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  • theremart
    replied
    Next step forward... Grinder...

    Ok moving forward... attached is the picture of the grinder I picked up. it looks like it will work for Peters circuit, I now need to know the size of resistors in the circuit... Also I need to shave down the stator....



    Mart
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • aladinlamp
    replied
    Originally posted by theremart View Post
    Metglass is WONDERFUL stuff, but it will cost a FORTUNE to get I myself, amd starting I am not afraid to tear up, a vacuum motor. Once I have it mastered, then I will consider another direction.

    Again, goto the first few messages and you will see the link to the motor Peter revamped..

    Mart
    Don't worry, i've read and seen everything in this forum thread.
    Modifying vacuum motor might be great to test the concept and circuit,but i think materials and shapes are the key to success, thats why i want to find the best for this task.

    Leave a comment:


  • Eric
    replied
    hello!!

    hi guys!
    wow i've been gone for awhile and its seems like things are moving right along!
    sorry for disappearing for so long Peter life "really" got in the way for a bit and i had to put aside my projects, lol i have since decided to do a few less favors for other people and a few more favors for me!
    i finally have my mill up and running and i have found another local machine shop who is also working on an alternative energy device so they are a bit more interested in helping me.
    since my first motor worked great. i am now lining up parts for the next one
    coincidently my neighbor smoked the brushes on his weed wacker and inside was a motor just like the grinder motor jetis posted. since i dont have my lathe up and running right now, i am waiting for the machine shop to finnish a new rotor for that motor with a 5 thousands air gap tolerance. while i am waiting for the rotor i am trying to design my new circut. i learned a "lot" with my first motor so here is what i am after... i am hoping for some solutions from you guys who know a bit more about circuts than me.... right now i have a neat little basic PWM i cooked up with a 555 timer but i have much to learn to finnish my master plan
    if you go waaaaaaaaaaaayy back to the beginning of this thread you will find where i posted my first motor idea. that type of a motor was also a good starting point for me. there is still a link somewhere back in the beginning to my personal site where i uploaded some pictures of it. i still am going to use the same type of adjustable optical commutator but the type of circut i am trying to add to the existing one needs to have the following characteristics

    to give it a name i will call it the echo circuit

    first we have my optical commutator with the 2 disks i can slide together to adjust the ON time.

    second i wish to build a circuit that reads the ON time received by the optocouplers receiving transistor and "echo it"

    i want to electronically adjust/control the number of echoes pulsed after the first mechanical one. be it 1 2 or 3 pulses or however many i need

    in this circuit the duration of the ON time for all the pulses shall be adjusted mechanically with the disks. this gives us the advantage of controlling the duration of the ON time based on the rpms of the motor however,

    the next little twist in my idea is i want to control the OFF time "only between the pulses" electronically via a POT. the off time should NOT be static, but instead be a percentage function of the ON time read in the first mechanical pulse. I.E. if the circuit is set at 100% off time than we would have equal parts on and off or a 50% duty cycle i would like a maximum of 200% adjustablity built into the circuit so i have the flexibility to go as far as 2 parts off for every 1 part on.

    this circuit should allow me to control the ON time, the OFF time, and the number of pulses or echoes after the initial mechanical one giving me the ability to run 1 or a dozen pulses/echoes until the rotor is sucked in as far as it can go until it needs to be released and all power is turned off until the next pass.

    i will continue to work on this idea on my own but any help would be appreciated. plus i "think" that if we iron this circuit out and publish it here it should be pretty universal to what ever motor you modify or build from scratch.

    thanks!!
    Eric

    Leave a comment:


  • theremart
    replied
    RE: Metglass

    Originally posted by aladinlamp View Post
    Ok , lets start together, i like V1.0 design, what would be than the best material for the stator magnetic core, can it be something like this ?, or anything else located on that site?>

    POWERLITE FORMS
    MAGAMP - Square Loop Cores

    Thanx
    Metglass is WONDERFUL stuff, but it will cost a FORTUNE to get I myself, amd starting I am not afraid to tear up, a vacuum motor. Once I have it mastered, then I will consider another direction.

    Again, goto the first few messages and you will see the link to the motor Peter revamped..

    Mart

    Leave a comment:


  • Peter Lindemann
    replied
    Public Forum

    Originally posted by mskhalil View Post
    hi every one

    I am new and need help but, I ask , Did Mr. Peter Lindeman offer to jetijs only or for all human to share ideas and facts I really need to know, and I know the hadic for sam email or even sam men as I love to say

    Dear mskhalil,

    This is a public forum. You, and everybody else is welcome to the information presented here. If you are genuinely interested in these advanced electric motor ideas, I highly recommend that you purchase my DVD titled Electric Motor Secrets from my website at: Free Energy - Electric Motor Secrets, Bob Teal | Magnipulsion, Edwin Gray, Nikola Tesla, and other books & videos by Dr Peter Lindemann AND read this entire thread from start to finish. Don't ask anymore questions until you have done at least this much work yourself.

