
A MY1018 36v 9.5Amp
It really took off I had to stop it as the heatsink was heating up very fast.

I really should get my Camcorder lady to take some vids
She said she has to learn how to use it first

My Friend Andrew is still trying to find 2 Windscreen motors to make one. He has several from the same make and model cars but they are all different he has decided how to fit the parts together to make one now so I imagine I should be able to wire one up soon.

Regards to all



Still trying getting there

Hello Ian!!


Ian, I am very happy it is working excellent for you my friend!!


Nice!!


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Excellent Testing Woopy!!

Hi all

i am very happy to replicate this fantastic experiment

good luck at all

laurent

cold electricity testing replication 1 - YouTube

Hello Woopy!!


Excellent testing!!...very simple Uh?...
Nice set up you've got there my friend!!


Thank You!


Ufopolitics

[woopy]

Hi all

i am very happy to replicate this fantastic experiment

good luck at all

laurent

cold electricity testing replication 1 - YouTube

[iankoglin]

Kogs Update

G'Day ALL
I have just now got my RS Motor going on the other thread and I decided that seeing so mant tried to help me see the light I must now try and see if I can -------WELL HERE IT IS

Kogs UFO Photos :: Kogs sees the LIGHT video by Kogs1 - Photobucket


Now I am sure it will be plain sailing from here on

@ Larry where is your setup I keep looking for it, have you finished it yet
Please show us here I am sure we would all like to see it


Kindest regards especially to you UFO AND all THOSE that helped me

G'Day UFO and All

I just now connected a small Motor instead of the CLF Bulb
It is a MY68 24v 6amp
I went really well I could not stop it
I then replaced it with a larger motor
A MY1018 36v 9.5Amp
It really took off I had to stop it as the heatsink was heating up very fast.

I really should get my Camcorder lady to take some vids
She said she has to learn how to use it first

My Friend Andrew is still trying to find 2 Windscreen motors to make one. He has several from the same make and model cars but they are all different he has decided how to fit the parts together to make one now so I imagine I should be able to wire one up soon.

Regards to all



Still trying getting there

[iankoglin]

At Last Kogs has the light

G'Day ALL
I have just now got my RS Motor going on the other thread and I decided that seeing so mant tried to help me see the light I must now try and see if I can -------WELL HERE IT IS

Kogs UFO Photos :: Kogs sees the LIGHT video by Kogs1 - Photobucket


Now I am sure it will be plain sailing from here on

@ Larry where is your setup I keep looking for it, have you finished it yet
Please show us here I am sure we would all like to see it


Kindest regards especially to you UFO AND all THOSE that helped me

[gsmsslsb]

Hello ufopolitics
This is my first post in this thread.
I have been reading through the preceeding pages but I do not have my own internet connection so a lot of the pages are blocked I am not sure why. (maybe they have bad language etc)
I have read the pages that I can and I would like to replicate the coil device.
if you have a few moments could you look at this link starting on page 3-124.

http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/Chapter3.pdf

It is patrick kelly's condensation of the information in this thread to date.
If there are any glaring problems with the information at that link could you point it out. I think it may be a good resource for all those trying to get up to speed here as it has a lot of the information together that is spread out through the thread.
Thank you
LV

[Lightworker1]

Hello UFO,
Thanks for presenting vision regarding carbon fibers and their possible use in circuits, motors and ant-gravity devices of future. It was enjoyable and exciting read.

Regards and Many Thanks

[sputnik]

Hi Dana
And thanks for even more valuable info. Yes, I do understand exactly what you are saying. Although plastic sheet tightly sewed could do well too, but I grasp what you mean. And it sounds like you have gone to quite an effort to understand it.
Yes, I got one of those fancy new scopes (used of course). It was quite cheap and although I could have gone even cheaper with a quite usable old style scope size is important to me, they are too cool being so thin. Where's the big suitcase that's supposed to be behind it?
Did order, order, order today. Much coming from China, so about 2 weeks before I can really get rolling. I also did get a small quantity of TOW, 2 6 foot pieces of 48K for some general fooling around ($3.50 delivered), we'll see where that goes. Since you set me straight on that issue I'm not going to let it hold me up, but I do have some ideas I wish to try.
Tomorrow the last of the ordering (components for the PWM setup) and then a trip to Radio Shack to see if I can save the shipping cost on the two motors. Then maybe I can do something besides twiddle my thumbs waiting on shipments.

