My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Ufopolitics]

Wiring Nessie...

G'day UFO
Today I have almost finished Nessie I am waiting for one rear Brake calliper and handbrake handles for the handle bars 1 single for the front brake and one double for the rear wheels brake and also a tensioner to keep the chain wrapped around further on the small sprocket on the motor so the chain will not jump off.

Hello my dear friend Kogs,

Sounds great, you are getting to the final stage...

Now as regards to the testing you have suggested
The motor connections to the 4 brushes is as from the factory 2x 2 parallel with this setup the amps draw is only 0.2 amps and under load is less than 6 amps.
I made a new 6 Mosfet controller the same as I used in my coil pulsing circuit to light the 5 CLF bulbs it was drawing 0.2A @ nominal 36v no load speed was around 1800RPM? (the meter I could not adjust exactly)under load using the 2 sticks of wood was 5A the motor was very hard to slow down.
I have wired up just temporary connection#1 as you suggested so I made sure I understood what you are saying the amps draw was 1 amp and the output was fluctuating between 50v 78v I did not measure the revs
When I put a load by jamming the shaft with 2 sticks of wood the amps jumped off the 10 amp scale the Mosfets were cool still and the motor was cool

That was great test, the point here is that you observe the Voltage out, even using the brushes in parallel at output, it is understood that if you would have them in series, voltages would add even more than that.

Input=36V
Output=50-78 Volts

When you put a mechanical load the amps jumped above 10 amps, that is normal, since you are slowing down by force keeping same feed, and also the amperage would increase for output as well.

You have suggested that I have the generator brushes wired so the 2 generator windings are in series.

Yes, I did suggested that...BUT, You could run single wires off the motor (just like we did with Imperial) and switch the connections at dashboard to get output in series...or separately excited (feed input) each one. Meaning, You DO NOT need to make the series connection INTERNALLY inside Motor.

In your 1000W you have the same arrangement as in Imperial, meaning four brush/four stators.

You could have different ways to run Nessie with this set up...

1- Using typical Two set of Brushes for Input and Two set for Generator (series connected) that could be sent to a Cap Bank recovery Tank...then back to batteries.
2-Accelerating or Turbo Boosting Nessie by feeding ALL Four Gates based on FOUR SWITCHES as GEARS, ADDING ONE BY ONE at a time...First Gear, Second, Third and Fourth...No Output/Generator
2a- This type of electronic switching/gears will give you different "Modes" to run Nessie, Independently from the Controller Acceleration Feeding from Batteries:

First Gear: On 1st gear you need high torque/high speed to brake inertia forces, and like in a standard vehicle, it is NOT intended to use it for too long...In your case First Gear would be ALL Four Gates at once.

Second Gear: 2nd gear would be Three Gates, while the not fed Gate would be retro-feeding back to source. I would call this Gear the "PASSING GEAR"

Third Gear: Two Gates (what is our typical connection of 2+2) meaning two on Input, Two on Output. And this Gear would be a "STANDARD CRUISING GEAR"

Fourth Gear: would run just ONE GATE...while you are getting Three Gates to feed Cap Bank/Batteries. This Mode would be like an "ECONO DRIVE" and more likely could be used down hills or flat land after reaching a fair speed with previous three gears...

It is just like driving a standard, manually shifting gear vehicle...

Only thing you will need to get...are Four nice and heavy duty High Amperage rated switches, like 50 Amps/48V...BUT Double Throw switches, having basically a Two Position from a middle input to Two connections, Up and Down...so when connecting one the other disconnects...So, when not feeding/Input from Controller, it would connect to Cap Bank.

Switches could also be with a Neutral Position at center (Three Stages) where NO CONTACT to ANY will just disconnect Gate completely from Input or Output

ONE MAIN THING KOGS, PLEASE!!

Do not forget to Install from the MAIN POSITIVE CABLE TO BATTERIES A KILL SWITCH...AND make sure you would have VERY EASY access from your driver seat...Remember, when FET's go bad...they normally do it by shorting out Source to Drain...meaning "RUNAWAY DRIVING"...You have N-Channels...so killing must be done by cutting off POSITIVE from Batteries...NOT Negative!

