Motor Generators

[BroMikey]

This universal motor dia is better because it shows all of the windings and how they are connected. When you chop off half the windings the resistance is less and 115v will melt the remaining winding. I want to do this myself and have been thinking about it.

Come to think about it start at 20v and go higher till the amp draw rating peaks.

You will need more than a pulse circuit you will also need the circuit to use a hall effects sensor to time the pulses. Normally the timing is done by way of the commutator.

[BroMikey]

Also Memphis
You will be interested to know that Peter Lindemann gutted a universal motor rotor but he did not use magnets, he use a solid rotor and he got good results. Without magnet just a piece of iron for the rotor he got good power and more RPM's than when the motor was made using only 20vdc pulsed. This is because the universal has 2 windings and they are the rotor winding plus the outside winding in series. I repeat both windings are in series running on 115vac or 115vdc. BUT when you remove half the windings you will not be able to run the outer winding on 115v because of the amp draw. You must find the right voltage for your converted motor by slowly increasing the volts while measuring the amps in your winding being careful not to exceed the awg wire rating. You can look at the motor plate and see the rated amps. When the amps are reached that will be your max voltage.

This is a general dia of a universal motor but the rotor winding are not shown.

[BroMikey]

Thanks Memphis

I am straight up now. You have a motor where the rotor has a winding on it normally but you eliminated the brushes and the winding which creates a magnetic field was replaced with magnets. Your motor is called a "UNIVERSAL MOTOR"

This is not an easy task, look at a treadmill circuit board / controller they are using a universal motor or a PMM. You can power a universal motor with AC or DC. They are the same as a drill motor which can run on either. I am unsure what the inspection plate says on your motor.

You are somewhere in between but now a PMM, try 48vdc and work your way up with a Variac is a good first step. Because you took out half the windings.

Ask David Bowling, he is powering a universal motor up and changing the RPM's
He could tell you where to buy one. How about it Dave, got any inklings?
.................

[Memphis]

IMG-20220519-WA0005.jpg this is the machine, of course being a test I didn't waste too much time to look after the appearance and I used recycled materials, so don't pay attention if the structure seems a bit strange, the important thing is that it absolves me well task. Now I would need a scheme for powering the engine at short adjustable periods to find the best combination to give the flywheel enough momentum and keep the batteries charged. IMG-20220519-WA0006.jpg

[Memphis]

IMG-20220519-WA0009.jpg IMG-20220519-WA0012 (1).jpg IMG-20220519-WA0011.jpg IMG-20220519-WA0010.jpg no, I don't convert an alternator into a motor, I just modified the motor to avoid it using a part of current to produce the magnetic field of the rotor, now I will try to post the photos.this is the rotor I modified

[BroMikey]

Hey Memphis
I understand your request now. Everybody is converting an alternator to a motor. I like this conversion and see his part 1 video before this one. He uses off the shelf easy to get your hands on components. That's the way to go. Is this what you want?

[Memphis]

I will try to explain myself better in detail. I took a 24v alternator of a caterpillar, and I modified the rotor by inserting strong magnets to make it brushless, now according to the rotation speed the output in volts varies, which I will try to regulate on 24v to be able to charge the batteries . The motor is also a brushless, I have already tried to make them rotate at the same time without flywheel to see if they were self-sufficient, following an idea of those that run on youtube, of course yet another fake, the alternator cannot give enough current, so I thought of modifying it by adding a flywheel to take advantage of its inertia and give continuous thrust to the alternator while the engine works briefly to save energy and try to avoid the back-emf.

[BroMikey]

Here is an excellent example of low drive motor input driving a second rotor plus the free wheeling arm on the grinder. This is so far above the sceptic all they can do is eat Thane's dust.

A single regenX generator coil far left, in the center section a regenX motor with readings displayed. How would one dismantle the drive section and for what purpose? 4 years ago.

Everything here is nearly identical to John B. SG having a rotor with magnets and coils acting on the magnets to motor along and also collect back the collapsing field all at the incredibly slow speed of 300 rpm's. Then generator coils were also part of the same rotor but in Thane's video for the sake of demonstration lowering confusion a second rotor holds the generator coil (singular)

The rpm is now over 10X faster where cop is higher that cop = 1 as with the SG. It's a motor generator folks and everyone knows who inspired the concept.

[BroMikey]

bro,
If Thane claiming his system is a self runner,..... How do we calculate that without knowing what it requires to run the motor UNLOADED? That's basic info.

Exactly, that basic info of the unloaded condition has been part of all of Thane's video's for a decade. Why the site controllers reject Thane on that basis shows they do not see Thane's video's and the mere questioning of his personal integrity is enough to let Thane know he is unwelcome.

What an extra grinder motor pulling a static wattage of 75watt will change whether or not Thane's motor generator is now viable? Thane is smart enough to know when he is being abased by many who spoke to soon.

Thane does not need this site to get his work noticed but it sure would have been nice to see Lindemann and Dollard receiving Thane with open arms so he could be challenged in person. Dollard does not believe Thane has anything.

The site controllers made a choice, so be it. With Aaron stuck in the middle trying to please all of those who spoke out against Thane early on. There must be something I don't know. Who would have been embarrassed? John gave the principles a green light but John is not here is he?

