Found treasure, could use some advice

[dR-Green]

do you think it would be possible to use something like the magnet kicker or the SG circuit, but instead use a trifiler coil? use two of the windings as a standard bifiler to run the motor, and use the third winding on the primary of the ignition coil as the trigger for turning it off and on?

I was planning on testing a trifilar JT/SEC combination type thing, and I'll try an SG at the same time since you mentioned it. I'll let you know how it goes shortly I haven't been able to do much with transformers on the output of the SG in the past though, it limits itself to the load/resistance of the coil so doesn't deliver enough power or whatever. That's what these videos were all about...

[Slider2732]

The tri-filar sounds cool...try it for sure
As long as the HV stays off the switching section you should be good to spin. Thinking about it, as long as you have whatever load it is you want to drive after the HV is generated, then the damage will be soaked by that section. If it isn't, then the section isn't translating the HV into the load, if you see what I mean.

[Neight]

I did a quick test with the SSG.
I couldn't get the coil I was using to self oscillate for some reason. I even used a 1M pot...
I was going to wind a bifiler coil anyway, so I might just wind some extra turns on it and see if I can't get that one to self oscillate.
I did hook the SSG output directly to the primary coil of the ignition box though. with the SSG running, it will light one leg of the neon on the secondary of the ignition coil, and that did absorb the load, because the neon on the SSG was not lighting
this is more or less what I was expecting the SSG output to do, and is likely the same result I would get if i used a trifiler coil as I described earlier.

I am in the process of hand twisting some 4 strand litz wire before I started on this project, perhaps I will finish twisting the wire and wind it on a coil, see if I can't do something with that as a trigger coil for the ignition coil.

who knows what will happen, but it's fun trying, and I am learning a lot.

I seem to have picked up a cold somewhere (not sure if you noticed all my sniffling in my last video ) and I am stuck in low gear today. it's a bit hard to concentrate when you can't breath right.
I might just take a day to rest and see if I don't feel better. do some reading and learn a few things today, and start with fresh eyes and good energy tomorrow.

I very very much appreciate all the help and suggestions I am getting! you guys are awesome, and I have learned a ton already! We will get this sucker figured out, and I hope to be able to do something interesting with this coil. It would be neat to get it to run a fluorescent light or something besides a neon. I am not sure what else to do with HF HV besides neons or fluorescent lights, but even if running a light or two is all this thing can do, that is still something that can be useful!

N8

[dR-Green]

What about using an LED triggered by the SG with a photoresistor to switch the secondary circuit.

Hope you feel better soon btw

[Neight]

What about using an LED triggered by the SG with a photoresistor to switch the secondary circuit.

Hope you feel better soon btw

lol, I actually had a similar idea yesterday
I picked up a infrared emitter and detector when I was @ radio shack. I was going to look into building a very fast blinking LED driver, and using the infrared LED emitter in a opaque box.
then putting the detector in the same box and hooking it up to a circuit that powers the primary of the ignition coil.
not even sure if it would work, or blink fast enough to work the primary coil, but it was an idea, and it sounded pretty fun to try.

biggest problem would be getting the LED emitter to blink fast enough to simulate the HF switching of the magnets passing over the reed switch. I am not even sure if the detector would pick up the blinking, or if it would see the emitter as always on if it were blinking too fast.

it's definitely worth a shot though, I just need to find a fast LED driver to try it out. seeing as how I could get good neon lighting @ only 1.5V and 88mA, I figure it wouldn't take much power to get good output with it, and not burn up the LED emitter and detector.

also, thank for the well wishing I hope I feel better too, like I said, I am going to try and take it easy today, and see if i can't start fresh tomorrow.

now you have me motivated to look up some LED drivers though

thanks again, all this collaboration is fun

N8

[Slider2732]

Being as LED's flash at light speed you should be ok lol. Well, my thinking is that the eye is fooled with running a Joule Thief above 26 flashes per second, into you thinking it's a solid light. The detector and LED won't have any such worries...would be fun to see how fast the things will work at together.
About the easiest way to implement that may be like a PC mouse..it's also the way many arcade driving games work. You have the LED always on and have a clear rotor. Thin strips of black (Sharpie even) are then spaced every few degrees around the rotor. With each gap in the black the signal is sent by the detector to switch the circuit. You'd line up the black and gaps the same as though a reed switch were at the places it would switch.

