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  • John_K
    replied
    Great work Bit's!

    Originally posted by Bit's-n-Bytes View Post
    & Battswapper

    Ok gang, here you go. With so many threads, This truely is the thread that started it all. Take a look;


    YouTube - SelfRunning 10coiler.MPG

    Thanks

    Jeff
    Hi Bit's,

    Great work! My you have been a busy boy...

    So how does the 10 coiler fit into the picture? I'm not real clear on exactly what is doing what. Perhaps a chicken scratch of a block diagram that shows which each part of the system does would help?

    Again, great work. I'd love to replicate this.


    John K.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bit's-n-Bytes
    replied
    Use for the Tesla Switch, &, inverter, &, 2 cap pulser, & 10-Coiler &--

    & Battswapper

    Ok gang, here you go. With so many threads, This truely is the thread that started it all. Take a look;


    YouTube - SelfRunning 10coiler.MPG

    Thanks

    Jeff

    Leave a comment:


  • StevanC
    replied
    I still put my bet on the "dynamics" and the "unidirection" of the currents in the batteries.

    Something tells me there is some sort of a sensibile "avalanche" condition happening in the L.A.B. if pulsed with the right "dynamic".

    Best regards,
    Stevan C.
    Last edited by StevanC; 06-30-2010, 06:54 PM. Reason: typo :(

    Leave a comment:


  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    I can run my monopole on it no problem, but I don't dare back charge with the solid State relays. They don't like that spike.

    I'm setting it up for 24 volt again, by putting the batteries in series (48/24 setup). I might have to add some batteries but I can then put the motor generator on maybe another load and knock the potential down to 15 volts and run the inverter.
    But I am probably going to have to get more batteries to get 1kw off of it.
    The motor charges for sure I already did it with the last setup that was a 36volt/12volt. The only deal with it was the center battery was not getting charged and the outsides batts were. But it still charged overall.

    Matt

    Leave a comment:


  • vallentin
    replied
    Originally posted by Matthew Jones View Post
    So anyway I am not giving up I am just going to reconfigure to 24 volt and add some batteries. I am going back to trying to charge with a Motor Generator combination as apposed to the Battery Charger. The motor generator combination did a better job of charging in quicker period of time.

    No matter what I am going to get this system to work so I can come up with numbers. Its just funny how so far no matter the build I do It always shows me another problem to solve.

    Cheers
    Matt
    Hi Matt.
    Have you tried to run an SSG after the bridge? Are the results the same?
    Or a transformer as in the RB 24V schematic and then the bridge?

    Valentin

    Leave a comment:


  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    Just throwing out a little update on big system.

    Right now I am pretty frustrated with the thing. The potential at 12 + volt is a problem and I can see why a 24 volt system has little more flexibility.

    If you start adding up the losses in the system up to the bridge rectifier you can see how 12 volt system is almost not feasible.

    I used an inverter and 500 watt load to test and find the losses. I start out with no load and have 12.6 volt potential at the bridge.

    The switching although minimum as I can find in solid state costs about .75 volt. leaving me around 11.9v
    From the switches to the front of the bridge across a number 8 wire I get another .10v loss or so so then I am 11.8v
    I got better diodes, Big schottky at 50v 80amp the have a loss of .45 between the VAC point in the system and the + or - DC point on the bridge. So now I'm down 11.35. Before I put a load on the system.
    I turn the inverter on with no load and loose another .05. Then add the 500 watt light and drop another .45.
    At this point the potential on the bridge sits at 10.75. So I can run the system about 30 seconds and the inverter will alarm (Which I am close to cutting out of the circiut) but I can keep running another 2 minutes or so before I actually need to switch.

    So the solution I found that worked the best was to add several 2 volts cells to the system putting the batteries at 14. + volt. This worked out better and I can actually get about 4 hours of runtime out of it but the losses in everything go up slightly and the little cells do not like to be in that position and eventually peter out and have to be charged again.

    The one thing that is really a disappointment is the solid state relay. The forward voltage drop is alot higher than claimed in the data sheet at the pace they are running. at 50 amp they should only dropping about .08 to .10v.But measureing them they are around .25 to .30 x 3 switch's.

