Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video

[ren]

Unfortunately I'm one of the 'old folks' to and I understand your frustration. My Fan Bedini would not self oscillate until I hooked up the ignition coil to it. It was dumb luck the way I found out. I was running the fan and hooked up the coil to it and it just stopped and went into self-oscillation.:surprise: The 25 ohm rheostat resistor that I'm using as a voltage/current control on the source battery helped matters to. Good luck.

Ren,
I hooked up my LB cap pulser straight to the source battery yesterday and it worked. I was surprised. I have always thought that you could not close the loop like that. I am going to leave the LB hooked up like that. It makes the whole thing alot easier. I set it up like you said so that I can still use the unit as a charger when I want to. The little battery pack will run the light for 4 hours now between charge ups. That is enough for me. Us 'old folks' go to bed pretty early these day.

Bodkins,

I experimented more with the earth ground yesterday and for some reason, in my circuit, I am getting high voltage all over. I took a modified CFL in my hand and could light it up by touching it to many different place in the circuit. The problem was that if I accidentally touched those places with any part of ME--I lit up!! Finally I got tired of it and just did something else for the day.

Cheers,

Lidmotor

Good work Lidmotor. Tell me, did you have the cap pulser hooked up DIRECTLY to the front end, or to a cap on the front end. I didnt see a decrease in amp draw when connected directly, I needed a cap over the terminals of the running battery. Handy setup you're right, you can funnel some back to the front or charge on the back. Did you notice a difference in light output?

I am all for reducing amp draw as much as possible, but I am trying to focus on modifications that reduce amp draw for none or very little loss in light output.


@ AC. "you have only seen one." hmmm.

Your explaination on the dual coil configuration made alot of sense to me. However I didnt factor in the part about one coil discharging into another. Interesting.

I also noted that if the primaries are wired in parallel you can hook both secondaries together and connect to light and then to ground/sink. I have yet to determine if two in parallel offer an advantage over one. Ive been thinking of using multiple coils with half in parallel and the other half in series.

I like the idea of charging a cap with the potential that has already been used by the light, a little like Bodkins has been playing around with. I havent had many results with it yet though. If I use one coil and have it discharge through the light to the charging batteries capacitor (-) I dont see any increase in charging ability, the light is brighter however because it now has a sink.

Many things to mull over...

[Bodkins]

up loading video ren brighter light no more ampdraw charging a cap.
its cool!!!!

[byjoveoldchap]

No mate, you can get it to self resonate without the other components too. Probably easier with them in though. Does your fan run with a Bedini circuit, that is, charging on the back end?

Hello Ren, thanks for your reply.

Yes, it is a 12v PC fan converted as per Imhotep's instructions and a charging output. I cannot see how it can resonate it it's present form, I have an extremely fine adjustment on the Base/trigger input and when i slow it down i can clearly hear the windings 'click' until the motor is running so slow that the coil output is too weak to energise anymore and so the motor stops.

No amount of adjusting with pot resistance/Base trigger can possibly make it resonate from this situation as the coil simply isn't energised until it rotates. I am using a 12v input battery.

If you can add any thoughts on this, I'm a good listener, [ I just need to get my hearing-aid batteries re-charged [ha, ha :-]

Thanks for your interst Ren, I LOVE your window motor, beautiful.

[Bodkins]

i think you need higher resistance on Base trigger.

p.s. To all, in the Waterspark plug thread everyones talking about negative ground.

[hh1341]

Rules for a Luddite

Questions for our think tank.............

#1
.......More voltage equals more light..............yes/no

#2
........Resonance is achieved when frequencies are in Harmony, either at the same freq or a multiple or factor there of.......yes/no.

#3
........Does a HV coil lose voltage output as frequency increases......yes/no

Supporting explanations would be helpful, as well.



Carl

[Bodkins]

This works because the diode is the wrong way around and the negative ground is connected.

I turned the setup before so if i touch the light it whent up and draw stayed the same.Its easy if you have a scope. thinks its possible without.

the cap negative has a diode too, silver bit to the steel. dont think we need that bit?

In the video When i say "ground" i mean "sink/negative ground"

got to go kids back from school
All for one one for All

YouTube - Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video Bodkins

[Lidmotor]

Cap Pulser to the front end

Good work Lidmotor. Tell me, did you have the cap pulser hooked up DIRECTLY to the front end, or to a cap on the front end. I didn't see a decrease in amp draw when connected directly, I needed a cap over the terminals of the running battery. Handy setup you're right, you can funnel some back to the front or charge on the back. Did you notice a difference in light output?

