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  • ilandtan
    replied
    Originally posted by luc2010 View Post
    since i dont know for sure,

    may be, i must do the experiment?
    by conneting a cap to the mains and see if it can turn the home meter??

    thanks and regards
    It depends on:
    • How you are charging that capacitor.
    • If the input power charging the capacitor is affected by the load.
    • How quickly you discharging the capacitor


    A charging capacitor is a huge load, a charged capacitor is not. You pay for the charging. If you use the grid that way.

    In my EVG replaction, I charged a 450V/460uF cap to 400V using grid current. It used between 2 to 3 Amps at 400VDC. I was pulling 800 to 1200 watts to charge that capacitor and discharge the cap fast enough to provide continuous motion of a crankshaft. That is real power that is turning the meter.

    However there are more efficient ways to charge a capacitor (HV/HF). You can do it by radiant energy, and the input won't see the output load. In the case of a tesla coil RX/TX perhaps. Think of yourself living next to a radio station transmitter.

    You can get a tuned circuit to ring to the station frequency, and then place a diode bridge to drive your load. The radio station doesn't feel you leeching off their transmission. The downside is it's hard to scale up if you are making a TX yourself.

    Be safe if you are working on the grid, use an isolation transformer, and proper fusing.

    Leave a comment:


  • luc2010
    replied
    since i dont know for sure,

    may be, i must do the experiment?
    by conneting a cap to the mains and see if it can turn the home meter??

    thanks and regards

    Leave a comment:


  • ilandtan
    replied
    Originally posted by luc2010 View Post
    saved for later use!

    Sir,
    you ever come up with a simple solution?

    best regards
    luc2010
    LOL I tend to overthink stuff, but the cursed usually does.

    Leave a comment:


  • luc2010
    replied
    hi

    now my very stupide question:
    if we plug a cap 25 micro farad ( 350 ac v) to the mains
    it will draw 2 Amps?

    is that power registred on the home meter? ( cos 90 = 0 v*i *cos )
    this is var current?

    thanks
    best regards
    luc2010
    Last edited by luc2010; 12-18-2018, 10:40 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • luc2010
    replied
    Originally posted by ilandtan View Post
    Idea 1: I would use a conventional charger and that has a meter on it, which tell you when the battery is full, stop charging and take a voltage reading of the battery, then place a discharge load for five minutes and see where you're voltage is at; use that as your max voltage setting. Then you can buy an overchager module for 15 bucks and then set it to that voltage. Reasoning: There would be no need to supply more than that voltage so the cutoff would determine your answer.

    Idea 2: Buy a solar charger module and feed it with your capacitive source voltage. Let the module manage the three stages. Reasoning: The circuit is designed to do the thinking, no brainer.
    saved for later use!

    Sir,
    you ever come up with a simple solution?

    best regards
    luc2010

    Leave a comment:


  • ilandtan
    replied
    Use outside links

    Originally posted by Dwane View Post
    How do I upload a file to private massages?

    Dwane
    The paperclip button is not present in the private messages to use the attachment capability such as found in a reply of the forum.

    I usually use my amazon or google drive to give people access, to content via a URL. This way I control the accessibility and can easily withdraw the share after the user views or downloads the file.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dwane
    replied
    How do I upload a file to private massages?

    Dwane

    Leave a comment:


  • ilandtan
    replied
    Originally posted by luc2010 View Post
    Hello ilandtan,

    Thank you for taking the time to post, i am just trying to understand the battery charging process

    as we know, we have

    1-Constant voltage charger ''the standard method''
    2-Constant current charger
    3-Multistage constant current / voltage charger

    its advantages and its disavantages thats need to be compared?

    my guess,
    for the last stage we must stop the voltage to 15vor even higher?
    from 14v to 16v?
    i need a sign to finish the process?

    always, open to hear and try new ideas!!

    back to work!

    Thanks again for sharing
    luc2010
    Idea 1: I would use a conventional charger and that has a meter on it, which tell you when the battery is full, stop charging and take a voltage reading of the battery, then place a discharge load for five minutes and see where you're voltage is at; use that as your max voltage setting. Then you can buy an overchager module for 15 bucks and then set it to that voltage. Reasoning: There would be no need to supply more than that voltage so the cutoff would determine your answer.

    Idea 2: Buy a solar charger module and feed it with your capacitive source voltage. Let the module manage the three stages. Reasoning: The circuit is designed to do the thinking, no brainer.

