Joule Ringer!

[Farmhand]

This video of "Woopyjump's" shows a Fence wire Bi-Toroid Transformer lighting 2 bulbs, one off each one of the secondaries, powered by a Variac. The core wound from one single strand of the thinnest insulated store bought fence wire. The outer circle thicker then the center H. Woopyjump's confined to the frequency of the grid Hertz. Woopyjump powers two 200 milliamp 3.5 volt bulbs to near full brightness, for just one tiny milliamp!

Thane Heins powers his BITT at a higher frequency. The flip flop inverter can deliver that Hertz better then Woopyjump's variac. Coupled with the PWM, we can enjoy all the control features of a costly signal generator for a tiny fraction of the cost.

Replacing the 12 to 120 volt transformer with a two secondary fence wire BITT, wraped to deliver 120 volts off each secondary, should illuminate two 120 volt A.C. bulbs for close to nothing


bitt power factor 3 .wmv - YouTube

Hi Allan, If I am seeing things right in that video, Woopy is using 71 Ma at 100 volts to power the variac,
that's 7.1 watts, the bulbs are rated at 3.5 volts @ 200 Ma which is 0.7 watts each or 1.4 watts for two.

The increase of 1 Ma at 100 volts is an increase of only 0.1 watt yes but he
is using 7.1 watts to power 1.4 watts of light bulbs which would be 19%
efficiency compared to normal. If connected to a 3.5 volt DC source the bulbs
should use 0.7 watts each as a baseline for the rated power it takes to light
the bulbs.

Thane gets a similar result except his power input goes down a bit rather than
up, but the full picture is not given by Thane all the power used to show the
effect is not considered, only a part of the system is measured.


Cheers

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi guruji, I'm not sure what you mean by self charger.
The circuit i posted is just for dumping a capacitor that is charged by other means, like a joule ringer flyback.

I was testing something minoly showed in one of his videos, where he back charged his 6 volt input battery by placing another one in series with it.
So I did the same thing with my 12 volt batteries and used a joule thief ringer flyback and placed the diode output across the series input batteries, though only one of the 12 volt batteries actually powers the oscillator.
It seems to charge the other passive 12 volt fairly well.
I'm using schotky diodes for the flyback.
peace love light
tyson

[Dave45]

This video of "Woopyjump's" shows a Fence wire Bi-Toroid Transformer lighting 2 bulbs, one off each one of the secondaries, powered by a Variac. The core wound from one single strand of the thinnest insulated store bought fence wire. The outer circle thicker then the center H. Woopyjump's confined to the frequency of the grid Hertz. Woopyjump powers two 200 milliamp 3.5 volt bulbs to near full brightness, for just one tiny milliamp!

Thane Heins powers his BITT at a higher frequency. The flip flop inverter can deliver that Hertz better then Woopyjump's variac. Coupled with the PWM, we can enjoy all the control features of a costly signal generator for a tiny fraction of the cost.

Replacing the 12 to 120 volt transformer with a two secondary fence wire BITT, wraped to deliver 120 volts off each secondary, should illuminate two 120 volt A.C. bulbs for close to nothing


bitt power factor 3 .wmv - YouTube

Take the two secondary's that are already there wire them together as in the pmh then wind two more secondary's on top of the one's you shorted or better yet short the coils with a cap, will allow more tuning

[kcarring]

@Allen

Are you suggesting that using a fencewire core this could be done?
I'm a bit confused with the Thane Heins based methods, because in most cases a see a prime mover, be that a motor or a transformer, which apparently has a fairly (larger) current draw/power requirement, and the secondaries, when added, do not seem to load it down, rather it's own draw decreases, suggesting that the high impedence coil, the secondary, is providing its' load with power, at no real cost. But, if the whole apparatus draws substantially more current than would required to just power the secondary load, on it's own, conventionally, where are the savings? When he talks about his technology being used in a regenerative acceleration situation, I am lead to believe he means, if you are going to be powering a current-hungry motor in the first place, to accelerate a EV, why not be charging the batteries simultaneously for free? Is this correct? If so, in a lighting situation, is it similar, i.e. sure, those 3V lamps seemingly are drawing very little current, but what about the Variac, what is it drawing? Would we not need to have a high speed "fan" or something, that provided additional light (for allegedly free...). Set me straight if I am confused! Thanks

[Allen Burgess]

BITT Transformer.

This video of "Woopyjump's" shows a Fence wire Bi-Toroid Transformer lighting 2 bulbs, one off each one of the secondaries, powered by a Variac. The core wound from one single strand of the thinnest insulated store bought fence wire. The outer circle thicker then the center H. Woopyjump's confined to the frequency of the grid Hertz. Woopyjump powers two 200 milliamp 3.5 volt bulbs to near full brightness, for just one tiny milliamp!