I know there are very common packages on circuit boards that i want to try for optical isolation in these circuits too. Sharp PC817 etc. Perhaps those would form part of a solution for burning out reed switches.

Here's another random thought. You could polish up a Model T coil box and showcase it as a historical item in a small cabinet. The trick, would be that illumination of the display cabinet would be from the Model T box itself !

[Neight]

Being as LED's flash at light speed you should be ok lol. Well, my thinking is that the eye is fooled with running a Joule Thief above 26 flashes per second, into you thinking it's a solid light. The detector and LED won't have any such worries...would be fun to see how fast the things will work at together.
About the easiest way to implement that may be like a PC mouse..it's also the way many arcade driving games work. You have the LED always on and have a clear rotor. Thin strips of black (Sharpie even) are then spaced every few degrees around the rotor. With each gap in the black the signal is sent by the detector to switch the circuit. You'd line up the black and gaps the same as though a reed switch were at the places it would switch.

I know there are very common packages on circuit boards that i want to try for optical isolation in these circuits too. Sharp PC817 etc. Perhaps those would form part of a solution for burning out reed switches.

Here's another random thought. You could polish up a Model T coil box and showcase it as a historical item in a small cabinet. The trick, would be that illumination of the display cabinet would be from the Model T box itself !

The more I think about this LED solution the more I like it. there are several ways this could be accomplished.
I really like your idea with the rotor and the light blocking strips as a trigger, that would be fairly easy to set up and test.
another way that has been rattling around my brain today is actually taking me right back to coil shorting
I could use the exact same coil shorting technique from my previous experiments to drive the LED emitter. that way, I wouldn't have to put any voltage into the emitter, that light would run for free. it would use the same reed switches, without the sticking problem I am having on a single circuit.
basically, use a coil and reed switch with an AC cap and FWBR to trigger the emitter LED. in my previous tests, it would blink very fast, much faster than the eye could see, but in the videos I made, you could tell it was flashing and not steady on.
put a black project box over my breadboard and keep the detector in there also. I could even have a regular LED outside the box on the same input as the emitter so I could tell for sure if the emitter was blinking.
have the detector wired up with a 3V supply to the primary. every time the emitter fires, the detector picks it up and completes the circuit, turning on and off the current at the same rate the reed switch is firing under the rotor.
I might just try this later tonight, as it would be easy to set up, and I should be able to tell pretty quick if it will work.

I think I remember reading somewhere that if you put an LED in backwards it works as a light detector, is this correct? it was a while ago, so I may be wrong, but if that is true, you could do this whole setup with plain old LEDs and theoretically it should work just the same
who knows, but it's definitely worth a shot
thanks for the ideas! if nothing else, this should be a fun experiment for the evening!

N8

PS. I really like your idea of a nice display case, powered by the coil itself! have all four of them in there, and wired up to fluorescent lights, and powered off a 9V battery if you want to get really fancy, you could have a small SSG in there charging up the 9V while it runs the circuit. if nothing else, this thing might end up being an excellent conversation piece (and a way to teach people some of the principals we are working with here) sitting in my workshop

[Neight]

just a quick update...
I am still sick, and will likely be laying down all day today. I haven't done much in the last 48 hours, but there is something pretty cool to report!

last night my father in law and brother in law came over, and I was showing them how this thing lights up a neon. my father in law mentioned how it would be cool to mix that orange light with a black light.

that made some bells ring in my head
I actually have a black light, so I went and got the bulb, and wired the secondary to the blacklight terminals. It lit it very brightly! not full brightness, but close.
after that I pulled one of the the circular fluorescent bulbs down from the ceiling and hooked it up, same result! not full brightness, but it lit up bright enough to see in the room with no other light source!

I did some testing with both the relay switch and the reed switch and this thing will light fluorescent bulbs with a reed switch all the way down to 3V intput! I couldn't run any tests @ 12V input, because it kept melting my potentiometers (bright flashes and lots of smoke coming from the pots )
anything between 3-9V though, and I got good solid light! of course the light was brighter at higher voltages, but it works!