    One other thing has come up is the impedance in the deep cycle batteries that I haven't seen before. The voltages climb real quick on the charge side decreasing the amount of time I have to run. Smaller batteries didn't act this way. It almost as if the charge doesn't want to absorb.

    So anyway I am not giving up I am just going to reconfigure to 24 volt and add some batteries. I am going back to trying to charge with a Motor Generator combination as apposed to the Battery Charger. The motor generator combination did a better job of charging in quicker period of time.

    No matter what I am going to get this system to work so I can come up with numbers. Its just funny how so far no matter the build I do It always shows me another problem to solve.

    Cheers
    Matt

    Leave a comment:


  • StevanC
    replied
    Originally posted by Matthew Jones View Post
    Thanks Steven. I didn't know they came that big. I might look into getting some. I gotta slew of Black and Decker Nicad packs for drills, I never seen any that big.

    @Bytes
    Thanks. I was just wondering if you had driven a transformer straight. I am reading alot on them so I get my head above water when it come to the subject.

    Cheers
    Matt
    Hi Matt,

    say nothing, I dropped my jaw to the flor (DJTF?) I saw this few years back, I think I know exactly how You feel ;-)...
    I did see those before while in military service, only didn't think I get my hand on any of these (and I did ...), and they ROCK,... worth the effort...

    Glad I helped,
    Stevan C.

    Leave a comment:


  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    Well gotta little progress today. I dug out some 2 volt cells I had from an earlier project and added them to each bank giving me 14.5 or so per side.

    I got the thing to run on a 10 minutes each side for switching and managed to actually charge the batteries. LOL each one went up about .05 volt in a 4 hour runs. And I ran a 100 watt load in addition from the inverter.

    I'm happy.

    The 2 volt 1.5 amp hour cells probably are not liking the abuse though. But It give me some hope. If I can get the potential up I can make this work.

    I probably need to go ahead and bump up to a 24 volt system and bring the potential at the bridge down, but to pull a bigger load I'll have to have a few more batteries 8 more probably.

    Anyway just wanted to give the good news. A little more time I'll have it whooped.

    Matt

    Leave a comment:


  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    Originally posted by StevanC View Post
    Matt, prepare Your self to cry:

    The OMM.pdf got most of my attention though (they can be stored "dead short" indefinitely (!!!!) !!)

    Stevan C.
    Thanks Steven. I didn't know they came that big. I might look into getting some. I gotta slew of Black and Decker Nicad packs for drills, I never seen any that big.

    @Bytes
    Thanks. I was just wondering if you had driven a transformer straight. I am reading alot on them so I get my head above water when it come to the subject.

    Cheers
    Matt

    Leave a comment:


  • vallentin
    replied
    Originally posted by nvisser View Post
    I did not try that one either
    I posted it so you could see how to connect the load.
    It sounds like you found something extraordinary!!
    Could you tell us more as that spikes surely sound like what we all were chasing and most could not find.
    To make this TS work we do need an extra high energy spike from somewhere like the high voltage negative spike that JB gets from the MJL transistors
    What loads did you use and did you get any charging?
    Regards
    Vissie
    It was a simulation only. With a couple of 1:10 transformers as loads.
    My actual TS is 70% (need a few parts) done and I cannot reproduce the effect right now, nor measure the frequency.
    I used livewire to simulate the 6 batt. setup (it has no freq meter ) and found what I showed in the picture. Could be a software flaw, or not. We'll see.
    I'm glad that we can set things in motion once again.
    Good luck to everyone!

    Valentin

    P.S. Have anyone tried a Tesla pancake coil as a TS load? Or a transformer built as such?

    Leave a comment:


  • Bit's-n-Bytes
    replied
    Originally posted by Matthew Jones View Post
    But a while back you made a video with the transformer(8 -10 pages ago). Is that the same thing you just gave a schematic for or was the transformer the load, period with no driving device.