[prochiro]

CF

Hi sputnik
One thing I forgot to mention is that we used 1/16 heat shrink to house the CF tow. After heating the finished tube, it was vary small in diameter. However, it seems that one of the reasons that the tow is poor is that even with that small of distance between the tow wires, it is too much. The flat one inch and two inch wide CF workes because the covering is food rap and the surface is a wide solid layer. We have found that CF is so totally absorbing everything in its surface that rolling it two layers thick does nothing more as everything goes into the first layer. Nothing gets thru to second layer. I hope you get what I am saying. The fabric you are talking about is maybe much thicker than food rap and will seperate the coil CF wires too much.
Dana

[AllPhase]

good points.

Good points.

[prochiro]

CF

Hi sputnik
You will like the new digital scopes and learn more from them. As bob and I have seen with the flat tape shape CF, it does not work well as a primary coil. Short pieces (6 to 12 feet) do well as secondary when placed first on a core but not when put into the core center. Bob has even placed CF and copper in alternate layers but found that it seems as whatever energy the copper produces can be collected in one short strand of CF. CF can only collect what you cause to be generated and it will take only a small amount to get it all. Buy maybe a couple 12 foot sections first. The CF is not magical but is a super conductor so may be overkill for the voltage we use. You can do the exact same thing with copper or CF at out voltages now. We have gotten just short of 600 voltes from 12 volts with nothing really for amps in both copper and CF. Stay with UFO if you can with current teaching and do not get lost on CF. There will be plenty of time later to tune up a system once it is togeather. I am sure that Bob would like to have more ideas on CF but is hard to reach due to communication blackouts, no power and limited phone availability.
Dana

[sputnik]

back Dana!
Thanks much, good info there. I still may give it a go after I scan back thru the thread a little, I did find it was pretty cheap here, first hit on Google, I'd look more carefully 1st though. I though Bob had some really good results with it but so much going on maybe I was confused. My ship finally comes in tomorrow, so big order day Buy buy buy
Got a nice scope on ebay today, don't have to put up with the PC audio card thing. Worked with good scopes all day for many years, don't think I could have lived with that for long. I know it's not needed a lot here yet, but we'll see.

[prochiro]

Tow

Hi sputnik
The carbon tow (thread like) has not provided to date, enough power to go to all that trouble. The one or two inch wide CF does provide much voltage but little amps. But so does copper coils. Bob may aggree or may not, I do not know for sure, but while he is testing the CF, I would concentrate time and money in other areas of this tech. Use copper secondaries for now as if the CF does work better later, everyone can add that later. What I see to date is that the copper is actually cheaper, easier to work with and doing an equal job. The superconductor thing about CF may show better than copper if higher volts and longer lengths were used but with what voltage we are using now, myself, I can not see the advantage yet.
Dana

[sputnik]

hey bobfrench, how's your sewing skills?

Hi. I am making my list of things to order, gonna especially start right here with the coil experiments, even though I am TOTALLY thrilled with the motor thread. I think UFOPolitics did the right thing starting with this. I'll get to the motors soon.
But anyhow, I'm really interested in what the TOW can do and I've seen bobfrench talk about it and the problem with insulating it.

Bob, have you ever done any sewing? ahem. Well, I spent a few years renovating the early 70's RV that I now live in, it isn't like renewing a car, nor a house, it's a very unique experience and you must acquire skills you never thought you would.

So you see Bob, just like you, I'm QUITE interested in "off-the-grid", this homestead's on wheels and there AIN'T no grid.

There's a technique in sewing called welting. Here's a picture of welting.
Everyone's seen it even if they didn't know the proper name for it, many car & boat seats have it as well as furniture.
They normally just sew the same material as the seat cover around a plastic straw. Normally a 1/4" flap of material is left one edge, they use this to sew it onto the seat cushion, whatever. I've never done it, but there are video instructions on youtube.

Before you start thinking that this sounds like a lot of trouble, and it would be if there weren't tools for accomplishing it, they make special welting foot attachments for sewing machines like these. I should think a foot or two a minute or probably much better might be obtained. There are really cheap grades of cloth, the cost of that would be negligible. Probably just cut it into one-inch strips, something like that. The welting feet come in 1/8" - 1/2" slot sizes, maybe more, and they cost about $15. Like this one that fits my machine. Now you just gotta find somebody with a sewing machine...

