My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[tony1968]

You guys seem to be too deep into whatever your in to.

This thread should be renamed: My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines 1000 year discovery.

No offense to UP. I need to see a massive breakthrough before i retire.

[HuntingRoss]

You guys seem to be too deep into whatever your in to.

This thread should be renamed: My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines 1000 year discovery.

No offense to UP. I need to see a massive breakthrough before i retire.

It's always a wonder to me that people like you come to places like this and say things like that. It serves no purpose whatsoever.

[wantomake]

breakthrough

You guys seem to be too deep into whatever your in to.

This thread should be renamed: My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines 1000 year discovery.

No offense to UP. I need to see a massive breakthrough before i retire.

No offence to you, but maybe you would be the one that makes that breakthrough. But sadly if you don't get involved and try to build, we'll never know. I don't have a PhD or degree in engineering or science, but my heart and desire to be free is enough to contribute something to this journey.

We will finish soon,
wantomake

[prochiro]

lightworker1

I wish my setup was as neat as yours, every thing in its place.....

I have also been working with the Goldmine motors and seem to recall you talking about the caps you use in these motors but wonder what caps you are using and what your knowledge now is about pro's and con's ether way about using them or further testing ideas.
Dana

[thaelin]

Hi Ross:
I am going to jump in here with the best advantage for you if you are going to join two motors together. Seek out the DIY CNC suppliers and order a coupler for the size of shaft your motors has. Once you know the correct alignment for the shafts, file a small flat spot for the set screws and you will always have the right spot. They are a bit spendy but sure do fix the issue spot on. I scattered both my motors so had to start over. Job has been 6/7 days a week so no time really to do anything but sleep. So I just follow along with the group here when I can. My personal thanks for you picking up the ball and running with it too. Somewhere someone will make the discovery to make us all a bit better in life and that could be you so run with it.

UFO....

Still with you here but just no time for the bench anymore. Sad to see all that good stuff just sit there and not used. 750 watt motors only 90$ but no damn time to do it. Chow......l.

thay

So...here is my first faltering steps into this world of stuff never taught at school.

I have two 24v DC 120w scooter motors which I intend to cut off the back shaft s and bond them together using Loctite 290. I figure this will keep the correct alignment of commutator to rotor slots.

The motors are 12 pole wound as 5 pole 23 winds per coil. They develop a staggering 0.42N.m at 2500rpm. In other words you can easily stall this on a bench test with only 5v running through it by just using your thumb and forefinger with a cloth to save your skin. I intend to use the 5v power supply as a datum against the rewind when I have it complete.

I've just ordered a bunch of basic test equipment so I can check the stats as I get them.

I'm going to try a 3 coil/group 3 pole/coil 4 winds/coil and see if this works. This is against a background of me trying to absorb the info in UFO's videos with brush positions, centre magnets...Honestly. My head is spinning (no pun intended) with the overload of information.

I shall add a few photos for good measure in my next post when I get my equipment delivered.

The very best to all...and good speed

mark

[Cornboy 555]

New Digs.

Hello Everyone, great to see new blood, continuing to come here, Hunting Ross.

Sorry I cut out mid stream, I have my farm listed on Realestate.com, and am spending any spare time answering potential buyers emails, and organising inspections.

My daughter has just bought a property, to secure it for me, it is off grid, and will be very close to off Mortgage, with a pristine, huge flow, river running through it, that originates in locked up state forest.

It is 800 meters above sea level, with only 3 neighbours up stream, that don't farm.

When I settle in I should have some Quality time to experiment, so just a big HELLO, to everyone, and I will be a more participating member here shortly.

[HuntingRoss]

Shaft coupler

Thanks for the welcome thaelin, cornboy.

The shaft coupler is a nice idea to help me dodge the required cut down on one of the motor bodies. Less work always sounds good. Thanks.

Set screws and flats on the shaft could be saved with the Loctite 290 or solder. I will consider once I have the other motor stripped, which is about to be bench marked for later comparison.

mark

[DadHav]

Hello Everyone, great to see new blood, continuing to come here, Hunting Ross.

Sorry I cut out mid stream, I have my farm listed on Realestate.com, and am spending any spare time answering potential buyers emails, and organising inspections.