I also tried wiring up two of these ignition coils. I wired the primary coils in series and each of the secondaries were separate. wired up that way, I was able to light a fluorescent up to good brightness and a second fluorescent up to very dim brightness. or I could light one fluorescent and the neon up at the same time with great results!

it was all pretty exciting to watch, and when I feel better I will post a video of this thing in action again!
I hope to get back to testing trigger methods soon, as I am now more excited than ever!
find the right solid state trigger method, and with a 9V battery, I very well could have portable fluorescent lighting in emergencies!
i also used a burned out fluorescent bulb and it light up a bit brighter than the good bulbs i was using! that means I might not even have to replace these fluorescents if I can find a way to make this work right!

the circular bulbs are 22W and the black light is 20W. I am very excited, and hope to get a video up maybe tomorrow, or tonight If I can get myself feeling better...

either way, just wanted to post some good results for a change, and I can't wait to get back to work on this! I am sure I will be thinking about it all day, so I may not be able to help myself than to try a few things to get better light

N8

edit: looks like that idea to have a self lighting display case is now very much attainable slider! thanks for the idea

[Neight]

Ok, I took some medicine to help clear my head up a little, and decided I couldn't wait to upload a video of this thing
It may not be a big deal, but this is the first time i have actually been able to light any significant bulb to any useful degree in any of my experiments. I am pretty happy with the results so far, and can't wait to develop this further
pretty simple video, and unfortunately no input/output number just yet, but I will get to that later, when I can concentrate.
lighting the bulb on 6V with the relay switch
then showing reed switch 3V-12V (which locks up the reed switch immediately )
finally I add in a clip showing the whole thing working off a standard 9V alkaline battery

This project is only getting more fun as I go along!
thanks for watching

N8

‪Model T powered flo lighting!‬‏ - YouTube

[Joit]

just a quick update...
I couldn't run any tests @ 12V input, because it kept melting my potentiometers (bright flashes and lots of smoke coming from the pots )

You should get a Variac or wire Potentiometer or something similar, you can get them for about 15$ more or less.
Or homebuild, may with a Toaster Wire?
Variac Page.

I managed too, to toast a few simple Potentiometer, because they are all only at 0,2 Watt rated, good for tune Sound on a Radio but thats it, HV creates very fast Sparks, what start to burn the Carbon there.

[Farmhand]

Hey Neight, Good stuff, Fluro lighted, way to go. I was thinking that a relay buzzer could work. How are you getting the relay to switch the coil ?

An imhotep radiant oscillator using a vibrating relay and the ignition coil will work.
‪**~Imhotep~**'s Free Energy Radiant Oscillator Lite‬‏ - YouTube

I can't find the circuit drawing at the moment I'm too busy, maybe someone else can find it. It should be in the video there I think.

It's seemed fairly reliable with the snubber to stop the relay contacts arcing. I think it may even be possible to use the unused contact as another vibrating switch. I think I will have a mess around with a relay tonight, I'll get my dual relay desufator out too and scope it, strangely enough that thought never occured to me I haven't used it since I got my scope. They are noisy though, I used to put mine in an old fridge batteries and all.

The relay charger and the oscillator lite are different things.

Cheers

[Neight]

Hey Neight, Good stuff, Fluro lighted, way to go. I was thinking that a relay buzzer could work. How are you getting the relay to switch the coil ?

An imhotep radiant oscillator using a vibrating relay and the ignition coil will work.
‪**~Imhotep~**'s Free Energy Radiant Oscillator Lite‬‏ - YouTube

I can't find the circuit drawing at the moment I'm too busy, maybe someone else can find it. It should be in the video there I think.

It's seemed fairly reliable with the snubber to stop the relay contacts arcing. I think it may even be possible to use the unused contact as another vibrating switch. I think I will have a mess around with a relay tonight, I'll get my dual relay desufator out too and scope it, strangely enough that thought never occured to me I haven't used it since I got my scope. They are noisy though, I used to put mine in an old fridge batteries and all.

The relay charger and the oscillator lite are different things.