    Also realize that this is a relatively advanced project for home experimenters, and that you will not be able to build a motor with a COP>1 without access to a machine shop.

    Welcome to the forum, and good luck.

    Peter

    Leave a comment:


  • mskhalil
    replied
    Originally posted by Peter Lindemann View Post
    Jetijs,

    It may be frustrating, but it is possible to re-align the wheel to the shaft. It will take less than 1 hour to do it, and I recommend you try. Think it through. You can do it. If you need some ideas, email me at my private email.

    Peter
    hi every one

    I am new and need help but, I ask , Did Mr. Peter Lindeman offer to jetijs only or for all human to share ideas and facts I really need to know, and I know the hadic for sam email or even sam men as I love to say

    Leave a comment:


  • aladinlamp
    replied
    Originally posted by theremart View Post
    Hi aladinlamp,

    I think the best way to describe the situation is that there are now none known that are off the shelf ready to be done with Peter's method. That being said the first ones that have been shown are the custom made soleniod one at Bedini's shop, and the DC motor that had it's stator coils removed and stator cut with the preferred shape had to have work done on them to get them to work, and even then they were not up to the same standard of a Bob Teal motor. They did demonstrate that there is sound reason to believe that Bob Teal was really on to something.

    I posted the other motors, but they are merely suggestions, not guarantees... of them working. I can understand where Peter is coming from in not endorsing these motors, they come some were in the ballpark for Teals design, but they are not as good as a custom motor with the geometry correctly designed for this application.

    To this end, one can take an off the shelf DC motor and customize it, but will be hard pressed to get a COP >1.

    Jetijs is doing the hard way, making it from scratch. Yet this way has the most promise as it is as close to the best design structure of the Teal motor. Yet when you go where others have not been you have to struggle with unseen problems of the art. Balancing, parts, EXACT specs, and working with materials to learn their breaking point can bring one close to ones own breaking point ... But this is an art, and I believe Jetijs is learning this art. The first motor is a bear to make, but the next ones will come much easier once the master pattern has been forged.

    I myself, want to start small and maybee work up... I am just looking at this project from different angles. I suggest you look at the start of this thread, you will find links to the original motors and others looks at the design.

    Cheers
    Ok , lets start together, i like V1.0 design, what would be than the best material for the stator magnetic core, can it be something like this ?, or anything else located on that site?>

    POWERLITE FORMS
    MAGAMP - Square Loop Cores

    Thanx

    Leave a comment:


  • theremart
    replied
    RE: off the shelf.

    Originally posted by aladinlamp View Post
    What is than in theory the best shape of rotor and stator to achieve maximum efficiency of the whole system.
    Suppose i want to build such motor by myself, shoudl i just try as many designs as possible ? is the "smallest gap" the only recommendation _?

    Thanx
    Hi aladinlamp,

    I think the best way to describe the situation is that there are now none known that are off the shelf ready to be done with Peter's method. That being said the first ones that have been shown are the custom made soleniod one at Bedini's shop, and the DC motor that had it's stator coils removed and stator cut with the preferred shape had to have work done on them to get them to work, and even then they were not up to the same standard of a Bob Teal motor. They did demonstrate that there is sound reason to believe that Bob Teal was really on to something.

    I posted the other motors, but they are merely suggestions, not guarantees... of them working. I can understand where Peter is coming from in not endorsing these motors, they come some were in the ballpark for Teals design, but they are not as good as a custom motor with the geometry correctly designed for this application.

    To this end, one can take an off the shelf DC motor and customize it, but will be hard pressed to get a COP >1.

    Jetijs is doing the hard way, making it from scratch. Yet this way has the most promise as it is as close to the best design structure of the Teal motor. Yet when you go where others have not been you have to struggle with unseen problems of the art. Balancing, parts, EXACT specs, and working with materials to learn their breaking point can bring one close to ones own breaking point ... But this is an art, and I believe Jetijs is learning this art. The first motor is a bear to make, but the next ones will come much easier once the master pattern has been forged.

    I myself, want to start small and maybee work up... I am just looking at this project from different angles. I suggest you look at the start of this thread, you will find links to the original motors and others looks at the design.