My daughter has just bought a property, to secure it for me, it is off grid, and will be very close to off Mortgage, with a pristine, huge flow, river running through it, that originates in locked up state forest.

It is 800 meters above sea level, with only 3 neighbours up stream, that don't farm.

When I settle in I should have some Quality time to experiment, so just a big HELLO, to everyone, and I will be a more participating member here shortly.

Good Luck, I hope you'll post some pictures sometime, it sounds like a beautiful property.
J

[Lightworker1]

Hello Everyone, great to see new blood, continuing to come here, Hunting Ross.

Sorry I cut out mid stream, I have my farm listed on Realestate.com, and am spending any spare time answering potential buyers emails, and organising inspections.

My daughter has just bought a property, to secure it for me, it is off grid, and will be very close to off Mortgage, with a pristine, huge flow, river running through it, that originates in locked up state forest.

It is 800 meters above sea level, with only 3 neighbours up stream, that don't farm.

When I settle in I should have some Quality time to experiment, so just a big HELLO, to everyone, and I will be a more participating member here shortly.

Our Dear Friend my prayers to God are with you for you to come out of this situation ASAP and peacefully as possible.
I know you will be back ASAP. God's Blessings are with you.
Good luck on the new property secured by your daughter.

Warmest Regards
lightworker1

[Lightworker1]

Part 1 Video of Goldmine Dual Pentagon Y Asymmetric Motor

Hello I am preparing Part 1 Video of the Goldmine Dual Pentagon Y Asymmetric Motor titled "Theory and Practical Construction of Goldmine Dual Pentagon Y Asymmetric Motor"
As I was still in the process of rebuilding arduino controlable power supply, I thought mean while do the part 1 and present results and analysis in the part 2
I was also trying to put any videos related to the current projects on the YouTube as well

One such video is:

A1302 RPM Hall Sensor for the UFOPOLITICS Asymmetric Motors
A1302 RPM Hall Sensor for the UFOPOLITICS Asymmetric Motors - YouTube

Thanks

Warmest Regards
lightworker1

[DadHav]

Hello I am preparing Part 1 Video of the Goldmine Dual Pentagon Y Asymmetric Motor titled "Theory and Practical Construction of Goldmine Dual Pentagon Y Asymmetric Motor"
As I was still in the process of rebuilding arduino controlable power supply, I thought mean while do the part 1 and present results and analysis in the part 2
I was also trying to put any videos related to the current projects on the YouTube as well

One such video is:

A1302 RPM Hall Sensor for the UFOPOLITICS Asymmetric Motors
A1302 RPM Hall Sensor for the UFOPOLITICS Asymmetric Motors - YouTube

Thanks

Warmest Regards
lightworker1

That's pretty nice work LW. I always wanted to try something like the printer process you showed on the video. Maybe some experimenting with the paper and printer settings could bring better results. Have you ever heard of a clear film that you could lazer print on to use like a negative for dry etch boards? That's if people still use dry etch kits. I haven't etched a board in many years now. You could use sunlight as well as a UV box on some of them. thanks for the tips and video.
John

[HuntingRoss]

Question

So...here is my first faltering steps into this world of stuff never taught at school.

I have two 24v DC 120w scooter motors which I intend to cut off the back shaft s and bond them together using Loctite 290. I figure this will keep the correct alignment of commutator to rotor slots.

The motors are 12 pole wound as 5 pole 23 winds per coil. They develop a staggering 0.42N.m at 2500rpm. In other words you can easily stall this on a bench test with only 5v running through it by just using your thumb and forefinger with a cloth to save your skin. I intend to use the 5v power supply as a datum against the rewind when I have it complete.

I've just ordered a bunch of basic test equipment so I can check the stats as I get them.

I'm going to try a 3 coil/group 3 pole/coil 4 winds/coil and see if this works. This is against a background of me trying to absorb the info in UFO's videos with brush positions, centre magnets...Honestly. My head is spinning (no pun intended) with the overload of information.

I shall add a few photos for good measure in my next post when I get my equipment delivered.

The very best to all...and good speed

mark

So. General question.

Turning the armatures back to back necessitates doing the same to the casings as the magnets are towards the bottom of the casing.

