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Joule Ringer!

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  • Jbignes5
    replied
    @dragon

    I went out searching for a low wattage fl and found a 1.5 watt fl tube and was a night light. It only cost me 9.99 at RiteAid. A pretty good deal. It was in the hardware section and is a direct plugin to the socket type. The bulb is only 2-3 inches long but it has 3 wires out of each end. Figuring this out will be pretty hard but it is only 1.5 watts.

    I am glad that Fusionchip is still going even after such heart breaking news about the cancer. Always focus yourself and stay on the course. It is when we let ourselves go down to the lower depths of life that we loose all hope. Hope and happiness is the key to health. Never give up and you will know in the end that you gave it your all. I hope you have a good long life friend and know that you will be in all our payers and hearts!

    Leave a comment:


  • seth
    replied
    Originally posted by dragon View Post
    Lasersaber has the winning combination, trying to match what he has is going to be challenging.
    Thanks for the details dragon. You've done great work here.

    Sounds like the gauntlet is laid down........who is ready to pick it up?

    Good luck everyone.

    Leave a comment:


  • fusionchip
    replied
    Hi Lightsaber ,
    Isn't it strange that after all these years and especially this past year when i got cancer that you inspired me to stop feeling sorry for myself and experiment with your cause. Thank you becuase i would normally be in bed . I know it's hard to go thru daily life because on top of me being a single dad of a 9 year old gal and maintaing a new house all by myself i got sick and that crushed me into hopelessness.ANd i have to learn 3rd grade math all over at 54 yrs old They are teaching Einstein field equations for Christ sake in 3'rd grade . Christmas is a good time for me to remember . So i am glad you remember me and i won't give up because you have a very gifted hand and if i had a small part in it then i am happy for you man .I Like your projects more than i have seen next to lidmotors you guys are in the groove I still have My Cubee-e- light and it is still running in My daughters bathroom after almost 2 years now . the thing feeds back to the run battery (Ni-mh) and its the only one i didnt draw out the schematic Its built with super fine # 36 wire and has two coils in it and some of these germanium diodes and a special transistor . I tried taking it apart to trace out and some of the wires snapped . I managed to get them back together and laid it in Clear Cast to never move again so i know feedback to source is real and takes the right combination of coils . You hit it right on recirculating the charge and its so close to perpetula Light . We will get it .
    God bless you and yours

    Albert
    Last edited by fusionchip; 01-05-2011, 08:11 PM.

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  • dragon
    replied
    Originally posted by LaserSaber View Post
    @xee2



    I will try and check it soon. I am sorry that I have not been able to help on here more. My vacation time is over and I am back at work now. I will still try to help as I am able.

    @seth


    I thought Dragon said he had his running for over 15 minutes.

    @fusionchip
    You were one of the ones who inspired me to really start working in this field. Thanks for all your hard work and help. I am sure that you will get it working soon. I got my Fuji cameras at WalMart. I am looking for a better source as well. I have ordered some of the camera assemblies from Electronic Goldmine. I will let you know if they work.
    I wasn't able to get a CFL to light for more than a couple minutes, the only ones I have on hand are a 13 and 23 watt. The one that will run for 15 minutes uses a standard 4 watt FL tube. The 8 watt tube worked as well but wasn't very bright and would only make 4 minute runs.

    I was looking around trying to find some tubes that require less voltage and current to operate. There are some very low wattage CFL's ( 2 and 3 watt ) but they use the CCFL technology which I believe needs around 1800 volts to operate, they only draw 3ma. Digikey has a very small one that requires 1.5 ma but was expensive. Seems like we may need to find something in the 130-300 volt range with very low current requirements.

    Refining the overall usage (lowering input requirement ) and some enhanced electrical recovery system would be the key to longivity. Lasersaber has the winning combination, trying to match what he has is going to be challenging.

    I wish I had more time to play with it but other projects need to be completed first, although, I may find some free moments to tinker with variations... fun stuff
    ________
    Ferrari 166 History
    Last edited by dragon; 05-11-2011, 11:13 AM.

