Joule Ringer!

[totoalas]

Totoalas:
Yes, I've made several different Exciter set ups, all using earth ground. No big light there, at least for not for me. And using higher voltages also fries the transistors.
It was using 24v that fried my two transistors, and also burnt out my 7watt incandescent bulb. All are easy to replace. Now I'm trying the EN13007 transistor out of a Cfl's internal circuit, with good results, no heat on Led bulbs.
I also have my LS 3.0 versions connected to an earth ground, at the negative side of the load, but not a big difference there either, just a slight improvement in brightness.
I would really like to see a device that can run on NO external man made input, but for now solar seam to see the easiest way to have some input that is really free energy. If you can afford it...
A much bigger version of these 3.0 circuits would be great, one that can really light ones house. Possibly using like 100 watt input from solar, and getting 1000watt or higher output, or at least an equivalent light intensity.
As solar is still very expensive for what you get. The governments and power companies made sure of that.

Thanks for the test results nickz
In Slayer we dont use spark gaps on our primary......
I tried to use an ordinary connector with two thin wires parallel with caps
and produced a lot of sparks on my coil

one side will fully light my fluoro lamp and the spark charges the negative pole of my 7 ah battery from 12.5 to 13.5 in a short time.
thats my first and last test as I fried the circuit lol
HV NEGATIVE DC CHARGER 200113 - YouTube
totoalas

[Nick_Z]

Totoalas:
Yes, I've made several different Exciter set ups, all using earth ground. No big light there, at least for not for me. And using higher voltages also fries the transistors.
It was using 24v that fried my two transistors, and also burnt out my 7watt incandescent bulb. All are easy to replace. Now I'm trying the EN13007 transistor out of a Cfl's internal circuit, with good results, no heat on Led bulbs.
I also have my LS 3.0 versions connected to an earth ground, at the negative side of the load, but not a big difference there either, just a slight improvement in brightness.
I would really like to see a device that can run on NO external man made input, but for now solar seam to see the easiest way to have some input that is really free energy. If you can afford it...
A much bigger version of these 3.0 circuits would be great, one that can really light ones house. Possibly using like 100 watt input from solar, and getting 1000watt or higher output, or at least an equivalent light intensity.
As solar is still very expensive for what you get. The governments and power companies made sure of that.

[totoalas]

an off topic but related to Vtech circuit

Carmenbees Synchrotheraphy

Hope this is also related to your tech and can be combined for internal/ external application

totoalas

[totoalas]

I've managed to somehow burn out two power transistors while using 24v (two 12v batteries in series). I was trying to obtain full output from my inverters, which are the LS 3.0 4 ferrite bead rod, or with the yoke core circuit. I don't know why the transistors burned out, but they did.
So, I really have not been able to test the higher voltages to obtain the higher Cfl bulb brightness to my satisfaction.
The inverters will light a 7 watt night light incandescent bulb with very little to no heating, but when using higher wattage bulbs there is always heat on the transistors, or ringing on the cores. Led bulbs are still heating the transistors, but to a much less degree.
At this point I'm ready to try the commercial car inverters, as I've been at this for a while now, to no real avail. Some car inverters only hog up 0.120 amps at idle. So, that is not much to lose.
I noticed that most of the higher output car inverters have cooling fans incorporated inside. That is what is needed in my 3.0 versions, in order to be able to use the circuits for long periods of time. That may be one of the reasons why some car inverters draw 0.250 amps, which is still reasonable for a 200 to 400 watt output.
My solar cells are on their way, for my homemade panel. But, will take a couple more weeks before they are brought to me here, from the U.S.

Not much going on in these forums lately... is everyone asleep?

Hi Nickz
Have you tried a Slayer with the secondary coil connected to earth ground ( not mains ground) and not to the base of transistor

I thick there s a great potential in harnessing the hv to light up cfls and negative pole of sla batteries

happy experimenting

totoalas

[Nick_Z]

I've managed to somehow burn out two power transistors while using 24v (two 12v batteries in series). I was trying to obtain full output from my inverters, which are the LS 3.0 4 ferrite bead rod, or with the yoke core circuit. I don't know why the transistors burned out, but they did.
So, I really have not been able to test the higher voltages to obtain the higher Cfl bulb brightness to my satisfaction.
The inverters will light a 7 watt night light incandescent bulb with very little to no heating, but when using higher wattage bulbs there is always heat on the transistors, or ringing on the cores. Led bulbs are still heating the transistors, but to a much less degree.
At this point I'm ready to try the commercial car inverters, as I've been at this for a while now, to no real avail. Some car inverters only hog up 0.120 amps at idle. So, that is not much to lose.
I noticed that most of the higher output car inverters have cooling fans incorporated inside. That is what is needed in my 3.0 versions, in order to be able to use the circuits for long periods of time. That may be one of the reasons why some car inverters draw 0.250 amps, which is still reasonable for a 200 to 400 watt output.
My solar cells are on their way, for my homemade panel. But, will take a couple more weeks before they are brought to me here, from the U.S.

