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Hi, the resistor will retain its wattage, just the resistance value will change as per your slider setting. Half way = 50 ohms 100w etc..
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Thanks for the comments guys,
We are that much closer to attaining the desired end result, I feel.
@Jetijs
I have not tried it WITHOUT the isolation transformer, YET. That test IS upcoming though. I agree with you 100%, it would be great not to even need the isolation transformer. I don't know for sure, but we may still need it to keep from getting any ground conflicts between the AC and DC. I will test it in a few minutes. Hopefully the red light will come on if there is a problem, instead of letting the smoke leak out.
I have a question. I purchased a 100 watt, 100ohm slide resistor. I get a much cleaner and more robust plasma burst using it instead of the 100 watt light bulb. I moved the slider from one end to the other, the ohms measured the same, and hardly any noticeable plasma difference. If the adjuster is in the middle of it's travel, does that mean I am at 50 watts power and 100ohms resistence? Also, would more, or less watts be easier on the inverter? I still don't completely understand the whole resistence thing yet.
Thanks guys.......................................Mike
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Hi Arron, thanks for responding. So this isn't a hho generator but a means of having better combustion from an engine fueled from hho or just to get better combustion from traditional fossil fuel sources?
Sorry if I am asking you to repeat for the zillionth time to yet another neophite what you have been doing, but as 5 said "need more input"
Just an observation regarding the "spark", its properties will vary significantly based on the preasure and saturation level of the ambient environment it is in. So expect the performance to be different in an engine compared to the bench test. Obvious I know but just verbalizing concerns. Is the goal a hotter spark or is there a specific property that you are trying to achieve?
I have some experience with low and high voltage powersupplies both DC and AC with active current feedback control. Designed several fusion splicers and numerous test systems in my day and if I can be of any assistance I am eager and willing.
If you are having isues with burning electrodes you may want to look at using tungsten rods, easy to shape and high heat resistant, I have used them with good success and they are easy to get from welder supply. Standard spark plugs are designed for DC operation so if you use AC your ground side electrode will dissapear at a higher rate than the core one.
Best of luck with this guys and gals. Looking forward to your successes
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jstadwater,
great to hear about you success
Are you using just an inverter and no isolation transformer at all? Does it mean that you don't even need an isolation transformer, because that would be great, makes the whole circuit smaller and much lighter, those transformers are not light, you know
Also they cost about 40$ and if we do not need them, then those are some good news
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purpose of this plasma ignition
Hi NXUS,
Gotoluc originally posted his finding on this interesting effect that is simple to reproduce. The ultimate goal and hope for this technology is to run an engine on 100% water.
Through collaborative effort, there have been quite a few developments to increase the strength of effect as well as efficiency. Several very talented experimenters here have already put this ignition system into some vehicles and some gas generators.
The ignition system has proven to increase engine speed for the same amount of fuel giving evidence that this plasma absolutely is releasing more potential.
This experimentation is an ongoing process and little by little the effect will become stronger and easier to replicate as well as being understood better. There will be gradual steps in the direction of 100% water fuel power and we're fortunate to have so much open sharing of the progress that everyone is making.
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Glad its workingOriginally posted by jstadwater View PostThank you Jetijs and Chris31,
Those diodes seem to have fixed the inverter issue. I will do a longer test soon, but 20 minutes is a pretty good test, since I couldn't even run it for 1 minute before. Thanks again for the suggestions....................................... .........Mike
Yeah the TVS saved the expensive MOSFETs on my CDI circuit. I was too afraid to blow another set as they are quite expensive...TVS are cheap in comparison.
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Thank you Jetijs and Chris31,
Those diodes seem to have fixed the inverter issue. I will do a longer test soon, but 20 minutes is a pretty good test, since I couldn't even run it for 1 minute before. Thanks again for the suggestions....................................... .........Mike
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Whoooo Hoooooo!!!!!!!!!!
YES, YES, YES..........I got in the 1.5KE150CA diodes in a little bit ago. Hooked up one between the inverter and isolation transformer, and then one between the transformer and tripler circuit. Have not added the one for the battery to inverter yet, but will shortly, just as a safegaurd. I could never run the circuit on just the inverter for more than about a minute at around 2,200 rpm, less than 30 seconds at 4,300 rpm, and the inverter started squeeling loudly in protest.