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  • seth
    replied
    Originally posted by LaserSaber View Post
    @xee2



    @seth


    I thought Dragon said he had his running for over 15 minutes.

    .
    Hooray!

    Sorry, i missed that post!

    Well done Dragon!

    PS.. 2 kids and full time job and a third on the way - you do pretty well at your ''hobby'' all things considered
    Last edited by seth; 01-05-2011, 07:44 PM.

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  • LaserSaber
    replied
    I decided to put the project to away for the evening and spend time with her
    .

    That is one of the best posts I have seen in years. I find with two kids and another on the way plus a full time job it is not easy to find time for this hobby. We have to put family first and then somehow fit this hobby in during that free time that most people spend watching TV. I am very blessed because on many occasions my wife enjoys getting right in on the experimenting as well. Without her help and encouragement I would not have gotten some my projects working.

    Leave a comment:


  • Lidmotor
    replied
    Slow progress

    @All
    This is a slow project to get working right. It looked really simple, quick and easy but it isn't. Like Seth mentioned----the holidays and normal life are part of the problem. Last night, as I sat on the couch with a magnifing glass trying to figure out the circuit on a disposable camera, my wife turned to me and asked me--- "What are you doing?" When I tried to explain it to her she simple looked at me with a blank stare and went back to what she was doing. I decided to put the project to away for the evening and spend time with her.

    @Bolt1
    Your description of what is happening in this circuit makes the most sense to me right now. Maybe using a regular toroid JT circuit might be a better way to explore it.


    Lidmotor

    Leave a comment:


  • LaserSaber
    replied
    @xee2

    Does this match what you built? Please check to see if there is about 200 ohms between pins 3 and 6 on your transformer and that pin one does not connect to any other pins.
    I will try and check it soon. I am sorry that I have not been able to help on here more. My vacation time is over and I am back at work now. I will still try to help as I am able.

    @seth
    Anyone got a CFL to last a minute yet? (other than laser)
    I thought Dragon said he had his running for over 15 minutes.

    @fusionchip
    You were one of the ones who inspired me to really start working in this field. Thanks for all your hard work and help. I am sure that you will get it working soon. I got my Fuji cameras at WalMart. I am looking for a better source as well. I have ordered some of the camera assemblies from Electronic Goldmine. I will let you know if they work.

    Leave a comment:


  • xee2
    replied
    @ LaserSaber

    Does this match what you built? Please check to see if there is about 200 ohms between pins 3 and 6 on your transformer and that pin one does not connect to any other pins.

    Leave a comment:


  • seth
    replied
    OK - Ive got a neon to quickly flash now for 15 mins with no battery. But the flash is pretty pathetic. And i can do it with or without the bifilar coil (but bifilar lasts longer). Im using a flyback and i think the cap in the flyback is bleeding off charge as well as the cap i use to power it (35V 10000micF). I'll make a vid if anyone is interested, but its not really the same effect (it seems to me anyhow).

    Anyone got a CFL to last a minute yet? (other than laser)
    Last edited by seth; 01-05-2011, 03:01 PM.

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  • Mark
    replied
    When I was playing with the Fugi circuits I got mine for free. I just went to Walgreens or anywhere they develop film and asked if I could have a couple of the old disposable camera's. They just throw them into a big barrel to recycle. I grabbed out a half dozen for the circuits and the batteries in them were also good!

    Mark

    Leave a comment:


  • fusionchip
    replied
    Originally posted by kooler View Post
    i still have had no luck at it with 4 different transformers from fuji cameras and one kodak..
    maybe i need to stop buying my stuff from the dollar general store..
    hell with it..

    robbie
    Bet we could get this to work with a MOT and HV cap

    @all you can make another transformer that oscillates with the trigger coil by wrapping 8 turns around it and connecting them to the two unused pins on the bottom . Pictured is just that with a 2n2222a . more later ..