I am all for reducing amp draw as much as possible, but I am trying to focus on modifications that reduce amp draw for none or very little loss in light output.


@ AC. "you have only seen one." hmmm.

Your explaination on the dual coil configuration made alot of sense to me. However I didnt factor in the part about one coil discharging into another. Interesting.

I also noted that if the primaries are wired in parallel you can hook both secondaries together and connect to light and then to ground/sink. I have yet to determine if two in parallel offer an advantage over one. Ive been thinking of using multiple coils with half in parallel and the other half in series.

I like the idea of charging a cap with the potential that has already been used by the light, a little like Bodkins has been playing around with. I havent had many results with it yet though. If I use one coil and have it discharge through the light to the charging batteries capacitor (-) I dont see any increase in charging ability, the light is brighter however because it now has a sink.

Many things to mull over...

Ren,
I tried connecting the cap pulser up to the front end with and without a cap at the battery . On my particular circuit it didn't seem to matter so I hooked it up DIRECTLY. I watched and waited for things to heat up, blow up, or just stop-- but life went on. It knocked the amp draw down but it didn't really improve the light output. What I am pondering now is a permanent external charging method. If I leave this plugged into the wall outlet or the solar panel, with an internal charge maintainer circuit, then it will always be ready when I need it. Sort of like a rechargeable electric shaver that is used everyday and has the rest of the day to recover it's internal energy.

Bodkins,
I am still thinking about the earth ground and what to do about it.

Keep workin on it.

Lidmotor

[ren]

Hello Ren, thanks for your reply.

Yes, it is a 12v PC fan converted as per Imhotep's instructions and a charging output. I cannot see how it can resonate it it's present form, I have an extremely fine adjustment on the Base/trigger input and when i slow it down i can clearly hear the windings 'click' until the motor is running so slow that the coil output is too weak to energise anymore and so the motor stops.

No amount of adjusting with pot resistance/Base trigger can possibly make it resonate from this situation as the coil simply isn't energised until it rotates. I am using a 12v input battery.

If you can add any thoughts on this, I'm a good listener, [ I just need to get my hearing-aid batteries re-charged [ha, ha :-]

Thanks for your interst Ren, I LOVE your window motor, beautiful.

Ok, what pot/resistance do you have on your base? To get it to go solidstate you will need something in the vicinity of 2-10k (thats 2000-10000 ohms) on there. Try a 10k pot, but make sure there is a fixed resistor in there as well. 100 ohms or so. Very important that you dont just connect a pot to the base alone.

Solidstate can be trickey to start sometimes. Hook everything up except one of the leads to the run battery. Make sure you have a amp gauge in the circuit so you know if it is drawing anything when you connect the last lead. It could be going solidstate and you dont even know it because its frequency is too high to be audible.

@ Carl. Good to see you asking/thinking about some of the factors .

I can definately say that an increase in voltage does increase the light. I had it running on 36v 300ma last night and its enough to fully light up the whole room.

I cant comment on your resonance question, perhaps AC would have some insight there.

And I am not sure about the capability of the ignition coil at high frequency. Does it perform better at a lower frequency? Has anyone pulled one apart? I can hear oil sloshing around in mine, but I wondered if there is a iron/steel core?

Thanks for the vid Bodkins, good work. By the way what size is the cap you are filling on the back end? I think you are on to something about the spiral globes too, I was wondering if the HV finds it easier to conduct through a spiral path rather than around a bunch of 90degree bends?

Lid, interesting. I couldnt get any difference when I hooked directly up to the battery. I had to have a cap.

[hh1341]

Thanks Ren

I can do no wrong,

I'm running my 2 ignition coils with the output of my Bedini fan monopole.

I have run it successfully with the HV coils in series and in parallel.......
......with both HV twined together, open and closed.....
......with one HV to one light terminal and the other HV to the other end.....

......I can tune for the brightest light output and it will start making so much power it lights the neon

The combinations seem to be endless, and I can't seem to be able to blow anything up.

Couldn't get it to oscillate on 24 volts, but my Bedini was whizzing at 8000 RPM,(speed doubled) and the 4 lights were the brightest yet.

Is it possible to do the oscillation with a 555? I'd like to be able to lower the frequency rate and see if the coil output increases, and the light still lights.

Also thinking of building a voltage doubler with a LM2486.

