Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

[marseye]

Continuity is not the point.

Put your multimeter in Ohms reading configuration. Then, your 2N3055 should give you a reading above 0.500v when :
- Positive probe on the base and Negative probe on the collector
- Positive probe on the base and Negative probe on the emitter
- You should have no readings in reverse order, except that of the diode if it's in place.

For the diode, you should read the same value (more than 0.500v) when putting the positive probe on the anode and the negative probe on the Cathode (side with a white or black line).

If you're successful with these tests, then nothing burned.

85v neon bulb (or NE2: 65v already with a resistor) should be better than 220v bulbs, because the spikes may reach slightly around 200v peak only. As 110v bulbs already glow faintly, 220v may be too high.

[franzink]

defective diode and 2n3055

i have tried on a cooling fan and somehow ended up with the diode in the wrong direction of the 2n3055, i have checked the components again and the 2 diodes and 2n3055 do not have continuity anymore

ill buy extra diodes and transistor and test the Imhotep circuit again tomorrow and will solder the components into a PCB with many holes instead to be 100% certain i do not commit any errors

will post here if i have succeeded

im staying here in SouthEastAsia will it be perfectly fine to use a 220Volts Neon? bec they do not have 110V Neon here

[marseye]

Yes, I think you understood well. If 1 & 2 gives you a ohms signal : they are linked, isn't it ? So : they are 1 wire Then, there must be a start and an end, right ? The same for the other 2 poles.
Then, having 2 wires, you can apply what is shown for a real bedini motor, as shown on the link that I have previously given to you. The principle is the same if you have two independent wires, wheter it is monopole (as in a regular wheel) or multipole (as it is in your fan).
If no spin : swap only 1 wire in/out (so that the current will now flow with the same direction in both wires : induction is had that way)

Now, you can watch your bulb glowing ...

[franzink]

mistake

that means:

group a : 1st coil (START) and 2nd coil (END) (both are connected and reads 45 ohms)
group b : 3rd coil (START) and 4th coil (END) (both are connected and reads 45 ohms)

so i will do this:
use 1st coil and 3rd coil for POSITIVE?
use 2nd coil and 4th coil for NEGATIVE?

if it does not spin i will just swap the position of 1st and 3rd? or swap the position of 2nd and 4th?

please help

thanks

[franzink]

wrong wires

you mean i will use 1st and 2nd wires with 45 ohms for one side of the circuit? and 3rd and 4th wires with 45 ohms on the other side of the circuit?

[marseye]

Ok, then you have 2 wires with a start and an end ! whatever which is the start or the end, if it then don't spin, just reverse one wire only.
Maybe it's wise to read the previous posts first ... But here's a direct link for you to understand :

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/2003-free-energy-last-step-step-must-see-18.html#post54619

Some posts from me around this one might be of interest for you, as for others very beginners.
Good luck.

[franzink]

help on Cooing Fan

I have already used 5 fans and followed step by step on Imhotep You Tubes instructions and cant seem to have it working,can you please help me what went wrong?

As my understanding on the cooling fan there are 4 coils and each coil has start and end wrap

i followed Imhotep instruction to find the POST that has 2 wires and remove 1 WIRE to make 4 post

so i tried to out multitester and my readings
1st wire and 2nd wire : 45 ohms
3rd wire and 4th wire : 45 ohms

1st wire and 3rd wire : no connection no ohms reading
1st wire and 4th wire : no connection no ohms reading

3rd wire and 1st wire : no connection no ohms reading
3rd wire and 2nd wire : no connection no ohms reading

thats means 1st and 2nd wire are connected and they are not connected in anyway to 3rd and 4th wire

which wires to connect to the circuit diagram? need help to make it working

[Bodkins]

I did and am still doing work on the idea of the ground as the link to the answer.
the way we may do it is in the potenail difference of the two sides of the setup.
I call it kick back as you can see in the videos
YouTube - Singlewire lightbulb Singlewire charging

also the first post by SIR Arron on the SG earth battery thread.
its all linked together


Take care
B
x

[Aaron]

putting recovery to front side

how can I feed back some of that spike pulse voltage to power the circuit (and be able to remove the power battery)..my thinking would be a sort of capacitor rig.

It can be done with capacitors. After giving a small charge to the caps, the system self sustains from an Earth battery. Output to a cap is fed back to the input cap.

YouTube - Self Running Bedini Oscillator

It works as long as the front cap doesn't directly see the back cap.

[Joit]

My next question; how can I feed back some of that spike pulse voltage to power the circuit (and be able to remove the power battery)..my thinking would be a sort of capacitor rig.

Thats a big Question where a lot Peoples are looking for, feel free to share, when you get a answer .

When you directly feed the Spikes back, you get a Short.
You can feed them back after adding a certain ammount of Resistance, but then they loose Power.

[aleedap]

COP:Infinity

Nice show, EM properties never cease to amaze me.

After viewing your scope vid, I had to go into the attic and retrieve my old O scope from my RF days...hooked it up and, in short order, was able to replicate the same scope profile on your video...a way off the page pulse spike, the charger spike.

My next question; how can I feed back some of that spike pulse voltage to power the circuit (and be able to remove the power battery)..my thinking would be a sort of capacitor rig.

[Bodkins]

Bodkins
Thanks for the lead.

I have some video at that youtube of lights too, also ground kickback, once you start looking with fresh eye the world starts to change!!!
Love and light
Bx

[aleedap]

Bodkins
Thanks for the lead.

[Bodkins]

YouTube - Fan SG Bedini

[aleedap]

Thank you

Thank you for the responses. I have clearly been working with a 12v Bedini system. I take it then if I go to a 24v system I will get more charging pressure? What is the profile of the wave form that will create max charging? Can you post an image?

My fan is an 80mm size the coil pairs measure about 30 ohms each pair and the winding wire is small dia. I also have a 4" fan ( a lot larger dia. winding wire) these coil pairs measure about 6 ohms per pair. This fan then will allow more current to flow? and I will most likely need more pressure (volts) for that fan?

Thank you