Do not want to hear that Nessie crashed, because of just one faulty FET!!

SECOND: Make sure that you test ON BENCH FIRST all this connections (if you want to do them, of course) BASICALLY the FIRST GEAR , in order to test your controller stress to "take it" since it will do, reverse very high spikes.

I will now clean up my workshop so I can have room for my video producer can get some more practice when she takes some videos of my testing.

Please UFO if you have any comments with regarding the testing please let me know ASAP outlining what testing you would like me to do as I intend to do the serial mod to the motor and then test it I would like to do all the testing in one video perhaps starting before the serial Generator mod if you desire for me to do so.

There is at Cavendish a local town probably 150k away on the 30th of March a "SHOW US YOUR WHEELS & TOYS DAY" its like a Trash and Treasure Swap meet If I have it finished by then I may take Nessie there and show her off.

I thank you for all your time spent to showing what you have discovered and have disclosed to us.
I am anxious to see what you have in store for us in the future I know my self that I would like to build one of the latest designs you have put up for all to see but unfortunately I am quickly running out of $$ I need some paying work to continue these projects.

Kindest Regards to you my friend


Kogs progressing Slowly

Great friend, looking forward to see those videos.


Kind regards


Ufopolitics

[iankoglin]

G'Day UFO

Yes, I will run single wires off the motor (just like you did with Imperial) and switch the connections at dashboard to get output in series...or separately excited (feed input) each one.
In your 1000W Yes I Do have the same arrangement as in Imperial, meaning four brush/four stators.

Do not forget to Install from the MAIN POSITIVE CABLE TO BATTERIES A KILL SWITCH
I was intending to have a horn button switch that needs to be pressed for the motor to run, if the button is released then the motor will switch off

Make sure that you test ON BENCH FIRST all this connections (if you want to do them, of course) BASICALLY the FIRST GEAR , in order to test your controller stress to "take it" since it will do, reverse very high spikes.

Should I have a large cap between the motor and the Fet controller

You could have different ways to run Nessie with this set up...

1- Using typical Two set of Brushes for Input and Two set for Generator (series connected) that could be sent to a Cap Bank recovery Tank...then back to batteries.
2-Accelerating or Turbo Boosting Nessie by feeding ALL Four Gates based on FOUR SWITCHES as GEARS, ADDING ONE BY ONE at a time...First Gear, Second, Third and Fourth...No Output/Generator
2a- This type of electronic switching/gears will give you different "Modes" to run Nessie, Independently from the Controller Acceleration Feeding from Batteries:

First Gear: On 1st gear you need high torque/high speed to brake inertia forces, and like in a standard vehicle, it is NOT intended to use it for too long...In your case First Gear would be ALL Four Gates at once.

Second Gear: 2nd gear would be Three Gates, while the not fed Gate would be retro-feeding back to source. I would call this Gear the "PASSING GEAR"

Third Gear: Two Gates (what is our typical connection of 2+2) meaning two on Input, Two on Output. And this Gear would be a "STANDARD CRUISING GEAR"

Fourth Gear: would run just ONE GATE...while you are getting Three Gates to feed Cap Bank/Batteries. This Mode would be like an "ECONO DRIVE" and more likely could be used down hills or flat land after reaching a fair speed with previous three gears...

It is just like driving a standard, manually shifting gear vehicle...

Only thing you will need to get...are Four nice and heavy duty High Amperage rated switches, like 50 Amps/48V...BUT Double Throw switches, having basically a Two Position from a middle input to Two connections, Up and Down...so when connecting one the other disconnects...So, when not feeding/Input from Controller, it would connect to Cap Bank.

Switches could also be with a Neutral Position at centre (Three Stages) where NO CONTACT to ANY will just disconnect Gate completely from Input or Output I will chase some up

I would like to do the above and will need help to draw a schematic first
what size cap bank would I need and how do you deliver the energy back into the batteries or perhaps they may be in parallel with the batteries

I could implement the same for my bicycle 250w motor as the original unmodified motor was not quite strong enough to start without pedalling.