Cheers

Thanks Farmhand!
I checked out that video, and while I don't quite understand the circuit diagram, I will figure it out watching the rest of the video!

you did make me think about something else I found in this house when I moved in! I have (somewhere, I have to remember where i put it exactly) a vibrator tube from the days of tube technology! not sure if that will do anything in this case, or even how to wire it to the circuit for that matter, but with a little research into the part number, I am sure I can figure it out.
I also have a few condensers here as well. there are several old radio tuners down here also, which I noticed you using in one video. will have to look more into that later

I honestly don't know why the relay is working?
I have power going to the coil in the relay, and the primary ignition coil is wired to the same power input, through the switch of the relay. when I hook it up, it just starts buzzing on it's own. every once in a while I have to flick it with my finger to get it started, but for the most part it works all on it's own...
I am thinking of using an AC cap on the secondary before the flo lights, to see if that has any effect.
lots of things to try, and I very much appreciate the suggestions!

I have no doubt that this coil can charge batteries, and probably desulfate them as well, depending on the output.

like a solid state charger, who knows, like I said, I have so much I want to try with these coils...

I will post more later, as I have new things to report!
thanks again

N8

[Farmhand]

Hi Neight, Sounded like you have a nasty flu in one of the video's, try cutting an onion in half or quarters and leave it somewhere near you or in you're top pocket the fumes should help, it does for me, it can't hurt anyway.

Off topic I know, sorry, but I know how annoying it is to be sick and deal with the symtoms. Hope you feel better soon.

Cheers

[Slider2732]

So many reasons for this emoticon -
A bad cold, sticking switches, unfamiliarity with components, dead tubes and yet there we are, light !
Very enjoyable video, worth a thumbs up for sure

When my neighbour threw out 4x 4ft fluoro's I just had to grab them and sure enough, they work great. I have no idea if they would work 'normally' but people don't normally throw things out if they work. Well, not around here anyway lol
The gas is still inside and that's my simple thinking as to why they run fine by other methods.

Your display case can be one end result and you'd still have a few boxes to do stuff with !

[Neight]

@ Farmhand thanks for the suggestion! very much appreciated, we didn't have any onions, but fortunately I seem to be clearing up. just getting some rest and drinking a lot of water is usually what I do. fortunately, I am very blessed with a strong immune system, I rarely get sick, and when I do it's not often that I need to take anything. I only took a single decongestant with this one, mostly so I could take that video (I was pretty excited to see those lights) feeling much better now though, and hope to be completely over it by tomorrow

@ slider thanks a ton for the encouraging words! It was pretty cool seeing those light up that bright. I have played with a few different circuits, and tried to get all kinds of bulbs to light up, but I am never making enough power, so to have that success was a great feeling!

I plan to work this out to where it runs on a small input battery (couple of AA's maybe) and is small enough to put inside a project box, and fix the light and an on switch outside it. these things are no where near full bright, but one of them could come in real handy in a dark power outage.
with the display and the emergency lights, I will still have one left in tact to experiment with

I am still planning on trying to carefully take the one I opened the rest of the way apart, and checking on exactly how it's made. trying to get a handle on number of turns in both secondaries, and on the primary. see what the condensers look like, and try and figure out their capacitance. see about learning how to make my own, so i can replicate it. (my guess is they are similar to other ignition coils though, so probably no real mystery here, just my lack of experience leading to a sense of awe )

I am looking through solid state or self oscillating switching methods that could safely drive this thing. I might have to work on my own method though, as the HV this thing puts out seems to be impervious to diodes, rectifiers and caps. it keeps killing my switches, even the relay sticks from time to time, and I have to flick it with my finger to get it back started...

still some bugs to be worked out, but I will get there, and I am sure to learn a lot in the process!

And I am getting to the point where I throw away next to nothing anymore. i am learning that so much can be used for so many different things. we really have been brainwashed into being a throw away culture. it's sad when I think of how many things I thought were broken and useless over my lifetime that I would love to have back now, if nothing else for components for other things. I have even thrown out my fair share of flo lights, and now could kick myself, using a burned out fluorescent is nearly free in my opinion. you get all out of it that it was manufactured to give, anything after that is more than what you pay for, you know...

either way, I am rambling, thank you both very much, and I hope to have more fun things to report on this as I learn more

N8