Peter Daysh Davey Water Heater Query

[Slovenia]

Correction!!

I heard back from my "C" today and he said my device wouldn't work because my can was to short. He said it needed to be 200 mm in length and tuned to 60 hz. In previously, I was told 150 mm so go with the 200 mm figure and not the 150 mm. Now I have to remake my lower can.

I think the 150 mm length may be for the 50 hz European sonic boiler. The 150 mm measurement was the original measurement we were given, and at that time we were talking only about the European version. So, we need to make that change on our diagrams.

Here is a 200 mm can. If you're putting two pop cans together, you need to cut them as long as possible, because when you mate them together, you're just going to have 200 mm with nothing to spare. So, keep that in mind.

Oh, the cans fit together fairly tight but I added super glue to the seam on the outside of the can assembly to make sure everything held together right. I added it to the seam all the way around the seam.

[Slovenia]

Ring Pics

As promised, here are my ring pics. These are pics of the negative electrode ring that goes around the end of the open side of the pop can electrode.

This was an interesting exercise fabricating this piece. It looks easy but Murphy's law does apply. There are many things that can go wrong if you don't pay attention. Anyway, I had a 10" length of the 5mm wide material. As I said earlier, this piece was made from a large tinned steel can. I cut it the long way which was 10" in my case and then cut it wide enough that I could bend and overlap it lengthwise for strength. It needs all the help it can get rigid-wise because it is a flimsy piece of material to say the least. The circumference of the ring is 8.5", so I had enough material to allow for .75" excess material to be bent at a 90 degree angle on both ends of the stock to be used later for connecting the two ends together for strength. It worked out very well. I formed the radius on my stock with the help of one of my metal fence posts. It was 2.5" diameter fence post. Then I put my end tabs in the vice and soldered both ends together.

[Slovenia]

Gap

The gap is tricky since there is hardly any space at all between the ring and the can. Everything has to be just perfect and it's not a perfect world.

[Slovenia]

Gordon

Gordon, your support helped too. Thanks!!

[Slovenia]

Thanks!!

Chet,

Thanks!! I just saw this post for the first time two minutes ago at 6:52 p.m.. The ring is a bit of a pain but it's fun working on this. Mr. "C" is still sharing and he gets back to me quickly when I ask him something. I try not to bother him to often since I should have had this prototype made a long time ago and didn't get it done because of other stuff going on at the ranch. Thanks for all your support!! It has made a difference. I was about ready to leave here with my ball and play somewhere else but you made the difference and I stayed. We must be getting to close to something very good because I've never been attacked on any other project as bad as I have been on this one.

Best Regards,
Slovenia

I might add I'm jealous that your getting to play with this and anxious to get caught up and "do the Tune".

My gut tells me this will make HHO also with some mods.
and it just so happens that Gordon posted a very good example of this earlier!
{WaterEnergy1 vid]

This device [Mr.C's]touches so many previous claims on stupendous heat and HH0 production using "mains" and mysterious frequency.I also like the input exnihiloest gave at OUR that it would take "pressure everywhere" to do this.

Seeing what the pistol shrimp can do to the water molecules with "pressure"
I agree!!!!! Pressure !!
The bug [pistol shrimp] gets the water up to 9000 degrees with his pressure event in a "Flash" [sonoluminescence].

That would be nice.........
I believe we will be learning some new things here!

I am excited to play with this and so happy you have Mr.C to assist![that part is Priceless]


Chet

[Slovenia]

Simplicity

Simplicity is what is troubling everyone about this project. It just seems to simple to work, and everyone wants to know how the inventor came up with this design and the physics to support the device. I will say this. The inventor is a very well educated smart person and has a more complicated similar device just about ready for patent, so much information about the physics of our present device will not be shared to protect his other work.

Anyway, even though this device is simple it needs to be tuned perfectly to work properly as described. The tuning is done by sanding the top of the can and testing it with the nail as described earlier in the pdf and thread. The gap is of great importance too. It needs to be just so all the way around the can.

So there you have it in a nutshell.

[Slovenia]

Update on Negative Electrode Ring

I've been working on the negative electrode ring today and that's pretty fun. The metal to the specifications shared with us is very flimsy and hard to work with. The thickness is supposed to be .2mm and the width is supposed to be 5mm, and the ring is right at 8.5" long. So, when you make a ring of this material you're going to need to support it from more than one side. This may have to be supported from at least three sides equidistant spaced. I finally did make it out of tinned steel from a steel can. I found a big can; cut out a wide piece; folded it over with the aid of a vice; cut myself out a length of 5mm X 9" of .2mm sheet; and started trying to fashion a ring out of it.