    Leave a comment:


  • luc2010
    replied
    Originally posted by ilandtan View Post
    That seems like a curveball right away. What do you mean dead; Does that mean acceptably discharged, or discharged beyond recommended recovery levels? I'm not an expert on battery charging, but I can give my useless advice.

    A battery is a chemical device, so when you say it's dead, your telling me something is failing in the battery's ability to retain charge. Depending on the makeup of the plates, it's sulfation, the specific gravity of the electrolytes all contribute to the battery capacity, which is usually reflected by the voltage if all the baseline levels of the reaction are possible. However, you can't use voltage alone as the indicator of how many amps it can produce over a specified time.

    If you take a brand new AGM battery, I think it will be above 14V, but a used one will charge to somewhere around 13.5V. There are sites that have all this information, but the fact is that it's better to have a "smart" charger, because it varies the charge rate by where the battery in its charge leve.. i.e., bulk, absorption, and float. If you are leaving it on 1.28A charge rate, that is a low rate, but you can't leave it indefinitely because it will cook the battery.

    I have heard that radiant charges destroy batteries and make them more like capacitors, which we know doesn't work the same way as a battery. If you are using capacitors to charge a battery you can deliver high bursts of currents, but if you deliver too much it can damage the components. Heat is bad for AGMs, I've read. I recently bought a 5aHr battery and solar charged it with a 15W panel, in a month the battery slowly lost capacity because I had it out in the sun charging. I measured the voltage and everything worked as described, but the battery sides started to warp, and my charge controller started pulsing the load after an hour.

    If the battery is "bad" it could mean different things so. I have probably given as much useless information as anyone can tolerate. You might ask Turion, he breaths batteries because his 3B device revolves upon the charging of batteries.
    Hello ilandtan,

    Thank you for taking the time to post, i am just trying to understand the battery charging process

    as we know, we have

    1-Constant voltage charger ''the standard method''
    2-Constant current charger
    3-Multistage constant current / voltage charger

    its advantages and its disavantages thats need to be compared?

    my guess,
    for the last stage we must stop the voltage to 15vor even higher?
    from 14v to 16v?
    i need a sign to finish the process?

    always, open to hear and try new ideas!!

    back to work!

    Thanks again for sharing
    luc2010

    Leave a comment:


  • ilandtan
    replied
    Originally posted by luc2010 View Post
    Hello!!

    i am trying to charge my 12v 70AH dead battery! using capacitor charger
    with 1.28A

    the battery voltage gos up to 15.4 v on the meter and i stop it
    we can see the voltage run down to 13.6 v or something?? i dont know why

    where we should stop the charging process?

    best regards
    luc2010
    That seems like a curveball right away. What do you mean dead; Does that mean acceptably discharged, or discharged beyond recommended recovery levels? I'm not an expert on battery charging, but I can give my useless advice.

    A battery is a chemical device, so when you say it's dead, your telling me something is failing in the battery's ability to retain charge. Depending on the makeup of the plates, it's sulfation, the specific gravity of the electrolytes all contribute to the battery capacity, which is usually reflected by the voltage if all the baseline levels of the reaction are possible. However, you can't use voltage alone as the indicator of how many amps it can produce over a specified time.

    If you take a brand new AGM battery, I think it will be above 14V, but a used one will charge to somewhere around 13.5V. There are sites that have all this information, but the fact is that it's better to have a "smart" charger, because it varies the charge rate by where the battery in its charge leve.. i.e., bulk, absorption, and float. If you are leaving it on 1.28A charge rate, that is a low rate, but you can't leave it indefinitely because it will cook the battery.

    I have heard that radiant charges destroy batteries and make them more like capacitors, which we know doesn't work the same way as a battery. If you are using capacitors to charge a battery you can deliver high bursts of currents, but if you deliver too much it can damage the components. Heat is bad for AGMs, I've read. I recently bought a 5aHr battery and solar charged it with a 15W panel, in a month the battery slowly lost capacity because I had it out in the sun charging. I measured the voltage and everything worked as described, but the battery sides started to warp, and my charge controller started pulsing the load after an hour.

