Joule Ringer!

[LaserSaber]

I noticed the 3rd, unused, coil connected to the scope showed 30+ volt spikes from it which was also interesting.

I have seen something like this on one of my bifilar coils. I have a ferrite core, one layer bifilar coil with a single wire secondary wound over the bifilar layer. I was able to get an LED to light off of the secondary on that coil.

[dragon]

Very good job! What size cap are you using? I am so glad to see that others are getting this working.

I just did some tests to check my mA draw. The little unit shown in my last video draws around 5mA when connected to a battery. On my test unit I found that I can start lighting a cfl dimly with just under 1mA draw on my battery.

I was using the same 6 - 10000uf caps in parallel as the previous test. I haven't checked current draw... I've been watching a volt meter and changing components to find the lowest drop over time while still lighting the tube.

I noticed the 3rd, unused, coil connected to the scope showed 30+ volt spikes from it which was also interesting.

I'm still a long ways away from your 40 minute run but I'm quite happy with the 15 so far... actually was quite tickled to see it go for 4 minutes yesterday....
________
ONE TREE HILL DICUSSION

[LaserSaber]

After reading Bolt's post, still not having the right diodes, I decided to try a resistor and diode - resistor to create the "leak". I used a 1n34 and a 2.2meg resistor in parallel and it works very nicely. I'm getting 15 min runs with the llight showing but it continues to run long after the light goes dim. Checking it with an LED/ av plug it continues to run right down to about .8 volts where the LED just won't light anymore... the scope shows it still oscillating though. Overall run time is about 25 minutes when it completely quits oscillating.

Very good job! What size cap are you using? I am so glad to see that others are getting this working.

I just did some tests to check my mA draw. The little unit shown in my last video draws around 5mA when connected to a battery. On my test unit I found that I can start lighting a cfl dimly with just under 1mA draw on my battery.

[dragon]

After reading Bolt's post, still not having the right diodes, I decided to try a resistor and diode - resistor to create the "leak". I used a 1n34 and a 2.2meg resistor in parallel and it works very nicely. I'm getting 15 min runs with the llight showing but it continues to run long after the light goes dim. Checking it with an LED/ av plug it continues to run right down to about .8 volts where the LED just won't light anymore... the scope shows it still oscillating though. Overall run time is about 25 minutes when it completely quits oscillating.

This one was using a 4w FL tube and a bedini style trifilar only using 2 of the 3 coils.

I have to get back to my other project but this is seriously intriguing !
________
MOTORCYCLE TIRES

[fusionchip]

Mark---Thanks for posting the link to the Talking Electronics Fuji Cam circuit diagram over at OU. I am reposting it here. That really helped explain what is going on in the basic oscillator circuit.

Xenon Flasher
Flasher/Page1.html

I see now why (on the AA board at least) the whole right half of the board can be cut off from the high speed diode on. I guess the magic on Lasersaber's circuit is happening at the 220 ohm resistor location --right in the middle of the centertap primary. I'll wait for some one else to get a bit closer cause i am wore out . taking the MMS treatment . I feel like not a million but a few dollars . I am using an aaa transformer and with a 220 ohm resistor its bright this 9 watt cfl but with diodes and the bi-coil i made its dim . .



Lidmotor

HEy Guys . well i managed to get the transforme rand transistor oscillating on one battery on a circuit board . My problem was the center tap and the other leg with 0 to 1 ohms needed to be reversed like a jt when the phase isnt right and my huntch was right the HV comes off the end not the CT ,then it took off. But still dies out within a half second of removing batteries . tried 9 volt 3 volts 1.5 volts etc. . I tried tanks and caps and two coils on each other . The magic must be in his stubblefield bifailar coil and with out exact instruction its a shot in the dark for me . I already wound two coils 6 layers air core and have the correct germaniums and transistor . The best cap i could find was a 3300uf 10 volt and by it self will light a white led up for 40 seconds if i charge it with a 9 volt . I'll just give it a rest . I think i am half way there ?.?
Al

[Lidmotor]

A link to the Fuji Cam circuit

@Gadget

Hi Albert , playing with the boys .

When i first say the Joule ringer , a assumed it was a regular fuji circuit , but it only uses the transformer and transistor of the circuit .

I presume now that the resonance of the added LS coil is the oscillator , the circuit may even turn off without it , that would explain some of the results.

Now how it works that is amazing to me ,it is like the coil activates the transistor on the pulse only not the energy of the pulse , i can't wait to have all the parts my self .

I agree the transformer must be pretty close to the same thing on the aa and aaa Fuji circuits , i guess you know that the legs may however be connected differently , but i bet the problem is not there .

It seems the coil can be replaced by a resonant tank , we don't know how the results compare , but that should help show where the problem is . I suspect the coil and diodes it seems crucial for good results .

Also i am not sure but isn't the cfl running on a single wire trick .?

Mark

Glad to see you are still kicking .

Mark---Thanks for posting the link to the Talking Electronics Fuji Cam circuit diagram over at OU. I am reposting it here. That really helped explain what is going on in the basic oscillator circuit.

Xenon Flasher
Flasher/Page1.html

I see now why (on the AA board at least) the whole right half of the board can be cut off from the high speed diode on. I guess the magic on Lasersaber's circuit is happening at the 220 ohm resistor location --right in the middle of the centertap primary.



Lidmotor

[mk1]

@Gadget

Hi Albert , playing with the boys .

When i first say the Joule ringer , a assumed it was a regular fuji circuit , but it only uses the transformer and transistor of the circuit .

I presume now that the resonance of the added LS coil is the oscillator , the circuit may even turn off without it , that would explain some of the results.

Now how it works that is amazing to me ,it is like the coil activates the transistor on the pulse only not the energy of the pulse , i can't wait to have all the parts my self .