    Cheers

    Leave a comment:


  • Peter Lindemann
    replied
    Re-align the Wheel

    Originally posted by Jetijs View Post
    I got my wheel today:





    The whel is machined so that its circumference is exactly one foot or 304.8mm.
    I told this guy to make the iron mounting piece at first and then bolt on the wheel, which was slightly bigger than needed, so that then he could just use a lathe to machine the plexiglass to the right diameter. Unfortunately after this was done, he disassembled both pieces (and I asked him not to do this before). This is bad, because the mounting holes on the wheel and the mounting piece are slightly bigger than the bolts themselves, because of this it is almost impossible attach the wheel on the mounting piece precise and a big off center appears. This makes the motor vibrate alot and I even have to attach one more nut on one of the bolts to balance the motor so that it doesn't vibrate around on the table. This solves the vibration, but the off center is still there and if I load the wheel with a leather strip, the strip just shakes at every revolution making a steady reading impossible.
    Now I will have to bring the wheel and the mounting piece back to this guy in one piece and ask him to machine the wheel to a bit smaller size, just so that the off center is gone. This is frustrating
    I will get the wheel re machined and just wait for the spring scales, then we will see.
    Jetijs,

    It may be frustrating, but it is possible to re-align the wheel to the shaft. It will take less than 1 hour to do it, and I recommend you try. Think it through. You can do it. If you need some ideas, email me at my private email.

    Peter

    Leave a comment:


  • aladinlamp
    replied
    Originally posted by theremart View Post
    I am starting to look for various designs of motors and I found this one on youtube. This is a solenoid motor. I am thinking this might have potential for our design target of zero emf.


    YouTube - Solenoid motor of my own design.


    This one looks simplier, and has torque.

    YouTube - Solenoid motor with electronic control


    This will make you laugh!!

    YouTube - solenoid concert
    Is there any place where i can buy off the shelf solenoid motor similar to one used in EMS DVD ?

    Leave a comment:


  • Jetijs
    replied
    I got my wheel today:





    The whel is machined so that its circumference is exactly one foot or 304.8mm.
    I told this guy to make the iron mounting piece at first and then bolt on the wheel, which was slightly bigger than needed, so that then he could just use a lathe to machine the plexiglass to the right diameter. Unfortunately after this was done, he disassembled both pieces (and I asked him not to do this before). This is bad, because the mounting holes on the wheel and the mounting piece are slightly bigger than the bolts themselves, because of this it is almost impossible attach the wheel on the mounting piece precise and a big off center appears. This makes the motor vibrate alot and I even have to attach one more nut on one of the bolts to balance the motor so that it doesn't vibrate around on the table. This solves the vibration, but the off center is still there and if I load the wheel with a leather strip, the strip just shakes at every revolution making a steady reading impossible.
    Now I will have to bring the wheel and the mounting piece back to this guy in one piece and ask him to machine the wheel to a bit smaller size, just so that the off center is gone. This is frustrating
    I will get the wheel re machined and just wait for the spring scales, then we will see.
    Last edited by Jetijs; 05-13-2008, 11:08 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • theremart
    replied
    RE: Piston..

    ROFL

    I am just waiting for you to get yours working and turn up when your back is turned poof, motor gone

    Leave a comment:


  • Jetijs
    replied
    Hi Mart
    If you are interested in the solenoid model replication, maybe you could use some parts of the cheap 12V car air compressors. They have a solenoid, a piston and some counterweight in them. Here are some pictures:







    You can get these on ebay for under 10$ a piece. You might need to change the piston, because if it is made from aluminum, it will not work, Then you will just need to wrap a coil around the cylinder (of course, the cylinder might need also to be custom made) and viola - ready If it would prove to work well, you could stack two or four of these on one axis to get more torque and eliminate inertia. Also you get a good DC motor that you ould use for other projects Or course, this a just a poor mans way

    Leave a comment:


  • theremart
    replied
    Thinking this threw again.

    I am starting to look for various designs of motors and I found this one on youtube. This is a solenoid motor. I am thinking this might have potential for our design target of zero emf.


    YouTube - Solenoid motor of my own design.


    This one looks simplier, and has torque.

    YouTube - Solenoid motor with electronic control


    This will make you laugh!!

    YouTube - solenoid concert
    Last edited by theremart; 05-12-2008, 01:50 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • aladinlamp
    replied
    Originally posted by Peter Lindemann View Post
    Mart,

    Jetijs is right. This motor will probably not allow COP>1 mechanical energy production. What it will do for you is this. 1) It will allow you to make a fully operational rotary attraction motor by just modifying the rotor (cut some of the lamination lobes off and remove the copper coils). 2) It will allow you to demonstrate all of the "no back EMF" operations for yourself. 3) It will allow you to work out all of the commutator and power switching circuits.

    Once you have all of that working well, you might be motivated to make a new rotor with a tighter clearance to increase the mechanical energy production.

    Its a better place to start than the PM motors.

    Peter
    What is than in theory the best shape of rotor and stator to achieve maximum efficiency of the whole system.
    Suppose i want to build such motor by myself, shoudl i just try as many designs as possible ? is the "smallest gap" the only recommendation _?

    Thanx

    Leave a comment:

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