I just finished running continuous for 20 minutes at 4,300 rpm, powered by inverter ONLY. The 1.5KE150CA diodes did not even get WARM at all........much less hot. But, most importantly, THE INVERTER WAS HAPPY THE ENTIRE TIME!!!!!!!!
NOW.......if I can run a v-8 distributor at that rpm on inverter power, there should be NO problem whatsoever with a 4 cylinder install.
I will now move forward with installing the circuit into this 350 Suburban, HOLD ON TIGHT BOYS, IT'S GETTING CRAZY AROUND HERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Later.......................................Mike
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Please enlighten me!
Hi, just some basic questions regarding the spark plug generator. I am new to this thread and frankly I am not clear on what it is you are trying to accomplish with this device. Are you trying to create a plama that will crack water? Is this eventually intended to be immersed or exposed to a water mist? Excuse my ignorance but I have seen a number of video's and articles, but maybe since I am a late entry into this, I have missed the original design goal. Please bring me up to speed.
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Hey guys,
Don't know for sure if this is exactly what we need, but here is a post by Aaron from another thread, would this help us with the alternator thing?
It's the picture in the second post from the top.
Last edited by jstadwater; 10-22-2008, 04:27 PM.
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Luc,Originally posted by gotoluc View PostThat is my exact though but I don't know too much about the bunch of amps. High voltage is more appealing to me as I have found and also user Unclefester that the effect is better with HV.
What we need is the VexUs-HV powered only by a MOT fed by the AC of the alternator.
Luc
The AC of the alternator is 3 phase. Is there a way to convert it to single phase to power the MOT?
On my set up. I run the AC through a 3 phase bridge rectifier to get my HV DC.
LapperL
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That is my exact though but I don't know too much about the bunch of amps. High voltage is more appealing to me as I have found and also user Unclefester that the effect is better with HV.Originally posted by Gibs View PostAnd what if we connect a MOT directly at the output windings of the alternator? As we all know, AC is coming out of it.
We might be able to obtain several hundred volts with a bunch of amps.
Gibs
What we need is the VexUs-HV powered only by a MOT fed by the AC of the alternator.
Luc
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AC out from alternator
And what if we connect a MOT directly at the output windings of the alternator? As we all know, AC is coming out of it.
We might be able to obtain several hundred volts with a bunch of amps.
Gibs
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High voltage alternator
Hi All
Denso makes a bifiler stator coil alternator. By rewiring the coils in series you can double the voltage. No need to rewind the alternator. See here:
Alternate Power
tishatang
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@Vzon17,Originally posted by vzon17 View PostWell you don't have to rewire the alternator, if you have a second alternator just remove the diodes in there and you get 3 phase AC coming out of it. Bypass the regulator to max and you should be able to get about 3000 watts out of it at 120 or more volts.
Run it straight to a FWBR and your all set. tons of power. and any back spikes can't hurn it because it has really thick wire in it. Maybe get a small alternator out of some foreign jobby and put a small pully on it so it spins faster and you have a constant source of high voltage that goes up with engine speed.
I was thinking as some point to rebulid an alternaor and replace the rotor winding with two large neo ring magnets. then it does need current to make power. it will generate without any input then.
I can't say for sure because I never tested it before the diode bridge, but I do not believe that a standard stator will be able to supply the voltage that we are looking for. From what I can see from all of the voltage doublers, triplers and quadruplers people are using they are looking for around 400 VDC and up. I've experimented with Ford alternators (which use external voltage regulators) and have only been able to achieve 22 to 24 VDC attached to my WFC. Lots of amps, but not very much voltage. With the rewired stator I am able to achieve 120 VDC at 2,000 RPM's and 500 VDC at aproximetly 6,000 RPM's. As you know the crank shaft pulley of the engine is several times larger than the alternator pulley (around 4 times) and 6,000 RPM's at the alternator is not that hard to achieve.
Just so everyone knows, rewinding an alternator stator is not very difficult at all and not very expensive, around $50.00 US.
I will perform some tests on a factory stator to see what types of voltage I can get out of it at different speeds. Who knows, it maybe enough. I am just going by my past experiences with WFC experiments.
LapperL
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