AS I am still waiting for the parts for the brakes I did not clean my workshop instead yesterday I set about making the mudguards and to day I am finishing them off (another day of sanding I have no fingerprints now)
Great friend, My video director is looking forward making those videos.


Kindest regards to you my friend


Kogs chomping at the bit

[iankoglin]

G'day Midaz
Any news from Imperial about the testing

Kindest Regards

Kogs still interested

[Midaztouch]

Hi Kogs & Team

Our motor has been received by Imperial. It was the end of the financial quarter. Also, they are preparing for the release for their spring line up. The head engineer said that they are extremely busy at the moment but has assured me that our motor will be tested when time permits. Remember, our motor has many configurations that need to be tested and it's very time consuming. Please be patient. I will release all information as soon as I get it.

Nessie is coming along well. I think that Nessie should be a beautiful white Swan. Thank you and keep up the good work.


Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[Ufopolitics]

Imperial Testing...

G'day Midaz
Any news from Imperial about the testing

Kindest Regards

Kogs still interested

Hello Kogs, Hello to ALL,

Just because it is You Kogs asking this, (As I would have done it also, if ANY OWNER of Imperial Asymmetric Conversion, would have requested this INFO) I am releasing here this Data, and that way not getting Midaz or Dana involved in the middle of this situation.

Midaz wrote to me about this testing and its results.

@ Midaz : you asked me about this testing before and I say not to release the info till other properly attached/connected testings would take place, with a new, fresh Machine...but now, I must release the truth, no matter what, and let you ALL (Owners of Imperial Asymmetric Motors MAINLY*) judge according to your own Imperials that you have already conducted several testings...

Unfortunately, the testing at Imperial Electric was NOT successful at all guys...Imperial Electric made fatal mistakes at Prime Connection Time, please judge it according to the following Data/Mails

Let's review the Mails. (Midaz and Dana, with your permission to share this info in the open)

First mailed letter from Engineer Joe Engle (in charge to conduct Imperial Asymmetric testing) to Midaz:

Hello Richard (Midaz),

We set the motor you sent David up on out dynamometer today, but quickly realized there were 5 black leads and 3 black leads. Several different colors of tape were on these as well as some marking on the end shields, but to play it safe can you get me in touch with the correct person which can tell us where to apply power. I thought these would be grouped into +/-, but that isn’t the case.

We are ready to run this as soon as we can get this question answered.


Thanks,

Joe Engle
Engineering Manager
Imperial Electric Co. / Scott DC Products

Dear Mr. Engle

This is the response from Dr. Higley:


"There are four wires with a piece of tape on them. These are positive. Each pair goes straight thru from commutator to commutator. When looking at the motor from the front end, the set on the upper right is P1. The one on the lower left is the P15 and is run or powered in series or parallel with P1. The other two sets are also powered the similar way and are called P8 ( on the upper left) and P 28>
Hopes this helps , I can sent pictures if needed."

Thank you,

Dana Higley

Hello Dr. Higley,

We connected the wires per the comments below, but the motor will not operate. We gradually increased the voltage, but halted the test when there was no rotation and the amperage continued to increase. Perhaps we misunderstood your instruction. Attached is a photo showing how we wired this. The black lead with the red tape is our positive lead from the supply.

If you could provide photos it would be very helpful.

Now Kogs, and all IMPERIAL ASYMMETRIC owners , take a look at this results running a Motor at NO LOAD...then, please COMPARE according to your own previous testing:

[IMG][/IMG]

Now, the "LOAD TESTING" with a Professional Dynamometer, of course, is expected to be a complete "disaster zone", to the point I am certain they have really messed up this machine and it would need complete rebuilding, before a second test is conducted.

The main mistake We all made here, was to send a completely new technology to a Motor Factory that have, absolutely no idea on how to hook up this type of machines without a FULL DIAGRAM attached ...on how to wire it properly.

Dana and Midaz have done a heck of a job guys...no matter what, they tried without having the means, or the budget to do this properly.

Midaz asked me if I could join them on this Imperial Testing, and I accepted...it was just a bit too late when I received this emails...and the final testing was done. Imperial said there was a lot of sparking and commutator damages.