    I gotta step up my output from 13.6 volt AC (unrectified switch output) to somewhere around 17 volt unrectified. SO I am wondering If I need to use a transformer with a driver, or is it possible to just drive the transformer with the switch.

    I'll probably have to build it or buy some big thing to actually make it work.

    My only other option is to step up the whole switch to 24 volt again and knock down the voltage by using a large high loss diodes in the rectifier. Use 12 diodes in series instead of 4 singles for a rectifier.

    The inverter I have drops the potential at the bridge rectifier down sa far that my switching times have to stay short. I can run the entire switch at real high speed but the problem is even worse. And the long runs seem to be more conservative.

    I hope you follow what I am saying.

    Matt
    Ah, I remember now. I used the transformer as a load for the TS and was able to get a fair amount of voltage out of it. I had to run my TS at a higher freq. as well, so this may not work for you. Here is my vid;

    YouTube - D-TS & Transformer.MPG

    The inverter I just posted works real well, and with another transformer (not the one in the parts list, but the one shown in the vid) I am able to get 6, 15, 28, 44V AC depending what windings I hook up. Not knowing your setup, I would use this inverter in conjunction with the TS. It can be hooked up to 12 V, AC or DC.

    Thanks

    Jeff

    Leave a comment:


  • StevanC
    replied
    Originally posted by Matthew Jones View Post
    Whats an SAFT?? I don't think NiCads are that old. But maybe they are. But its hard to find big nicads so I don't know. I know Bedini used them when ever Mueller published that paper.

    @Bytes
    If your around. Were you driving that transformer before just off of the switch output?
    I am wondering if that possible. I need to step my voltage up and I can either do it after the battery or before the load. So I was just wondering if you can drive a transformer that way or if you got to have other components.

    Cheers
    Matt
    Matt, prepare Your self to cry:

    SAFT owner and maintenance manual
    Who is SAFT?
    What are NiCad-s


    The OMM.pdf got most of my attention though (they can be stored "dead short" indefinitely (!!!!) !!)

    Stevan C.

    Leave a comment:


  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    Originally posted by Bit's-n-Bytes View Post
    @Matt, you know I am always around. The transformer is being driven just of of the inverter, and the inverter is being driven right from a 12V batt on the charge side.

    Does this help?

    Jeff
    But a while back you made a video with the transformer(8 -10 pages ago). Is that the same thing you just gave a schematic for or was the transformer the load, period with no driving device.

    I gotta step up my output from 13.6 volt AC (unrectified switch output) to somewhere around 17 volt unrectified. SO I am wondering If I need to use a transformer with a driver, or is it possible to just drive the transformer with the switch.

    I'll probably have to build it or buy some big thing to actually make it work.

    My only other option is to step up the whole switch to 24 volt again and knock down the voltage by using a large high loss diodes in the rectifier. Use 12 diodes in series instead of 4 singles for a rectifier.

    The inverter I have drops the potential at the bridge rectifier down sa far that my switching times have to stay short. I can run the entire switch at real high speed but the problem is even worse. And the long runs seem to be more conservative.

    I hope you follow what I am saying.

    Matt

    Leave a comment:


  • groundhog
    replied
    4 Tranny Version?

    [QUOTE=Bit's-n-Bytes;100292]Forget the 6 tranny version. If you want some success, take a look at



    Begining on page 5-27 under the title "The PIC Revolution"

    As well as more info.

    /QUOTE]

    @Bits

    Awesome sir! Thank you for your input and for the link! So you think I'm 'gettin' it? That really makes my day!

    The version in the chapter5.pdf referenced above (4 tranny) is the version you are using now to drive the inverter with the code you just posted above?

    Looks like I'll be puttin in my parts order @ the end of this week! And movin from the 'mind bench' to the real one!

    groundhog!

    Leave a comment:


  • Bit's-n-Bytes
    replied
    Forget the 6 tranny version. If you want some success, take a look at



    Begining on page 5-27 under the title "The PIC Revolution"

    As well as more info.

    And if you really want to charge a batt, take a look at Vissie's 2 cap pulser.

    You have written a nice recap of history,

    Happy testing.

    Jeff

    Leave a comment:

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