Water Sparkplug

[Redmeanie]

Has Anyone came up with a list of "Non Resistor" Plugs that they could share with everyone here, to save a bunch of PM's and the such?

[Aaron]

plugs without R in the part #

Hi Redmeanie,

If this is helpful, any plug that doesn't have an R in the part # is without a resistor...supposedly according to the person at Schucks.

He also said all plugs will eventually have "suppression" in them. I think this is because cars are going to move to 24v and 36v systems with all the computer stuff, etc...

I would imagine there will still be resistorless plugs for bikes, mowers, etc...and resistors can always be removed.

I think a non-fouler is a potential body for a plug in order to put your own water spray rod down the middle and as a + electrode. Not sure about insulation but this concept might be possible.

[Redmeanie]

Hi Redmeanie,

If this is helpful, any plug that doesn't have an R in the part # is without a resistor...supposedly according to the person at Schucks.

He also said all plugs will eventually have "suppression" in them. I think this is because cars are going to move to 24v and 36v systems with all the computer stuff, etc...

I would imagine there will still be resistorless plugs for bikes, mowers, etc...and resistors can always be removed.

I think a non-fouler is a potential body for a plug in order to put your own water spray rod down the middle and as a + electrode. Not sure about insulation but this concept might be possible.

Ha! The Non Fouler is exactly what Im using! Its scary that some of us are on that Close of a WavePath! Length or whatever....

[peper10]

Peper10,

Sorry for the confusion. The AMI2066 is a "replacement part" for the power supply inside a Microwave Oven. It is NOT a diode that switches at "microwave" frequencies. A simple Google Search on the term "microwave oven replacement parts diodes" leads to this: Microwave Diode Replacement Kit - M3D71

This is roughly equivalent to the diode I used.

I hope this helps.

Peter

Hi Peter!!
I know that you used this diode for (replacement part),i just got myself
with the wrong explanation..
I was just wandering if we can get the wicrowave circuitery apply to obtain
hi voltage..thats all..
I'm not so good with electronics,and was just wandering..

Thanks for your imput !!

peper10

[Jetijs]

Hello all
I just built the circuit just like in Peters video, the two pole relay is disconnecting the cap from the variac completely on both positive and negative wires, the only difference is that I am firing the relay by myself, no 555 timer. The problem is sticky contacts. I can fire the cap with no problems using up to 70V, but if I go higher, then the contacts will stick together. How to solve this? Use a more powerful relay? I also tried different capacitor capacities. I went as low as 2.2uF and nothing happened, just like Peter said. I used 100 uF and 50uF, the same problem, but it appears that when using smaller capacity, I can go a little higher in voltages. Any suggestions?

[rick123]

I have it with single pole, double throw relay, no 555 timer. The problem I have is the current arcs just before the pionts close on the realy. It still has a loud snap! I have to stop looking at it and start wearing sun glasses. I have been trying to get my weed wacker going, but cannot produce the spark using the magneto for switch? I don't understand why I just get a normal spark, but I will figure it out.

[Jetijs]

Rick, check if the HV pulse from your magneto is positive or negative, you probably might switch the polarities on LV side

[Redmeanie]

Hello all
I just built the circuit just like in Peters video, the two pole relay is disconnecting the cap from the variac completely on both positive and negative wires, the only difference is that I am firing the relay by myself, no 555 timer. The problem is sticky contacts. I can fire the cap with no problems using up to 70V, but if I go higher, then the contacts will stick together. How to solve this? Use a more powerful relay? I also tried different capacitor capacities. I went as low as 2.2uF and nothing happened, just like Peter said. I used 100 uF and 50uF, the same problem, but it appears that when using smaller capacity, I can go a little higher in voltages. Any suggestions?

Disregard..... Mis read at first...

[Redmeanie]

Jet,
Try the Single Pole Config, by closing the Positive side only Maybe that will minimize the Sticking.

[Jetijs]

Will try that, but don't understand why that should work

[Redmeanie]

Another last option would be try a Solid State Relay. Hopefully it will hold up to the initial surge, or whatever is going on here.

Jet,
Im thinking that maybe the Cap will absorb some of the surge on through to Negative instead of dumping the whole thing on positive and negative at the same time.....I have no clue if it will but, Maybe...... Never tried anything Remotely like this Before.

[Jetijs]

Ok, a try doesn't hurt
As for solid state relays, I have never seen one that has double throw poles so that it can switch the current and in the same time disconnect the cap from the power supply. Also they are expensive and have a disadvantage of false switching due to voltage transients. I have witnessed how my function generator makes an ordinary relay to misfire because of the high voltage discharges. The same could happen in the solid state relay.

[Redmeanie]

Ok, a try doesn't hurt
As for solid state relays, I have never seen one that has double throw poles so that it can switch the current and in the same time disconnect the cap from the power supply. Also they are expensive and have a disadvantage of false switching due to voltage transients. I have witnessed how my function generator makes an ordinary relay to misfire because of the high voltage discharges. The same could happen in the solid state relay.

Yeah they are pricey just to try.....I have seen a few DPDT's but they are slower that a Normal Relay Also....

Well, Back to brainstorming....Im looking at a bunch of different relay spec sheets to see if any or made for Hostile environments with Arcing....There has to be some out there We just need to find the industry they are used in...

[Jetijs]

A crazy idea
I have read that some heavy duty relays (contactors) that are used in high voltage applications have the contacts enclosed in vacuum or inert gas to prevent arcing. Maybe I could make an acrylic enclosure for the relay contact area and fill that with argon as I have access to this gas

[lighty]

@Jetijs

I'm sorry I wasn't more active in this thread. You will most probably kill solidstate relays since they're almost exclusively MOSFET based and sudden spikes and transients will almost surely kill them. Snubber circuits that they employ are simply inadequate for the task you're forcing them to do. Solid state relays can tolerate some "mild" inductive loads like incendescent lamps but that's about it, they're simply not made to handle highly inductive loads and resulting HV transients. You could employ additional snubber circuits but that would still be inadequate solution at best.

What you're trying to do is achiveable by other means using off the shelf cheap semiconductors. I use one of those simple circuits for quite some time now to handle sudden capacitive discharges while at the same time keeping the control tight and isolation to control logic intact. It's all quite simple really but it will need some adaptation to this particular circuit and that's what I'm working on at the moment. It's not anything spectacular but you can use same circuit in Bedini chargers since it's much easier to construct and you can go to much higher voltages if needed. I don't have much spare time to extensivly test it but I will give schematics to Aaron to try it out and distribute it further as he sees fit. In that regard he has my outmost trust.