Stingo Solid State Battery Charger

[Guruji]

My Stingo

Today I finished my stingo circuit and tried it on two dead batteries. With amazement it charging the other with only 4ma
I am posting my circuit photo thanks to sucahyo help.

[cikljamas]

No, schematic in this thread show reverse mode. The arrow point to wrong current direction. normal mode should have the arrow point to negative of the source battery.

The schematic in this thread use reversed PNP.

Oh, well, now it make sense, but still puzzled how come you consider
reducing the consumption of current in reverse mode as rising of the
efficiency too ? My measurements do not prove that, efficiency stay
the same, we just have to adjust pot. to higher resistance to reduce
consumption of current in normal mode, but it doesnt mean that
efficiency changes at all, at least according my notations...Maybe i
miss the point somehow or i just have to make more experiments...

Does this mean that if i change this bedini window cole circuit in the
same way as you did with stingo (reverse PNP) i am going to reduce
current consumption just like it is case with stingo ?

I try to charge zinc carbon 1.5V battery today. Initially it is 3.14V and 0.28A.
After charging it become 3.09V and 0.67A.

So, people do not throw away zinc carbon batteries !
Stingo is superb for that purpose too !!!

How many times you estimate we could recharge these non rechargeabled
( )batteries ?
And what current input you use for 1,5 V batteries
and what current input you use for 9 V batteries ???

Rgds !

[sucahyo]

lower standing voltage after charging

I found this interesting.

I try to charge zinc carbon 1.5V battery today. Initially it is 3.14V and 0.28A.


After charging it become 3.09V and 0.67A.


So, battery can actually reduce standing voltage too after charging. I guess we can not rely with voltage to measure state of charge.

After resting and charging, now hold at 0.9A. Should hold for a month or so for remote control...

[sucahyo]

And final question : how come your schematics are not in reverse mode ?

No, schematic in this thread show reverse mode. The arrow point to wrong current direction. normal mode should have the arrow point to negative of the source battery.



nvisser point out this when he look at my photos:





Some first schematic show normal mode while I actually solder it in invert mode.... The schematic on old post still not corrected:

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/5645-combining-radiant-output-0-2-0-2-1-5-a.html

The schematic in this thread use reversed PNP.

[cikljamas]

No, it just means that in normal PNP use my stingo consume 1000 mA, and in reverse PNP use my stingo consume 450 mA. 1000/450 = 2.22. That is more than 100% improvement.

I just want to say twice more efficient.

But, what i did wrong not to be able to notice such a great improvement
when i switched PNP in reverse mode ?...I left that one stingo like that
(in reverse mode), but since it is 6 a.m. here, i soon go to sleep (who
normal goes to sleep in that time ?..no one !) so i am going to search
this thing today after a little bit of sleep...But, while i am still awake
i have to ask you how come that i noticed in fact opposite effect than
what you just wrote :

In my last post i just explained that there is more consumption of
current with reverse mode, and you said total different thing :
2,2 times less consumption of current...

Help me to become sober after this confrontation of opposite notations !
Maybe some hints could help...
And final question : how come your schematics are not in reverse mode ?

[sucahyo]

And it seems that this reverse combination gives stingo more stability when turning the pot., but i did not notice such a great difference in efficiency ( 100 % ?????????? ) Are you joking or what ?

No, it just means that in normal PNP use my stingo consume 1000 mA, and in reverse PNP use my stingo consume 450 mA. 1000/450 = 2.22. That is more than 100% improvement.

I just want to say twice more efficient.

[cikljamas]

PNP in inverted way get me more than 100% improvement in efficiency

So, i put the right question ?
I tried that switching tonight and i noticed that stingos lower
input (with highest resistance of pot.) is much higher than
when collector emitter are in standard connection...It is
because of emitter characteristic as one that consume or
transfer more current than collector i guess ?

And it seems that this reverse combination gives stingo
more stability when turning the pot., but i did not notice
such a great difference in efficiency ( 100 % ?????????? )
Are you joking or what ?

If it was the truth than we would have OU at once, am i right ?

Rgds !

[sucahyo]

You mean use the common instead of positive primary terminal?

Most old car coils I saw have a sign "B+" on primary terminal.
Does it meain it is free primary end and should be connected to battery minus to avoid headache problems ?

Godfrey and boguslaw, there is two type of car coil common. One is labelled positive and other is labelled negative. On my mallory promaster the common leg is labelled negative.

For my case, I connect the one with plus sign to the transistor / battery minus. minus sign to battery plus.

So with HV secondary output, the current still passed both ways beyond your FWBR?

Yes.