Anyone who in interested may see the many years of Thane's presentations complete with unloaded drive motor readings displayed on his power analyzer, so to challenge Thane based on a lack of fundamental data sends a signal that he must be hiding something already shown. The message is "We don't see your video evidence nor believe you" but you know as well as I do the principles work the same on your incomplete setup.

See you in a few weeks, I hope your visit is a good one with the family.

PS here is my finished soldering / iron lead welder for the Alum battery posts

[Turion]

Memphis,
It sounds like you are using a DC motor to turn a flywheel that is connected to an alternator which will produce power. If that's the "circuit", there is no need to "pulse" anything, unless you want to pulse the DC motor directly from the battery for some reason. You can put a kilowatt meter on the battery, connect up the motor to the meter, rectify the output of the alternator to a load, and put a meter on the output. If the output to load does not exceed the input to the motor, there is no need to complicate anything by trying to "loop" the system to keep the battery charged, because it won't. Even if the output is GREATER, it will be tough to keep the battery charged up, because of the impedance of the battery. It will be even HARDER to run a load and charge the battery.

bro,
If Thane claiming his system is a self runner, just fire it up and let it run itself. He should be allowed to do that. Pass or Fail grade. Is that his claim? I don't think it is, but I don't know If it isn't, we are evaluating it based on its efficiency. How do we calculate that without knowing what it requires to run the motor UNLOADED? That's basic info.

[BroMikey]

I don't have Thane's machine sitting on my bench, so I will not even TRY to answer that question.

My new rotor will be out of the shop tomorrow, but I leave for two weeks to see my kids and THEIR kids. When I get back, I will be assembling the rebuilt machine with the new rotor. Can't wait!!!

John B use to talk about this subject of tearing another man's system apart and John would say "of course it doesn't work with a part here and a part over there or a part someone ran off with" then the "see I told you" comes next.

Like taking a Briggs engine off the generator to see if fuel consumption is lower. Anyway this it turning out to be the most ridiculous entry I have ever witnessed driving away Thane. I guess these people do not like Thane or are worried he is a fraud before he gets a chance to show a looped system.

Glad to hear you will be back in the shop working in a few weeks. I have done only small projects trying to get back into shape after 10 weeks of triple bypass. I feel good. I'll show you all my soldering tool for projects. Got to have a good iron.

[BroMikey]

Basically I would need a scheme that allows me to send direct current pulses of adjustable duration to the motor. Thank you very much to those of you who will be able to help me by showing me an electronic scheme to build for my need.

Howdy Memphis

It would be best to show us your mechanical design as well as your coil dimensions, number of turns, awg wire used. You can't design a circuit without seeing the set up. Is it a standard induction motor or a universal? Maybe a PMM?

[Memphis]

Basically I would need a scheme that allows me to send direct current pulses of adjustable duration to the motor. Thank you very much to those of you who will be able to help me by showing me an electronic scheme to build for my need.

[Memphis]

It would be even better to keep the alternator connected to the batteries and send pulses of current with adjustable duration to the engine

[Turion]

Aaron is absolutely correct, and this is what I have been saying all along. When the Motor is running and completely disassociated from the generator coils (With the rotor on the shaft and no coils in place) it will run at rated speed with a specific input of volts and amps. You could call this the "unloaded" condition, even though adding a rotor to the shaft IS a load.

When the generator coils are placed near the rotor the amp draw of the motor will increase simply because the magnets on the rotor are turning past the cores of all the generator coils, and even when the motor reaches its rated speed, the input to the motor has INCREASED from the "unloaded" condition. If the amp draw is RESTRICTED to the original amount of amps the motor was provided in the unloaded position, the RPM of the motor will DECREASE. This is what Aaron is calling the "pre-loaded" condition. Because there IS a load on the motor. That load is caused by the motor counteracting the attraction the magnets on the rotor have to the cores. It exists. Anyone who actually builds a large MULTIPLE COIL MACHINE will see this. With a couple coils, the difference is imperceptible. With 12 coils it is significant.

I am sure that Thane believes that the "speed up under load" coils allow him to increase the rpm of the motor to the original (or greater) rpm than what is seen in an unloaded condition, and that he has something special. Will the speed up under load coil allow the motor to attain the same RPM as it had in an unloaded condition? How about when you have SEVERAL of such coils slowing the motor down. I know that as you add more coils, the negative effect of each new coil is WORSE than the previous coil in a compounding effect, while the speed up under load positive effect is the SAME for each coil. I don't have Thane's machine sitting on my bench, so I will not even TRY to answer that question. I know what I see with MY coils and MY rotor, but I am not using the same core material or coils size as Thane. I know from experience that the generator coils do NOT put out maximum output when they are acting as "speed up under load" coils. I have also seen how NEGATIVELY this attraction of rotor magnets to coil cores affects the amp draw of the motor as well as its RPM. That is the entire reason I went with the "neutralizing magnet" arrangement in my generator.

My new rotor will be out of the shop tomorrow, but I leave for two weeks to see my kids and THEIR kids. When I get back, I will be assembling the rebuilt machine with the new rotor. Can't wait!!!