For you non-sewers out there, a foot kind of holds down 2 pieces of cloth as they go through the area where the sewing needle punches the thread through them. In this case, there is a half-moon slot on the bottom of the foot, so once you clamp it down with the TOW and cloth in place, it SHOULD be a no-brainer to just keep feeding tow and cloth through, no fancy sewing skills needed. It sews very close, I mean very close around the straw (TOW). You've all seen how tightly it appears to be attached to the straw on your car seats. So when finished it should be easy to cut off the excess cloth with scissors and have something very similar to an insulated wire with a tight thread "joint" on one edge. Come to think of it, you could probably even sew plastic sheet around it.

Well, anyhow, I'm in the planning/ordering stages and that occurred to me, so I thought I'd pass it on in case you're interested. I think that's the way I'm going, perhaps even dip it in some paraffin when the sewing is done.
Besides, just think how cool to be using cloth covered "wire", just like the inventors of the Golden Age...

[yipyipdog]

Hello Dave45,

No, I have not tried two toroid magnets in opposition, however, let me explain the behavior so you could judge what will happen when you do...
The Coil is oriented by Hot pulses to be North Top, South Bottom, which is equal to: [N/S]. Now the Magnet that I put in must be oriented same as Hot Pulsed Field, or [N/S] in order to be ascended and staying into levitation.
If I put it the other way around, or [S/N] it will just vibrate but no levitation, will stay in the floor...
Therefore (and answering your question)...The magnet (toroid) that would be opposing to right oriented one will not ascend, nor levitate, just vibrate...if they would be attracted to each other configuring one magnet , with same orientation...it will suck them both in, and levitate them.

To understand this behavior we must analyze the Radiant Magnetic Field, opposing the Hot pulsed field, or same as [S/N].

Hot Field=[N/S]
Radiant Field=[S/N]

However, Radiant Field is located right at very center of Hot, which looks like:

N(Hot)/S(Radiant)/N(Radiant)/S(Hot)

That configures the positioning of the Chain of magnetic links on this Coil.

The magnet oriented N/S will levitate because of Radiant EM Field being stronger than Hot EM Field...Radiant S (on top center) will attract N of levitating magnet, while N Radiant (on bottom-center), will attract S of magnet...However, Hot field will 'compensate' the magnetic fields on the floating magnet by establishing a N/S repulsion at the upper-lower extremes...

That is what I understand so far, related to this phenomena.

I hope it helped your question.

Regards

Ufopolitics

Hello again UFO,

I have seen your video and now seem to finally understand what is happening here after reading you explanation. It is quite apparent that the negative (cold) south pole has to be much stronger than the positive (hot) north pole in the upper region (vise-versa in the lower portion) of the coil in order for the pm to orientate itself as it does.

First off, I wish to express my appreciation of your willingness to share here. Our world would have been much different today if not for the greed of others who have made similar discoveries and held their personal profit above all else by patenting their devices without fully disclosing everything about their operation. This sadly references individuals such as Tesla, Gray, Sweet, and the list goes on and on. Cold electricity still today is barely understood as most discoverers wish to keep their findings secret and those secrets are lost with their passing. One can only hope someone else will rediscover them again.

Let me state that I am just as much a novice when working with cold electricity as I am an expert at working with hot. Yes, I have destroyed my share of electrical meters (flukes and cheepos), but I still have no idea what I am actually looking for or how to find it. In reading these posts (on page 12 now) I am picking up tidbits here and there, but feel that a lack of understanding of the nature of cold is my biggest hurdle.

UFO, if you could please write a few paragraphs explaining the true nature of cold as you currently understand it I believe this would help many here to understand what their devices are striving to accomplish. Like how it manifests, flows, is stored, is manipulated, etc. Don't get me wrong here. I firmly believe that in order for one to really understand that they must build and obverse things their selves. There is no substitute for hands-on experience. With that being said, I also believe that hands-on is not very productive without first understanding the underlying principles of that which they are working with. Many layman could build functional radio set from a kit with the provided wiring diagram, and yet have no concept of what makes it work.

Cheers to everyone and especially UFO

Electricman442