I believe they had connected wrong -at least- ONE GATE reversed its polarity feed, that is enough to stop this beast and to get very negative results.


*When I wrote

Owners of Imperial Asymmetric Motors MAINLY*

I meant, basically, that to all of the Members on this Thread, who have spent their Money and Time making this Machines, I, mainly, owe an explanation of what is going on here...besides the point that the decision and excellent idea came originally from Midaz (Richard) and Prochiro (Dana)

One of the main reasons I did not wanted this info to be released...is because the "Fatal Attraction" it will create on all the Skeptics and Enemies of Evolution...However, my duties are primarily to any criticism towards My Machines...and I can "handle/take" them all...like I have done in more than One and a half years.

The Second reason was to avoid confusion and disappointment to new members reading this testings...but, again, My duties are first.


Thanks You


Sincerely


Ufopolitics


EDIT 1: @Kogs: I will make a complete Circuit for Nessie, according to my post before to you, just give me some time.

Thanks friend

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Sorry Midaz...

Hi Kogs & Team

Our motor has been received by Imperial. It was the end of the financial quarter. Also, they are preparing for the release for their spring line up. The head engineer said that they are extremely busy at the moment but has assured me that our motor will be tested when time permits. Remember, our motor has many configurations that need to be tested and it's very time consuming. Please be patient. I will release all information as soon as I get it.

Nessie is coming along well. I think that Nessie should be a beautiful white Swan. Thank you and keep up the good work.


Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

Sorry Midaz,

I had to tell the truth...I know it was completely MY DECISION NOT TO RELEASE THIS INFO when You consulted/asked Me...so it is NOT your fault at all.

So, if there is anyone to blame it is ME, MYSELF AND I.

Regards


Ufopolitics

[sampojo]

Condolences Midaz

If something can go wrong it will. Sorry to hear the news. Second motor will go easier?

[Ufopolitics]

If something can go wrong it will. Sorry to hear the news. Second motor will go easier?

Hey Sam,

This human errors are normal, the positive side to look at it...is to make a Victory out of Failure results, by learning...We just need to know exactly where and what were the errors ...then go from there...

Lack of communication was the main issue here, for what I can see.

Another Motor could be made and sent over...Or maybe mine...or maybe I will go there myself and show them how to make it themselves, using their own parts and equipment...going over details with the Engineers there on a nice Digital Screen...many great things could happen Sam...

Like Zorg said...

Fifth Element - If you want something done, do it yourself - YouTube




Regards


Ufopolitics

[Midaztouch]

Hi Kogs & Team

Our motor has been received by Imperial. It was the end of the financial quarter. Also, they are preparing for the release for their spring line up. The head engineer said that they are extremely busy at the moment but has assured me that our motor will be tested when time permits. Remember, our motor has many configurations that need to be tested and it's very time consuming. Please be patient. I will release all information as soon as I get it.

@Team

The above statement basically still stands. But, yes, I consulted and then consented with Ufo. Originally I had mailed Ufo and told him that releasing the poor results could be a learning opportunity for the rest of us even though the tests were inconclusive.. Using a DC power supply has had some adverse effects on our motors. I had my motor tested a few weeks ago and we used a DC power supply. The sparking at the commutators was tremendous. My motor must be rebuilt also. UFO, Dana and I came up with a few conclusions.

This is part of the e-mail I sent Imperial after the poor test results:

Reasons:

You having similar sparking, that's makes 2 for 2 with sparking using a DC power supply.

In the past I asked my team, "Why did it have heavy sparking!?"....

We speculated a few things:

A.) UFO Team member Quote:
"Depends on the DC Power Supply Current Limiting (Amps) they have regulated at...if they have a huge 100 Amps C.L setting (Current Limit), our Machine will literally "swallow" all those amps and that is why such high sparking.
The Batteries I was showing Tests on video are not even full size Car or Golf Cart Batteries...but smaller and rated 35 Amps/Hour.

B.) Wires crossed

C.) Motor wants to regulate the amps itself. It does it perfectly with batteries.

