Hi . It probably matters also the gas inside and the difference in cool white and daylight white . I tried a 25 watt cheapo and could not light it . its the kind that is sort of a bluish light and not the pretty warm white one you have .
Update . I got this circuit to oscillate with one of the wires disconnected from the bifialar where the germanium diodes so i think there is some capacitance in my coil . this thing runs on nothing hardly . my meter wont show any drop in volts . i need a 5 digi meter . its drawing somthing lke a 100th of a volt and still lights the 9 watt warm white cfl. . mind i am still on a battery parallel to a cap . This is big progress cause this thing draw less than a milliamp . Nice !! i cant wait for the right caps . i believe i have it low enuff using my mods . if i had a 10000uf . highest i have is 3300uf and it will not work more than a second.
Kooler try it !
EDIT**** I replaced the Bifialar coil with a standard torroid and jule thief wound like a HAZENS style with a seperate large secondary . It works reguaging the battery like this also . pic is hazen jt with a large secondary powering an led in place of lightsabers coil but using his two ther components while the circuit lights cfl with less than i can measure . battery is aa ni-nh and standing volts was 1.225 circuit off . same with circuit on and is reguaging . amazing . I am going to leave it alone untile tonight then i am putting it all in a project case !I am keeping this one and starting two more ..thanks LS again!
Albert
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@Everyone
I tried changing from my 15w spiral CFL to a smaller 8w spiral CFL. The smaller CFL would not light at all and I could hear the HV arcing in several places on the transformer.
I then switched to a larger 25w spiral CFL and it worked best of all. I could then raise the starting voltage higher before arcing began. Also it was brighter and ran for 16 minutes after the power supply was removed.
If you are replicating please try starting with 15+watt CFL. I think the circuit sees a small tube diameter as a resistance. Lasersaber got it to work with a small CFL in the video but his coils used much finer gauge wire than my Bedini trifilar (0.8mm) and probably generate a higher voltage to overcome the additional resistance that a small CFL presents.
I have attached a revised schematic.
Hope this helps!
Jonathan
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Hi Ewizard . Yes that is correct . Thank you for the MMS suggestion and guess what i have been taking it for two weeks now and i have some energy and feel better . I don't know whats it's doing to cancer and wont know untile i go in in two weeks.
The Circuit is STILL running . The volts topped off sometime last night and its 1.245 so it is reguaging and running a long time . CFL still lit and led is lit as well . 12 hours so far.It appears that the run time will exceed my original fuji mod of 25 hours but the light is not that usable however there is a reguage going on on the battery . Next i will try an ultra cap becuase the best run with it was 30 minuits without the modifications i did . Also the led wont light without a JT torroid on it ? strange . . i have some caps ordered 10000uf and hopefully this will be close . I am already building two more to put in fixtures and powered by aa battery .It would be nice to get a few weeks of light off a rechargable single cell . plus i havent explored the avramenco plug lighting yet with this . the led will light both ways from the far end of torroid jt to the two wires tied together but it wont light on the ends or nor the end closest to the bifailar coil .This is just somthing to try if you are one of us that can't get the cap alone to reguage . It will feedback some current to prolong this circuit . Hooking up the ultra cap now !I know the battery will last a long time as it didnt drop any from the start volts last night .standing volts after 15 hours of running is still 1.246 ,wher i started yeaterday . Nice.
Edit . Ultracap don't work .Its volts are going quick I suspect internal resistance is to low . like a dead short . SOOO . i'll try aaa alkline battery
AlbertLast edited by fusionchip; 01-06-2011, 02:09 PM.
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Hi folks, this is kinda related. I pried open the top of my ignition coil, it had a metal case, so i could not just wrap a feedback wire around the outside. So i pulled out the coil assembly, which of course is a little oil soggy. Is this oil only meant for cooling the cools. Anyway, i thought this might have use in this project or at least wrapping a feedback coil around the primary and make a joule thief cfl light out of it or something. Also, the primary to secondary coil has an air gap of about a 1/4 inch for anyone that is interested in knowing that. One would think the coils would be wrapped right on top of one another, though it's more like a tesla coil with that gap. We'll see what I can do with this.
peace love light
Tyson
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Well done all successful replications!
As soon as i get myself a disposable camera, i hope i'll be joining you. In the meantime, playing with the bifilar with a flyback, i can see the exciter effects that lid has noted - av plugs light LEDs near the bifilar. Ive also managed to get my exciter working by removing the base resistor and sticking in the bifilar coil. Havent seen any ''ringing'' effects, but i was happy to see it could work with a bifilar to bias the transistor.
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@ewizard - yes I was using a CFL and I edited my original post to reflect that. Thanks for spotting the omission.
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twofortheroad - nice first post and congrats on getting a replication. That is if I understood correctly you did although I didn't see if you were using a CFL or led or ?
Nice work everyone on this! I picked up a Fuji disposable locally although I came across some online for $1.79 each but the shipping was silly unless you were buying a bunch.
Nice job Albert but do take care of yourself and don't overdo things getting involved with this. Think MMS and Jim Humble if $20 a year isn't too much as that's about what it costs and it's one of the better cures to come along in a long time. I took a minute to reverse the germanium diode in your drawing if I understood you correctly. Like this I think:
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Hi folks, Hi lattice, thanks for the circuit drawing, that probably is correct. Though as someone pointed out, it must mean then that leaky diodes are needed or a high ohm resistor in parallel or cap to provide any kind of positive bias to the base of transistor, thanks, I'll be trying that later.
peace love light
Tyson
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Joule Ringer Exciter!!!!????