Now I know why my neons switch between lighting one side only or both sides as I adjust the knobs.

I would be interested to know if anyone obtain the same thing with different circuit. Because I recently in argument with someone that claim his HV output is DC even if it make the neon lit at both side. He assume it is DC based on HV DC meter which I think is not an indication of spark direction.

I’ve been considering simplifying things and using only one recovery diode per Stingo instead of an FWBR, because most of the time, my optimized tuning results in a positive DC pulse for output anyways. But I’m not sure yet how to simplify the combiner w/o more analysis.

I think you can do it easily by combining the output after diode to load positive, and connecting load negative to battery positive.

However, there is strong reason for why I use FWBR. I found that charging with single diode ruin the battery. Two of my SLA had become capacitor, high standing voltage but no current, no longer store charge.

The other reason is to get twice more efficiency.

How can load impedance be a big factor if the output is being rectified to DC?

low load impedance force the output voltage to drop. If it is HV it force it even more to the point of reducing efficiency.

Why bother with HV at all then? And in this case I want a fast charger too, not just a battery rejuvenator. What config would you suggest if I dumped the HV secondary, i.e. short it to common instead?

The theory is to try to raise the charging voltage as high as possible. But for radiant charger, it may not be neccessary.

For charging, do not connect the HV output to anything, for now.

What kind of caps should I acquire for this? What voltage rating?

50kv capacitor. Then you can do neat trick like what Jerry Volland do too .

I’ve been looking over your earlier multiple Stingo schematics as well as the latest combiner ones. I guess it's back to the drawing board on how to put together two ignition coil Stingos for battery charging.

I think simple one diode is better for HV output. But we shold only use it for battery desulfating.

Guys:
This may be a bit off topic here, but I have a question: I would like to connect a Jt to my 6 foot copper tube frame pyramid, which has been over my bed for the last 25 years. There is lots of oxide on the tube surfaces. Someone mentioned that copper oxide is good for the radiant charge to travel on the outside of the wire or tubes.
I also do have a water well in my back yard, where I could connect a ground wire to running underground water source.

Wow, that is long time.

For what purposes?

For health:
From my radiant sleeping aid experiment result, I can only suggest to use ungrounded water to dump/attach the radiant output.

I would connect the pyramid with the JT source positive.

However, my experiment with JT is somewhat negative. I remember getting headache, many other people here too. Although Jeanna report the opposite with earth battery and toroid with three coil.

For energy generation:
I would try placing radiant plus and minus to antenna located at combination of top, 2/3 height or 1/3 height. But I will put crystal at 2/3 height first.

Read pyramid thread too:

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/6497-pyramid.html?highlight=pyramid

I post reason why crystal at 2/3 height of pyramid can be important.

I deliberately adjust them to 900 mA, to be able to compare them (JT,one stingo, and three stingo) .

That is unfair I think. I think it is better if you tune the circuit individually. I think you can get more efficient result for all.

No, it is not the maximum, of course..., Tuning the 500 K pot. could be the last unresolved issue...I could try this too one of this days since i removed them and put instead of them resistors (100 K), i told you that earlier, maybe you forgot it, but it is ok, i forget too a lot of things...

100K is better for charger. But as I told you before, one of my double stingo have the potentiometer removed.

And one question at the end of this post :
What do you think about switching collector and emitter of PNP ?
Could it allow stingo more efficiency ?

PNP in inverted way get me more than 100% improvement in efficiency

Could you explain this a little bit more ?

I think he means it is better if your toroid can produce more than 60V. I think all toroid is capable of doing that.

I measured their consumptions one by one few days ago when i disassembled them, but if you still think that i should do this i could try that too !

Yes, thanks. I want to see how the power distributed.

Ideally, I would tune each stingo because combining the stingo may change resonant point.

[cikljamas]

cikljamas, Can you put amp meter to each stingo to measure their individual consumption?

I measured their consumptions one by one few days ago when i disassembled
them, but if you still think that i should do this i could try that too !

[cikljamas]

Hi Cikljamas. The Stingo Sleeper is something I've been devoting much attention to lately. My working one, which I've been using pretty much every time I sleep, uses a transformer, which is optimized to put out 60+ volt radiant spikes. I'm also considering using a toroid coil, which I think will work just fine. It puts out 90+ volt radiant spikes when only powered by 1.5V. Any coil that you can get to oscillate at 3 volts or so will do, except, as Sucahyo has cautioned elsewhere, ignition coils, which tend to give off a masculine energy which induces headaches.