D.)We can only use batteries.


My thoughts:
If you "feed" it more amps than it needs, it sparks excessively or not enough amps it will not perform well.

From that point, "a day late and a dollar short", I sent them all of the diagrams and vids as possible.(Thanks Kogs! You vids saved our *ss at the last moment!) Imperial was ready to send the motor back! After reviewing the videos and diagrams Imperial decided to give us one more chance.

The results were soo bad that the torque was less than a half a pound! We all know that something is terribly wrong with that. So, for the sake of peace, I agreed to keep things quiet to avoid the BS.

Hopefully, Dana's motor is not damaged and they can perform accurate tests. If it is damaged, we will send another motor, go there, rebuild, etc... Please sit tight. We're working things out.

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[Cornboy 555]

Hello everyone, i may be extremly out of line here, but please don't forget who Imperial electric Motor company's main customers would be.
They seem to have shown some real enthusiasm, with the UFO kit,
and it is a way of keeping a handle on us.

Just don't forget a handle on anything, can be used to tip it out.

Thinking out loud, and don't give a ---- who's watching,
Best Regards to you all, Cornboy.

[ajaya999]

I am not out sir and will never

Hi Sir,

Namaste.

it has been a long time I made my posting here in (y)our lovely ( love towards the angel ) thread.

I have not yet completed the complete fibreglass Hybrid Motor-Generator.

But meanwhile I completed my first 15-pole 1 hp machine.

Photos and videos I'll post in a day or two.
But I'd like to share my experience with it.

This motors was originally having an rpm of 1440 and the rotor current required as per manufacturer's specs is 230v@4 amps and stator current required is 230v@0.4 amps

while rewinding the armature for (y)our machine, I fully followed the design given by you.

I used 28SWG and took care to see that the ohms are at 2. The number of turns on each side of the coil was coming to between 23 and 25.

I didn't touch the stator. Just used the one given by the manufacturer.
The power given to it was 230v @0.4 amps

I didn't use any pwm circuits in this run.

I connected the brushes with first 12V 7.5 Ah battery. Armature didn't move. Then I tried with 2 batteries of the same config. (2X12v 7.5 Ah). It started rotating at 600 rpm. But I was able to stop it with my hand. Barely no torque.

Then I added one more battery and gave it 36 volts. The rpm went up to 1200. I was not able to stop the armature with my hands. When I tried, it got slowed down but didn't stop. I connected a dc bulb 12v 90watts
on generator side. the bulb lit with a minimum brightness. The rpm came down to about 700.

Then I added one more battery and gave it 47 volts. The rpm went beyond its design and jumped to more than 1700.

This time I didn't dare to try stopping it with my hands.

I used a pulley belt to check the torque.

I applied my full power, pulling the belt connected to the shaft. rpm came down to about 300-400, but it didn't stop.

This time I recorded the readings. Without any load the stator was reading 230v and .03 amps. The armature reading 47 volts and 1.3 amps .

When I tried to stop with the pulley belt, the armature current dropped to 1.1 amps and even I was able to see it at 0.9 amps many times.

Then I connected the bulb and it lit with full brightness. Here the rpm came down to 1200. I tried stopping the armature with the pulley belt again. Though the armature slowed down, I couldn't stop it. The bulb connected lost its brightness, but I was able to see the light in broad day light.

I ran it continuously for about 30 minutes. The batteries started reading 24 volts. In the beginning the voltage was 47v. I stopped the machine. Put the batteries to rest. In about 30 minutes I found the voltage again going up to 42 volts. This was about 3 pm and again when I checked the voltage in the night at around 10 pm I found it back to 47v. Then I didn't try for a week. Checked the voltage after a week and found it at 46v and after one more week yesterday I checked the voltage and it was 44V.