I agree the transformer must be pretty close to the same thing on the aa and aaa Fuji circuits , i guess you know that the legs may however be connected differently , but i bet the problem is not there .

It seems the coil can be replaced by a resonant tank , we don't know how the results compare , but that should help show where the problem is . I suspect the coil and diodes it seems crucial for good results .

Also i am not sure but isn't the cfl running on a single wire trick .?

Mark

Glad to see you are still kicking .

[fusionchip]

I bought a fuji film camera this morning for the circuit and busted out the transformer. The side with two pins appears to be the primary with low resistance. The other side has one pin that is not connected, so basically three pins in a row (pin 1, 2 and 3). When I measure resistance between the three pins, it measures 175 ohms from pin 1 to pin 2 and from pin 3 to pin 2. The resistance from pin 1 to pin 3 comes up as a dead short.

Hope that helps in understanding the transformer...

I dont understand it at all ?.? My aaa fuji transformer ohms out exactly like your so the Hv out comes off the lead with the highest resistance yet in schematics it is center tapped. shouldnt the two outside legs be the highest resistance . the two leggs that are comming up as shorts are a secondary with a few turns centertapped then the rest of the coil is the third leg with HV on the end or length of the secondary coil...The Schematic will have to be redrawn i believe from a mod i did a while back this was deturmined to be the fuji layout. like this

[fusionchip]

this is what i just bought and drawed up for us.. this is the same as what he showed two in the box both has the same components and have double a batterys in them.. and they wont light a cfl out the box..

robbie

Hi Kooler . I looked everywhere for those !Thank you for drawing out the new fuji circuit . I can deal with it when i take the components off the aaa version as i am sure they are simular and it will light up a cfl BRIGHT ! I looked at walmart ,wallgreens and roses and bought one from each store and they were all aaa versions with a tiny transfo. Also tried to do the replication and i failed miserably .the cfl goes right out with a coil i made 6 levels deep on a small christmas paper roll. about a broom handle thickness two inches long .
this was with the aaa circuit . it goes right out after i remove power .I started with the base circuit shorting every resistor and diode .It did light up a large 26 watt cfl i had somewhat so it will oscillate with no components although i was trying it with an aaa battery instead of 9 volts .I replaced the 220 resistor with the bicoil with 4 old 1n60 germanium diodes . i have a few vintage ones left . I'll keep trying .
EDIT*** gutted one of my new tiny 9watt cfl's like lightsaber uses and it lights up BRITE on AAA battery but still no cap sustain .I don't think jumping the 220 resistor is the correct jump on the aaa fugu board as lightsabers pictorial is showing one wire from his coil to positive and that isnt the case on the aaa fugi board cause the base runs thru another diode to ground instead..and it wont oscillate without that diode .. soo i will have to remove the parts and breadboard them and see if i can find the setup to oscillate with aaa fuji.. will keep at it on this AAA version .any suggestions on the bifiailar coil . i wound about 300 turns paired up and down..?.??.?

Albert

[SkyWatcher]

Hi bolt, thanks for reply. You may be misunderstanding me. I understand fully the separate bifilar coil he has wound, I am only talking about the transformer part. I have essentially a solenoid joule thief with secondary coil wrapped around primary bifilar. What I am wondering is, can this serve the same function as the fuji transformer. My only issue is, obviously my primary bifilar is not center tapped on the core, it can only be tapped at the ends of the core, not sure if that matters, thanks.
peace love light
Tyson

[bolt1]

Hi bolt1, thanks for the circuit. Is the coil connected to transistor collector, is that the high ohm secondary of the fuji transformer or is it the coil on the top right, which would make more sense, thanks. Also I have a large ferrite cylinder core wound with an 18 gauge bifilar and a large 24 gauge secondary wound over it. It lights up any fluorescent with around 2 volts or better. Do you think the bifilar of this coil can serve the same function as the center tap transformer, if i just connect the ends of the bifilar and tap that, thanks.
peace love light
Tyson

The center tap traffo is the HT thing out of camera flash. The other one up top is the Bifilar.

No a bifilar is not a camera step up HT transformer with a center tap

Everyone should start with a base circuit as close a possible otherwise its impossible to iron out the bugs.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi bolt1, thanks for the circuit. Is the coil connected to transistor collector, is that the high ohm secondary of the fuji transformer or is it the coil on the top right, which would make more sense, thanks. Also I have a large ferrite cylinder core wound with an 18 gauge bifilar and a large 24 gauge secondary wound over it. It lights up any fluorescent with around 2 volts or better. Do you think the bifilar of this coil can serve the same function as the center tap transformer, if i just connect the ends of the bifilar and tap that, thanks.
peace love light
Tyson

[seth]

I havent got the fuji transformer so i decided to try with my flyback. Ive had the bifilar coil connected between the plus on my capacitor (10000 microfarads, 35V) and a centre tap on one of my flyback coils. It works, but only for a few seconds when battery is disconnected, and it works the same with the diodes in either polarity - so im convinced I havent seen the ''lasersaber effect''.

I tried Skaughts suggestion of a capacitor-resistor in parallel instead of the bifilar and the results were pretty similar. I even put the bifilar around the neon/CFL and got similar results.

Lots of fun this one! Who will be the first to run a sizeable lamp a whole day from one cap? Good luck!

[bolt1]

hold on a sec i pick one

This is my version of what i believe to be correct. With some life adjustments to compensate it will work in the SIM as a JT.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi bolt1, which circuit diagram is the correct one. I mean I plan on trying my luck with this, though I'm getting confused with all the different circuits. Lasersaber, could you please verify if any of the circuits posted are accurate or not, thanks. Otherwise, whats the point of all this if nobody knows what the circuit is, unless this is a crap shoot.
peace love light
Tyson