    Albert
    Attached Files
    Last edited by fusionchip; 01-05-2011, 12:13 PM. Reason: edit

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  • SkyWatcher
    replied
    Hi folks, now were talking. I am now seeing the lasersaber 'joule ringer effect'.
    Instead of a fluorescent for now, i decided to hook up a string of 20 leds and with a 6800uf 25volt electrolytic and charging cap with 6 volt battery, the cap lights the leds fairly bright then tapers off for about 2 minutes, then flashes rapidly for another 3 or so minutes. I used a high voltage diode i had from one of those information unlimited high voltage kits and i put a 1 megohm resistor in parallel with that and a nonpolar cap in parallel also. Much more tweaking to do i can see. Though i'm happy that I'm getting results.
    peace love light
    Tyson
    edit: yes your right seth, forgive me if i sounded ungrateful. I'm happy with anything shared, thanks laser and all.

    Leave a comment:


  • seth
    replied
    Originally posted by SkyWatcher View Post

    Well im surprised anyone here has achieved results at all, lasersaber has not bothered to clarify his circuit, nor has he mentioned exact resistances of his separate bifilar coil or wire gauges. That's fine if that's how he wishes to share. As for me, I would be sharing every last detail I could. Oh well, I'll still try and figure this out.

    I think we should remember that

    a) The holiday season (where folks have many obligations and duties) has only just finished
    b) Lasersaber made a many part series ''how to build a Stubblefield coil'', at least an hour long, giving the most detailed description of how to replicate his Stubblefield coil rep.

    Clearly Lasersaber is more than happy to share, and extremely helpful should you wish you replicate his work. Lets give the poor guy a chance eh? He's probably busy right now making a 12 part series on how to make various types of joule ringer for youtube

    I've managed to get a 6W xenon tube working for 5-10 seconds after i remove the battery. Im using a flyback transformer instead of the fuji, and the bifilar seems to work best in the same position as i would normally put the base resistor. I have the output connected to HV +, and another pin on my flyback which seems to intensively arc after i remove the battery. Though honestly, i dont think this is the bifilar coil, and i dont think ive managed to replicate this effect. Have to keep trying today - its lots of fun!

    Good luck

    Leave a comment:


  • lamare
    replied
    Some time ago, I posted some stuff on the Joulethief thread after analyzing the Kapagen device:



    There are some interesting references there about bifilar coils.
    The principle is that there is a certain parasite capacitance between coil windings, which stores a certain amount of energy. By winding the coil bifilar, you get substantial bigger voltage differences between adjacent windings and therefore more energy is being stored in these parasite/self capacitances. Since the energy stored in a capacitor equals 1/2 C V^2 ( Energy Stored on a Capacitor ), this is a significant difference in the amount of energy that is being stored in the coils self capacitance. And since in resonance, this energy is being flipped back and forth between the capacitance (voltage) and the inductance (current, magnetic component) you get significantly stronger oscillations in there.

    [...]

    What is interesting is to compare Tesla's bifilar wound coil from his patent with the top/bottom coils in the Kapagen device. As you can see, Tesla connected them in series, in order to get the voltage difference, while in the Kapagen device they are wound CW/CCW. So, with Tesla's coil, the voltage difference between adjacent windings is distributed across the coil, while with the Kapagen device, this increases from top (connected part) to bottom. Given that with the Kapagen device, we have different length short coils at the top and the bottom, this suggests that you probably may use this principle also at higher harmonics with the Kapagen way of winding and still get this voltage gain effect. You see, with Tesla's way of winding, you only get the situation that the magnetic field caused by the currents trough each half of the coil cancel each other out at the half wave resonance frequeny (over the whole coil), while with Kapagen's, they seem to always(?) cancel one another out, or at least at more than one higher harmonic.

    So, it seems that with Kapagen's way of winding, you can create a pure (longitudinal, "pressure-like") electric oscillation across the coil windings, without creating a magnetic field....

    I also posted the idea for a solid state Kapagen device there:



    Based on that, I came on this idea to use a dual layer coil, with one layer wound clockwise and the other counter clockwise, which would be L4/L5 in this schematic:





    Of course, these are not the same as the ringer circuit shown here, but maybe they are inspiring for further experiments....

    Leave a comment:

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