Thane Heins powers his BITT at a higher frequency. The flip flop inverter can deliver that Hertz better then Woopyjump's variac. Coupled with the PWM, we can enjoy all the control features of a costly signal generator for a tiny fraction of the cost.

Replacing the 12 to 120 volt transformer with a two secondary fence wire BITT, wraped to deliver 120 volts off each secondary, should illuminate two 120 volt A.C. bulbs for close to nothing


bitt power factor 3 .wmv - YouTube

[Guruji]

self charger?

hi folks, for anyone interested, I tested that car bulb flasher circuit just now with a 1.5 farad car audio capacitor.
The cap. climbs to around 18 volts and discharges down and back up around that similar voltage, though I placed a car bulb in series with charge battery to limit current and it pulses nicely, raising the charge battery voltage fairly quickly.
And I am charging the cap. with the 5 strand air coil joule ringer with cap and diode mod.
peace love light
tyson

Hi Skywatcher are you saying that this circuit is a selfcharger?
If yes I will try this.
Thanks

[totoalas]

Another way to boost output of joule ringer

This is the circuit from Bright hub fly swatter
If we can tweak this thing @ 3vdc will be great
Remove the original transformer and replaced with 30 w 12 0 12 / 220 v ac transformer / and remove the cap and replaced with load ex led lamps


cheers

totoalas

http://images.brighthub.com/c1/6/c1636f9f69fba34e0c296622e64b0f9d6dda1ac2_large.jpg

[ibpointless2]

I don't know if this has been mention before but I noticed that some are trying to light CFL bulbs using inverters and trying to get the most light for little energy. If you take a magnet and place it at the right spot on a CFL bulb base you can slightly increase the brightness of the bulb. Its a small increase but its noticeable.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi kcarring, it's just the typical single diode positive collapsing field from transistor collector of joule ringer and negative from positive leg.
If that does not help, I'll draw it.
peace love light
tyson

[kcarring]

@skywatcher

If you have a moment could u do up a diagram on how that circuit fits to the said 5 strand air core joule thief/ringer? I'm having a hard time picturing that.

[SkyWatcher]

hi folks, for anyone interested, I tested that car bulb flasher circuit just now with a 1.5 farad car audio capacitor.
The cap. climbs to around 18 volts and discharges down and back up around that similar voltage, though I placed a car bulb in series with charge battery to limit current and it pulses nicely, raising the charge battery voltage fairly quickly.
And I am charging the cap. with the 5 strand air coil joule ringer with cap and diode mod.
peace love light
tyson

[kcarring]

@Kcarring,

Zebok3, my Youtube handle, shows that 12 parallel 120 volt LED bulbs reduce source battery voltage with merely a minor increase in amp draw, over a single bulb, with the Flip Flop Inverter. My guess is a scope shot would show a phase shift between voltage and current that would help explain this anomaly. The Vellaman PWM has three pots: One to regulate voltage, the second frequency and the third, pulse width.

The Vellaman Flip Flop circuit, a seperate package, has two pots in place of the high value resistors to regulate the A.C. Hz. You may have noticed, as I did, that one side of the Inverter circuit's mosfets grows hotter then the other. Low resistor tolerance causes one side to run hotter then the other, even though the resistors share an equal rating; Hence the need for variables to achieve precise balance. I believe also, that the D.C. input frequency should match the A.C. output frequency, and that any change of voltage or pulse width alters the frequency; So, narrowing pulse width to conserve power requires a correction of the other values. Your 555 PWM is controlled by one pot, whereas the combination of the two Vellaman's gives us a grand total of FIVE! An oscillascope would help to tune that 5 pot combination light circuit to peak efficency. I built and tested the two circuits, but I'm on holiday in Costa Rica right now, and have to wait to finish my testing. I think you're on the right track, but your setup is kind of crude compared to the Vellaman PWM with it's 16 pin timer and 3 control pots. Source voltage has to be measured to calculate overall power consumption, along with amp draw.

Maybe you should send away for one. This circuit should permit us to tune current and voltage to optimum power phase. Mine was a snap to assemble and solder up, and worked flawlessly. That circuit will really put you in the driver's seat. These upgrades should turn "Whimpy" into a "Whopper"! I enjoyed your videos, thanks.