I worked some more with this and saw some "Exciter" stuff happening so I made a quick video. I think that my circuit is WAY off.
I am surprised that it worked.
YouTube - Lasersaber Joule Ringer 2nd attempt
Lidmotor
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Replicated - Congratulation LaserSaber
@LaserSaber
Congratulations Lasersaber - amazing circuit - never seen anything quite like it. Love your work. PTL
I have replicated and it works just as you show on your videos. Mine will run 15w CFL dimly for 10mins without power.
@Everyone
I deviated from LaserSabers coil and used a prewound Bedini trifilar and 15000uf. When I have time I will wind a coil as suggested.
There has been alot of speculation about the schematic on this thread. Attached is my version of the schematic together with LaserSabers original drawing. Enjoy. I hope this helps other replicators.
Be encouraged everyone!
Jonathan
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I found out something interesting . No it won't ring yet but i have been running it for 6 hours stright and the battery is increasing in volts over time ! I havent charged this battery in a few days of experimenting with it . its an eveready energizer c cell with standing vols of 1.246 with circuit off .
using a wound jt on a torroid connected to the leaking diodes with a few components from the fuji camera circuit this is running without any battery drop for 6 hours and actually started at 1.245 . its up to 1.251 now and lighting cfl and an orange led . I am getting some current back to the battery-cap keeping it going and increasing the battery . I'll let it run and check it in the morning . battery is 1.251 now was 1.245 6 hours ago . check it out . any questions let me know .The 1 k pot controls brightness and feedback balance . with battery gain the cfl is lit dimmly and the led lights . Full on and the cfl is BRIGHT and the led is off . 1.252 now!!I also checked for meter interference and disconnected the circuit and batery is holding now at 1.253 disconnected and i reconnected the meter and circuit and it was back to 1.252 and climbing.. look promising but time will tell .
Edit made a mistake . the extra germanium diode on my schematic is backwards so reverse it . its giving the battery neg charge
Albert
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This is my first post to these forums. I have been reading them for a while and trying various circuits here and there. As for this joule ringer I have gotten a bifilar toroid coil to work for 11 minutes (lighting a CFL) on about 12000 uF. It is 1.25" OD .75" ID .625 tall with approx. 70-80 turns in two or three layers of door bell wire (red & white twisted pair from Home Depot). I wound this coil till I couldn't get any more wire on it. It was a coil I hadn't used in a while and decided to try it instead of making a Stubblefield coil. The electrolytic caps were 10, 16 and 25 volts totaling approx 12000 uF. Some of these caps were scavenged from old electronics and I bet if I had newer caps the circuit would be much more efficient. I didn't have the 1n60 diodes so I used 1 megaohm resistors in parallel with a capacitor. I believe I used 3 1M resistors in series, paralleled with a 33 nF cap.
While experimenting I have burned up 2 transistors that came with the Fuji circuits and decided to switch to 2n4401 transistors. The Fuji circuit transistors max out at 10 volts according to the specs. FYI if you try to look up the specs the part numbers are prefixed with 2S (2SC5720, 2SD2504). For some reason they drop the 2S when labeling the part. 2n4401 work but I haven't been able to get as good a time out of them yet. Everything has to be matched to the transistor's gain. Currently I'm using a 50k pot in parallel with caps to make it easier to tune. Also with the 2n4401 you can charge your caps to a much higher voltage, producing brighter light and increasing lit time.
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Hi folks, how very interesting, the comments about so called reality here. Are folks here waking up to the fact that human systems are designed to keep people occupied with survival and thereby severely limit our ability to progress away from survival. food for thought.
Anyway, unfortunately, the led series string of 20 I was using is damaged. Must of been too high a voltage for it, at least it showed some of the 'joule ringer' effects while it survived. Obviously this project needs a higher voltage load for the voltage it outputs. While it was working, it was drawing 600 milliwatts lighting the led string to probably 75% brightness, which is pretty good considering it normally draws 2.4watts.
peace love light
Tyson
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@jbigness5, that sounds like a good start other than the odd wiring... I'll have to keep my eye out for one.Originally posted by Jbignes5 View PostI went out searching for a low wattage fl and found a 1.5 watt fl tube and was a night light. It only cost me 9.99 at RiteAid. A pretty good deal. It was in the hardware section and is a direct plugin to the socket type. The bulb is only 2-3 inches long but it has 3 wires out of each end. Figuring this out will be pretty hard but it is only 1.5 watts.
I am glad that Fusionchip is still going even after such heart breaking news about the cancer. Always focus yourself and stay on the course. It is when we let ourselves go down to the lower depths of life that we loose all hope. Hope and happiness is the key to health. Never give up and you will know in the end that you gave it your all. I hope you have a good long life friend and know that you will be in all our payers and hearts!
Had a big idea of upping the voltage to see if I could get some similar odd feedback results I saw with the other one... charged the caps to 12 volts... pooof said the transistor. Guess it wasn't such a good idea.
I proceeded to unsolder the transformer and took some measurements from it, the pins all seem to be tied together - I wonder if it's one coil with taps at certain turns.... taking it appart will be a quest for another day....
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Kitchen MeasuresLast edited by dragon; 05-11-2011, 11:13 AM.
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Congratulations and thanks for posting the schematic.
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