Not much going on in these forums lately... is everyone asleep?

[blackchisel97]

Hi guys. This isn't exactly related to the recent posts but I hope it may be useful for someone. While ago I tried simple oscillator idea to power Cree LED. I don't remember who came up with this design (Lidmotor?) but it worked pretty well. I tried different transformers and best results were with large ferrite toroid which actually fried one channel of my scope.
I've been working lately on electronic healing devices Positive effects of negative ions - Page 3and want it to try different approach to get a source of negative ions. I decided to use this circuit with Cockroft Walton multiplier and the results are satisfactory. The best are small ferrite transformers since their ability to work quiet with higher frequency. I'm getting anywhere from 3,000 - 10,000 output (depending on transformer).
I thought to share.


Vtech

[jonnydavro]

Hi Billxx.You really have developed your circuit,this is far in advance than what I did .I think you are right to try different transformers.I think you will get even better light output with larger transformers ,maybe worth trying a flyback transformer as well.
Thanks for updating us on your progress.Jonny

[Billxx]

Update to My Replication of jonnydavro's buzzer inverter JR variant with PWM Mod...

@jonnydavro

Jonny, I combined your circuit and LaserSaber's SJR3 circuit. I'm having real good success with this circuit, it slows down battery drain and the bulb brightness is more intense with this circuit.

Here is the updated circuit schematic diagram...



This really a fun circuit to develop. I'll be looking at another transistor/transformer arrangement now because I think the Fuji transformer is the limiting factor in the circuit.

Billxx

[Billxx]

I look forward to seeing more on your setup. I was working last night with a different sort of bi-toroid dual bifilar setup running from a 555 based square wave gen I built just for this. So far it's lighting LED's but no OU yet. I'm trying to find a way to recharge the 9 volt supply battery from this setup. I also had a gutted CFL running from this coil setup and 120 volt LED at the same time but power was from a 12 volt Nicad pack for that. I'm always looking for ways to keep the battery up or increase in voltage so it sounds like you're onto something really good there.

@ewizard,

As jonnydavro pointed out, the CFL is real power hungry so after I find a better suited transformer I'm going to revisit driving a CFL bulb with the modified circuit, but, for now, I'm focusing on getting a circuit to over drive an LED bulb.

Kudos to Jonny for his success in over driving the 2w bulb with the Piezo buzzer/potentiometer arrangement, I chose the 4w bulb to give the circuit a new target.

I'm using the 555 CMOS chip so I can power the circuit with voltages down to 2.4v to be able to use rechargeable 1.2v cells. It would be cool to power a bulb at night and then maybe recharge the batteries with like a couple small 3" solar panels during the daytime.

I'm not entirely sure if it would work in charging a battery, but, I was able to set other voltages within the circuit using a Zener diode/resistor. It might work...

Anyway, this circuit is fun in developing it and to over drive a larger, more usable, bulb may be quite a challenge, no doubt.

If and when there's any appreciable advancement I'll post an update.

Happy New Year!

Billxx

[Billxx]

Replication of jonnydavro's buzzer inverter JR variant with PWM Mod...

@jonnydavro,

Jonny, I'm posting a couple pictures of the BreadBoard assembly and schematic diagram of the circuit with the PWM Mod.

Here's a link where I got the PWM circuit from...

Pulse Width Modulation

With this circuit I'll move on to look for a better suited transformer to drive the bulb so the PWM becomes a more effective component of the circuit.

I hope it'll be OK to post this info at LaserSaber's forum. The circuit reconfig is actually the SJR3 with the PWM circuit added.







Kudos to you, Jonny, for the concept of using the Piezo buzzer/PWM in the circuit to improve the efficiency and performance.

Thanks again for sharing this concept.

Happy New Year!

Billxx

[Billxx]

@Billxx.Looking forward to seeing your results,they sound really promising
Please also try led bulbs with your setup and possibly post a circuit diagram.Cheers.Jonny.