This puts the ends of the magnets in opposition approximately 10mm apart which is the distance between the laminations of one armature to the other.

In a perfect world the north and south magnets in the rotated casing would want to be removed and rotated to attract their twins in the other casing but they are securely bonded.

I anticipate this isn’t ideal...but my question is this –

Does it sound like a fundamental problem to the operation of the motor or is it “just not ideal” ?

Thoughts welcome

mark

[Lightworker1]

That's pretty nice work LW. I always wanted to try something like the printer process you showed on the video. Maybe some experimenting with the paper and printer settings could bring better results. Have you ever heard of a clear film that you could lazer print on to use like a negative for dry etch boards? That's if people still use dry etch kits. I haven't etched a board in many years now. You could use sunlight as well as a UV box on some of them. thanks for the tips and video.
John

Hello John thanks for the comment on the video. I have just finished getting right the the silk-layer of the circuit board using eagle cadsoft. All these actions consume time (fuel of life) but as I said eariler, I needed this as investment for the on-going projects. Now I have dedcided on using photo-resist method using uv box. Here are useful videos for all to consider if they choose to do so. The resolution I know will be excellent. Long long time ago I used to make use of photoresist methods to make tantalum thinfilm hybrid circuits. That's the type of circuit modules they used in the now the retired SST Concorde engine control system boxes.


Well here are the videos:


How to make PCB using Photoresist Dry Film

How to make PCB using Photoresist Dry Film - YouTube

I like methodology behind the use UV LED Strips because it will produce uniform uv illumination. This uv box absolutely essential if one needs reproducible results:

Making a led UV PCB exposure box - YouTube

Also some while back, JohnStone also, I think stated that one can use RS Components website to design circuit boards. I have not tried that one yet. If anyone does let me know. Thanks.
Warmest Regards All

lightworker

[NEXUS10]

I get the messagge sorry this video is PRIVATE! How do we watch the video?

OVERUNITY_TEST_UNEDITED_TRACK_1

[DadHav]

Hello John thanks for the comment on the video. I have just finished getting right the the silk-layer of the circuit board using eagle cadsoft. All these actions consume time (fuel of life) but as I said eariler, I needed this as investment for the on-going projects. Now I have dedcided on using photo-resist method using uv box. Here are useful videos for all to consider if they choose to do so. The resolution I know will be excellent. Long long time ago I used to make use of photoresist methods to make tantalum thinfilm hybrid circuits. That's the type of circuit modules they used in the now the retired SST Concorde engine control system boxes.


Well here are the videos:


How to make PCB using Photoresist Dry Film

How to make PCB using Photoresist Dry Film - YouTube

I like methodology behind the use UV LED Strips because it will produce uniform uv illumination. This uv box absolutely essential if one needs reproducible results:

Making a led UV PCB exposure box - YouTube

Also some while back, JohnStone also, I think stated that one can use RS Components website to design circuit boards. I have not tried that one yet. If anyone does let me know. Thanks.
Warmest Regards All

lightworker

Hello Light, I'm not sure it's appropriate to talk so much about circuit boards so someone let me know if it's out of order. It looks like you're picking a direction that will give you a quality job. I might be able to add a few things that might work also. I have probably 40 some packages of Kepro pc board kits. I just looked at the date and they're 20 years old so they probably are no good, the dry film already is dark blue. These board kits come with the dry film on them already. There is a small packet of powder that you mix with water and use for the developer. You simply attach the negative expose the film, develope then etch. They even give you a little sponge. I think Kepro is out of business but someone like CamCom or others sell the product or something similar. I'll see if the boards are any good and if they are I'll send you a few to try if you like. I had a dark room at that time and used a contact print frame which is simply a board with a hard rubber surface and a hinged glass top. Just put the board with the negative on top, close it up and expose. I used a simple #2 250 watt photoflood bulb about 12 inches above the frame. I had a rheostat on the bulb to cut the voltage a little and make the bulb last longer. About 8 to 10 minutes of light and you where ready for the rest of it. It seems it would be pretty easy with a laser printed negative. I'm having trouble finding how to set for the darkest printing on my Samsung M2875FW though. I don't know if any of this is helpful but I thought I'd put it up just in case.
John