    If the battery is "bad" it could mean different things so. I have probably given as much useless information as anyone can tolerate. You might ask Turion, he breaths batteries because his 3B device revolves upon the charging of batteries.
    Last edited by ilandtan; 12-15-2018, 04:17 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • luc2010
    replied
    Hello!!

    i am trying to charge my 12v 70AH dead battery! using capacitor charger
    with 1.28A

    the battery voltage gos up to 15.4 v on the meter and i stop it
    we can see the voltage run down to 13.6 v or something?? i dont know why

    where we should stop the charging process?

    best regards
    luc2010

    Leave a comment:


  • ricards
    replied
    some thoughts based on experiments.

    The capacitance is AS IS, it varies by the materials and how its constructed, the value can be measured by its physical properties.

    whether the load is on the positive plate or the negative, as long as there is electric potential there will be an electric current and the load will be powered.

    electricity isn't just about electrons.
    plates aren't "CHARGED" with anything.
    there are some videos where capacitors are charged and disassembled and sorts of things to see where this "Charges" are "Stored".

    "Positively charged Plates" are like "Hot Plates"
    "Negatively charged Plates are like "Cold Plates"
    (or the other way around).

    when two are joined by a conductor you would have a "current" or "conduction"
    BUT..
    there is still a "Current" through the insulator and the ambient air, known as "leakage current".
    No batteries/capacitors remains "Charged" is a proof of that.
    you can never stop the current flow, only slow it down.

    "Heat" and "Electricity" are both recognized as forms of "Energy"..
    being both "Energy" they should show similar behaviors don't you think?..

    Leave a comment:


  • ilandtan
    replied
    Crazy Thoughts Of Don Smith Device

    I know if you study Don Smith's devices, and you come to the realization that devices, in his explanations don't behave the way he describes. The "Don Smith Effect" is something that he says is how all his devices work, but yet it is nonsense.

    How do you charge a plate of a capacitor, and only use the negative side to ground to power a load.

    My answer is to make the first plate a radiator, and then use charge separation to collect the radiated energy between the negative plate and Earth ground.

    I can prove this works.

    Now imagine a very large capacitor fully charged to maximum capacity, imagine the negative plate attached to a load and then to Earth ground. Disconnect Positive plate and insulate to minimize leakage.

    You get no current flow to the load to earth ground why?

    Because the capacity isn't measured from the positive plate of the capacitor, the capacity is between the negative plate and ground, which is tiny no matter how big the capacitor is. Hence Don is Nuts... well but what if we visualize the same scenario but we start thinking the negative plate is not stationary, but a rotating disk.

    Through charge separation, the positive plate is positive because we have emptied the electrons, and then gathered on the negative plate. If we disconnect the positive plate, the negative plate will remain electrostatically charged thus saturating the plate with electrons. If we spin the electrons off, we are creating a negative pressure zone, by pumping the electrons out of Earth ground.

    It's like taking hose in a pool and spinning it around, the rotation creates suction going against gravity. Because you created the pump effect.

    The flow of electrons creates current, the electrostatic induction assures a hefty gain as the electrons spin into the ambient again to be reused.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dwane
    replied
    Don Videos'

    Hi ilandtan,
    Have just finished Don's videos' you posted. I liked part 2, third trimester! best. More or less gives it all away. Consolidates information. I think this is the only video that I have seen where he becomes quite specific.

    Not to be seen as biased, I am trying to watch Rick's video at speed increase 3:1. Will stop if something looks interesting!

    Regards

    Dwane

    Leave a comment:


  • Dwane
    replied
    Originally posted by ilandtan View Post
    You don't have to tread that lightly, I only fixed them, and did not design them.

    I could however offer that the Bias voltage was a key adjustment, as the corona would could only charge the SE surface to a certain point, because the halogen lamps only had a certain level of light for neutralization; allowing the toner (powdered plastic) to statically adhere to the drum. Which had to be pulled off the drum on to the paper by the transfer corona.

    That being said, I don't know the foundation of your experiment. I am trying to understand the magnitude.

    It might be that UV is present 24/7, but how much energy is that?
    Hi ilandtan,
    It might be only a distraction. I am constantly waiting for components or materials, or trying to source something or working out what to do! I am waiting for components to arrive to tie up the Slayer tests, some machined parts for my Figuera device are ready and I am trying to work out how a resonant DC HV corona charge device works. I have some Carnauba wax on its way. The Selenium has slipped into the equation. However, there is a lot of interest in its usefulness. I do not have the conditions necessary to produce a satisfactory selenium cell. I still remain on course with the Don Smith outcome. The Selenium will be sometime next year!

    Thanks for your advice on this.

    Regards

    Dwane

    Leave a comment:

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