@jonnydavro,

Jonny, I'm having great success with the PWM circuit except the fuji transformer must be limiting how bright the bulb will go and since the battery pack is limited to 595mah this must also be a factor.

I bought a 4w 250 lumen LED and it'll get to about 60% brightness at 3volts, 350ma and somewhere around 80% at 9v, 650ma. (No heat in the circuit )

I changed the connection of the bulb from the POS (+) rail to the transistor collector and that made everything work a whole lot better with the PWM circuit. This PWM circuit is a lot of fun and I can even tweak the circuit just by moving the magnet on top of the transformer, for that matter, the PWM will only work with the magnet on top of the transformer.

For simplicity, your Piezo buzzer and potentiometer arrangement is the easiest way to go.

My next step is to find another transformer/transistor match that could possibly fully light these bulbs.

Anyway, Happy Holidays!

Billxx

ps. Jonny, I'll post a circuit diagram in a new post as soon as I can.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi totoalas, yes, each particular gutted cfl type in question, needs a particular voltage, current and frequency for a nice light quality, output and efficiency.
Realized this on the flyback cores, had way too many secondary turns and the bulb was hardly lit at all, brought the turns down from over a 1000 to aorund 600 and it works great.
Probably could remove another layer for around 400 or so turns and it will match the primary much better for efficiency and there will be very little stray voltage and the meters will read properly and not bounce all over or go off the scale.
Great wisdom in this video clip.
Scene from The Little Prince - YouTube



Uploaded with ImageShack.us
tyson

[totoalas]

Hi Skywatcher
thanks for sharing your results
so multiple secondary with a single primary can do the trick
I am still working on my half JT and half slayer circuit on an E core transformer ... still no success

Just replicated lynx RF diode Charger ( AC Neutral RF Charger 231212 - Youtube Imtotob ) and seems to have fast charging effect using Neutral AC with body ground shorting the output .......
A 4th generation 3 w led 220 v ac will flash on the Neutral / earth ground

The RF diode charger has the same result with ac being converted to dc
and will light a 7 meters 12 v led strips for a second with 60 v dc

if we can amplify tweak the circuit to use supercaps then
we can have full use of the neutral in our house......

Merry Xmas
Update
AC Neutral RF Charger Load 271212 - YouTube
totoalas

[Billxx]

@Billxx.Looking forward to seeing your results,they sound really promising
Please also try led bulbs with your setup and possibly post a circuit diagram.Cheers.Jonny.

@jonnydavro,

Well, while able to increase the battery pack size (up to 16.5v), the power required to light the gutted CFL (to full brightness) is outside of the ability of the battery pack using std 1.5v, 595mah cells. Because the circuit was responding so well at 3v I really thought we'd get better results, sorry. I used different configurations including maintaining the PWM circuit voltage at 3v but to no avail. I even tried using an external PWM circuit with it's own power (1.5v), but, that didn't work either. A real big issue is heat in the battery pack.

Jonny, this isn't a failure by any means, at 12v, 700ma, the 18W CFL, while not at full brightness, lit up a 15ft x 15ft room very well, but, the power demand exceeds the battery pack and will only do that for a while and then starts dropping, afterall, the battery pack is only 595mah. There's very very little heat in the circuit, but, what is alarming is the heat from the battery pack. (Note: the battery of the external PWM was dangerously hot when I tried that approach)

For now, I'm going to abandon the CFL circuit and look at an LED circuit. Considering your success with the potentiometer-buzzer arrangement, I should have better success with an LED.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi again totoalas, was making a few tests here with a couple gutted cfls in series, that are somewhat similar 13 watts bulbs.
We can go up in input voltage to do the job, as 24 volts lights both very bright or we can use the same 12 volts or so and try multiple secondary windings.
Then each winding can go to a cfl, wherever it is needed in ones house and since it is high voltage AC, there is little loss with longer distance wires.
Tested a 4 ferrite bead with one layer of 30awg. secondary-320 turns and a 66 bifilar turns 24awg. primary on top.
It ignites the 13 watt just fine and that is a 10:1 ratio of winding turns.
So, that means, we can make at least 4 layers of individual secondary windings to power multiple, separated bulbs.
Going to first try it with this ferrite bead core, since it does work, will add another individual secondary coil on top of first one to power 2 separate bulbs and see how that goes, if it goes well, will try it with the ferrite TV yoke next.
Of course we can always use a thicker primary gauge wire, if extra amperage is needed for brightness, will try the primary bifilar 24awg. magnet wire for now.
peace love light
tyson