Meanwhile I built the design of by Netica - in complete wood. I tried winding the stator as directed by you. I used 19 SWG and 23 SWG bifilar coil. I went layer by layer winding and got about 25 layers with a resistance of 1.7


I started reading the MMTRE thread. I tried making a circuit. I couldn't get 12v MOV here. So I tried the one discussed in Patrick's book. NTE mosfets are not available for us here. I tried with IRF840. Somewhere something went wrong sir. I fried the mosfet At LM317 output I got 12V. But when I tried powering the circuit, the voltage was coming down to 4 at LM317 output and batteries voltage of 33v also was showing 23v or even less. DOn't know where I went wrong. when i disconnected the circuit, the batteries were showing 33v.When I connected it, the batteries volatge was showing at 23 or less.But I continued powering it, of course, without connecting the coil and found small fire of fist size near a mosfet and found it burnt completely. I will try again and report you.

Later I tried feeding the wound stator with direct batteries. But the armature didn't rotate even a cm. I think I wound the stator in a wrong way. I looked into your video ASYMMETRIC SINGLE COIL FIBERGLASS STATOR CORE and also netica's video. In Netica's I found the overlap on coil was only on top on one side and the other side and on bottom two sides the coils divided equally - no overlap. In yours, the overlap is coming on both sides on top.

My coil is having a overlap on top on one side and another overlap on bottom on the other side( diagonally). The second side on top and diagonally other side on bottom, the coils were divided into two. I kept a compass in between the stator and found that the poles were in correct mode - one north and one south. I reversed the battery polarities and the coil polarity also changed. Don't know where it went wrong.

Now I am trying to rewind the same and also rebuild the circuit. Will report to you with pictures and videos asap.

Sorry for such a lenghty post sir.

@
Hi Kogs,

Thanks a lot for your support and congrats on your two wheeler. I too will make it Kogs very soon. Otherwise my son will not leave me. He'll keep saying "Kogs uncle did it and you couldn't." You are troubling me a lot

Kogs I started learning electronics. Already burnt a mosfet but will make it Kogs. It's a very tiresome journey. But no way. We need to travel only to reach the goal. I know you will make it. And me too Kogs .

But can't resist to say "Great Kogs".

Regards and Namaste.

Kumar

[iankoglin]

G'day ajaya999;252163

You can buy fast RDS Cool Mosfets here
I am using these and they are fine

IPW60R041C6 INFINEON 10PCS TO-247 $2.00
------------------------------------------------------------
betty.tst@hotmail.com

Address to
Betty

My Your name here

Ian Koglin told me I could buy from you

IPW60R041C6 INFINEON 10PCS TO-247 $2.00

I would like to purchase 20 pieces delivered to my address

Your address here
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Kindest Regards
Kogs

[ajaya999]

Hi Kogs,

G'day ajaya999;252163

You can buy fast RDS Cool Mosfets here
I am using these and they are fine

IPW60R041C6 INFINEON 10PCS TO-247 $2.00
------------------------------------------------------------
betty.tst@hotmail.com

Address to
Betty

My Your name here

Ian Koglin told me I could buy from you

IPW60R041C6 INFINEON 10PCS TO-247 $2.00

I would like to purchase 20 pieces delivered to my address

Your address here
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Kindest Regards
Kogs

Thanks a lot for the support. I stay in India Kogs. Keeping in view the further future requirements that will arise for the components once we start having a mass following - seriously Kogs - I am trying to use the mosfets available here in India. In fact IRF 840a is having an RDS(o) at .85 ohms against .55 ohms of NTE 2397. But I read UFO saying NTE 2397's RDS (o)at .022 ohms several times. This .55 ohms is as per the data sheets. Rest all are ok.

I must have shorted Gate and Drain I don't know as I read UFO saying that happens. Let me check again. If I meet with success with IRF840a, there is nothing like that. I will try for a couple of times more. Then definitely I will go for what you suggested. Now I'm working on Bob's/ Mad Scientist's circuit using LM339. I'll complete it soon and post the progress.

Kogs, your effort of making a document for my 15-p machine is not wasted. Thanks a lot for it. The machine is running wonderful. I need to try to run it on AC as well as UFO was telling it must become a universal type motor once winding is done.

I am also going to connect it with a flywheel and a car alternator (14v 120Amps) very soon (earlier I built that complete set up to try Chas Campbell system). Let's see what all we can make out of it Kogs.