Thanks Allen, just trying to digest that all.. i will do a search on Velleman Flip Flop circuit. I did notice, as you say, before the PWM was connected, the heat distribution on the Flip Flop was uneven, but, given my setup (as it was before) I could only run the thing for about 30 seconds or so before my rheostat (3 watts) began to cook. Without the rheostat it was absolutely ridiculous it would draw 2 or 3 amps into the circuit and literally fry (3) 2 watt bulbs in no time, I'm sure... I have noticed no heat in the setup I have now... so it's fairly impossible to determine the unbalanced resistor effect,a s such.. there's nothing there to compare - you'd need a digital laser thermometer or something.. I suppose... but any modifications to the basic circuit that ultimately make it better, are certainly encouraged! When I measure the AC across the secondary, it is VERY low, like around 40 volts. However, I don't know if that means anything because the wave is not sinusoidal, nor its it necessary 50-60 HZ... I will begin to examine stuff more with my new scope, but I am learning the scope itself on 100% safe circuits... I'm very apprehensive to use the thing anywhere I know inductive spikes are present simply because my ignorance/caution/beginner status.

Cheers and Thanks for your input!

[SkyWatcher]

Car Bulb Modified Capacitor Dump

Hi folks, I tested this circuit and it works well. It is a car bulb flasher circuit and I modified it to dump a capacitor charger.
The dump capacitor being charged from the flyback of a joule ringer.
I used a 24 volt battery to test with a car bulb in between the 24volt and 12 volt charge battery and get solid periodic pulses.
And the dump capacitor replaces the 24 volt battery.
Here is the circuit. Let me know what you folks think.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

peace love light
tyson

[Allen Burgess]

Flip Flop Inverter.

@Kcarring,

Zebok3, my Youtube handle, shows that 12 parallel 120 volt LED bulbs reduce source battery voltage with merely a minor increase in amp draw, over a single bulb, with the Flip Flop Inverter. My guess is a scope shot would show a phase shift between voltage and current that would help explain this anomaly. The Vellaman PWM has three pots: One to regulate voltage, the second frequency and the third, pulse width.

The Vellaman Flip Flop circuit, a seperate package, has two pots in place of the high value resistors to regulate the A.C. Hz. You may have noticed, as I did, that one side of the Inverter circuit's mosfets grows hotter then the other. Low resistor tolerance causes one side to run hotter then the other, even though the resistors share an equal rating; Hence the need for variables to achieve precise balance. I believe also, that the D.C. input frequency should match the A.C. output frequency, and that any change of voltage or pulse width alters the frequency; So, narrowing pulse width to conserve power requires a correction of the other values. Your 555 PWM is controlled by one pot, whereas the combination of the two Vellaman's gives us a grand total of FIVE! An oscillascope would help to tune that 5 pot combination light circuit to peak efficency. I built and tested the two circuits, but I'm on holiday in Costa Rica right now, and have to wait to finish my testing. I think you're on the right track, but your setup is kind of crude compared to the Vellaman PWM with it's 16 pin timer and 3 control pots. Source voltage has to be measured to calculate overall power consumption, along with amp draw.

Maybe you should send away for one. This circuit should permit us to tune current and voltage to optimum power phase. Mine was a snap to assemble and solder up, and worked flawlessly. That circuit will really put you in the driver's seat. These upgrades should turn "Whimpy" into a "Whopper"! I enjoyed your videos, thanks.

[kcarring]

Like your Build and hope to try this in the near future....Haven't posted in a while but watched your youtube video and was impressed with the circuit you came up with .Happy up coming new year to all....Tec

Great! i'm sure many improvements / modifications can arise from this. i call it "Wimpy" for a reason, so it's not ideal for every situation, but in my case, it's serving well. There is no solar potential near the chicken coop, no power... so it's haul batteries, run long DC lines... or this...

I wonder if we can redirect the spikes back into the output? Anyone? I've not yet tried, and i get confused when it comes to diode configurations for moving spikes, BEMF, etc. where u want it...

In comparison to XEE2's Joule Thief.. I think that this may be actually "less" efficient, however it seems to supply more current as in my case; several bulbs in parallel. The flip flop is a rather crude, high output "kick ass" circuit... and it acts more like a conventional inverter; however without post inverter feedback, voltage regulation... it's a bit nasty too! This helps. For low output anyway. Whether or not the diode on the PWM need be an ultrafast high voltage diode, or not.. I'm not sure. I had a few and thought why not, seemed to be a point of vulnerability for the lifespan of the 555. I'm not sure what the voltage drop on it is, probably .7V - so that in itself will suppress the gate a bit more, too. The source of the PWM FET is straight up -12V, so the voltage drop shouldn't effect the flip-flop negatively. It may be that you can do the entire flip using BJT's but you'll definitely need a MOSFET on that PWM, I'd think.

Fuse protection is an absolute must in this circuit, because, for example if for some reason the output diode on the PWM fails, it will go into absolute current overload and start on fire LOL. So yeah, I learned that when i had forgotten to put that component in... a break in the circuit, at that point, is fatal, so do add a 1 or 2 amp fuse before using it, absolutely!