Here's two additional threads where we have been discussing the details of Stingo sleeper circuits:

Radiant as electric orgone manipulator

Health Zapper Circuits - DIY and Experimentation



In my setup, I clip the the radiant positive wire to a folded length of aluminum foil, which is submerged in an open gallon jug of tap water. I place this at a distance from the sleeping area. The idea is to create a sink for the male, stimulating energy, similar to that provided by an earth ground.

The radiant negative wire clips to the metal of my bed frame...making it a type of antenna, which transmits the relaxing feminine energy. I also keep the circuit close to the bed because I think the coil flux transmits a similar type of feminine energy.

- Godfrey

Godfrey, thanks for your care and help !

transformer, which is optimized to put out 60+ volt radiant spikes.

Could you explain this a little bit more ?

[cikljamas]

What still puzzled me is how come you still have 900 mA input with three stingo. stingo is a load for source battery, I don't get how you get same consumption with three load....

I deliberately adjust them to 900 mA, to be able to compare them
(JT,one stingo, and three stingo) .

Is that the maximum efficiency you can obtain? I found tuning the 500K potentiomer important. Too high value consume more without increasing output current.

No, it is not the maximum, of course..., Tuning the 500 K pot. could be
the last unresolved issue...I could try this too one of this days since i
removed them and put instead of them resistors (100 K), i told you
that earlier, maybe you forgot it, but it is ok, i forget too a lot of things...

How about trying joulethief coil for stingo?

It wont work well, we discussed this too earlier, but to be sure i tried this
again today, and as i said, efficiency is not so good as with little toroids...

You can use your current stingo. Single stingo with single diode recovery, existing coil. Connect the positive of battery to your bed, connect the diode output to ungrounded water. Then see if it do something.
.

Thanks !

And one question at the end of this post :
What do you think about switching collector and emitter of PNP ?
Could it allow stingo more efficiency ?

Rgds !

[Farmhand]

This may be a bit off topic here, but I have a question: I would like to connect a Jt to my 6 foot copper tube frame pyramid, which has been over my bed for the last 25 years. There is lots of oxide on the tube surfaces. Someone mentioned that copper oxide is good for the radiant charge to travel on the outside of the wire or tubes.
I also do have a water well in my back yard, where I could connect a ground wire to running underground water source.
Any Ideas are welcome...

How well does your pyramid work ? How will you connect it ?

I would give it a go, but be carefull, it's a weird world we live in anything could happen. I always videotape anything that could have unexpected results for two reasons,
1. if something goes wrongs others will know what happened,

2. if something really interesting happens the video could go viral.

Anyway I would try connecting the output to a coil made to fit over the apex of the pyramid like a coil of large rings of normal magnet wire, or make the pyramid part of the circuit maybe. Lot's of things you could try, sounds like fun, and very interesting keep us posted if you try it.

Cheers

[NickZ]

Guys:
This may be a bit off topic here, but I have a question: I would like to connect a Jt to my 6 foot copper tube frame pyramid, which has been over my bed for the last 25 years. There is lots of oxide on the tube surfaces. Someone mentioned that copper oxide is good for the radiant charge to travel on the outside of the wire or tubes.
I also do have a water well in my back yard, where I could connect a ground wire to running underground water source.
Any Ideas are welcome...
NZ

[boguslaw]

Most old car coils I saw have a sign "B+" on primary terminal.
Does it meain it is free primary end and should be connected to battery minus to avoid headache problems ?

[Godfrey]

Design of Dual Stingo w/Ingition Coils

Hi Sucahyo,

Thanks for the feedback!

For health consideration, I would prefer if we revert the connection of the car coil primary, using it upside down in your circuit.

You mean use the common instead of positive primary terminal?

- I still fail to make a working high voltage FWBR. I have high voltage diode from Ben that work ok rectifying my car coil output but will not function as FWBR. neon bulb still lit on both direction on FWBR output.

- I think one source battery design is easier.

- I prefer to combine the HV output after a diode. A diode for each HV output. Combining before the diode may reduce the current going to the load since they will go the the other car coil instead.

- Since the load is low impedance relate to HV output.

How can load impedance be a big factor if the output is being rectified to DC?

We may end up charging the load with only 25V or so instead of >1000V. But this should be a good way to desulfate a battery.

Why bother with HV at all then? And in this case I want a fast charger too, not just a battery rejuvenator. What config would you suggest if I dumped the HV secondary, i.e. short it to common instead?

I don't think I can make this circuit because I don't have high voltage capacitor. I made a low voltage ceramic cap explode once.... If I replicate I will be using my latest combiner with high voltage diode and cap.

What kind of caps should I acquire for this? What voltage rating?

I hope someone can test high voltage FWBR with a neon bulb.