This is going to take some thought to do this right so the prototype will work first time. I'd like to put this baby together this week so I can show my guy some good faith. I'll attach a picture of my ring later this evening.

[Slovenia]

Resonance of Stacked American Cans

Surprisingly, these stacked American cans might just work. They ring really nice once put together perfectly parallel with each other.

[MonsieurM]

check this video out, i think it helps understand what to do:

russian (translate it in google )

electromechanical resonance coil

constant pulse current 40A, the frequency varies from 1 to 40Hz

электромеханический резонанс соленоида - YouTube

[Slovenia]

Prototype Ring

I think we can make a quick prototype ring out of steel can material. It will be expedient to acquire and easy to cut and form to the proper specifications. Right now I need to have something I can show pronto. Steel tin can material doesn't work. Maybe copper will.

P.S.: When you make a taller can by joining to shorter cans it does effect the over all structure of the assembly. It puts a bind in the area where the two cans are joined and prevents the can from vibrating properly in that area. There is a resonance in the can though that is good. I'll continue to play with it since I haven't been able to acquire a 500 ml beer can yet.

[RAMSET]

He's such a slave driver!

A No nonsense kind of Guy?
I like it!!

Chet

[Slovenia]

Nice Stout Ring

He says the thickness of the ring should be right at .2mm and that the width of the material should be right at 5mm. The inside diameter of the ring should be 68.45mm for US and 69.2mm for Europe.

Good job. I have to get my ring started today. My contact wants to see the finished deal now.

Slovenia
Heres a pic of My ring,Its Beefy Brass easy to add or remove material with Hone and brush plating.

The stud is 1/2 inch [not threaded yet]

The intent is to make this part as solid as possible [my intent]?
Ask him how he feels about that? {its a Chrome plated Brass Oar lock}

HHMMMmmmmmmmm "The Sonic Beer can Cannon" ,Just thinking of Names for this device? [lots of places to go with that venue !!]

Chet

[RAMSET]

Ask Mr.C

Slovenia
Heres a pic of My ring,Its Beefy Brass easy to add or remove material with Hone and brush plating.

The stud is 1/2 inch [not threaded yet]

The intent is to make this part as solid as possible [my intent]?
Ask him how he feels about that? {its a Chrome plated Brass Oar lock}

HHMMMmmmmmmmm "The Sonic Beer can Cannon" ,Just thinking of Names for this device? [lots of places to go with that venue !!]

Chet
PS
POST NUMBERS CHANGE HERE WHENEVER SOMEONE WANTS TO "DELETE"
You Post 205 is not there anymore??[the "data PDF Link"]

[Slovenia]

Stacking American Cans?

If you are going to be stacking American cans to make your own 150mm/5.9" can, I have a few suggestions for you.
1.) Make the bottom can your receiving can. The top can will fit into it about .5".
2.) For the upper can to fit into the lower can with no difficulty, you'll need to have a slightly beveled edge on the base of the upper can. This can be accomplished by cutting the top out of a can and leaving a slight inward bevel of about 1/8". The beveled part will then fit into the base can with ease without deforming it or the top can. The top can needs to be stuck into the receiving can approximately .5" for a good secure fit. Take care not to deform the open sided top of the can while pressing the cans together.
3.) The top can needs to be substantially longer than the bottom can so that it's vibrating ability is not compromised. I'd make the base can 2.5" and the top can 4" and cut the top can accordingly as you tune the assembly. Don't make the assembly shorter than 150mm.
4.) Only sand the outer top edge of the can. Sand it as thin as necessary and that is supposed to be very thin. It's supposed to be a tapered sanding with a very sharp edge at the top of the can. The can is thin metal anyway, so this is going to be interesting.

[Slovenia]

No European 500ml Can?

Don't worry about it. You can make your own by putting together two American 12 oz pop cans or beer cans. They just slide right together to give you the 150mm of length you need for this project. They sound great too. I haven't tuned mine to 60 hz yet, but tomorrow I'll make an attempt to do so.

The assembled cans are only proof of concept to show the cans will fit together. The can assembly should be 2.5" base can and 4" top can.