Having fun

Carl

[ren]

Good stuff Carl, you are getting into it

So you cant get solidstate on 24v? Interesting. You may need a higher resistance on the base. To tell the truth, the genuine solidstate schematic is nearly impossible to not get going, but the fan makes it easy, especially if you already have one all sorted

You can use other methods to trigger the coil. A 555 could be used to pulse a transistor/mosfet with full adjustables.

If you look earlier in the thread I showed a pic of a PWM circuit that I used to pulse a Fet. It worked well, but was a little hard to tune.

Have a look at Dave lawtons D14 (Ash can show you a link) there is a simple 555 timer there you could build to test. Only use one of the 555's to start with I think

[ashtweth]

D14 direct link
Practical Guide to Free-Energy Devices - Chapter 10
Look For Dave Lawton

All is updated and added to the Doc

[ren]

You're on the ball Ash

Carl, this is just an idea for a 555 timer. You will note the three (or more) caps that are on the l/h side of the 555 schematic. These should be attached to the negative with a switch so you can select each one separately or all on etc. This is one way of adjusting your pulse width I think. You will have to use your imagination for the rest and implement the other components. The output could trigger the Fet as labeled or a transistor. Ive seen other pages with simple Tesla coil designs that utilise a 555 (in a similar configuration to JB's cap pulser schematic) to pulse a flyback or ignition coil for purposes of electrical arc/art entertainment

I note that Bodkins(?) originally had a PWM circuit originally with a Fet I think, he may have some more to say on it.

[hh1341]

O-scope

I have a DSO-2150 USB scope.
It is the type that uses a PC as it's brains and display.

I can't get a trace like Bodkins has. Could be cuz his is a CRT type scope or the test point he is using, or his circuit has a wrinkle we are not replicating.

Carl

[hh1341]

H2o

Ash, Ren,

The light is growing dim and my nose is twitching at the hint of hydrogen.

I need to focus, focus.

Thanks for the PWM info, even if it is buried in a minefield of distraction.

Carl

[byjoveoldchap]

Amazing Proof of John Bedini and Tom Bearden's Teachings?

Ok, what pot/resistance do you have on your base? To get it to go solidstate you will need something in the vicinity of 2-10k (thats 2000-10000 ohms) on there. Try a 10k pot, but make sure there is a fixed resistor in there as well. 100 ohms or so. Very important that you dont just connect a pot to the base alone.

Thank you for your reply Ren,
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Ok, what pot/resistance do you have on your base?
A = 150 ohm- [brown/green/brown]

To get it to go solidstate you will need something in the vicinity of 2-10k (thats 2000-10000 ohms) on there. Try a 10k pot,

A - Pot = 10k

but make sure there is a fixed resistor in there as well. 100 ohms or so. Very important that you dont just connect a pot to the base alone.

hmmm, interesting, why is that Ren?

Solidstate can be trickey to start sometimes. Hook everything up except one of the leads to the run battery. Make sure you have a amp gauge in the circuit so you know if it is drawing anything when you connect the last lead. It could be going solidstate and you dont even know it because its frequency is too high to be audible.

Okay I'll try that, thanks very much Ren, hopefully I will learn something from this

~~~~~~~~~

I wonder if you, or anyone else can explain this?
it maybe a job for Mr Lindemann...

I had a very strange effect last night while playing with my 'wee motor'.

Using a partially flat 4.8 battery [4 x 1.2 NiCads], I started the 'Bedini/Imhotep/By Jove Old Chap' fan motor and re-charged 2 x 'battery cells' that I had made up, consisting of 5 x 3v Alkaline button cells, [15v] each, in series. [30v total].

I adjusted the current to within 20-26mA and ran the motor/Energiser until the 4.8v run battery was exhausted.

This lasted only 32 minutes and 12 seconds.

I then swapped the batteries around.

~~~

The two '15v cells' connected in parallel as the run batteriy supply, with the 4.8v on re-charge.

I started the motor and maintained the same 20-26mA current, to see how long these 15v cells would last.

Previously, I had tried the 15v cells individually and had got an average of approx 3-4 minutes before they were exhausted.

Now, this is where it gets very silly...

How long do you think those 15v cells, connected in parallel would run for?

I thought maybe double? the previous run times, about 6-8 mins?

No.... they lasted for 55 mins 7 secs...!

I thought that was amazing proof of Bedini's teachings!
[and of course, Tom Beardon].


~~~