I completely put a deaf year towards the test results at Imperial.

Thanks and Regards

Kumar

[Ufopolitics]

Nessie's Wiring...

G'Day UFO

Yes, I will run single wires off the motor (just like you did with Imperial) and switch the connections at dashboard to get output in series...or separately excited (feed input) each one.
In your 1000W Yes I Do have the same arrangement as in Imperial, meaning four brush/four stators.

Hello Kogs!

Great...let's proceed...

Do not forget to Install from the MAIN POSITIVE CABLE TO BATTERIES A KILL SWITCH
I was intending to have a horn button switch that needs to be pressed for the motor to run, if the button is released then the motor will switch off

I would rather use a COMPLETE Mechanical Switch for Kill SW, meaning, either a Blade Switch or one of those Key Switches that when twisting Key it mechanically separates or join HEAVY DUTY contacts, they use this type to prevent stealing of Small Vehicles like Jet Ski or Scooters, etc,etc...I installed one on my X-Treme Bike. It is rated 100 Amps, in order to guarantee contacts will NOT stick/burn.

Make sure you have EASY REACH ACCESS to this Switch while driving, like I have it on Xtreme below on my left hand...I never had to use mine except to turn it off/store...but you never know.

[IMG][/IMG]

Make sure that you test ON BENCH FIRST all this connections (if you want to do them, of course) BASICALLY the FIRST GEAR , in order to test your controller stress to "take it" since it will do, reverse very high spikes.

Should I have a large cap between the motor and the Fet controller

Typically ALL EV's Controllers have a Cap Bank built within assembly, a small bank of like 8 or 10, 1000 uF Caps rated normally at 100V...This Cap Bank is mainly dedicated to avoid "starvation" of power at radical accelerations, while absorbing higher reverse charges at sudden deceleration times...like a "Buffer" between Source Batteries to demand from Motor.

You could have different ways to run Nessie with this set up...

1- Using typical Two set of Brushes for Input and Two set for Generator (series connected) that could be sent to a Cap Bank recovery Tank...then back to batteries.
2-Accelerating or Turbo Boosting Nessie by feeding ALL Four Gates based on FOUR SWITCHES as GEARS, ADDING ONE BY ONE at a time...First Gear, Second, Third and Fourth...No Output/Generator
2a- This type of electronic switching/gears will give you different "Modes" to run Nessie, Independently from the Controller Acceleration Feeding from Batteries:

First Gear: On 1st gear you need high torque/high speed to brake inertia forces, and like in a standard vehicle, it is NOT intended to use it for too long...In your case First Gear would be ALL Four Gates at once.

Second Gear: 2nd gear would be Three Gates, while the not fed Gate would be retro-feeding back to source. I would call this Gear the "PASSING GEAR"

Third Gear: Two Gates (what is our typical connection of 2+2) meaning two on Input, Two on Output. And this Gear would be a "STANDARD CRUISING GEAR"

Fourth Gear: would run just ONE GATE...while you are getting Three Gates to feed Cap Bank/Batteries. This Mode would be like an "ECONO DRIVE" and more likely could be used down hills or flat land after reaching a fair speed with previous three gears...

It is just like driving a standard, manually shifting gear vehicle...

Only thing you will need to get...are Four nice and heavy duty High Amperage rated switches, like 50 Amps/48V...BUT Double Throw switches, having basically a Two Position from a middle input to Two connections, Up and Down...so when connecting one the other disconnects...So, when not feeding/Input from Controller, it would connect to Cap Bank.

Switches could also be with a Neutral Position at centre (Three Stages) where NO CONTACT to ANY will just disconnect Gate completely from Input or Output I will chase some up

I would like to do the above and will need help to draw a schematic first
what size cap bank would I need and how do you deliver the energy back into the batteries or perhaps they may be in parallel with the batteries

Here is the Diagram Friend...

[IMG][/IMG]

First, understand that "Shifting" through Switches 1,2,3 and 4 is COMPLETELY INDEPENDENT from Acceleration Circuit through Throttle/POT..It is like a typical farting gas vehicle......you could set your shifting from 1st gear to fourth...while accelerating SHOULD BE DONE AFTER Switches/Gears are FULLY ENGAGED/CLOSED to prevent "JUMPING"!!

ALSO remember it is NOT recommended to switch ALL Four Switches at same time...but following a "STEP SEQUENCE" (1-2-3-4) while depressing throttle...could be short in timing between switching, but must be stepped ALWAYS...this is to avoid a huge dump from all four corners to Rotor.

Diodes D1, D2, D3 and D4 are preventing reverse spikes to dump on Caps from Motor, and I would use UF505/NTE576 or higher rated.

D5 between Batt and Negative Cap Bank is there to prevent Battery to dump charges back to Caps...only "one way" from Cap to Batt.

A Mechanical Kill Switch will prevent from Battery drain when Nessie is completely turned off...besides the safety issues...plus also turning off S7 to disconnect caps from batteries. On Diagram switch (S7) disconnect Caps from batteries at time to store Nessie...or later on we could replace switch by a "smart" circuit that would turn off when batteries are fully charged...

The Cap Bank is like you have said, parallel to Batteries (understand this is NOT the Controller Cap Bank, but the Battery supply using Regen from our Asymmetric Machines Gates)...it should be rated according to your Battery Source size, always greater than, I would use -at least- a 100V Cap size bank, and I would go above the 1000 uF...say to 2200 uF or greater...could consult Sir John Stone on this to correct me if am wrong.

The Contactor or Solenoid COIL MUST BE RATED, exactly, to the Battery Bank size, the Diode D6 must be 200V/3A and the PRE-CHARGE Resistor must be 1K Ohm and 10 Watts Minimum. This is done to avoid huge dump on Controller Cap Bank/sensitive tronics...

So...the Gears would be:

First Gear ALL Switches 1,2,3 and 4 ON...turning them on in a fast sequence while depressing accelerator slowly to make a smooth take off...and not Ramping it up too abrupt. This Gear is JUST intended to brake Inertia...and SHOULD NOT BE ON FOR A LONG TIME!

Second Gear, turn off SW4 leaving ON SW 1,2,3 (I have the same Pair sequence as Imperial here, but in your case the 16 Poles 1000W would be different, but results are the same...Four Gates)...So this would be your "passing gear".

Third Gear would be SW 1 and SW 2 ON...While SW3 and SW4 would be dumping to Cap Bank...Your Normal Cruising Gear after you have used Second to gain enough Speed Impulse.

Fourth Gear ( ONLY SW1 ON) could be used on down hills or flat straight line roads, after desired driving speed has been reached.

REMEMBER to ALWAYS DEPRESS Throttle when shifting Gears, then accelerate ONCE ENGAGED/ON...just like the "Play" between Clutch and Accelerator on a Manual/Stick Shift Vehicle...otherwise you could add damage to your commutator elements.

I could implement the same for my bicycle 250w motor as the original unmodified motor was not quite strong enough to start without pedalling.

AS I am still waiting for the parts for the brakes I did not clean my workshop instead yesterday I set about making the mudguards and to day I am finishing them off (another day of sanding I have no fingerprints now)
Great friend, My video director is looking forward making those videos.


Kindest regards to you my friend


Kogs chomping at the bit

Kogs, remember to conduct a BENCH TEST first on this connections...or -at least- lifting Nessie's Driving Wheels OFF the GROUND (properly jacked up in stands) ...then take Nessie on a "stressful Run"...and check all temperature everywhere possible, mainly FET, and Motor Coils/Brushes.


Regards Friend, and any questions/doubts let me know.


Ufopolitics

[ajaya999]

mosfets

Dear Sir / Team UFO,

Namaste.

I checked my fried out mosfets - irf840a. in all of them gate and drain shorted

can you pl look into the datasheet of irf540n at

http://www.google.co.in/url?sa=t&rct...5oc_76e_5cpvhA

and let me know whether this can be used in the circuit in the place of nte2397?

And I'm not able to get 12v mov to complete the 555 circuit. In case I go forward, what adjustments are to be done in the circuit diagram?

regards and namaste

kumar